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This thread is about: Front speakers - replacement with Infinity Ref 6510CS, it's in How To at the Honda Civic forum Civinfo; Are the infinity Kappa the same speakers but without the separate tweeters? Would they use the same Astra speaker mounts? The rears are deffinately next ...

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Old 27th July 2006, 22:20   #61 (permalink)
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Are the infinity Kappa the same speakers but without the separate tweeters? Would they use the same Astra speaker mounts? The rears are deffinately next on my list!
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Old 27th July 2006, 22:28   #62 (permalink)
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I would beware of using the 'higher spec' Kappas.

They have a lower impedence, which I believe means that you would need more power to drive them. They would really be designed for using with a high power amplifier system. You could be in a position where the front speakers were fgar louder than the rears for any given volume.

I would think that these below would be good in the rear doors, as they will also give you the high frequency of a 2 way speaker.


EDIT: cut and paste the whole url -(does anyone know why the whole string will not highlight???? )

http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/product.aspx?ProdId='REF6012SI'&Ser=REF&Cat=MEL



Edit by Pottsy 27/7 23:06 Forum software gets confused! Use this: http://tinyurl.com/npn8u
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Old 29th July 2006, 19:30   #63 (permalink)
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adaptor rings

This may sound stupid but what do the adaptor rings do,if it is to adapt the speaker to suit the door hole size why not just get the correct size speaker.
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Old 29th July 2006, 21:51   #64 (permalink)
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If u look at the speaker pics u will see they are surrounded by 1" wide plastic case. The adaptor is to bring the new speaker out the same distance from the door as the originals so they don't interfere with anything behind in the door like the window when its down. And the actual holes in the door are not big enough to house a speaker just enough for the magnet.
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Old 29th July 2006, 23:45   #65 (permalink)
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I don't think that the difference between the magnets on the Infinity speaker and the standard Honda speaker has been shown before, well here is a photo -

Click the image to open in full size.

Instead of gluing in the tweeters I used the supplied swivel mounting, it just needed a the existing hole in the mounting plate openning up a little.

From the back

Click the image to open in full size.

And from the front.

Click the image to open in full size.

(The red tape is just to signify the positive lead, the soldered joints are insulated with 'shrink' sleeve)

I also used some heavy duty velcro to fix the crossovers to the inside of the doors

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 3rd August 2006, 00:14   #66 (permalink)
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Just to note; I mentioned that I was quite dissapointed with the bass....well they seemed to have settled themselves in and the sound quality is MUCH better than when they were first installed now; didn't even realised speakers did this, but it seems that they do.
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Old 4th August 2006, 20:22   #67 (permalink)
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I have compleated the speaker upgrade to 6510 ,but am unsure about the polarity of the cables that come from the in car player. Both doors have 2 different pairs of colour coded cable,I would like to know which is which (pos/neg).The original honda speakers have both the same size speaker tabs so polarity is unsure.Hope you can help?
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Old 4th August 2006, 20:25   #68 (permalink)
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On the old woofer, +ve is the right hand connection as you look at the back of the speaker (tested with a 1.5v battery!)
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Old 4th August 2006, 21:07   #69 (permalink)
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Thanks for that but do you know the cable colours for pos/neg as i had cut the connectors off
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Old 4th August 2006, 21:19   #70 (permalink)
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Oh I see - on the passenger side dark blue is -ve, light blue is +ve. But I haven't got a photo of the drivers side.
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Old 4th August 2006, 23:38   #71 (permalink)
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i really need to do this upgrade - ive got my trim for the tweeters now
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Old 5th August 2006, 15:10   #72 (permalink)
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Thankyou for the left hand side wiring details any idea how i workout the drivers side
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Old 5th August 2006, 15:25   #73 (permalink)
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Have you still got the cut-off connectors (so you can see the remains of the wires going in)?
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Old 5th August 2006, 15:47   #74 (permalink)
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No i binned them
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Old 6th August 2006, 13:56   #75 (permalink)
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I have upgraded my front speakers to 6510, could anyone recommend a rear set of speaker upgrades
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Old 10th August 2006, 13:37   #76 (permalink)
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Just got My front Alpine Type R SPE-17LP speakers, and they even came with the Honda fitting pod:O, Very happy about this

Now Just gotta fit them,

Does anyone know that if I will have enough space to fit the grill? and does the plastic pod fit into the door perfectly? Or do I have to cut some material away

One last thing, its the wireing, If Im correct the crappy honda speakers has the phone socket type conection, and these speaker's has 2 little metal plate, how would I go about this?

Quick reply will be much appriciated

Regards Dan

Help!!
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Old 10th August 2006, 13:59   #77 (permalink)
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The only definitive way to see if they'll fit is to pop the door panel off and give it a go! We can't really tell without seeing your plastic pod.

I poked wires into the original Honda speaker connector, and they went to the crossover.

sp16.jpg

I then soldered directly to the speaker, but you could solder connectors if you wanted to.

sp15.jpg

If you can, try and take pics to help others with your type of speaker (just like I did with the Infinities).
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Old 10th August 2006, 19:31   #78 (permalink)
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Thank's for your help (Y)!

I've fitted them now, it's easier then I thought. I have to cut some material of the door, to get the Alpine pod inplace, then removed the speaker wire out of that plastic clip, then just directly plugged into the new speakers. Screwed the new speakers inplace put the door panel back on, then Voiler! Done and dusted

Superior sound, a hell of alot better then those Honda Junk speakers.
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Old 18th August 2006, 16:45   #79 (permalink)
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Pottsy

I noticed you mentioned that you tested which wire was positive with a 1.5v battery, how did you do this?
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Old 18th August 2006, 17:18   #80 (permalink)
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When the positive of a preferably nearly flat 1.5v volt battery is very quickly applied to the positive connection on a speaker (by wizzing the wire for a fraction of a second on the speaker terminal), the cone will move outwards.

HTH
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