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How to use tap into the fuse box (Option Connector)

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#41 ·
I'm not sure that we need No.27 fuse, at least not for all the pins.
I wanted to make my own DRL switch, but the guy from electronic store gave me a wider fuse which couldn't fit in my fuse box, so I tried to test the pins anyway and bottom right pin (the one that has 12V with ignition, 0 otherwise) worked, and top far right (the one that has 12V with sidelights turned on, 0 otherwise) also worked... However, bottom left (12V always) didn't work. I didn't buy another fuse to test the bottom left pin, but for DRL switch, I did not even need it...
 
#42 ·
Useful input - didn't even think to test without the fuse.
I where the 12V constant is fused then!
 
#44 ·
It MUST be available from Honda - as the only time I've seen is is when there is an OEM install (footwell lights etc).

Nevertheless the mini-spade connectors work perfectly.
 
#46 ·
#48 ·
jeremiah said:
Do you perhaps know if the foglight negative does offer a constant ground?

If so, I could wire it all up like this:

View attachment 86220

And I could even use a H11 extension cable to tap into, so I could leave the oem cables alone... :)

Image
Click to expand...
I don't for certain know as I haven't tested but I find it extremely unlikely that it wouldn't have a constant ground. Good idea with the H11 extension too!
 
Discussion starter · #49 · (Edited)
Syx said:
Guys I would like to make a final statement on this following testing.

There are 6 pins in the connector, 4 across the top and two at the bottom. I have used a naming convention as you look at the pins in the open connector space.

Top far left: +12V when reverse gear is engaged, 0V otherwise.

Top left: A fluctuating voltage which ranges +0.3 < V < +0.8 when ignition is switched, 0V otherwise. No idea what this is for.

Top right: +1.3V with sidelights, 0V otherwise. Again, not sure what this is for.

Top far right: +12V with sidelights, 0V otherwise.

Bottom left: +12V constant from battery.

Bottom right: +12V switched with ignition, 0V otherwise.

To find a ground source, there are bolts that hold the pull levers for fuel cap and bonnet behind the plastic trim which you can route a wire to easily enough.
Click to expand...
Just to confirm this also applies to the option connector in the (9g's), but it seems the pin for fluctuating voltage +0.3 < V < +0.8 has been deleted.

9G Fuse Panel

Image



BTW The lower drivers side dash panel simply and easily unclips (no screws) giving good access to fuse box/MCIU #1

The option connector is rotated 90 degrees on the 9G and all pins live without fuse 27 (Something different on new models)



.
 

Attachments

#51 ·
Would I be right in thinking I you wire in the top far left to a double din reverse sensor wire?

That way, you could wire a reverse cam into constant 12v and avoid having to splice into the reverse light at the back.
 
#52 ·
You could do that the issue is.

The camera will be on all the time.
Which will
A: drain the battery
B: confuse the headunit as many will automatically change inputs when they detect a reverse cam signal
 
#53 ·
Starscream said:
Would I be right in thinking I you wire in the top far left to a double din reverse sensor wire?

That way, you could wire a reverse cam into constant 12v and avoid having to splice into the reverse light at the back.
Click to expand...
I think Grayfox is a bit confused by you saying "constant 12v". The top far left on the 8G is +12V only when reverse is engaged, so it's the perfect place to connect the double din reverse sensing wire.
 
#54 ·
I dont know why i was thinking 9th gen.

Could be cause of the constant +12v.

Yes, if you use the +12v when in reverse you can use it for a reverse cam, reverse beeper or extra reverse lights
Image
 
#55 ·
Syx said:
I think Grayfox is a bit confused by you saying "constant 12v". The top far left on the 8G is +12V only when reverse is engaged, so it's the perfect place to connect the double din reverse sensing wire.
Click to expand...
Excellent - thanks

I get what Grayfox is saying. On the inbuilt SatNav, it auto switches with power from the camera.

But Pioneer ones are different. They have a separate lead for sensing reverse signal. It sounds to me like that option socket would be ideal as you could have the camera powered constantly, meaning if you wanted to manually switch it it, you could. But it would also auto switch if you engage reverse.
 
#56 ·
Starscream said:
Excellent - thanks

I get what Grayfox is saying. On the inbuilt SatNav, it auto switches with power from the camera.

But Pioneer ones are different. They have a separate lead for sensing reverse signal. It sounds to me like that option socket would be ideal as you could have the camera powered constantly, meaning if you wanted to manually switch it it, you could. But it would also auto switch if you engage reverse.
Click to expand...
However you sourced the power is up to you - could use the switched +12V (bottom right) for that and then it would be possible to manually select it.
Then connect your HU sense wire to the reverse pin (top far left) and it would auto switch to it.
 
#57 ·
Yup. I was going bottom right for the power to the cam and far top left for the sense lead only.

One last question - If I were do get a dash cam as well in future, could I wire that into the same spade as the cam? There's no issues with sharing power is there?
 
#58 ·
Starscream said:
Yup. I was going bottom right for the power to the cam and far top left for the sense lead only.

One last question - If I were do get a dash cam as well in future, could I wire that into the same spade as the cam? There's no issues with sharing power is there?
Click to expand...
Absolutely no problem with that, just ensure that you check the current requirement (which should be fine but worth checking) so you use the correct rated fuse.
 
#59 ·
Sweet. Both the dash cam and reverse would both be under 1 amp, so can't see a problem.

Actually that reminds me, do you need to source a fuse for the option connecter, or are there spares in the box? Sorry if that's already been explained.
 
#60 ·
There are some spares in the under-bonnet fuse box that you can use, but any mini-blade fuse will fit.
 
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