Civinfo

17.jpg

Help Rules Search Clothing Stickers Surveys Wiki Forum
Go Back   Civinfo > 8th Generation Euro Honda Civic > Engines and Transmission

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 10th October 2011, 19:34   #21 (permalink)
** Thread starter **  
 
Join Date: 22nd June 2010
Location: Fife, UK SCOTLAND
Posts: 35
Thanks given: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
I removed the blanking plate, no difference at all.

Took the car to Honda and they did a diagnostic (which cost 85 quid) which pointed towards the turbo being faulty, so they replaced this, only to find another part was faulty. They couldn't give me a straight answer whether the turbo was faulty or not, because the second part is still giving a fault.

I am sure they said "DRV" (NOT EGR as I asked if it was the EGR), however, I can't find anything about this in the Haynes manual or online. I was told it is a valve "inside the vacuum system". The car is still going into limp home mode the same way as before, even with a new turbo.

They want me to pay for the turbo+labour as well as buy this new part plus labour, at a total cost of around 800. Surely they should use their own turbo to test, not make me buy one in the hope it is the turbo that is faulty.

I got well and truly screwed around last week, after booking it in for Thursday afternoon to get the turbo replaced, they then said it was booked in for Friday (definitely their fault as I knew I had things to do Thursday morning and on Friday so Thursday PM was my only option), they then phoned on Friday as I was making my way to the garage to say they had to order another part (a "turbo pipe" - which the independent garage had already looked at and said there was no wear or tears), which they fitted on Saturday. Going to the garage again today resulted in another day of loss of earnings due to having no transport to get to my work.

Any idea what this part could be (ERV,DRV,ERDV,DRVE??) and where I should go now - it is an Arnold Clark dealership, so wondering if I should make a formal complaint to Arnold Clark or Honda, or both.

Thanks
GrantG is offline   Reply With Quote
Thanks to GrantG from:
Old 10th October 2011, 22:32   #22 (permalink)
Cockup Specialist
 
Relic's Avatar
 
 
Car: 2007 2.2 Type 'S' GT, Bronze
Join Date: 31st August 2009
Location: uk ENGLAND
Posts: 12,883
Thanks given: 795
Thanked 1,659 Times in 1,423 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Make a formal complaint to the manager.
Noting that if this isnt resolved you will take it up with honda UK.
You dont pay for there guesswork.
You pay for replacement of faulty parts.
If the parts arent faulty you dont pay.
Relic is offline   Reply With Quote
Thanks to Relic from:
Old 11th October 2011, 01:12   #23 (permalink)
** Thread starter **  
 
Join Date: 22nd June 2010
Location: Fife, UK SCOTLAND
Posts: 35
Thanks given: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
Cheers

I'll start off with a friendly-ish letter of complaint, if I get nowhere, it's going to be all guns blazing...

I found the Civic Repair Guide online, which has a little coverage of this model, but not all (for instance, the P1401 has a diagnostic route but P1237 isnt mentioned). I now believe what I'm looking at is a faulty "EVRV", which, if this is not faulty, according to the diagnostics, the next step is a replacement EGR. Looks like Arnold Clark are set to spin another storyline and try to get me to replace all 3 in one fell swoop.
GrantG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11th October 2011, 09:26   #24 (permalink)
 
Car: 2003 1.7 Ctdi
Join Date: 10th October 2011
Location: Cumbria, UK GB
Posts: 10
Thanks given: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
Good grief GrantG - you've been to hell and back with this fault.

The problems you've faced appear common on older 1.7 CTDi model...as my 2003 engine has been playing up for about 18 months with this intermittent fault (I've owned it since 2006 and my only other major problem was replacing the alternator and vacuum pump last winter!!). I do my own car servicing and repairs - when I can - after a run in with Honda service's dept., the first year I bought the car!

During the past 18 months the car would run fine for 2/3 months...then suddenly go into limp mode - throwing fault code P1237. Up, until yesterday, I could re-set the MIL and the car would run fine for a further 2-3 months without any problem. Now it's showing an additional fault code (P1401) and limp mode is re-triggered within a short time of resetting the MIL.

