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#1 (permalink) |
![]() Car: 2009 CTR GT, Albaster Silver
Join Date: 6th November 2011
Location: England, Padiham/Burnley
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Perfect setup for the Bilstein B14 Coilovers
I recently purchased the Bilstein B14 kit for my fn2 type r but unfortunately I lowered it 30mm and its scraping the arches and front spoiler fairly badly. I am also running 15mm eibach spacers which I purchased from you too for the stoptech bbk kit.
I would like to know which setup you would go for as my area is full of speed bumps? If I lower it 10mm on the front and rear will this be a good setup? Some people say if you lower the front and rear equal you lose the feel of the rear is this true? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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THE NINJA
![]() Car: 2007 CTR, NHB
Join Date: 25th January 2011
Location: Cambridgeshire
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I've got Bilstien coilover kit lowered about 20mm all round with 15mm spacers all round and it's never caught the arches or the splitter on speed bumps mate.
And it handles like it's on rails |
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#3 (permalink) |
** Thread starter **
![]() Car: 2009 CTR GT, Albaster Silver
Join Date: 6th November 2011
Location: England, Padiham/Burnley
Posts: 533
Thanks given: 25
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Thanks for the info dude, are you running them on the O.E.M wheels and do you have any large speed bumps in your area?
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#4 (permalink) | |
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THE NINJA
![]() Car: 2007 CTR, NHB
Join Date: 25th January 2011
Location: Cambridgeshire
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Quote:
Yep OEM 18 inch Type R alloys. There are some large table type humps, some large standard humps and some of those cushion type. It clears them all fine |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Supporter
![]() Car: 2007 FN2 GT
Join Date: 24th March 2010
Location: lisburn
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IMO you arent gonna notice a whole lot of difference in changing heights, only the amount of scrub you get.
What will make a difference is the bound/rebound settings you dial in front to back. What I would do is set a height that you are comfortable with and then spend a bit of time fine tuning the settings. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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THE NINJA
![]() Car: 2007 CTR, NHB
Join Date: 25th January 2011
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2,201
Thanks given: 748
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Quote:
Makes me think you might have a duff kit mate
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#7 (permalink) |
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Supporter
![]() Car: 2007 FN2 GT
Join Date: 24th March 2010
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OOH
I wouldn't say they are duff tbh, Bilstein are up there with the best brand wise, maybe swing by ABP and ask for an adjustment |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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THE NINJA
![]() Car: 2007 CTR, NHB
Join Date: 25th January 2011
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2,201
Thanks given: 748
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Quote:
All ABP will be able to do is amend the ride height I would have thought. Anybody know if it's possible to change the rebound settings on these kits (not so sure now ![]() )
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#9 (permalink) |
![]() Car: 2008 CTR Silver
Join Date: 21st December 2011
Location: Wales
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The coilovers are set the only thing you can do is alter the height. Mine has been lowered 20mm allround and I'm running a 17" 38offset wheels and don't get any scraps of the arches or catching on speed bumps. Look at getting the ride height altered and you will be fine, I take it you wanted it lowered 30mm allround for the look?
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#10 (permalink) | |
** Thread starter **
![]() Car: 2009 CTR GT, Albaster Silver
Join Date: 6th November 2011
Location: England, Padiham/Burnley
Posts: 533
Thanks given: 25
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Quote:
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#11 (permalink) |
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Commercial user
![]() Join Date: 14th March 2008
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The main issue with running low AND using +15mm spacers is the position within the wheel arch that the tyre runs. We've set cars at -40mm with no problems but they did not have spacers fitted so didn't have any catching issues. We've also played with our car and found that when using the OE 18" alloys lowering any distance causes no catching issues at all.
However when using the OE wheels with +15mm spacers the front tyres can catch the inner arch liner (mainly the pertruding clip housings) when you lower more than -25mm. So it may be advisable to lift the ride height slightly. Saying that on my car (set to -30mm front and -35mm rear) the tyres (Yokohama AD08) have now worn the clips down and no longer catch. So you can either let the plastic clips wear away until the tyre clears or lift the height slightly. Hope this helps, Chris |
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#12 (permalink) |
** Thread starter **
![]() Car: 2009 CTR GT, Albaster Silver
Join Date: 6th November 2011
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Thanks given: 25
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Well I got it changed to 15mm on the front and 20 on the rear and the ride is truly amazing I'm very happy with it. Suspension feels so much nicer and no crashy ride I would really recommend these. When I had the 30mm setup I found the car a lot harder but it did handle slightly better due to the lower centre of gravity. Maybe I could have gone 20 on the front but didn't want to risk catching as it's already caught a chunk of paint out the arches due to the spacers and silly speed bumps.
Overall very impressed, ride quality 100% improved and handling too this kit is awesome!! |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Commercial user
![]() Join Date: 14th March 2008
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Quote:
Cheers, Chris |
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#14 (permalink) |
** Thread starter **
![]() Car: 2009 CTR GT, Albaster Silver
Join Date: 6th November 2011
Location: England, Padiham/Burnley
Posts: 533
Thanks given: 25
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Yes thanks for your advice and excellent customer service, I will be buying from you again and recommending this kit to other people
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#15 (permalink) |
** Thread starter **
![]() Car: 2009 CTR GT, Albaster Silver
Join Date: 6th November 2011
Location: England, Padiham/Burnley
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Thanks given: 25
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Another unpade to this: the rear suspension has become noisy and sounds like it's knocking. I know the torsion bar make these cars really stiff and hard but is this a common issue? It is quite irritating. No knocking sounds from the front at all however.
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Commercial user
![]() Join Date: 14th March 2008
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Quote:
The only time my rear suspension makes noises is when the car drives off speed bumps (if i'm not going as slowly as I perhaps should) and when the weight of the car comes off the speed bump the spring coils touch giving a noise which is expected and short lived. The FN2 doesn't actually have a torsion bar rear suspension set-up - its actually a torsion beam suspension which is quite different. Torsion bars are used instead of springs on mainly french cars. Chris |
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Commercial user
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Quote:
![]() You need to be careful to check only 1 thing at a time so it gives you the best chance of finding the noise. Suggest the following: 1) Check everything on the N/S/R is tight - Spring seats, top mount etc then road test to check if cured. 2) Switch the shock absorbers left to right then road test to see if the noise moves. If it swaps sides it may be a shocker (very unusual) BUT if it doesn't it rules out a shocker fault. 3) Depending on the shocks trial maybe switch the spring seats and springs left to right and see if the noise swaps sides on road test? If none of the side-swaps moves the noise it os most likely to be a body or trim vibration causing the noise. Please let us know what you find as we've not had any other issues and as I said previously my car is very quiet as are all the other kits we've supplied or fitted. Cheers, |
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#20 (permalink) |
** Thread starter **
![]() Car: 2009 CTR GT, Albaster Silver
Join Date: 6th November 2011
Location: England, Padiham/Burnley
Posts: 533
Thanks given: 25
Thanked 41 Times in 38 Posts
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Didn't have time to swap the suspension just tightened everything up and re checked anything wasn't loose then greased the springs. Still the same rattling noise in the same area. Will next put the oem linear springs back on and see if that works. If this doesn't work send the rear kit back to manufacture as this noise is not acceptable it's quite embrassing.
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