![]() |
|
||
| This thread is about: [HOW TO] Install non OEM parking sensors - and save £250!!!!, it's in How To at the Honda Civic forum Civinfo; Well finally fitted them, only took about 3-4 hours BUT never checked them before putting all the trim back. DIDN'T WORK. Stripped it back (easier ... | ||
| Help Search Stickers Surveys Wiki Forum |
|
|
|||||||
|
|
LinkBack (1) | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#101 (permalink) |
|
Valve Cap
Join Date: 6th September 2007
Location: Fife
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Well finally fitted them, only took about 3-4 hours BUT never checked them before putting all the trim back.
DIDN'T WORK. Stripped it back (easier second time) Eventually found out there were 2 BROWN wires. One going to rear of car and one going into the tailgate. IDIOT.... Fixed now and all sensors work perfectly. I have Galaxy grey Civic and chose £17.50 sensors in GREY colour. Match is OK but if had the chance over again , I would spray the black ones as the gray is darker than the body colour. But for the price....second to none. Cheers Ricky |
|
|
|
|
|
#102 (permalink) | |
|
Supporter
Locking Wheelnut
Join Date: 15th August 2007
Location: Scotland
Posts: 140
Thanks: 2
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#103 (permalink) | |
|
Super Moderator
Civinfo guru
Join Date: 3rd June 2007
Location: Sweden
Posts: 4,859
Thanks: 3
Thanked 27 Times in 24 Posts
|
Quote:
You can always make a Wiki entry. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#104 (permalink) |
|
Valve Cap
Join Date: 29th January 2008
Location: birmingham uk
Posts: 12
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
hi. just fitted after market parking sensors today.
managed to do this without removing the bumper. this is how idid it. first I drilled acurately into the bumper the holes for the sensors to go into. underneath the bumper I undid the studs, then I put the middle two sensors in and dropped the wires down inside the car. I took the grummitts out of the lower tailgate panel then dropped electrical wire through and eased the bumper away at the bottom to allow the electrical and sensor wires to drop through. then I tied the electrical wire to the sensor wire and gently pulled them back through the grummitt holes, taking care not to snag them and damage the contacts. behind the corner sensor holes is the body work of the car on the one corner behind the jack and the other corner behind the gunk suff. I then drilled with a 3/8 th metal drill through the sensor holes and pushed the wiring through into the car .the wiring was easily routed round the back. I sealed with silicon the corner holes and rubber grummitts the centre holes. this was certainly better then taking the bumper off and only took me half hour. I hope this info helps anyone who is dreading taking the bumper off (I was) the sensors I used are cisbo and they are working as well as on my MGZT factory fitted ones. |
|
|
|
|
|
#105 (permalink) |
|
Supporter
Triangular Exhaust
Join Date: 31st May 2006
Location: Stockport
Posts: 237
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
I have just purchased some parking sensors with an LCD display. They are CISBO ones and the display is a half moon shape, which, when painted black, will match the curves of the dash, sort of!
The decision now is where to put the display! There are a couple of obvious places, over the middle air vents or above the sat nav display, but then I have to deal with the cable. It has also been suggested that it might go in the cubby behind the gear lever, but really not sure about there. Has anyone any experience of the LCD display ones and advice to offer as to where to put the display? Thanks Simon |
|
|
|
|
|
#106 (permalink) | |
|
Supporter
Magic Rear Seat
Join Date: 29th May 2006
Location: Manchester, UK
Posts: 803
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
Quote:
Also did you paint them? I can't find a reference to being able too. Last edited by generationgav; 16th June 2008 at 16:32. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#108 (permalink) | |
|
Supporter
Triangular Exhaust
Join Date: 23rd October 2006
Location: Rotherham, South Yorkshire
Posts: 373
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Quote:
You can definetly paint them, I put 2 x painted coats and 1 coat of lacquer, they work a treat even after being washed and waxed (even worked with wax in the sensors Joe |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#109 (permalink) |
|
Locking Wheelnut
Join Date: 9th April 2008
Location: Livingston
Posts: 162
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Looking at purchasing these soon and going for the install. I have narrowed down my choices to:
Cisbo kit off ebay (£22.99) : Rear Car Parking Reversing Sensors 4 Sensor Buzzer Kit on eBay, also Reversing Sensors, Security Electrical, Car Accessories, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 06-May-08 23:30:36 BST) The cheapest kit but seems to be the one that most people have. Dolphin kit (£54.99) : Parking Sensors - Trading Direct Dolphin This kit won an award from autoexpress but looking at it, the control box and instruction manuals are exactly the same as the Cisbo kit but rebranded as "Dolphin" Would I be paying double the price for the same thing? Steel Mate PTS400 (£75) : Welcome To The World Of Steelmate Rear Parking Sensors Better build quality but 3 times the price of the Cisbo ones! The box and packaging definitely looks better from the pictures but I wonder if they are better. (also anyone who has these, did they come with the hole saw attachment for fitting) Any opinions much appreciated. I'm leaning towards the Steel Mate due to the better build quality but wonder if it really matters once it's all fitted. Last edited by iamholam; 17th June 2008 at 10:24. Reason: stupid smilies! 9) |
|
|
|
|
|
#110 (permalink) | |
|
Supporter
Valve Cap
Join Date: 13th May 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 6
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Quote:
I'm going to fit these to our other car (Subaru Outback) when I have time, so I must be fairly happy! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#111 (permalink) | |
|
Locking Wheelnut
Join Date: 9th April 2008
Location: Livingston
Posts: 162
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#112 (permalink) | |
|
Supporter
Magic Rear Seat
Join Date: 29th May 2006
Location: Manchester, UK
Posts: 803
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
Quote:
Nobody has had a problem with the Steelmate ones - you could save £40 but there's a small chance they won't work for you. I'm also stuck between the two, budget is tight but will I end up spending twice the time and £120 in the end? |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#113 (permalink) |
|
Supporter
Magic Rear Seat
Join Date: 29th May 2006
Location: Manchester, UK
Posts: 803
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
What sized Grommet did people use?