I've thought for some time that the turbo would be the likely cause PURELY because that's all most people mention when talking about this scenaria. However, resetting the MIL light has - in the past - allowed the turbo to work again as normal for a few months...so I started to believe it was a sensor related problem...

I KNOW that a trip to Honda will result in them wanting to fit a new turbo...and, now, THANKS TO YOUR POSTING I can see that this might not resolve the problem!

Your posting, and that of fellow Forum members has been of great help...small comfort I know...

GOOD LUCK!

Last edited by Dav303; 11th October 2011 at 09:58.
Dav303 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11th October 2011, 10:58   #25 (permalink)
 
Car: 2003 1.7 Ctdi
Join Date: 10th October 2011
Location: Cumbria, UK GB
Posts: 10
Thanks given: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
Some additional info to consider....

For anyone else suffering this problem there's plenty of other past examples of this issue on Civic info, including here: Help!!!! 1.7CTDI

This also makes interesting reading:Engine fault light "Turbo boost pressure" fault • Honda Civic Forum (with acknowledgements and thanks to Honda civicforum)


And on the fuel side this makes interesting reading: honda civic civic hi there my honda civic 1.7 cdti diesel - JustAnswer

I've just spoken to a guy at my local motor factors who - from past experience - is very knowledgable. His two pennies' worth is: "Likely to be sooting up throughout the whole system that re-cycles the exhaust gas via the EGR valve..." His dad runs a garage and he's seen systems almost completely clogged on Vauxhall models which share the same engine...so says cleaning the EGR valve is ONLY the START* of the cleaning process! (he suggested the whole inlet manifold needed cleaning away the constictions caused by the sooty deposits. I should point out that he's ONLY familiar with the Vaux system NOT Honda's...)

Just out of interest he also suggested blanking off the EGR - without any prompting!! He said the systems were forever causing problems...

Hope this helps someone!

Dave C

Last edited by Dav303; 11th October 2011 at 17:00. Reason: added info
Dav303 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11th October 2011, 18:05   #26 (permalink)
** Thread starter **  
 
Join Date: 22nd June 2010
Location: Fife, UK SCOTLAND
Posts: 35
Thanks given: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
Hey Guys

You're right - a new turbo is all Honda will suggest.

I now believe I have identified the cause. IF the turbo is NOT working (ie. you NEVER get boost, even after resetting the MIL light), your problem is probably the turbo itself.

If the turbo does work intermittently (and always works once you turn the car off for 30 seconds), then the fault lies within the EVRV valve.

Basically, Honda (Arnold Clark) did not have, or did not use common sense, in using a stock turbo. As this is a common fault, you would have thought they would carry at least one 'test' turbo they could swap yours out with - they don't. They'll say you need to buy the turbo, which is in effect, allowing them to test if the fault is the turbo or not - if the latter, the EVRV valve is the faulty piece.

I have spoken with Lings and confirmed it is Part 8 which is the EVRV valve. Note there are two valves/adapters on the one bracket.

Now to take my findings back to Arnold Clark, who expect me to pay for the Diagnostic (68+VAT), which I have effectively done a true diagnostic by fitting a new turbo (330+1.5 hour labour) and now an EVRV (110+1 hour labour). They could not say whether the turbo was faulty or not - so regardless, I want my original turbo back.

Why I should be paying through the nose for them to effectively test, is beyond me.

If your computer is showing random readings for the pressure, it is likely either a split/tear in one of the vacuum tubes, or a faulty Boost Sensor, which Honda will quote around 270+VAT for. I would recommend asking someone with a Dingbro (or similar Bosch part wholesaler) as this only cost me 48+VAT from them for the same Bosch part number. Unfortunately my issue was caused by the EVRV, not the sensor, since the turbo wasn't working to full effect, I was given random air pressure readings which was the fault of the turbo as caused by the faulty EVRV - not the Boost Pressure sensor.

Hope that helps others with the same problem - going to take these findings to Arnold Clark in the morning followed by a swift letter of complaint to their HQ and express my disappointment to Honda about the service I have received at Arnold Clark.
GrantG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12th October 2011, 13:09   #27 (permalink)
 
Car: 2003 1.7 Ctdi
Join Date: 10th October 2011
Location: Cumbria, UK GB
Posts: 10
Thanks given: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
Thanks for updating you postings, GrantG, with your latest findings...I'm sure it will help others avoid going straight to the: "Buy new turbo" route...

