Oil Recommended Oil for I-VTEC annd I-CDTI - Page 3

madasadad · 11th June 2007, 13:53

I went to my local, not where I purchased the car, dealer about 1 month ago for top up oil. They sold me Castrol 0-30 SLX in a very nice refill pack with gloves, funnel and a bag which velcro'd to the boot sidewall.
I then went back today and dealer told me he was out of it and to use any 5-40 synthetic. I told him about the SLX being 0-30 and he said 5-40 was the one to use. This contradicts the service book. Not happy

. Phoned my original dealer, he said Honda don't do litre packs and that all iCDTI engines HAD to use 0-30 oil and that he would give me some if I called in, they only had it in 45 gallon drums!. Does anyone know the correct answer, or maybe there isn't one. Anyway doesn't really matter to me, I'm going through oil at a shocking rate. 1 litre in the first 5000miles and 1/2 litre in the last 2500, I could nearly be using Crisp and Dry! Only joking

elfa7 · 11th June 2007, 14:01

Diesel should be 0-30 fully synthetic.

PJS · 11th June 2007, 14:18

Can I point out that the term synthetic (when referring to hydrocracked dino oil) has been sanctioned by the SAE and it's nothing to do with the Government allowing oil companies to get away with misrepresentation.

Secondly, don't get hung up on the weight of the oil - the weights aren't definitive, and as such one company's 0w-30 is another's 10w-20.
What you need to do is find an oil that matches the Class your engine needs, e.g. API SL/CF, ACEA A3-04/**-04/C3-04. (2.2 i-CDTi)

Fond fan of Liqui Moly - some useful/interesting info:
http://oelberater.liquimoly.de/liqui...sp?LANGUAGE=en
http://www.liquimoly.de/web/lmhomeen...ages/techinfos
http://www.liquimoly.de/web/lmhomeen...index_produkte

elfa7 · 11th June 2007, 15:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by PJS

Can I point out that the term synthetic (when referring to hydrocracked dino oil) has been sanctioned by the SAE and it's nothing to do with the Government allowing oil companies to get away with misrepresentation.

Secondly, don't get hung up on the weight of the oil - the weights aren't definitive, and as such one company's 0w-30 is another's 10w-20.
What you need to do is find an oil that matches the Class your engine needs, e.g. API SL/CF, ACEA A3-04/**-04/C3-04. (2.2 i-CDTi)

Fond fan of Liqui Moly - some useful/interesting info:
http://oelberater.liquimoly.de/liqui...sp?LANGUAGE=en
http://www.liquimoly.de/web/lmhomeen...ages/techinfos
http://www.liquimoly.de/web/lmhomeen...index_produkte

Thanks for that. So as long as its ACEA C3-04 for the diesel, we'll be o.k.

PJS · 11th June 2007, 16:35

For us here in the UK, pretty much as the relative difference in viscosity between 0w and 10w is negligible for the type of winter temps we see.
Similarly, 30 is more than adequate since we rarely see much above that.
If you can get technical info and see the viscosity index and kinematic viscosity at each measured temperature point (40ºC & 100ºC normally), then you can see which brand is more fluid, which is better for fuel consumption and quicker to pump round the system when starting.
So long as the API Class and weight are as per the owner's manual, you'll be fine - but some oils are "finer" than others.

More reading - http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/v...p?f=69&t=25347

Better oils would be:
Mobil 1, Fuchs/Silkolene, Amsoil, Liqui Moly, Redline, Motul, than the generally sufficient big brands (Castrol, Shell, etc)
FWIW, you should also be changing oil as per the severe schedule, especially if dino oil has been used - hydrocracked or not. It's a fallacy to believe oil lasts for 12 months or 12-15K miles.

nortones2 · 14th June 2007, 11:03

PJS: re 'Better oils would be: Mobil 1, Fuchs/Silkolene, Amsoil, Liqui Moly, Redline, Motul, than the generally sufficient big brands (Castrol, Shell, etc)' what evidence is there that the first listed oil makers are 'better' than the last two? I also cannot see why severe service applies to all vehicles: again, is there evidence that accepted European extended OCI are harmful where correctly applied? Obviously there are certain patterns of use (short runs etc) where the oil should be changed early as the engine maker states this. Just wondering what info you may have.

