How to: 2.2 Oil Change (with pictures)

voicey · 28th August 2012, 18:39

I changed the oil for the first time on my Civic and thought I'd do a write up as I couldn't see any step by step instructions with photos.

As an aside, I've started a blog about Ferrari 360 repairs (if anyone is remotely interested). Linky

First thing was to raise the front of the car. I jacked up one side at a time and put large wooden blocks under the wheels. Having the nose up slightly aids with the oil draining.

I started with the oil filter as I read that there are two sizes - I wanted to make sure I had the correct size before dropping the oil out. I used a proper filter wrench:

The filter pulled off the pick up pipe. I bought mine from Eurocarparts and it came with three rubber seals. These were easily changed (locations shown in red):

The filter was then refitted - the benefit of using the proper filter wrench is that you can torque it up to the correct 25nm.

Next I drained the oil. Access was behind an aluminium tray held on in place with five 10mm bolts. If yours is anything like mine they were rusted in good.

The sump plug is in this hole:

And this is the actual plug. It requires a 17mm spanner but the actual thread is M14.

The oil will then drain out so make sure you have a big enough pan!

Whilst the oil is draining, clean up the sump plug and fit a new aluminium washer (I bought 5 off eBay for peanuts).

Once the oil has drained, refit the sump plug. I couldn't find any torque settings for it so just did it up tight!

Next I filled the engine with 5 litres of oil and then made sure there wasn't any leaks from the sump.

I then refitted the aluminium tray - I put some copper ease on the bolts so next time they'll come out a little easier.

With 5 litres of oil in and the filter empty, the dipstick was registering below the minimum. I started the engine and made sure the oil pressure light went out once the filter had filled with oil. I then shut off the engine and topped up the oil until I was near the top of the distick.

My filter came with a service sticker so I made a note of the date and mileage. I hope these photos help!

Observer · 28th August 2012, 20:58

Very clear and concise guide!

If you get your car serviced on the regular intervals there's no need to do this, right?

voicey · 28th August 2012, 21:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Observer

If you get your car serviced on the regular intervals there's no need to do this, right?

Correct - this is part of the servicing.

Hotchy · 29th August 2012, 11:17

Great guide thanks going to do my own next year save myself some money and learn a bit on the way.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Syx · 29th August 2012, 11:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by voicey

Once the oil has drained, refit the sump plug. I couldn't find any torque settings for it so just did it up tight!

39Nm.

Although I always do mine up finger tight then nip it up slightly with the socket.

aquilaboy · 1st September 2012, 15:55

Thanks Voicey, excellent pics _ just bought a 2010 2.2 Civic and was wondering where the filter was - i'm looking ahead as I always do my own servicing. Do you use 0W30 oil?

aquilaboy

voicey · 2nd September 2012, 08:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by aquilaboy

Thanks Voicey, excellent pics _ just bought a 2010 2.2 Civic and was wondering where the filter was - i'm looking ahead as I always do my own servicing. Do you use 0W30 oil?

aquilaboy

I used 5w40. But only becuase I buy it in bulk to use in my Ferrari - it takes 10 litres at each oil change!

Miggins · 5th September 2012, 23:15

Voicey,
Nice write up and some clear pics - nicely done.

The sump washer - I've never replaced mine and its never leaked (just in case anybody felt they needed to replace theirs) and that's for over 120K miles of regular oil changes

Just keep it clean and undamaged.

For the oil filter wrench - where did you get yours from? This is something I've struggled to obtain (other than from Honda)

voicey · 6th September 2012, 09:22

The tool is a 76mm 14 flute wrench. Laser make one (model number 3117) but other brands are out there. I believe you can buy them from Halfords.

You are able to reuse the sump washers as they are not the crush type but best practice is to change them and they cost pennies so why not change it?

42p each here

abs-civic · 7th October 2012, 23:45

Did mine today, was quite easy once you've managed to get the sump nut off. I used for bricks, two on either side to lift the car up a little and gain enough access underneath.

The oil filter was removed with the tool bought from halfords for £6.99 and it does the job, came off in seconds.

There is 2 nuts near the sump nut, but the correct one for oil drain is labelled. So you can't go wrong, as it say's engine oil next to the nut.

HUB · 20th November 2012, 20:47

Does it make a difference which way you putting the oil filter???

abs-civic · 20th November 2012, 21:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by HUB

Does it make a difference which way you putting the oil filter???