Hmm...sounds like YOU should be sending Arnold Clark a bill for diagnostic work - NOT the other way round. No wonder you are naffed off with the garage!

A friend who's a qualified VAG technician - been a mechanic since the 70s - isn't impressed with the general standard of garage staff. He says trainers DO encourage apprentices to adopt a logical, systematic approach to problem solving...but they, and many mechanics too, still throw new parts at a problem. Maybe it's something to do with the way their bonus schemes work i.e. fitting a new part in quick time gets a bonus...where as spending time working out exactly what's wrong doesn't qualify you for anything other than a "hurry up" call from the Service Manager!

Let's face it mechanics rarely come across someone like you - or Relic - who's put a great deal of effort into working out what might be the cause...

So, well done for sticking with it. If the new part solves the problem then AC should refund you for the turbo and fitting...as that obviously wasn't the problem...

But one thing most mechanics share with doctors is an inability to admit they're wrong...so don't hold your breath!

I wish you good luck and hope you get a refund! You deserve it! Let us know how it goes...

As far as my problem goes...I noted Relic's earlier comments about airflow and realised I hadn't replaced my airfilter for a few years. When I took it out, yesterday, it was gunged up quite badly. Put the new one in and the light hasn't come back on since resetting it! I'M SURE this is just a temporary patchup - but the filter needed replacing anyway!!

Last edited by Dav303; 12th October 2011 at 13:18.
Dav303 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12th October 2011, 13:23   #28 (permalink)
pcr
 
pcr's Avatar
 
 
Join Date: 5th September 2006
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 1,461
Thanks given: 0
Thanked 47 Times in 46 Posts
iTrader: (0)
To expect you to pay for a diagnostic that was wrong and a new turbo that wasn't needed is just not on. I'll ask the wife what is wrong for you, she's got no idea either.
pcr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13th October 2011, 12:04   #29 (permalink)
 
Car: 2003 1.7 Ctdi
Join Date: 10th October 2011
Location: Cumbria, UK GB
Posts: 10
Thanks given: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
Well GrantG hope the garage don't keep you waiting too long for that refund!

My car was in for its MOT yesterday...and am pleased to say the dreaded MIL didn't glow enroute to the testing station! But I know my new airfilter is only a sticking plaster job - so have ordered a vacuum gauge with pump to check out the EGR's performance and do other vac tests etc.,

For anyone interested there's more info on its uses here:
http://www.sitebox.ltd.uk/docs/sealey/pdf/VS402.pdf

(N.B. I'm not recommending Sitebox...it simply has a PDF showing how to use a pump & gauge - on its website!!!)

D.C.

Last edited by Dav303; 13th October 2011 at 12:09.
Dav303 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th October 2011, 11:53   #30 (permalink)
 
Car: 2003 1.7 Ctdi
Join Date: 10th October 2011
Location: Cumbria, UK GB
Posts: 10
Thanks given: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
For people (like me) with limited DIY car repair skills this info:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=75959 (albiet for VWs - so it's not all useful!)
gives an insight into some problems shared with Honda Civic 1.7 ctdi owners...even though the engine/systems are different!

If you can't afford Honda replacing the turbo in case it isn't the problem (as GrantG found) you could try chemical cleaning the vanes...used by some VW owners: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=246287

It's not for the faint hearted...and,yep, that includes me!

Last edited by Dav303; 18th October 2011 at 15:02. Reason: info added
Dav303 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20th October 2011, 12:23   #31 (permalink)
 
Car: 2003 1.7 Ctdi
Join Date: 10th October 2011
Location: Cumbria, UK GB
Posts: 10
Thanks given: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
How to check your EVRV's working...

Any news re: replacing Electronic Vacuum Regulating Valve GrantG?

I came across Honda's proceedure for testing the Civic diesels' EVRV ...whilst searching the net...

Info courtesy of a posting on:

2003 honda civic 1.7cdti limp mode

DTC P1236: Boost Control Negative Deviation
Click the image to open in full size. DTC P1236 may be set when the fuel tank is empty or the specified fuel is not used.