PJS · 14th June 2007, 12:08

The evidence is derived from the fact the former use PAO/Ester based synth base stock, whereas the latter use hydrocracked mineral oil.
As for severe schedule maintenance - I should clarify that that pertains to the hydrocracked oils rather than the true synthetics, but not exclusively.
I'll see if I can dig out the link to where it was stated that oil degradation and therefore usefulness was reached with that sort of mileage - 5-7K miles.

nortones2 · 14th June 2007, 15:28

Some Castrol and Shell products use Gp IV and V, as well as severely hydrocracked Gp III. Some Mobil and Amsoil products are Gp III, some may well be Gp II. They all make a range of oils at various price levels. The 0w/30 Castrol oil is, I think, a Gp IV oil, as mineral derived oils are unlikely to achieve 0w/xx viscosity. It fully meets your preference for a full synthetic. So, why decry Castrol or Shell? I have no connection with the firms BTW: just curious about the stance.

PJS · 14th June 2007, 23:17

I think you're reading too much into my original post - I wasn't decrying, but merely offering that the typical stuff a dealer will put in your car (if self oil changing isn't done) is adequate for the job it has to do.
Like all things - makes and specific models of cars included - some people prefer to go that extra bit beyond sufficient.
The links above should be enough for most owners to help make their minds up whether the PAO type oils are more than they need, or exactly what they want to provide peace of mind for them.

Haven't had a chance to find the link I had hoped to - but I will soon (he says hopefully!).

Ancient Nerd · 14th June 2007, 23:35

Well, I've just had the 2nd (25,000 mile) service done. I took in two five litre containers of Amsoil 0W-30 in the boot, and asked the dealer to use it on the first line of the (very long) list of things to be done.

Sadly, I still have the 10 litres as that bit was missed. Very annoying, as the wear specs for the Amsoil are significantly better than for Castrol, and a fair bit better than Mobil 1.

However the dealer has been very helpful otherwise, a number of other things were fixed at last, and I really didn't want to bring the car back again tomorrow to replace the Castrol - the offer was made. The dealer is anything but local, so it's a lot of extra time and mileage.

I don't think this will happen again

, but I will get it changed if so, regardless of time, as I think the oil is seriously good, and I really don't need two £50 doorstops.

nortones2 · 15th June 2007, 10:23

Ah, the 4-ball wear test - designed for industrial gear lubricants, steel on steel wear. Not an industry-recognised test for engine oil.

civicg · 17th July 2007, 21:28

You lot are doing my head in with all this!

Went to the fuel station and saw Castrol Edge, was about to buy 0-30 but it did not specify if it was for Diesals so I left it. Now I find out you can use the same one for petrols and diesals.

So safe bet is the Castrol 0-30 Edge/SLX

AGREED?

PTR · 17th July 2007, 21:55

yes!

Castrol Edge (or SLX Longtec) 0w-30 is the perfect oil for diesel, petrol also

exception: diesel with DPF there you should use Castrol Edge 0w-30 Diesel

vteclover · 17th July 2007, 22:01

i will use the origianl honda 0w20 oil which is also good for the jazz 1.4, the thinner the better for the hp and fuel economy. the manual also says its allowed for the 1.8

PTR · 17th July 2007, 22:09

yes that's also fine. but if you rev it hard etc. it will burn (a bit) more oil from the 0w-20

at my oil change I will buy the Edge or the Mobil1 0w-40
might be the second one... in these days the temp. was here 36++ C degrees here

civicg · 18th July 2007, 10:46

I really have concerns of what my dealer puts in during the service.