Not sure, but if I remember correct I put mine in with the writing on the filter at the top as this is how the old was in.

HUB · 20th November 2012, 21:42

They never cover brand names). I have done pollen filter and oil filter with names outside. pollen I am sure is done correctly but oil can be surprise.

voicey · 23rd November 2012, 21:03

I don't think it matters which way round the filter goes - the oil flows from between the inside and outside, not up or down.

HUB · 24th November 2012, 04:07

Can we be sure?))

mylesjohn · 16th February 2013, 13:13

Excellent guide. Another reason why this forum is awesome

Leonardofury · 16th February 2013, 15:27

I've had a go at this today, but I was unable to get the sump plug to turn at all. The washer looked quite corroded. Has anyone else had a similar problem?

HUB · 30th March 2013, 12:35

Remember oil must be very hot. With hot oil you can drain .5l more than with cold.

mikesmith181 · 26th April 2013, 15:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by voicey

With 5 litres of oil in and the filter empty, the dipstick was registering below the minimum. I started the engine and made sure the oil pressure light went out once the filter had filled with oil.

The engine was started with the oil level below minimum?!?!?!?!

your one lucky son of a gun that it didn't do any internal damage.

abs-civic · 15th May 2013, 09:15

Changed my oil the other day, just wondering if anyone know's what the other bolt is next to the engine oil sump nut ??

28th August 2012, 18:39	#1 (permalink)
voicey Car: 2007 CDTI EX Join Date: 19th April 2009 Location: Aldous Voice Posts: 69 Thanks given: 3 Thanked 16 Times in 7 Posts iTrader: (0)	How to: 2.2 Oil Change (with pictures) I changed the oil for the first time on my Civic and thought I'd do a write up as I couldn't see any step by step instructions with photos. As an aside, I've started a blog about Ferrari 360 repairs (if anyone is remotely interested). Linky First thing was to raise the front of the car. I jacked up one side at a time and put large wooden blocks under the wheels. Having the nose up slightly aids with the oil draining. I started with the oil filter as I read that there are two sizes - I wanted to make sure I had the correct size before dropping the oil out. I used a proper filter wrench: The filter pulled off the pick up pipe. I bought mine from Eurocarparts and it came with three rubber seals. These were easily changed (locations shown in red): The filter was then refitted - the benefit of using the proper filter wrench is that you can torque it up to the correct 25nm. Next I drained the oil. Access was behind an aluminium tray held on in place with five 10mm bolts. If yours is anything like mine they were rusted in good. The sump plug is in this hole: And this is the actual plug. It requires a 17mm spanner but the actual thread is M14. The oil will then drain out so make sure you have a big enough pan! Whilst the oil is draining, clean up the sump plug and fit a new aluminium washer (I bought 5 off eBay for peanuts). Once the oil has drained, refit the sump plug. I couldn't find any torque settings for it so just did it up tight! Next I filled the engine with 5 litres of oil and then made sure there wasn't any leaks from the sump. I then refitted the aluminium tray - I put some copper ease on the bolts so next time they'll come out a little easier. With 5 litres of oil in and the filter empty, the dipstick was registering below the minimum. I started the engine and made sure the oil pressure light went out once the filter had filled with oil. I then shut off the engine and topped up the oil until I was near the top of the distick. My filter came with a service sticker so I made a note of the date and mileage. I hope these photos help!

6th September 2012, 09:22	#9 (permalink)
voicey Thread starter Car: 2007 CDTI EX Join Date: 19th April 2009 Location: Aldous Voice Posts: 69 Thanks given: 3 Thanked 16 Times in 7 Posts iTrader: (0)	The tool is a 76mm 14 flute wrench. Laser make one (model number 3117) but other brands are out there. I believe you can buy them from Halfords. You are able to reuse the sump washers as they are not the crush type but best practice is to change them and they cost pennies so why not change it? 42p each here Last edited by voicey; 6th September 2012 at 09:25.

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28th August 2012, 20:58	#2 (permalink)
Observer Supporter Car: 2006, 2.2 ex 5 door, Black Join Date: 11th May 2012 Location: London, UK Posts: 44 Thanks given: 6 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader: (1)	Very clear and concise guide! If you get your car serviced on the regular intervals there's no need to do this, right?