  1. Do the ‘‘on board diagnostic (OBD) system check''.
  1. Check the DTC.
Are any other DTCs (beside DTC P1236) being output?
YES - Go to relevant DTC troubleshooting.
NO - Go to Step 3 .
  1. Check for the following conditions:
    • Damaged turbocharger boost sensor.
    • Damaged Turbo actuator valve or EVRV.
    • The vacuum hose between air cleaner and EVRV for blocks.
Is a problem found?
YES - Repair as necessary.■
NO - Go to Step 4 .
  1. Visually and physically inspect the turbo actuator pintle, for excessive deposits or any kind of a restriction.
    If a problem is found, clean or remove restriction from components as necessary.
Is a problem found after reinspection?
YES - Go to Step 10 .
NO - Go to Step 5 .
  1. Disconnect the EVRV connector.
  1. Measure resistance between the EVRV 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2.
Is there about 11−18 Ω at room temperature?
YES - Go to Step 7 .
NO - Replace the EVRV.■
  1. Remove the EVRV.
Click the image to open in full size.
  1. Connect a hand vacuum pump (with gauge) to the EVRV (A). Seal the solenoid out port with a clean finger.
  1. Apply 34 kPa (257 mmHg, 10 in.Hg) of vacuum with a hand vacuum pump and measure the time taken for vacuum to decay to 0 kPa.
Was the time taken for the vacuum decay less than 5 seconds?
YES - Replace the EVRV.■
NO - Go to Step 10 .
  1. Connect a hand vacuum pump (with gauge) to the turbo actuator.
  1. Apply 53 kPa (400 mmHg, 15 in.Hg) of vacuum with a hand vacuum pump, and check the turbo actuator pintle.
Is the control rod moved?
YES - Substitute a known-good ECM and recheck. If symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM .■
NO - Replace the turbocharger.■

Last edited by Dav303; 20th October 2011 at 12:58.
Dav303 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 31st October 2011, 13:02   #32 (permalink)
 
Car: 2003 1.7 Ctdi
Join Date: 10th October 2011
Location: Cumbria, UK GB
Posts: 10
Thanks given: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
Any response, to your letter, from the garage Grant?
Dav303 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 1st November 2011, 14:33   #33 (permalink)
 
Car: 2003 1.7 Ctdi
Join Date: 10th October 2011
Location: Cumbria, UK GB
Posts: 10
Thanks given: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
Anyone tried this product for cleaning the EGR valve and the air intake manifold on an engine: Wynns EGR 3 and High Pressure 3

...and if so: DOES IT WORK?!
Dav303 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 8th March 2012, 09:13   #34 (permalink)
 
Join Date: 5th May 2011
Location: uk GB
Posts: 5
Thanks given: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: (0)
so what was the problem with "GrantG" ?....what was the faulty part ?...i have the same problem.
goofy gorilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13th January 2013, 12:14   #35 (permalink)
Ico
 
Join Date: 12th January 2013
Location: Sofia BG
Posts: 3
Thanks given: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by goofy gorilla View Post
so what was the problem with "GrantG" ?....what was the faulty part ?...i have the same problem.
Mee too have the same problem and in one hounda forum in Bulgaria the guy have the same error p0238 boost sensor high voltage and he sade after changing the valve regulator(EVRV) which he found at ebay on auction 40euro price the problem gone away.
So i think i shoud go to mechanic to test this EVRV beacause the other meachanic told me the turbo has gone away, and i need to buy new turbo..
Ico is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25th June 2013, 08:02   #36 (permalink)
 
Join Date: 24th June 2013
Location: dundee, uk GB
Posts: 2
Thanks given: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Cool HONDA CIVIC - limp mode/turbo problem

Limp mode/turbo replacement problem.

