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FN2 mod list and recommended Mods :D

13K views 38 replies 10 participants last post by  ufoblue 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all, after a long think, I've finally made a decision to get a GT-R over the new Type R in a few months. But I am keeping my FN2 as its not worth selling and VTEC is very additive so I know I will miss it a lot !
So I thought I would internally Mod my FN2 and have some fun with it. At the moment I got the basic following mods:

Martelius Exhaust

HKS RSK RACING SUCTION INTAKE KIT WITH HEATSHIELD

Flashpro - Group N Map


My next mods to get are the following:

TEGIWA EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEADER

SKUNK2 TUNER SERIES DROP IN CAMSHAFTS DIC CAMS

SKUNK2 PRO SERIES INTAKE MANIFOLD BLACK


Can anyone recommend anything else? And what do you think of my next choice of mods

P.S.


I will also be going to EUROSPEC to get a proper remap Soon

:D
 
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#2 ·
Ear plugs?

Bin the exhaust and get a 3'

Fd2 oil pump in at the same time as the cams.

Bin the hks. Go for skunk2 or hybrid racing intake

Could port the head and change the valves then fit a thin head gasket to try raise compression

Look at injector duty cycle to see if they need uprating and throttle body sizing.

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#3 · (Edited)
I love it loud so want to keep my Martelius Exhaust.

I did look at the Skunk intake but from what I can see, it requires mod to fit it in. I like to stick with my HKS, as it sounds good

Whats the best cam I can get on tegiwaimports website that will directly fit in

I already got the fd2 fuel pump in my basket :D
 
#6 ·
HKS intake is more than adequate. I got 260 bhp and 180 ftlb on one with other supporting mods and TDi-north cams.

Tegiwa header and Martelius will be very very loud but definitely not restrictive. 3" exhaust would be better, but as above I got 260 on a 2.5 inch.

TDi-north cams have been proven to consistently perform better than most other drop in cams. I had Skunk2 stage 1s before TDi's and the Skunk2s needed uprated valve springs and an uprated tensioner and really adjustable cam gear to dial them in, but TDi-north's performed better by 12bhp at peak.

It's all in my Alabaster Silver FN2 thread. Link should be in my sig.
 
#14 ·
Same here, sounds good but way too in your face and lasted 2 weeks on mine.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Will be sorting out the TDI drop in cams soon. I had a read about them, and I noticed you got good gains from them, compared to the skunk cams :smile3:

Where did you get the FD2 Throttle body? I have only seen it on this one UK site - Torque Developments International | Experts in Performance Tuning and Racing

I also been looking at the MFACTORY LSD, racepack Stage 1 and looking for a clutch upgrade, whilst I'm doing the LSD. Maybe I should go with stage 1? As I do like the OEM clutch but would like some more power/torque... Hmmm

Cheers
 
#22 ·
That's not the same throttle body and comes from a different generation of engine, running different ECUs with different TB drivers.

The FD2 TB is designed for the K20 ECU and is the one I'd go for, for OEM reliability and to protect your ECU from pushing a TB driver that it wasn't intended to.

I got my last FD2 TB from Australia, but they come up on eBay and facebook every now and then, just keep an eye open.

OEM clutch is fine unless you are planning on dragging the car. At most as an upgrade I would consider would be an Exedy Organic clutch but use a genuine Honda clutch release bearing as others soon start to grumble. I went through 5 clutches in 3 years. 1 OEM that I thought needed upgrading, 2 failures and one that was far too heavy for a road car and the one I ended up with, the Exedy Organic.

The Mfactory LSD will be a fantastic addition to the car. Don't think about the money just do it! In increases the fun factor massively and just makes the car so much more of a joy when pressing on in the bends.

While you are doing that I would strongly advise you to consider the clockwise motion flywheel. I was massively impressed with it.
 
#23 ·
Apologies if my suggestion was incorrect pal.....but with tegiwa selling it with a description like this....(HONDA J35 Throttle Body. This throttle body is an excellent upgrade over the FN2 OEM throttle body. It features 2mm bigger (over OEM) bores, the same as the JDM FD2. It is a direct replacement and will fit both RSP and RRC intake manifolds.) you could be fooled into thinking it will fit.......if it's no good for fn2 how they getting away with sayin all that man?
 
#24 ·
You push, I'll answer.