29th August 2012, 11:17	#4 (permalink)
Hotchy Supporter Car: 2007 57 2.2 Type S Join Date: 19th February 2011 Location: Scotland Posts: 621 Thanks given: 35 Thanked 38 Times in 38 Posts iTrader: (1)	Great guide thanks going to do my own next year save myself some money and learn a bit on the way. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

1st September 2012, 15:55	#6 (permalink)
aquilaboy Join Date: 1st September 2012 Location: Bexhill, east sussex Posts: 4 Thanks given: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader: (0)	Thanks Voicey, excellent pics _ just bought a 2010 2.2 Civic and was wondering where the filter was - i'm looking ahead as I always do my own servicing. Do you use 0W30 oil? aquilaboy

5th September 2012, 23:15	#8 (permalink)
Miggins Enthusiastic Supporter Car: 2006 2.2 5 door, Cosmic grey Join Date: 25th August 2006 Location: The Twilight Zone Posts: 620 Thanks given: 5 Thanked 7 Times in 5 Posts iTrader: (0)	Voicey, Nice write up and some clear pics - nicely done. The sump washer - I've never replaced mine and its never leaked (just in case anybody felt they needed to replace theirs) and that's for over 120K miles of regular oil changes Just keep it clean and undamaged. For the oil filter wrench - where did you get yours from? This is something I've struggled to obtain (other than from Honda)

7th October 2012, 23:45	#10 (permalink)
abs-civic Supporter Car: 2006 2.2 EX, NHB Join Date: 8th November 2011 Location: Bedfordshire UK Posts: 1,153 Thanks given: 80 Thanked 109 Times in 107 Posts iTrader: (5)	Did mine today, was quite easy once you've managed to get the sump nut off. I used for bricks, two on either side to lift the car up a little and gain enough access underneath. The oil filter was removed with the tool bought from halfords for £6.99 and it does the job, came off in seconds. There is 2 nuts near the sump nut, but the correct one for oil drain is labelled. So you can't go wrong, as it say's engine oil next to the nut.

20th November 2012, 20:47	#11 (permalink)
HUB Join Date: 10th May 2012 Location: Buks, Uk Posts: 134 Thanks given: 2 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader: (0)	Does it make a difference which way you putting the oil filter???

20th November 2012, 21:42	#13 (permalink)
HUB Join Date: 10th May 2012 Location: Buks, Uk Posts: 134 Thanks given: 2 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader: (0)	They never cover brand names). I have done pollen filter and oil filter with names outside. pollen I am sure is done correctly but oil can be surprise.

23rd November 2012, 21:03	#14 (permalink)
voicey Thread starter Car: 2007 CDTI EX Join Date: 19th April 2009 Location: Aldous Voice Posts: 69 Thanks given: 3 Thanked 16 Times in 7 Posts iTrader: (0)	I don't think it matters which way round the filter goes - the oil flows from between the inside and outside, not up or down.

24th November 2012, 04:07	#15 (permalink)
HUB Join Date: 10th May 2012 Location: Buks, Uk Posts: 134 Thanks given: 2 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader: (0)	Can we be sure?))

16th February 2013, 13:13	#16 (permalink)
mylesjohn Supporter Car: 2006 2.2 5 door sport silver Join Date: 8th May 2012 Location: calne, wiltshire Posts: 449 Thanks given: 34 Thanked 45 Times in 45 Posts iTrader: (0)	Excellent guide. Another reason why this forum is awesome

16th February 2013, 15:27	#17 (permalink)
Leonardofury Join Date: 2nd August 2012 Location: Somerset, UK Posts: 1 Thanks given: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	I've had a go at this today, but I was unable to get the sump plug to turn at all. The washer looked quite corroded. Has anyone else had a similar problem?

30th March 2013, 12:35	#18 (permalink)
HUB Join Date: 10th May 2012 Location: Buks, Uk Posts: 134 Thanks given: 2 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader: (0)	Remember oil must be very hot. With hot oil you can drain .5l more than with cold.

15th May 2013, 09:15	#20 (permalink)
abs-civic Supporter Car: 2006 2.2 EX, NHB Join Date: 8th November 2011 Location: Bedfordshire UK Posts: 1,153 Thanks given: 80 Thanked 109 Times in 107 Posts iTrader: (5)	Changed my oil the other day, just wondering if anyone know's what the other bolt is next to the engine oil sump nut ??