I have a Honda civic diesel, CTDi, 1.6, 2005, and it developed, from what I see and hear a common problem of limp mode. Reading all the posts here and other forums, most people had problems with this and also paid a lot of money replacing the expensive turbo unit - unnecessarily. I did the same. My garage replaced the turbo, EGR valve, some tubing connected to turbo, EVRV valve and finally VSV valve before the problem was cured. it turned out to be the VSV valve at the end of all this saga. It took one month, and several trips to garage and 1300 to sort this. I thought I write this post to let poeple know some important facts. I don't usually do this. This is a common problem with Honda cars of 2003 - 2008, especially diesel ones and Honda is not aware or dont want to do anything about it. My Honda apparently has Isuzu engine when Honda was designing this car they did not have their own diesel engine. Isuzu are very bad (expensive) design diesel engines.

Honda (and other garages for that matter) will always recommend replacing the turbo. But do not do that as the first option. I found out, to my cost that the limp mode could be due VSV, EVRV or EGR valve (in increasing cost order). VSV about 36, EVRV about 130 and EGR 200 (all not including VAT and fitting). So always start with the cheapest component.

The problem is not the car and not the diagnostic systems. It is the garages who have no real "mechanic" anymore. Most garages, including the dealership garages have "fitters" not mechanic. They connect the computer to the car and if the computer said "put your right hand over your head and do a highland fling and the problem will go away" - THEY WILL do EXACTLY AS THE COMPUTER TELLS THEM. They do not think AT ALL; and why should they, they are paying the bill, you do. So what if the diagnostics are wrong. They will keep changing parts until they get the right one, and you will pay for the privilege. All these codes and error diagnostics were designed assuming that a MECHANIC will use common sense sorting the problems. Error codes are NOT solutions they are SUGGESTIONS to the possible cause. Unfortunately the "fitters" take them as gospel. So here are some advice from someone who dealt with the dealership garages.

1. if you have an intermittent fault DO NOT TAKE IT TO THE GARAGE FOR "TEST". they will do the diagnostics and chances are if it is intermittent fault, they will not find anything and YOU will pay anything from 60 - 90 for the privilege and you will be told there is nothing wrong with the car. AND dont be fooled when they say "we took the car for a test drive and everything was fine". Most garages idea of test drive, is a drive around the block which IS NOT TEST DRIVE. They will not see the problem unless it is dangling, obviously broken, makes a hell of a noise or on fire!

2. If you are told to change an expensive part like Turbo - ALWAYS take a second advice. with a thing like turbo, take it to turbo specialist and see what they say. they certainly will know more about the turbo than your average useless "fitters" in the dealership garages.

3. If you are told that the problem could be one of three different components, then before you agree the repair make sure you ask "Who will be liable for the component price and labor if it happens to be the wrong one" - if they are not committing themselves to accept any liability and they want to gamble with your money - WALK away. They just dont know what they are doing.

4. Make sure you get everything, and most importantly the diagnosis and advice for repair IN WRITING before you commit yourself. That way if things go wrong you have written proof that it was what they suggested and then they cant deny it. this really saved me.

In brief, dont take their word for it, question everything; dealership garages are NOT EXPERTS in the brand, they just look cleaner, nicer and they wear a tie.

Finally remember, there is no such thing as a good or a bad car. All cars are good and ALL have their own weaknesses and faults, and they all break down. The difference becomes apparent when they go wrong how you are treated by the garage. I was lucky, my local garage is a family run business, he admitted they made a mistake and I got most of my money back. But reading some of these posts, quite a lot of people got rough treatment. NO point complaining to the head office blah blah UK, because the have nothing to do with dealership and they always sit on the fence and the standard reply is "the local garage should sort the problem". You would think they care about their brand name - THEY DONT. As long as it sells, they do not give a damn about the 10% or so of customers are dissatisfied.

So enjoy your Honda (or whatever other headaches you drive)

Last edited by badhonda; 25th June 2013 at 14:23. Reason: spelling mistake
badhonda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26th June 2013, 11:20   #37 (permalink)
 
Join Date: 26th June 2013
Location: Bratislava, SK SK
Posts: 1
Thanks given: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Hi,
recently on my civic 2002 1.7 cdti (ep4) MIL light turned on and since then occasionally I experience limp mode. I'm researching all the possibilities before I decide to go to original Honda repair shop. This forum has been the most helpful and I would just need if someone can point on the picture here http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17S5S01&blo ck_02=E__4500&block_03=9561 where are exactly located VSV, EVRV and ERG valves? I want to print it and take it to my friend’s repair shop for a look.
Also if you can suggest some affordable OBD2 code reader that would work with this car as the one friend has in his shop is not showing any error codes.


