Squeaky Clutch.

F6HAD · 10th February 2012, 22:13

If it's the same as the Accord, then here's a DIY I just posted on the accord forum. Originally posted by my fellow Admin, Alnug.

Tools required:

A syringe with a small tube attachment...the tube size needed at the end is what you will find in common bic biros

. Or you can use a grease gun or some sort.

A GOOD o-ring compatible grease or a high quality medium/thick silicone grease.

Mine was a silicon based grease i bought from Renault many years ago..was used for ball bearings on plastic runners. It's very good stuff and sticks where it's placed plus is high temp compatible...this is important since clutch fluid makes the clutch master cylinder hot.

DO NOT..I REPEAT DO NOT! use WD40 or similar water displacing/ grease removing fluids (yes wd40 actually removes grease!) read below. ALSO Spray can lithium type greases or silicon sprays are also less effective since they don't have the viscocity.

Some say it lasts for about a month if that and I have no idea how the lithium reacts with the o-rings.

What I'm trying to say is that the grease type used will determine how effective this is.

METHOD
---------
-look up into the footwell and see where the master cylinder rod goes into the clylinder from the clutch pedal. where the rod goes in you'll see a holding washer(??) which prevents the rod from springing all the way out..on this washer there are two notches cut out and these notches are where you will insert the syringe extension tube (see pic where syringe enters)

-push and HOLD the clutch pedal inwards...this is IMPORTANT! not doing so will mean you don't get the grease all the way in.

-push the extension tube of the syringe as far into the holes as you can and squirt in some grease.

-rotate the washer, where your syringe enters round,...yep it actually moves around and squirt in more grease...do this all the way round

-once you've squirted in enough grease try spreading it around the inside of the cylinder+pushing it as far into the cylinder using the syringe extension.

- once that's done work the pedal backwards and forwards to work the grease in. some/ a lot may squirt out of the two notches in the washer but the grease will be where it's needed.

Hopefully that will fix the creak/click for a long while...enjoy the drive!

DO NOT..I REPEAT DO NOT! go squirting WD40 or similar fluids in there...it may work for a day or more but as the fluid evaporates the lubricity (is there such a word!!!??) vanishes and you're back to the beginning. Worse still WD40 removes what grease was in there to begin with and also dries out the rubber/EPDM that makes up the o-rings in the cylinder and you end up being worse off!

You've been warned! you need a thick grease which will stay put.

Munro · 30th June 2012, 17:02

I have had same problem with the squeak when I press the clutch pedal. F6HAD's fix has worked for me.

The CTR has a different clutch pedal arrangement from the Accord as shown in photo below. It is a 5 minute job to grease the piston.

You can reach behind the steering column and behind the clutch pedal bracket (red arrow) to apply some grease from the end of your finger on to the piston (green dotted line).

Staffs Deltic · 30th June 2012, 17:05

Thats good to know. Thanks for posting.

ictd · 18th August 2012, 14:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Munro

I have had same problem with the squeak when I press the clutch pedal. F6HAD's fix has worked for me.

The CTR has a different clutch pedal arrangement from the Accord as shown in photo below. It is a 5 minute job to grease the piston.

You can reach behind the steering column and behind the clutch pedal bracket (red arrow) to apply some grease from the end of your finger on to the piston (green dotted line).

Worked for me but be carefull, I ended up with serveral cuts in my hand because of the sharp metal clutch pedal bracket. Ended up with bloodstaint in my carpet

L44VAT · 20th August 2012, 23:01

will try this

great stuff

adystypes · 25th August 2012, 17:44

Aint worked for me.... anyone want to buy a type s !!!

Dr Wood · 5th September 2012, 22:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Munro

I have had same problem with the squeak when I press the clutch pedal. F6HAD's fix has worked for me.

The CTR has a different clutch pedal arrangement from the Accord as shown in photo below. It is a 5 minute job to grease the piston.

You can reach behind the steering column and behind the clutch pedal bracket (red arrow) to apply some grease from the end of your finger on to the piston (green dotted line).

I can't see the picture here does anyone know how I can view it?

cv65user · 16th January 2013, 14:54

wer can i get the past e from

Spank My Car · 16th January 2013, 15:17

Going to try this tonight. Just to clarify, do I need to follow Munro's and not F6HADS for a CTR?

Grayfox · 17th January 2013, 02:35

F6HADS pictures are for an accord.

