Changing Rear Pads, how to!

[TheGodsInRed]

Pads fitted used a Laser wind tool which fitted fine. Great guide thanks

[Unknownsoldier]

Originally Posted by Downie

Hi Mate,

Hope you can help, I followed your post but I never turned the engine on when I depressed the brake pedal. Now my hand brake does not function correctly.

Any suggestions on how I can fix this?

Many Thanks paul.

Hi,

Sorry for the late reply, I just turned off the engine (released the handbrake) and depressed the pedal until it became tight (it should do as the servo's off), then turn on the engine and try putting the handbrake on... repeat as necessary. This should if memory serves, tighten up the piston.

Tom

[jplant1981]

i wish i had seen tis post before trying to fit new pads with out the wind back tool

[carldanielsuk]

Originally Posted by Unknownsoldier

Right guys, as this morning was so warm I decided to do my rear pads, and to do a bit of a how to, as I think there is only a how to for the fronts on here.

MAKE SURE THE HANDBRAKE IS OFF AND THE WHEELS CHOCKED WITH CAR IN GEAR!!!!!!

Anyways here we go:

+ my windback tool, which I forgot to put in the piccy. and some cable ties.

I loosened the nuts off. I then jacked up the car using the trolley jack (I did the second lot of pads with the Honda Jack to give a clearer view for the pic's). I put in my axle stand to hold it firm, The axle stand took the weight, but the jack was there too JIC. I kept the second one back for later.....


Here is where I positioned the axle stand:


I then opened the bonnet and opened the brake fluid reservoir, and put some paper towels around it to catch any over flow. I put my brake fluid bottle there too in case it needed a top up later (3 pounds from Honda )


Right now for the messy bits...

Undo and remove all the nuts and remove the wheel, roll it to one side, I took this opportunity to clean the back and to check the tyres wear and for any nails etc.:


Remove the two bolts as per the front fitting instructions, I put them to one side and greased them with copper grease :


Once these are removed you can remove the caliper and using the second axle stand move it back from the pads, Rest the caliper on the axle stand, and it makes it far easier to work on, watch the 'flangey bits' around the disc, they can cut you quite nicely, which I found out today :


I used a cable tie to hold it to the piston behind, this helps when winding back in a moment.
I inserted the windback tool (standard ones are too large, so it needs to be done slowly and very firmly, it's a bugger to start, but if done right should wind back easily):

I then inserted the new pads after greasing the runners, and forced them in to place, they are a very tight fit!!!!! and then greased the backs.


Then simply refit the caliper and remount the bolts:


Then refit the wheel, and greases and refit the nuts, but do not tighten fully! lift the car enough to remove the axle stand then lower slowly and tighten the wheel nuts fully Job Done.

DEPRESS THE BRAKE A FEW TIMES WITH THE ENGINE ON, DO NOT PUT THE HANDBRAKE ON BEFORE DEPRESSING THE BRAKES!!!!!!!!!

Tom

Hi folks - I have information which gives more specific details if you require it - but brilliant post by unknown soldier.



I have this on a Word Document with Honda illustrations but cant seem to upload this document due to restrictions on size - if any one can assist uploading this please email me or if you require this document email me:-

carl@daniels-family.org.uk please put your subject as Honda Pads.

[Fr0d]

Changed my rear pads last week, but I have just discovered i was foolish enough not to wind back the piston to a position so the small raised pin on the back of the new pads fits between the slots of the piston.

Will i need to go through at the rigmarole of redoing it? I have driven the car for a week with no issues. Even tried forceful braking to get the ABS to reseat the pads correctly but i have no idea if they are or not, without stripping everything down again. Any Ideas?

Fr0d

[Drejc]

Thank you , it made things alot easyer .

[kolozsvarizsolt]

Thanks for this 'how to'.

What about hand brake bowden cable loosing?

I had to do that for disconnecting cable. Without that I had not been able to take off caliper from disc.

[Unknownsoldier]

Originally Posted by kolozsvarizsolt

Thanks for this 'how to'.

What about hand brake bowden cable loosing?

I had to do that for disconnecting cable. Without that I had not been able to take off caliper from disc.

Never had to loosen anything else mate. sorry.

[Mad4amanda]

Great write up Tom did ours today didnt take long , bought a wind back tool off ebay that looks like it will fit all sorts for £23 .
I did wonder if I should have used thread lock on the bolts into the sliders?
Also are there any torque settings lists anywhere I just did them tight?

[Drejc]

Can anybody help me, im changein my rear disc but i dont know how to take them off.

[coste1l]

http://www.civinfo.com/forum/wheels-...tuff-pads.html

[crowmar kirkliss]

Changed pads and disks tonight. Nice one

peice of pisssssssss

[Unknownsoldier]

Originally Posted by Mad4amanda

Great write up Tom did ours today didnt take long , bought a wind back tool off ebay that looks like it will fit all sorts for £23 .
I did wonder if I should have used thread lock on the bolts into the sliders?
Also are there any torque settings lists anywhere I just did them tight?

Hey sorry for the late reply, I certainly wouldn't use threadlocker, and I just do them as tight as I can and use copper slip on the bolts. then just check them next time you get a spare minute

Tom

[andy l]

Hi.. If it helps anyone I've just replaced my rear discs and pads.. You will need a caliper wind back tool.. Got this from Machine Mart and does the job a treat..

Right-Handed Brake Piston Wind back Tool


£9.98 ex.VAT
£11.98 inc.VAT
Product Code: 040817916

[Unknownsoldier]

Nice one, my tool was about the same price, and has seen me through now 4 years of pad changings on different cars

Tom