Thanks.
baki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4th July 2013, 07:41   #38 (permalink)
 
Join Date: 24th June 2013
Location: dundee, uk GB
Posts: 2
Thanks given: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: (0)
it is difficult to find pictures of these things, you usually get the kind of pictures that you found, only a mechanic can say which one it is.
your best bet would be to get a Hainz manual and look there. They are usually a lot clearer EGR valve is nearest to turbo unit - I think.

Last edited by badhonda; 4th July 2013 at 07:49.
badhonda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14th July 2013, 22:45   #39 (permalink)
 
Join Date: 11th January 2012
Location: Hereford UK GB
Posts: 3
Thanks given: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Turbo Boost Problem

Thanks for all your replies on here. We have had trouble with our 2002 Civic for some time with various codes coming up. We bought it from an auction, and it came with problems stalling, and throwing CEL, going into limp mode etc. the last code suggested turbo problem. Hubby decided to take the turbo off and have a look and maybe get a re manufactured one. When he looked there was a stray piece of metal which looked like a clip from the air filter inside the turbo. The vanes had all been worn away, and the piece of metal had lodged in the compressor wheel and jammed the turbo. Once the stray metal was removed the turbo spun freely. So I bought a rebuild kit and compressor wheel for just over 100 and he set to and rebuilt it. He put it all back together, and off down the road he went. The CEL came on again, and the code P1237 again. After reading your info here, he removed the EVRV and another vacuum thingy, (can't remember what it's called) and checked them with a battery. It was only after looking at one of your postings on here of the Lings exploded diagram, that he realised that there should have been a vacuum pipe between the two valves. He connected one and hey Presto! No CEL and driving well. Thanks to you all for your input
Juney is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29th May 2014, 14:14   #40 (permalink)
 
Join Date: 28th May 2014
Location: Dublin LT
Posts: 3
Thanks given: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: (0)
which part of EGR should be cleaned? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwn...it?usp=sharing and https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwn...it?usp=sharing
gedis is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

  Civinfo > 8th Generation Euro Honda Civic > Engines and Transmission

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On


LinkBacks (?)
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.civinfo.com/forum/engines-transmission/42658-civic-cdti-s-2002-turbo-sensor-isues.html
Posted By For Type Date
Problem with Vauxhall 1.7 CTDi diesel? Singletrack Forum This thread Refback 9th May 2014 12:01
Honda klubas This thread Refback 15th April 2014 09:40
?????? ?? ????? 7 ????????? - ???????? 7 - ?????????? ??????? - Hondabg.com ?????? - ???????? 7 This thread Refback 10th March 2014 10:30
?????? ?? ????? 7 ????????? - Hondabg.com ?????? - ???????? 18 This thread Refback 24th November 2013 23:15
?????? ?? ????? 7 ????????? - Hondabg.com ?????? - ???????? 19,4 This thread Refback 1st February 2013 22:15
?????? ?? ????? 7 ????????? - Hondabg.com ?????? - ???????? 19 This thread Refback 24th December 2012 18:08
?????? ?? ????? 1,7ctdi - Hondabg.com ?????? - ???????? 19 This thread Refback 28th November 2011 01:34

Similar Threads for: Civic CDTI S 2002 Turbo/Sensor Isues
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Civic Type-R in NHB, FSH, 4,700 ono! (Nov 2002) BlockEight Classifieds archive 7 22nd April 2010 20:36
2002 civic 1.7 ctdi very low mpg, help! gao95800 Previous Civics 0 16th September 2009 03:03
For Sale 2002 HONDA CIVIC 1.4S VISION dave0147 Classifieds archive 0 24th August 2009 19:08
No heating 2002 civic ekokuk Previous Civics 11 22nd December 2008 13:30
Civic Type R 2002 carlos1967 Classifieds archive 0 28th September 2008 16:53


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 22:11.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
vB.Sponsors
Site owned by Jayne Potts. See also Jaginfo Jaguar XF Forum

Hosting by Vidahost

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92