One thing I have done in the past is always ask for any oil left over in the bottle/tin.

Recently I tried thesame with the dealership and the answer I got was that they buy a massive barrel of engine oil and they use that one for the cars. Straight away I didnt have a good feeling about it.

Ask him to confirm they used 0-30 and after a slight delay it was the dreaded salesman answer of "Oh yeh they would of put the right one in!"

Vtec Power · 18th July 2007, 11:44

sorry I ain't too clued up with oils, I have read this thread and am not 100% convinced which oil to use...I have the 1.8i-Vtec and live in SA, where we can temperatures of between 0 and 35, mostly our day temratures are above 10...What oil should I use?

PTR · 18th July 2007, 11:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vtec Power

sorry I ain't too clued up with oils, I have read this thread and am not 100% convinced which oil to use...I have the 1.8i-Vtec and live in SA, where we can temperatures of between 0 and 35, mostly our day temratures are above 10...What oil should I use?

use full synthetic 0w-30 or 0w-40 both are perfect

Vtec Power · 18th July 2007, 11:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by PTR

use full synthetic 0w-30 or 0w-40 both are perfect

Cool, thanx

Stype_GT · 19th July 2007, 15:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by steeeveee

Just took delivery of my civic, when asked about oil, bristol honda said they used fully synthetic castrol 0-30. I since bought some at Halfords for £14.00/litre. lets hope it does'nt use too much of that!

Hey Steve,

Would be interested to here if your's is drinking alot (As I have the same model). Had mine nearly a week but haven't checked the oil as yet! (saving it till the weekend as an excuse to get out of the house and tinker with the new toy).

Rich.

11th June 2007, 13:53	#41 (permalink)
madasadad Supporter Triangular Exhaust Join Date: 21st February 2007 Location: Carrickfergus Posts: 272 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	I went to my local, not where I purchased the car, dealer about 1 month ago for top up oil. They sold me Castrol 0-30 SLX in a very nice refill pack with gloves, funnel and a bag which velcro'd to the boot sidewall. I then went back today and dealer told me he was out of it and to use any 5-40 synthetic. I told him about the SLX being 0-30 and he said 5-40 was the one to use. This contradicts the service book. Not happy. Phoned my original dealer, he said Honda don't do litre packs and that all iCDTI engines HAD to use 0-30 oil and that he would give me some if I called in, they only had it in 45 gallon drums!. Does anyone know the correct answer, or maybe there isn't one. Anyway doesn't really matter to me, I'm going through oil at a shocking rate. 1 litre in the first 5000miles and 1/2 litre in the last 2500, I could nearly be using Crisp and Dry! Only joking

11th June 2007, 16:35	#45 (permalink)
PJS Triangular Exhaust Join Date: 27th May 2006 Location: Belfast Posts: 432 Thanks: 0 Thanked 15 Times in 12 Posts iTrader: (0)	For us here in the UK, pretty much as the relative difference in viscosity between 0w and 10w is negligible for the type of winter temps we see. Similarly, 30 is more than adequate since we rarely see much above that. If you can get technical info and see the viscosity index and kinematic viscosity at each measured temperature point (40ºC & 100ºC normally), then you can see which brand is more fluid, which is better for fuel consumption and quicker to pump round the system when starting. So long as the API Class and weight are as per the owner's manual, you'll be fine - but some oils are "finer" than others. More reading - http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/v...p?f=69&t=25347 Better oils would be: Mobil 1, Fuchs/Silkolene, Amsoil, Liqui Moly, Redline, Motul, than the generally sufficient big brands (Castrol, Shell, etc) FWIW, you should also be changing oil as per the severe schedule, especially if dino oil has been used - hydrocracked or not. It's a fallacy to believe oil lasts for 12 months or 12-15K miles. Last edited by PJS; 11th June 2007 at 20:31.

