Sound isolation - Page 3

Rasmus · 29th January 2008, 10:50

Hi,
Dynamat essentially seems to be the same thing as vibroplast - and I suspect it works out pretty well (better than usual bitumen without the foil lining).
Anyhow, as I have a new and better Civic now, I will probably be doing this all over again, which means more pics and hopefully better results

danieldenham · 1st February 2008, 22:50

Having posted a similar tread the this one on an Impreza website (my last car) I've been looking at this tread with interest after swapping the Subaru for a Civic this week.

In the past I've used NoiseKiller (Noisekiller UK - Car Soundproofing - Vehicle, Industrial, and Marine Sound Proofing) and their barrier mat is excellent. However recently, I have found a cheaper (per sqft) and possibly better alternative:

Second Skin Audio. The manufacturers offer great advice on the three different speps to audio bliss!: http://www.secondskinaudio.com/store.php?category=70

The UK distributors are based in Oxford and their partner company (Oxford Car Audio) have been honest help over the years with a number of audio installations I have done: Car Audio Direct - Second Skin Damplifier Bulk Kit - Accessory

I've got £200 worth arriving tomorrow (2x Damplifier bulk pack & 4x Overkill v2) and so that's my weekend project sorted! (As a note, the Pro version of the Damplifier & Overkill is just twice as thick).

I'll post a new thread when I'm done.

danieldenham · 3rd February 2008, 23:14

Ramus, you'll like this:

Sound Deadener Showdown

Dan

Andiww · 14th March 2008, 23:33

Hi there! Before I change my speakrs I will surely isolate the doors. But does it make sense to put the isolation material on the internal side of the plastic panels? Shouldnt we put the bitumen on the metal parts of the doors? Or maybe there is no difference....?

civicfan · 15th March 2008, 11:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andiww

Hi there! Before I change my speakrs I will surely isolate the doors. But does it make sense to put the isolation material on the internal side of the plastic panels? Shouldnt we put the bitumen on the metal parts of the doors? Or maybe there is no difference....?

I guess it would be best to do both - just take care not to obstruct the drainage holes or the windows - I would do the deadening first and then look again whether or not to change the speakers, the old ones might be quite good enough with proper soundproofing in place

damianscott71 · 15th March 2008, 11:49

Soundproof both, and replace the speakers too. The honda supplied ones are pants. I also ran some speaker foam around the egde of the door trim to make a better seal and thus prevent (or minimise) bass leakage.

Because I added the seal about a year after I did the speakers, I could tell that there was a noticable improvement in the bass response with the foam. A few people have complained about the lack of bass from the infinity speakers. You can buy 10m reels of the foam strip from CPC, can't remember the part number though. It's really cheap, only a few quid.

Rasmus · 15th March 2008, 15:14

Yes, it makes sense to put isolation materials on both the plastic and the metal. The sound deadening material has damping effect on all surfaces, so it will reduce rattles that the plastic makes (especially if you have a subwoofer or listen to loud music). And ofcourse - if you are thinking of changing speakers as well then do all at once - and don't try to save on the materials - it is really not worth it. Regular bitumen (which needs heating before sticking) is heavy, more trouble and the results aren't in fact as good as with special components such as Vibroplast, Bimast etc. Some people have even tried roof fixing bitumen and I really can not see why - the proper materials you need to do all four doors on a Civic cost about 50-100 euros, while the car itself costs around 18'000 euros.

Andiww · 15th March 2008, 17:25

Thanks for your help! Now I don't have much spare time but will do this in not far future. I'll post some pics. One more thing... Before I put the sound isolation, should I remove the original one that honda gives as standard?

Rasmus · 13th April 2008, 09:55

Right, since my last car was destroyed by a punk kid in a BMW, I now have a new one, which also needed some work done about the noise. I was a lot smarter now, I used the right materials (vibroplast) from the beginning and not wasting any time.
Here are some photos.
Doors:
Picasa Web Albums - Rasmus - Civic
Picasa Web Albums - Rasmus - Civic
Rear arches:
Picasa Web Albums - Rasmus - Civic
Picasa Web Albums - Rasmus - Civic
This time I did not change the speakers, but installed a FLI 10" active subwoofer instead to beef up the system. Its good enough and the car is nearly ready - just need to figure out how and where to install a satnav and parking sensors so my gf doesn't reverse into anything.

DynoFK2 · 23rd April 2008, 18:11

Hi,

last time I got really scared by a big drop of water falling on my roof. First I thought that it was something massive, like a chestnut, but there was no tree or similar and it did rain quite hard some minutes before. Since then, it reoccured several times when waiting under the edge of a bridge or similar.
So I was wondering if it would be complicated to remove the ceiling to put some sound isolation behind it? I'm especially concerned about plastic parts that could easily break or the window airbags...

Greetings,
DynoFK2

Rasmus · 28th April 2008, 11:03

Yes, the roof needs some sound deadening materials too - it acts like a diffuser and magnifies the noise that raindrops make and also wind noise at higher speeds.
I have not yet looked into removing the roof panels, but my friend from a Honda service says that to do that you have to remove quite a lot of trim...
If anyone manages to do the roof as well, please be so kind to take a few photos.

13th April 2008, 09:55	#49 (permalink)
Rasmus Valve Cap Join Date: 10th February 2007 Location: Tallinn, Estonia Posts: 25 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts iTrader: (0)	Right, since my last car was destroyed by a punk kid in a BMW, I now have a new one, which also needed some work done about the noise. I was a lot smarter now, I used the right materials (vibroplast) from the beginning and not wasting any time. Here are some photos. Doors: Picasa Web Albums - Rasmus - Civic Picasa Web Albums - Rasmus - Civic Rear arches: Picasa Web Albums - Rasmus - Civic Picasa Web Albums - Rasmus - Civic This time I did not change the speakers, but installed a FLI 10" active subwoofer instead to beef up the system. Its good enough and the car is nearly ready - just need to figure out how and where to install a satnav and parking sensors so my gf doesn't reverse into anything. Last edited by Rasmus; 13th April 2008 at 10:01.

