should i wax after a respray?

[psykik]

So i just got the spaceship back from the stealers bodyshop, they resprayed the bonnet and buffed up the rest of the car to get rid of the swirls (amazing for a car just 8 months old)...

What ive got
meguairs g220 dual action kit
megs clay kit
collonite 915

snow foam lance
karchers pressure washer

I'm itchin to give this stuff a go, so whens the right time??

I just read this from pistonheads so was unsure...

Don't wax after a respray

Car cleaning product maker issues advice


Seriously shiny
Keeping your pride and joy clean isn't simple -- especially if it's just had a respray. According to one car cleaning product maker, you need to give the car at least 90 days afterwards before waxing it. Meguiar's calls this the ‘wax trap’ -- applying wax polish to fresh paint finishes which it claimed can damage your re-painting investment.
Meguiar's UK boss Steve King said: "Repainting is a significant cost, but many owners don’t realise that, unlike new car factory finishes, repainted car finishes require special attention for their first 90 days. Applying car wax to a fresh re-paint can trap solvents in the paint, and impeding the ‘cross-linking’ of modern paint polymers. This prevents a complete curing process and leaves the finish vulnerable to premature deterioration."
During the critical first 90 days, fresh paintwork must be allowed to breathe as solvent evaporates, the curing process completes and the paint achieves its optimal hardness and durability, said the company.
Meguiar's has issued this advice for new paint finishes:
1. Wash frequently -- during the first 90 days, freshly painted car finishes are soft and easily penetrated by bonded contaminants. This makes it especially important to wash your car more frequently during this time period. Regular car washing is the easiest way to remove contaminants before they have enough time to bond to your paint finish and the following tips may help:

• To minimise water spotting and etching, always wash your car in the shade and make certain that the surface is cool to the touch.
• For best results, never use dishwashing or household detergents to wash your car. They will dry out your paint and accelerate the oxidation process. Use only good quality car wash formulations which are pH-balanced and will enhance and condition your newly painted surface. Meguiar's obviously recommends its own...
• Start from the top and work your way down, one section at a time, applying car wash solution liberally using a deep pile washmitt (Guess what? Meguiar's makes them too...).
• Use two buckets, one for washing and one for rinsing, or a grit guard, to make certain that your sponge, brush or mitt is not inflicting avoidable scratches by reapplying the dirt and grime that you just removed.
• To reduce the time it takes to dry your vehicle, on the final rinse, remove the nozzle and let the water gently flow out over the surfaces of your car in a stream of water rather than a spray. This will sheet the water off your car, leaving much less water to dry and saving you a lot of time and effort.
• To avoid scratches during the drying process, only use a high quality microfibre towel. Meguiar’s said its towels are trimmed with "premium satin edges" to prevent scratches.

2. Remove contaminants immediately - Regular maintenance with a mist and wipe product removes fresh contaminants before they have time to bond to, or etch into, your paint finish.
Quickly remove water spots and contaminants like bird droppings, bugs, tree sap mist, road film, dust and overspray to provide a renewed shine. Stubborn stains or spots that cannot be removed with a mist and wipe product should be immediately washed.
3. Use only a pure polish on fresh paint -- unlike car waxes, a "pure" polish can be used on fresh paint to create brilliant, deep, clear gloss. Rather than coat your finish, pure polishes penetrate, rejuvenate and remove surface imperfection to create a bright finish without inhibiting the curing process.
After 90 days, most repainted car finishes are fully cured and ready to wax. Any paintwork will benefit from an annual ‘deep cleanse’ to remove wax build-up and prevent the early on-set of oxidation.
4. You can extend the life of your paint finish, said Meguiar's, with the following tips:

• Park your car in the shade and under cover to avoid contaminants and UV degradation.
• Avoid parking near trees. Tree sap mist is the most prevalent bonded contaminant on car finishes, destroying slickness and gloss.
• Avoid the use of rubbing compounds and all other abrasive products.
• To achieve maximum gloss and protection, use a detailing clay or clear coat-safe paint cleaner to make your paint as smooth as glass before you wax your car.
• Wash your car regularly to remove contaminants before they have time to bond and etch into your paint finish.

"By following these simple suggestions, your freshly painted car could look like new for as long as you own it", said King.

[NEEMSTAR]

how does it look Si

[psykik]

neems - dammit it just feels better to be drivin without swirl marks all over and chips on my bonnet. Now its been raining for 2 days, havent seen it dry yet so cant yet say. I RESERVE judgement until i can get it all dry and shiny again and when thats done, im gonna take some pics!

The good news:
it didnt look lumpy or like "orange peel" ie like coplands photos of his respray did. Infact, i took photos of coplands respray with me before i booked it in, and insisted i didnt want to be paying for work like that! (thankyou Copland!)
The paintwork at the honda approved bodyshop was guaranteed for 3 years, they did a top up of pureguard as well.
Think i got good value for 250 quid including an all over buff up to remove swirl marks which were everywhere, and i was quoted 350 quid for just the bonnet elsewhere.

The bad news:
Havent had a good look or been able to take good photos yet.
It definetly needs a shine and im waitin for a good time to do it!
Ive spent 200 quid on the g220 kit, 100 quid on all sorts of cloths and waxes, 50 quid on a foam lance, 250 on the buff and respray, wow its all adding up!

[illegalhunter]

pics please

[psykik]

illegal hunter, if it ever stops raining....

do i wax after a respray or not?