17th July 2007, 22:01	#54 (permalink)
vteclover Valve Cap Join Date: 27th January 2007 Location: netherlands Posts: 15 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	i will use the origianl honda 0w20 oil which is also good for the jazz 1.4, the thinner the better for the hp and fuel economy. the manual also says its allowed for the 1.8 Last edited by vteclover; 17th July 2007 at 22:03.

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This thread is about: Recommended Oil for I-VTEC annd I-CDTI, it's in Engines and Transmission at the Honda Civic forum Civinfo; I went to my local, not where I purchased the car, dealer about 1 month ago for top up oil. They sold me Castrol 0-30 ...

11th June 2007, 14:01	#42 (permalink)
elfa7 Supporter Rocketship door handle Join Date: 8th May 2006 Location: Cheshire Posts: 1,703 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	Diesel should be 0-30 fully synthetic.

11th June 2007, 14:18	#43 (permalink)
PJS Triangular Exhaust Join Date: 27th May 2006 Location: Belfast Posts: 432 Thanks: 0 Thanked 15 Times in 12 Posts iTrader: (0)	Can I point out that the term synthetic (when referring to hydrocracked dino oil) has been sanctioned by the SAE and it's nothing to do with the Government allowing oil companies to get away with misrepresentation. Secondly, don't get hung up on the weight of the oil - the weights aren't definitive, and as such one company's 0w-30 is another's 10w-20. What you need to do is find an oil that matches the Class your engine needs, e.g. API SL/CF, ACEA A3-04/**-04/C3-04. (2.2 i-CDTi) Fond fan of Liqui Moly - some useful/interesting info: http://oelberater.liquimoly.de/liqui...sp?LANGUAGE=en http://www.liquimoly.de/web/lmhomeen...ages/techinfos http://www.liquimoly.de/web/lmhomeen...index_produkte

14th June 2007, 11:03	#46 (permalink)
nortones2 Valve Cap Join Date: 12th May 2007 Location: Lancashire Posts: 34 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	PJS: re 'Better oils would be: Mobil 1, Fuchs/Silkolene, Amsoil, Liqui Moly, Redline, Motul, than the generally sufficient big brands (Castrol, Shell, etc)' what evidence is there that the first listed oil makers are 'better' than the last two? I also cannot see why severe service applies to all vehicles: again, is there evidence that accepted European extended OCI are harmful where correctly applied? Obviously there are certain patterns of use (short runs etc) where the oil should be changed early as the engine maker states this. Just wondering what info you may have.

14th June 2007, 12:08	#47 (permalink)
PJS Triangular Exhaust Join Date: 27th May 2006 Location: Belfast Posts: 432 Thanks: 0 Thanked 15 Times in 12 Posts iTrader: (0)	The evidence is derived from the fact the former use PAO/Ester based synth base stock, whereas the latter use hydrocracked mineral oil. As for severe schedule maintenance - I should clarify that that pertains to the hydrocracked oils rather than the true synthetics, but not exclusively. I'll see if I can dig out the link to where it was stated that oil degradation and therefore usefulness was reached with that sort of mileage - 5-7K miles.

14th June 2007, 15:28	#48 (permalink)
nortones2 Valve Cap Join Date: 12th May 2007 Location: Lancashire Posts: 34 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	Some Castrol and Shell products use Gp IV and V, as well as severely hydrocracked Gp III. Some Mobil and Amsoil products are Gp III, some may well be Gp II. They all make a range of oils at various price levels. The 0w/30 Castrol oil is, I think, a Gp IV oil, as mineral derived oils are unlikely to achieve 0w/xx viscosity. It fully meets your preference for a full synthetic. So, why decry Castrol or Shell? I have no connection with the firms BTW: just curious about the stance.

