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#1 (permalink) |
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living the dream
![]() Car: 2006 1.8 EX, Milano
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1.8 upgrade battery from Bosch S4021
I already have a Bosch S4021 in my 1.8 and I'm finding if the car is stood for 48 hours it won't start.
I may have something causing a slow drain which I'm sure is going to be a nightmare to find.. I do own a ctek charger and have been using it recently but after an 8 hour charge last night the car still wouldn't start this morning (battery left in car overnight) The s4021 is rated at 45ah, what higher rated options are there that people have managed to fit in the civic? I'm not using the standard air box so should have some extra space. I think the Bosch has gone flat so many times now that I've probably ruined it. I've heard of an micu recall on the 06 but mine doesn't come up when I check the vin and I can't afford hundreds to replace it if it's not required. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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living the dream
** Thread starter **
![]() Car: 2006 1.8 EX, Milano
Join Date: 9th April 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
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Thanks.
car won't start this mining at all despite having the battery on charge all night. It was in recon mode which includes a test to ensure it Holds charge it passed from what I could tell.. I guess I need a new battery? |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Most Active Australian
![]() Car: 2010 Black Civic Si FK2
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Installing a new battery will be useless if you have a parasitic draw issue as your new battery will go flat as well.
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#5 (permalink) |
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living the dream
** Thread starter **
![]() Car: 2006 1.8 EX, Milano
Join Date: 9th April 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
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I followed the video (which is excellent so thanks for that) found a draw of 0.37 which dissapeared after I removed fuse that says 15 (in the attached pic) I'm not sure what it is though!? Just searching now.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1345146842.189568.jpg
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#6 (permalink) |
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living the dream
** Thread starter **
![]() Car: 2006 1.8 EX, Milano
Join Date: 9th April 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
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Thanks given: 186
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I don't understand the diagram in the manual
I have noticed that if I pull the fuse it stops the remote central locking from working! Non of the fuse descriptions in the manual mention any 'remote locking' or similar... One fuse is described as 'back up'? Anyone got any ideas? Cheers |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Most Active Australian
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You will have to look at a wiring diagram of what circuits are controlled by fuse 15.
I hope you also tried the inside fuse panel. P.S why is your fusebox so dirty? |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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living the dream
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Quote:
Not sure why it's got so dirty the cover has always been on. Looks a bit worse than it is due to camera flash. Not checked interior fuses yet either. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Most Active Australian
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Check the interior fuses with fuse 15 plugged in to see if it goes down and see what is controlled by that fuse. and their will always be some current draw which is about <30mA.
And when doing this test make sure you keep the doors closed. And what was the fuse number(not amp rating) Last edited by Grayfox; 17th August 2012 at 11:30. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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living the dream
** Thread starter **
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I've clamped the door switch in closed position and been doing some testing on the interior fuse box.
To start with multimeter was reading 0.47 after taking out fuse 16 (reverse lights) it dropped to 0.19. I put the fuse back in and it stayed at 0.19 though!? I do have a reversing camera. I would have thought putting the fuse back in would mean the reading would go up again though? I have my multimeter on the 10A setting. Should I be expecting a 0.05 reading? Thanks for your help so far it's very much appreciated. Rich |
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#11 (permalink) |
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living the dream
** Thread starter **
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Just noticed fuse 16 is right headlight... So it's not reverse lights then... What fuse no. For rears?
Cheers |
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#14 (permalink) |
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what would help a lot is if you had an identical civic to compare the loads with when removing fuses etc as this would make it easier to find were the current is going rather than thinking something is taking current but is the norm on all civics
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#15 (permalink) |
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when you get to the new battery euro car parts with the discount code listed on the forum will save you a fortune! and bosch silver batterys are awesome
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Thanks to coste1l from:
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#16 (permalink) | |
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living the dream
** Thread starter **
![]() Car: 2006 1.8 EX, Milano
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Quote:
still need to get to the bottom of the drain before installing it obviously. I had to stop testing due to rain yesterday. unfortunately I don't know of another civic close by to compare the drain either. I believe I need to get it to the point where the multimeter is reading 0.05 or less when on the 10A setting. lowest so far is 0.19. from that I've read it could be the HFT, so I will try unplugging that which I believe is a little black box with a bluetooth logo on in the drivers footwell. (as it doesn't have its own fuse?) I've still got some more interior fuses to try. pita. |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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living the dream
** Thread starter **
![]() Car: 2006 1.8 EX, Milano
Join Date: 9th April 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
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Thanks given: 186
Thanked 63 Times in 51 Posts
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Quote:
are there any specific fuses I should be concentrating on first? ie. the common culprits? can someone with a 1.8 EX confirm the exact drain they have when the car is stood (after the 15mins) please? cheers |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Most Active Australian
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I would assume MICU because that is the brains and but any circuit can go nuts and do crazy things.
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#20 (permalink) |
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living the dream
** Thread starter **
![]() Car: 2006 1.8 EX, Milano
Join Date: 9th April 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 854
Thanks given: 186
Thanked 63 Times in 51 Posts
iTrader: (4)
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Been through all the interior fuses now. Can't find the drain...
when I remove fuse 16 (described as 'back up' in the manual) from the under bonnet fuse the drain instantly goes from 0.47 to 0.03. I've no idea what it means by 'back up' though. it stops remote central locking from working when removed, not sure what else. |
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