[PJS]

Paint can take up to 6 months to fully cure, so any wax/sealant on fresh paint will slow the process of outgassing, resulting in the paint remaining softer/less resilient for longer.

[psykik]

PJS uh oh, i just want it shiny shiny again....

[robbo51]

I would leave it a few days, maybe two weeks, then attack it with Collinite (3/4 coats)

[psykik]

robbo ok will do as you say, can you give me an idiot's guide for washing it, how you dry it (pat dry ok?), what youre using for each stage, and what youre doing in between wax coats?

Tools ive bought and unsure about their suitability but boy would i like to use em!
megs g220
snow foam lance
pressure washer
megs clay kit
collonite 915

What do you reccomend?

[PJS]

Presuming you already have a sheepskin wash mitt, then use the PW and lance with some Snow Foam (Bilt Hamber Auto Foam), and use that to pre-wash the car with.
With a light touch, once rinsed off, wash the car with the mitt - rinsing it in a clean bucket of warm water after each panel.
Don't scrub back and forth - left and right x2 should be sufficient, with little/no pressure. Start at the roof, and work round and down. Most dirt gathers at the lower 1/3 of the car.
Rinse thoroughly and pat dry.
Put your wax on and that's you.

Carry a bottle of water and some QD, along with a MF towel/cloth (fluffier the better) to tackle any bird bombs as soon as you see them.

Park in the open, away from trees and rooftops, and full sun - this'll help reduce chances of BB's and let the paint cure quicker than in the shade.

No need at this stage to worry about the G220, and claying, unless you can feel lumps once washed. Leave paint wet, and run fingers over with clingfilm between them and the paintwork - any 'bits', take the clay bar to - little to no downward pressure.

[robbo51]

Originally Posted by PJS

Presuming you already have a sheepskin wash mitt, then use the PW and lance with some Snow Foam (Bilt Hamber Auto Foam), and use that to pre-wash the car with.
With a light touch, once rinsed off, wash the car with the mitt - rinsing it in a clean bucket of warm water after each panel.
Don't scrub back and forth - left and right x2 should be sufficient, with little/no pressure. Start at the roof, and work round and down. Most dirt gathers at the lower 1/3 of the car.
Rinse thoroughly and pat dry.
Put your wax on and that's you.

Carry a bottle of water and some QD, along with a MF towel/cloth (fluffier the better) to tackle any bird bombs as soon as you see them.

Park in the open, away from trees and rooftops, and full sun - this'll help reduce chances of BB's and let the paint cure quicker than in the shade.

No need at this stage to worry about the G220, and claying, unless you can feel lumps once washed. Leave paint wet, and run fingers over with clingfilm between them and the paintwork - any 'bits', take the clay bar to - little to no downward pressure.

You can't go wrong with this advice.
Clay bar....I wouldnt use one at this stage.
Maybe in the autumn before a new waxing for the winter

[psykik]

the bonnet respray is coming up to 2 weeks now. My collinite 915 has finally arrived. My G220 is itching to be used but i have exercised caution thus far.

Do you think it might be ok to
1) Snow foam
2) Wash carefully
3) Claybar with megs clay kit
4) Apply 3-4 coats of collinite with the G220 DA unit? or is that too much machine polishing?


What do you think?

[Unknownsoldier]

Sounds like too much machine polishing, I would continue by hand at this point, being very gentle, remeber you can never use too much water when washing your car (preferably when washing the water should always be running from your mitt, this allows most dirt to be 'washed' off the paintwork, before you come to it with the mitt).

Good luck,
Tom

[Dimplyred]

I wouldn't use the machine polisher on the bonnet just yet.

[dmacg69]

Originally Posted by psykik

do i wax after a respray or not?

I've just had my bonnet resprayed, picked the car up Wednesday and asked the bodyshop manager if I would have to leave the paint a while before waxing.
He told me I could do it straight away as the bonnet was baked in their oven and anything would have "flashed" off then. They used water based paint on mine (bugger) so don't know if that makes a difference compared to solvent based paints.

[PJS]

Originally Posted by psykik

1) Snow foam
2) Wash carefully
3) Claybar with megs clay kit
4) Apply 3-4 coats of collinite with the G220 DA unit? or is that too much machine polishing?

1) Yes
2) Definitely
3) Best not to unless you can feel any nibs in the paintwork using the fingertip/clingfilm test on the wet panels after washing.
4) Your clearcoat will still be outgassing, and likely to do so for another 6 weeks or more, so you could or maybe look at Cleakcoat Quikshine (or another QD with carnauba), and keep it handy in the car incase of birds doing bombing practice runs over your motor.
Definitely no need to touch with the G220, and even if it is swirled to buggery, best leave it until the paint is 6 months old, as it should be fully cured and harder by then.

[PJS]

Originally Posted by dmacg69

I've just had my bonnet resprayed, picked the car up Wednesday and asked the bodyshop manager if I would have to leave the paint a while before waxing.
He told me I could do it straight away as the bonnet was baked in their oven and anything would have "flashed" off then. They used water based paint on mine (bugger) so don't know if that makes a difference compared to solvent based paints.

Alas, he's a little over-optimistic on how much flashing 20 odd ºC creates/permits.
As above, 6-8 weeks is best guess, with up to 6 months needed by some paints to be fully cured/hardened.
Anything which plugs the pores, etc will only delay the outgassing period.
If you basked a car for 3-5 days at 35-45ºC, then I'd say it'd be 99.99% likely to be as cured as it'd ever be - but that costs lots of money, which we wouldn't be prepared to pay.