Any advice from people who've done it on a 3 door of the differences? I was scared of getting the bumper off/drilling holes...but it's now the trim I'm scared about! Last edited by generationgav; 19th June 2008 at 16:58. |
|
|
|
|
|
#114 (permalink) |
|
Locking Wheelnut
Join Date: 9th April 2008
Location: Livingston
Posts: 162
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Hi there
Looking to get this installed tomorrow! Just wondering about this connector that is mentioned in the OEM instructions, I take it that this splits the brown cable and allows the live wire for the parking sensor to be plugged into the harness? The instructions are not clear and I would like as much info as possible before attempting this! Any pics or links to be for this splice connector thingy so I can show the auto shop? I also assume that you will need a metal "loop" soldered onto the earth cable to fit this to the earth anchor point? thanks |
|
|
|
|
|
#115 (permalink) | |
|
Supporter
Valve Cap
Join Date: 13th May 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 6
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Quote:
Once you take the RH inside panel off, you'll see a bundle of cables running up with a blue connector taped to them. You can ignore this connector. If you spread the cables apart, one of them is brown - this is the one you want. If you have a test meter, it shows about 12v when the reversing lights are on and otherwise 0v. I simply connected the reversing sensor power cable to this with a ScotchLok. For the earth lead, there is a convenient screw nearby with several earths already connected to it. I simply added one more by putting the bare cable between the existing tabs. Not exactly correct, but should last as long as the car. I put the beeper under the RH passenger seat, where it's well out of the way but makes a good loud noise. I put the control unit in the spare wheel well, as I've already got a space-saver wheel in there. Take care not to scratch or chip the bumper when you take it off. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#116 (permalink) |
|
Supporter
Magic Rear Seat
Join Date: 29th May 2006
Location: Manchester, UK
Posts: 803
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
Right, you need a "snap lock connector" which connects 2 cables together. Inside it has 2 channels, you put 1 wire through one channel and the 2nd wire through the 2nd channel (even if the 2nd wire is terminated) and then press down VERY hard with pliars.
Be careful to do this well as my 1st attempt lost the connection and I had to redo it. These are VERY easily available from Halford or Maplin. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...ectors&doy=7m7 If you do the job properly then you want to solder the correct metal O loop on the cable, however this is quite large and needs to be the right size. Stripping away a good inch of cable, wrapping it around and holding it under the nut as it's tightened does work. |
|
|
|
|
|
#117 (permalink) | |
|
Locking Wheelnut
Join Date: 9th April 2008
Location: Livingston
Posts: 162
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#118 (permalink) |
|
Locking Wheelnut
Join Date: 9th April 2008
Location: Livingston
Posts: 162
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Need help again!
I am just about the remove the main bit of trim which covers the electrics in the boot (step 17) But have found that the anchor that holds the seat upright has a bit of carpet in between to stop the whole thing being removed. Did you guys cut this out or is there an easier way to have it removed? Please help! My car is in bits! |
|
|
|
|
|
#119 (permalink) |
|
Supporter
Magic Rear Seat
Join Date: 29th May 2006
Location: Manchester, UK
Posts: 803
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
Underneath the anchor my carpet was already cut (to allow the anchor through in the first place)
If you get a screwdriver underneath a small slit in the carpet there you can lift it out. I found this easier than pulling the anchor through. |
|
|
|
|
|
#120 (permalink) |
|
Locking Wheelnut
Join Date: 9th April 2008
Location: Livingston
Posts: 162
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Does anyone have any tips for removing the wheel arch clips? Should i be trying to pull the inner "plug" with pliers or just yanking the bumper?
Thanks |
|
|
|
|
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
|
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.civinfo.com/forum/how/1202-how-install-non-oem-parking-sensors-save-250-a.html
|
||||
| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| Parking sensors on a Civic - Type R Owners Forums | This thread | Refback | 3rd June 2008 20:30 | |
|
|
||||