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#1 (permalink) |
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Banned
![]() Car: 2007 CTR Alabaster
Join Date: 5th March 2011
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Front Springs- to Eibachs.
Basically this is the same as Coste1l's guide which i followed to fit Eibachs.
I just took moar pics so each step would be a bit clearer. I take no responsibility for ANYTHING that occurs as a result of following this guide, that includes but is not limited to- personal injury, damage to property, Alien invasion, Acts of God, Famine, nuclear war, transgenderisation, artificial insemination, erectile dysfunction, nausea, vomiting, cramps, epiphanies, Life changing events, Lycanthropic tendencies, vegetarianism, religion and many other such events. Firstly loosen wheel nuts Jack up car remove wheel open bonnet and take off the plastic doorway and remove rubber mount. loosen the three gold nuts on the strut mount. Loosen but DO NOT undo the centre nut. using needle nose pliers, remove the abs wire holders. undo the brake pipe anchor 12m Undo the two large nuts on the bottom of the strut (breaker bar unless you are Hercules) jack up the hub and remove the top drop link nut, move this out of the way. now remove the two large bolts that you took the nuts off a minute ago. hold the suspension fork and undo the three nuts completely at the top. Lift this out very carefully make sure you leave the jack under the hub so it doesnt flop about Apply spring clamps and remove tension from the spring. undo the top nut dissasemble it all and clean it all up fit a new bump stop into the top mount bearing. blast the bottom with WD40 this cleans everything. apply new spring, reverse procedure to refit everything. basically just do everything in reverse now. job done. |
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Thank You to crowmar kirkliss from 4 Users:
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#3 (permalink) |
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Supporter
![]() Car: 2007 FN2 GT
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Good guide pal.
when your in that far it's easy to swap the ARB bushes too, they are attached to small plates under the lower arms, the difference in new and used after 25k is amazing. cheap easy fix too Stephen |
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Thanks to stoney from:
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#6 (permalink) |
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Clingfilmed
![]() Car: 2008 2.2 CTS GT
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Worth replacing the drop links too as you're half undoing them anyway!
Good guide pal. |
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Thanks to Syx from:
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#8 (permalink) |
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Banned
** Thread starter **
![]() Car: 2007 CTR Alabaster
Join Date: 5th March 2011
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All thanks and credit to Coste1l for the original how to.
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Thanks to crowmar kirkliss from:
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#9 (permalink) |
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無限 Unlimited
![]() Car: 59 Mugenised CTR
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good pictures and detail there CK, nice one!
just to add also that I found jacking up both sides relieved the tension on the anti roll bar and made the drop links come off much easier. |
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Thanks to Laney from:
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#11 (permalink) |
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Clingfilmed
![]() Car: 2008 2.2 CTS GT
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You'll need jack, axle stands, wheel locking nut etc.
For the actual suspension change (after the wheels are off): Rears require a 10mm socket. Very easy. Fronts require: 14mm socket 10mm socket & ring spanner 12mm elbow spanner & socket 6mm allen key (I think it's 6mm) Breaker bar Spring clamps Mole grips And in my case, a blowtorch. I think that covers it. Definitely do this. I put both fronts on axle stands and had much less bother with the drop links as a result. Last edited by Syx; 13th April 2012 at 14:35. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Its a cake, not a biscuit
![]() Car: '57 CTR GT
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Sounded like a DIY job that even I could undertake...until I heard blowtorch!!
Awesome how to though!! |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Clingfilmed
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Didn't come to that but I wasn't far off. ****ing things were a nightmare on the nearside. Offside came off without a problem!
![]() It is straightforward mate, honestly. |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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無限 Unlimited
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Quote:
18mm ring spanner for the top nut plus a 6mm allen key to stop it spinning Wheel off. long nose pliers to pinch the abs clips off 14mm ring spanner plus 5mm allen key for the drop link. Wire brush to brush off any rust on any threads WD40 or penetrating oil 12mm spanner to remove the brakeline bracket. 19mm spanner PLUS another 19mm to hold the other side of the bolt in order to remove the two big bolts holding the strut at the bottom. I don't remember using a 10mm but is always useful to have a selection of spanners anyway. |
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Thanks to Laney from:
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#19 (permalink) |
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無限 Unlimited
![]() Car: 59 Mugenised CTR
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I used the ones in the first photo, that work on a thread but only because they were cheap
If I had access to ones like in the second picture then I'm sure the job would have gone much quicker Last edited by Laney; 13th April 2012 at 21:39. |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Banned
** Thread starter **
![]() Car: 2007 CTR Alabaster
Join Date: 5th March 2011
Location: christchurch
Posts: 2,012
Thanks given: 571
Thanked 223 Times in 201 Posts
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Quote:
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Thanks to crowmar kirkliss from:
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