14th June 2007, 23:17	#49 (permalink)
PJS Triangular Exhaust Join Date: 27th May 2006 Location: Belfast Posts: 432 Thanks: 0 Thanked 15 Times in 12 Posts iTrader: (0)	I think you're reading too much into my original post - I wasn't decrying, but merely offering that the typical stuff a dealer will put in your car (if self oil changing isn't done) is adequate for the job it has to do. Like all things - makes and specific models of cars included - some people prefer to go that extra bit beyond sufficient. The links above should be enough for most owners to help make their minds up whether the PAO type oils are more than they need, or exactly what they want to provide peace of mind for them. Haven't had a chance to find the link I had hoped to - but I will soon (he says hopefully!).

14th June 2007, 23:35	#50 (permalink)
Ancient Nerd Triangular Exhaust Join Date: 5th May 2006 Location: Norfolk Posts: 347 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	Well, I've just had the 2nd (25,000 mile) service done. I took in two five litre containers of Amsoil 0W-30 in the boot, and asked the dealer to use it on the first line of the (very long) list of things to be done. Sadly, I still have the 10 litres as that bit was missed. Very annoying, as the wear specs for the Amsoil are significantly better than for Castrol, and a fair bit better than Mobil 1. However the dealer has been very helpful otherwise, a number of other things were fixed at last, and I really didn't want to bring the car back again tomorrow to replace the Castrol - the offer was made. The dealer is anything but local, so it's a lot of extra time and mileage. I don't think this will happen again , but I will get it changed if so, regardless of time, as I think the oil is seriously good, and I really don't need two £50 doorstops.

15th June 2007, 10:23	#51 (permalink)
nortones2 Valve Cap Join Date: 12th May 2007 Location: Lancashire Posts: 34 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	Ah, the 4-ball wear test - designed for industrial gear lubricants, steel on steel wear. Not an industry-recognised test for engine oil.

17th July 2007, 21:28	#52 (permalink)
civicg Locking Wheelnut Join Date: 3rd May 2006 Location: Leeds Posts: 130 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	You lot are doing my head in with all this! Went to the fuel station and saw Castrol Edge, was about to buy 0-30 but it did not specify if it was for Diesals so I left it. Now I find out you can use the same one for petrols and diesals. So safe bet is the Castrol 0-30 Edge/SLX AGREED?

17th July 2007, 21:55	#53 (permalink)
PTR Magic Rear Seat Join Date: 4th October 2006 Location: Hungary Posts: 668 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	yes! Castrol Edge (or SLX Longtec) 0w-30 is the perfect oil for diesel, petrol also exception: diesel with DPF there you should use Castrol Edge 0w-30 Diesel

17th July 2007, 22:09	#55 (permalink)
PTR Magic Rear Seat Join Date: 4th October 2006 Location: Hungary Posts: 668 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	yes that's also fine. but if you rev it hard etc. it will burn (a bit) more oil from the 0w-20 at my oil change I will buy the Edge or the Mobil1 0w-40 might be the second one... in these days the temp. was here 36++ C degrees here

18th July 2007, 10:46	#56 (permalink)
civicg Locking Wheelnut Join Date: 3rd May 2006 Location: Leeds Posts: 130 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	I really have concerns of what my dealer puts in during the service. One thing I have done in the past is always ask for any oil left over in the bottle/tin. Recently I tried thesame with the dealership and the answer I got was that they buy a massive barrel of engine oil and they use that one for the cars. Straight away I didnt have a good feeling about it. Ask him to confirm they used 0-30 and after a slight delay it was the dreaded salesman answer of "Oh yeh they would of put the right one in!"

18th July 2007, 11:44	#57 (permalink)
Vtec Power Valve Cap Join Date: 29th May 2007 Location: South Africa Posts: 48 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	sorry I ain't too clued up with oils, I have read this thread and am not 100% convinced which oil to use...I have the 1.8i-Vtec and live in SA, where we can temperatures of between 0 and 35, mostly our day temratures are above 10...What oil should I use?