Use his guide with Munros pictures

17th January 2013, 02:35	#10 (permalink)
Grayfox Most Active Australian Car: 2010 Black Civic Si FK2 Join Date: 1st February 2012 Location: NSW, Australia Posts: 3,020 Thanks given: 67 Thanked 279 Times in 264 Posts iTrader: (0)	F6HADS pictures are for an accord. Use his guide with Munros pictures Last edited by Grayfox; 17th January 2013 at 02:37.

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10th February 2012, 22:13	#1 (permalink)
F6HAD Car: 2012 F10 BMW 520D Join Date: 23rd January 2010 Location: Halifax, UK Posts: 1,024 Thanks given: 78 Thanked 130 Times in 120 Posts iTrader: (0)	If it's the same as the Accord, then here's a DIY I just posted on the accord forum. Originally posted by my fellow Admin, Alnug. Tools required: A syringe with a small tube attachment...the tube size needed at the end is what you will find in common bic biros . Or you can use a grease gun or some sort. A GOOD o-ring compatible grease or a high quality medium/thick silicone grease. Mine was a silicon based grease i bought from Renault many years ago..was used for ball bearings on plastic runners. It's very good stuff and sticks where it's placed plus is high temp compatible...this is important since clutch fluid makes the clutch master cylinder hot. DO NOT..I REPEAT DO NOT! use WD40 or similar water displacing/ grease removing fluids (yes wd40 actually removes grease!) read below. ALSO Spray can lithium type greases or silicon sprays are also less effective since they don't have the viscocity. Some say it lasts for about a month if that and I have no idea how the lithium reacts with the o-rings. What I'm trying to say is that the grease type used will determine how effective this is. METHOD --------- -look up into the footwell and see where the master cylinder rod goes into the clylinder from the clutch pedal. where the rod goes in you'll see a holding washer(??) which prevents the rod from springing all the way out..on this washer there are two notches cut out and these notches are where you will insert the syringe extension tube (see pic where syringe enters) -push and HOLD the clutch pedal inwards...this is IMPORTANT! not doing so will mean you don't get the grease all the way in. -push the extension tube of the syringe as far into the holes as you can and squirt in some grease. -rotate the washer, where your syringe enters round,...yep it actually moves around and squirt in more grease...do this all the way round -once you've squirted in enough grease try spreading it around the inside of the cylinder+pushing it as far into the cylinder using the syringe extension. - once that's done work the pedal backwards and forwards to work the grease in. some/ a lot may squirt out of the two notches in the washer but the grease will be where it's needed. Hopefully that will fix the creak/click for a long while...enjoy the drive! DO NOT..I REPEAT DO NOT! go squirting WD40 or similar fluids in there...it may work for a day or more but as the fluid evaporates the lubricity (is there such a word!!!??) vanishes and you're back to the beginning. Worse still WD40 removes what grease was in there to begin with and also dries out the rubber/EPDM that makes up the o-rings in the cylinder and you end up being worse off! You've been warned! you need a thick grease which will stay put.

30th June 2012, 17:05	#3 (permalink)
Staffs Deltic Hey up duck! Car: Civic Type R GT Join Date: 7th December 2009 Location: Stoke-on-Trent Posts: 4,807 Thanks given: 696 Thanked 912 Times in 827 Posts iTrader: (9)	Thats good to know. Thanks for posting.

20th August 2012, 23:01	#5 (permalink)
L44VAT Supporter Car: 2008 Ctr silver with rages Join Date: 6th October 2011 Location: stoke Posts: 182 Thanks given: 9 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader: (0)	will try this great stuff

25th August 2012, 17:44	#6 (permalink)
adystypes Car: NHB Type S GT. Join Date: 17th February 2012 Location: wisbech Posts: 45 Thanks given: 3 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader: (1)	Aint worked for me.... anyone want to buy a type s !!!

16th January 2013, 14:54	#8 (permalink)
cv65user Supporter Car: 1.8cc EX, 5dr Join Date: 21st August 2007 Location: united kingdom Posts: 1,008 Thanks given: 57 Thanked 30 Times in 30 Posts iTrader: (1)	wer can i get the past e from

16th January 2013, 15:17	#9 (permalink)
Spank My Car Its a cake, not a biscuit Car: '57 CTR GT Join Date: 6th September 2011 Location: London/Hertfordshire Posts: 1,690 Thanks given: 169 Thanked 186 Times in 175 Posts iTrader: (6)	Going to try this tonight. Just to clarify, do I need to follow Munro's and not F6HADS for a CTR?