23rd April 2008, 18:11	#50 (permalink)
DynoFK2 Valve Cap Join Date: 17th February 2008 Location: Germany Posts: 16 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	Sound isolating the roof? Hi, last time I got really scared by a big drop of water falling on my roof. First I thought that it was something massive, like a chestnut, but there was no tree or similar and it did rain quite hard some minutes before. Since then, it reoccured several times when waiting under the edge of a bridge or similar. So I was wondering if it would be complicated to remove the ceiling to put some sound isolation behind it? I'm especially concerned about plastic parts that could easily break or the window airbags... Greetings, DynoFK2

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This thread is about: Sound isolation, it's in How To at the Honda Civic forum Civinfo; Hi, Dynamat essentially seems to be the same thing as vibroplast - and I suspect it works out pretty well (better than usual bitumen without ...

29th January 2008, 10:50	#41 (permalink)
Rasmus Valve Cap Join Date: 10th February 2007 Location: Tallinn, Estonia Posts: 25 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts iTrader: (0)	Hi, Dynamat essentially seems to be the same thing as vibroplast - and I suspect it works out pretty well (better than usual bitumen without the foil lining). Anyhow, as I have a new and better Civic now, I will probably be doing this all over again, which means more pics and hopefully better results

1st February 2008, 22:50	#42 (permalink)
danieldenham Supporter Valve Cap Join Date: 20th January 2008 Location: South Oxfordshire Posts: 6 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	Having posted a similar tread the this one on an Impreza website (my last car) I've been looking at this tread with interest after swapping the Subaru for a Civic this week. In the past I've used NoiseKiller (Noisekiller UK - Car Soundproofing - Vehicle, Industrial, and Marine Sound Proofing) and their barrier mat is excellent. However recently, I have found a cheaper (per sqft) and possibly better alternative: Second Skin Audio. The manufacturers offer great advice on the three different speps to audio bliss!: http://www.secondskinaudio.com/store.php?category=70 The UK distributors are based in Oxford and their partner company (Oxford Car Audio) have been honest help over the years with a number of audio installations I have done: Car Audio Direct - Second Skin Damplifier Bulk Kit - Accessory I've got £200 worth arriving tomorrow (2x Damplifier bulk pack & 4x Overkill v2) and so that's my weekend project sorted! (As a note, the Pro version of the Damplifier & Overkill is just twice as thick). I'll post a new thread when I'm done.

3rd February 2008, 23:14	#43 (permalink)
danieldenham Supporter Valve Cap Join Date: 20th January 2008 Location: South Oxfordshire Posts: 6 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	Ramus, you'll like this: Sound Deadener Showdown Dan

14th March 2008, 23:33	#44 (permalink)
Andiww Locking Wheelnut Join Date: 5th March 2008 Location: Poznan, Poland Posts: 120 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	Hi there! Before I change my speakrs I will surely isolate the doors. But does it make sense to put the isolation material on the internal side of the plastic panels? Shouldnt we put the bitumen on the metal parts of the doors? Or maybe there is no difference....?

15th March 2008, 11:49	#46 (permalink)
damianscott71 Diesel Demon Triangular Exhaust Join Date: 1st July 2006 Location: Kempston, Bedfordshire Posts: 473 Thanks: 2 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts iTrader: (0)	Soundproof both, and replace the speakers too. The honda supplied ones are pants. I also ran some speaker foam around the egde of the door trim to make a better seal and thus prevent (or minimise) bass leakage. Because I added the seal about a year after I did the speakers, I could tell that there was a noticable improvement in the bass response with the foam. A few people have complained about the lack of bass from the infinity speakers. You can buy 10m reels of the foam strip from CPC, can't remember the part number though. It's really cheap, only a few quid.

15th March 2008, 15:14	#47 (permalink)
Rasmus Valve Cap Join Date: 10th February 2007 Location: Tallinn, Estonia Posts: 25 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts iTrader: (0)	Yes, it makes sense to put isolation materials on both the plastic and the metal. The sound deadening material has damping effect on all surfaces, so it will reduce rattles that the plastic makes (especially if you have a subwoofer or listen to loud music). And ofcourse - if you are thinking of changing speakers as well then do all at once - and don't try to save on the materials - it is really not worth it. Regular bitumen (which needs heating before sticking) is heavy, more trouble and the results aren't in fact as good as with special components such as Vibroplast, Bimast etc. Some people have even tried roof fixing bitumen and I really can not see why - the proper materials you need to do all four doors on a Civic cost about 50-100 euros, while the car itself costs around 18'000 euros.

15th March 2008, 17:25	#48 (permalink)
Andiww Locking Wheelnut Join Date: 5th March 2008 Location: Poznan, Poland Posts: 120 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	Thanks for your help! Now I don't have much spare time but will do this in not far future. I'll post some pics. One more thing... Before I put the sound isolation, should I remove the original one that honda gives as standard?

28th April 2008, 11:03	#51 (permalink)
Rasmus Valve Cap Join Date: 10th February 2007 Location: Tallinn, Estonia Posts: 25 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts iTrader: (0)	Yes, the roof needs some sound deadening materials too - it acts like a diffuser and magnifies the noise that raindrops make and also wind noise at higher speeds. I have not yet looked into removing the roof panels, but my friend from a Honda service says that to do that you have to remove quite a lot of trim... If anyone manages to do the roof as well, please be so kind to take a few photos.