I had exactly the same discussion as what you are saying with another well known supplier that used the exact same description on their website. It ended in a refund.

Go through the Hondata and US forums, facebook etc. and you find post after post of J35/J37 throttle bodies doing weird and undesirable things to 8th Gen Civic ECUs in Civic SIs.

They come from a Honda V6 engine that uses a different ECU. They aren't designed for a K20 ECU like the FD2 throttle body is.

It's only a matter of time before we start seeing issues over here if we haven't already.

People do use them and I'm sure a vast majority don't have issues, but I'd rather spend a little bit more time and money getting an FD2 throttle body now and having peace of mind than being the one that has to go looking for a new ECU a year or so down the line when the throttle body driver control unit blows.
 
#25 ·
Thanks for the heads up...i have not bought one myself so dont have the experience with them like you... Has anyone ever contacted tegiwa regarding this?

To the OP....id stay away unless you can get the one loxy is recommending then pal as i cannot speak for tegiwa and i know loxy knows his stuff ��
 
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#27 ·
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#29 ·
Personally I would stick with the OEM clutch. Always, always use a genuine Honda release bearing regardless of what clutch you go for.

I've not checked recently, but last time I bought an OEM, Cox were the cheapest if you include the club discount. Tegiwa will be there or there abouts with their discount I'm sure.

I never had any issues in traffic with the Clockwise Motion Flywheel, and that thing is light. It's one of those things though, it's the ideal time to do it when you do the clutch and LSD, but then again, you won't miss it if you never had it.

I liked it. I brought the engine alive on a similar level to how the FD2 balancer shaft delete conversion does IMHO.
 
#36 ·
Hi, I just got back from Holiday. Now I'm back to finish off what I started ! :grin2:

The discount is already sorted as I'm placing a big order ;)

In your previous post you mentioned the exedy stage 1 organic clutch kit . Going back to that, would this clutch benefit me in a drag race? good gains, compared to OEM

I want the car to stay N/A but give me a good heads up. Everything is ordered now, apart from a flywheel, FD2 body and cams. Once I get these, I will be going to Euro-Spec 2000 to have it all fitted and remapped in about a months time

Is there anything else I should add to the list? :smile3:

Oh yeah, could you please post me a link off that flywheel your on about. I was so close in getting RPC /FIDANZA but had to stop myself as I wasn't too sure. Can't seem to find many reviews on them :confused:

Cheers Loxy [smilie=gt-happyup.:
 
#30 ·
I've had a j37 fitted and mapped since February, there are plenty of chargers fitted with them for years with no issues.
I trust what you say but have you got a link to the post mentioned about the driver ecu issue as I did'nt come across it with the vast resurch I did Before purchase and can't find anything on it now.;)
 
#31 ·
#33 ·
I'm pretty sure it's symptomatic, you start to feel the throttle reacting oddly. The Hondata thread explains it IIRC.
 
#35 ·
Sori to go slightly off topic but I saw you were talking mods an I jus had a power run done today so wanted to share... A couple of very dodgy vid clips that I'm recording from my laptop screen Coz they still on the camera...

https://vimeo.com/165366768

An the next one was taken on my phone during the same power run... Figure on the screen shows 404whp but the software then adjusts it because of atmospheric pressure an air quality an other stuff I didn't really get but I was buzzin seeing the numbers and willing it to hit 400!
Shows torque on the left of the screen and whp on the right..

https://vimeo.com/165367241

He says 388 but it was 388.7 so I'm takin that as 389 lol

Props to Alex at TTS performance for workin on the car today!





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#38 · (Edited)
Ask Eurospec if they can get you the flywheel, as they should know who Clockwise Motion are. If not Grinspeed can get them, they might even have them on the shelf.

Exedy stage 1 is rated for slightly higher torque. Slightly more resilient than a plain OEM.

I wouldn't recommend anything more than this really, stick with OEM or Organic Stage 1. If you are regularly drag racing you will need a very heavy duty clutch, however that clutch would be terrible for daily driving. It's a trade off between what you use the car for most.
 
#39 ·
thanks for the info Loxy. I've gone with a OEM Clutch and I will order a clockwise motion from grinspeed this week. I will give a update here soon, when I get the car done and let you know how its gone. Few people said I should just fit a bolt on supercharger but not to sure yet. Sounds like a good idea though
 
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