Transmission Car won't go in gear - Civinfo

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post #1 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 20:14 Thread Starter
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Car won't go in gear

So my car won't go in gear anymore (been like it for a few weeks now) it physically won't go in here, I can select a gear whilst the car is off but once the engine is started it won't.


So far I've raised the bite point and flush the fluid and replaced it. This helped for about a week then went back to no going in gears.

Also changed the master and slave cylinder today and did not help. Farts in it's a clutch or gear box problem now. Any advice?

The car is a 2.2 with a short shifter and cc clutch and and fitted by rid north a year ago
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post #2 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 20:28
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hi there sounds like a problem with the clutch pressure plate
did you change the flywheel when the clutch was done
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post #3 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 20:48
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Sounds familiar, had the same on my CC kit.

Do you still have a clutch damper installed?

Did you bleed the clutch by removing and raising the slave? Even depressing the slave arm whilst bleeding? Tis a pain the get the air out.
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post #4 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 20:55
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Bleeding the clutch hydraulics can be a pig. Have you tried bleeding whilst simultaneously forcing the slave into compression with a lever (or even bleeding with the slave unbolted and suspended as high as possible)?

I guess that the problem could be the clutch mechanism, but the fact that fresh fluid did provide a temporary cure is perhaps an indication of a hydraulic problem? Fingers crossed!

EDIT - I promise that I didn't just copy Farqui's answer!
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Last edited by Jon_G; 3rd February 2017 at 20:57.
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post #5 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 21:00 Thread Starter
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The clutch was done by tdi north was the CC Clutch kit and SMF.

A local mechanic did the bleed and flush, i don't really have much idea about it all!


Edit: yes the damper is still installed, unless tdi by passed it when they installed but I did not ask for it to be done.
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post #6 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 21:11
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Get rid of the damper, that's most likely your problem.

If your undertray is off, then you can the damper or lack of it from underneath. Otherwise you'll need to remove the battery and tray, unless you have an inspection mirror or high tech camera probe thingymajig.

TDiNorth didn't remove dampers initially, was yours an early install?
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post #7 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 21:16 Thread Starter
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Does freakyparry supply the hose needed for the by pass? Is there a hownto on here? Tdi did the clutch about a year ago, can't remember the date but was mid jan 16
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post #8 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 21:24
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Yeah, Freaky or TDiNorth supply the bypass hose. It's not expensive and will make the clutch lighter too.

I can dig out a guide for you later, there are a few around here.
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post #9 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 21:25
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The poor damper just can't cope with the extra pressure. With it gone, your clutch will be much more reliable.
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post #10 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 21:30 Thread Starter
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Many thanks, the weight of the clutch has never bothers me so never thought about doing it.

Will pm freaky parts now
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post #11 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 21:35
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Make sure Stuart's supplier gets the hose fitting right this time
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post #12 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 21:36 Thread Starter
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A guide would be great if you can
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post #13 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 21:37 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farqui View Post
Make sure Stuart's supplier gets the hose fitting right this time
Haha I'll mention it to him 😂
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post #14 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 22:20
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another thing to try is place the car in gear then press clutch in and try to start car see if it trys to move car or starts up ok
wont solve anything but will just highlight how bad the clutch isnt working
also whats the clutch pedal feel like when you press it if you pump it a few times does it get stifer or just feel same after every press
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post #15 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 22:37
 
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Use a vacuum bleeder to pull the air out of the line, it goes on the bleed nipple, you crack it and pump it out, Not got a vac pump and too cheap to buy one? well lucky for you that your engine is a big vac pump and if you like DIY then you can build one for about a couple of quid using a glass jam jar with a lid and say 8 feet of aquarium airline tubing, cut airline in half, drill 2 holes slightly smaller than the airline size 5-6mm roughly, pull both through the lid but have one reach the bottom of the jar and the other only needs to go in about an inch...thats you done

to use it connect the end that goes to the bottom of the jar to the bleed nipple and the other one that is only in about an inch should go on a vac port on the engine inlet manifold (and block up whatever hose you remove with a bolt), after the throttlebody as this is where the vacuum will be the highest, pull off the clutch master resivoir lid and crack the nipple and start adding fluid as it drops.

its the same principle as the "brake bleeders" that everyone used to make out a jars years ago (well they did when i was learning to work on cars, nowadays we just buy whats needed as a lot of auto repair stuff has gotten a lot cheaper and more accesible since i learned to drive) when doing brakes, except this has a vacumm port attached to help make it a 1 man operation
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post #16 of 164 (permalink) Old 3rd February 2017, 22:49
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The garage had no end of trouble with a vacuum bleed.

I used a force fed, Eezibleed without any bother. I bled the darn thing so many times trying to figure out what the issue was.
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post #17 of 164 (permalink) Old 4th February 2017, 07:56
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Just to chime in, I used old school method for bleeding. Worked a charm. I agree that it's most probably the damper at fault.
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post #18 of 164 (permalink) Old 5th February 2017, 14:23
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Perhaps a silly question, but WHY is the damper there?

I have a CC kit fitted to mine, and YES, when cold it is difficult getting in gear - I have to pump a couple of times, bearing in mind not to over-pressure / force the master / slave cylinders. It goes in every time, with care and patience.

Once warm, the clutch and gearbox are a dream - plenty of bite and the 'box brilliant, bite point higher than cold - which is perhaps 2-5 % up. When warm I would say between 20 - 35% with full retention when released on full load in 3rd / 4th.

Al.

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post #19 of 164 (permalink) Old 5th February 2017, 18:09
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The damper is there to help people who can't change gear properly. It also protects the drive train from shocks.

Not all models with the 2.2 have a damper e.g. the Accord so the drivetrain is able to cope without it.
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post #20 of 164 (permalink) Old 5th February 2017, 19:46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farqui View Post
The damper is there to help people who can't change gear properly. It also protects the drive train from shocks.

Not all models with the 2.2 have a damper e.g. the Accord so the drivetrain is able to cope without it.
Thanks.
Is there a 'kit', or as mentioned bypass pipe - Stewart of Freaky was mentioned?

It is not something I would take on myself, but how difficult / easy is it for somebody like Grinspeed or TDI?

Is it totally resolved once the bypass is removed and all bleeding completed?

How much of a pain is it bleeding the bleeder, sorry clutch system - are they likely to throw it at me saying it's done when it may probably not be?

Al.
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