[How-To] switch power mirrors with the central locking - Page 2

Wasser098 · 27th November 2007, 18:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daren

Will this fold your mirrors if you have your central locking set to lock at over 10mph?

How do you do this?

hgt · 27th November 2007, 18:26

I'm just clever

TTDegs · 28th November 2007, 16:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wasser098

How do you do this?

door locking at 10mph?

you can't I'm afraid - Honda disabled the ability to do it from '07 onwards (therefore including all Rs)

for '06 owners, there is a How To in here

but back on topic - roll on the weekend!

Naresh · 29th November 2007, 21:54

OK I've got hold of most of the components for this unit but one item isn't available from Maplins for another week so will have to hold fire just yet for a completed unit. Can I get an idea of how many of you would want one of these? I am thinking of sending by post via payal, and also offering a fitting service for anyone within reasonable distance from Ilford, Essex, who isn't too confident about fitting it themselves.

philosoma · 29th November 2007, 22:11

1N4007 QL79U is discontinued, so ordered 1N4007S QL79L as it was the only similar number. Hope the specs are the same...

N56AC BC635 still says 7 days, but am in no rush.

Koen · 29th November 2007, 22:34

1N4007 is just a basic diode. Any 1N400x would have done the job, so no worries.

Tech talk:
You can consider a diode to be a "valve for electricity": it lets current flow in one direction, but not in the opposite direction. This comes at a price however: when current goes through, you lose about 0,6 volts over the diode.
The famous little LED lamps are also diodes: Light Emitting Diodes. So they have the same characteristics, but in general they have a larger voltage drop:1.1 to 1.6 volts.
The type/specs mainly are about how much current can flow, and how much volt it can withstand when blocking.

That's the very (very very...) basics.

K.

Dimplyred · 29th November 2007, 23:24

Well done hgt for this mod, I think you were wise to start this thread with "you fit this at you own risk" obviously you can see that people who aren't as electronically capable as you may see it and try it. Koen you obviously understand the schematics of this mod too. Sorry to be a party pooper but I don't think anyone who needs the function of a diode or its associated volt drop characteristics should be attempting it.

What do you think??

Foggy69 · 29th November 2007, 23:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dimplyred

Well done hgt for this mod, I think you were wise to start this thread with "you fit this at you own risk" obviously you can see that people who aren't as electronically capable as you may see it and try it. Koen you obviously understand the schematics of this mod too. Sorry to be a party pooper but I don't think anyone who needs the function of a diode or its associated volt drop characteristics should be attempting it.

What do you think??

Quite right.
That's why I have given all the diagrams and the details of this thread to a local car electrician

If he won't do it, then maybe under the Thames to Essex.

philosoma · 30th November 2007, 06:39

Cheers Koen. Never used the things before, so was unsure.

As for non-techy types doing this: Its about as simple as its going to get to make, but I think the write up and diagrams could be made more friendly. If no one else does I'll take more pics when I install it in a few weeks. And of course the bodge of wires that mine will look like. The plastic box is just extra weight..

Naresh · 30th November 2007, 08:32

Yes its the N56AC BC635 transitor thats still out of stock so just waiting on that.

MoOriginal · 30th November 2007, 10:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Naresh

OK I've got hold of most of the components for this unit but one item isn't available from Maplins for another week so will have to hold fire just yet for a completed unit. Can I get an idea of how many of you would want one of these? I am thinking of sending by post via payal, and also offering a fitting service for anyone within reasonable distance from Ilford, Essex, who isn't too confident about fitting it themselves.

Fitting Too! - count me in [if it was reasonable] - Ill just jump on the north circular be there in 30 mins.

gbrockley · 30th November 2007, 14:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Naresh

Haven't had a chance to put this together yet but will try this weekend, weather and comittments permitting.

Naresh, How much do you reckon the kit would be, and would you supply simplified fitting instructions.

hgt · 30th November 2007, 17:06

For some reason I am unable to edit my post so I will have to add this here.
I think that a circuit description may help those of you who are building your own units.
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The manual switch simply reverses the polarity of the feed to the motors, therefor all that was required was a relay to do the same thing and then some form of control over the relay from the central locking.
The contacts on the relay are wired so that when the relay is at rest the mirrors are in, when the relay is energized the contacts reverse the polarity of the feed to the motors and the mirrors go out.
So when the mirrors are in, the car is parked and the relay doesn't draw any current, when the mirrors are out the relay is energized and draws 120ma but as the engine is likely to be running thats not a problem, even if the engine wasn't running a car battery would take months to run down with this current drain.
The feed from the central locking is at 12v when the car is unlocked, this is taken to the base of TR1 via D1 protection diode, this turns on TR1 which switches on TR2 and energizes the relay, (the mirrors go out).
When the car is locked the feed from the central locking is at 0v, this turns off TR1 which turns off TR2 the relay drops out and reverses the polarity of the feed to the motors so the mirrors come in.
Now for the clever bit, When the ignition switch is in position 2 the feed from pin 8 of the mirror switch plug is at 12v in one position and 0v or chassis in the other.
By feeding this to the base of TR2 the manual switch takes control of TR2 by feeding 12v to TR2's base thus turning it on, or grounding TR2's base thus turning it off regardless of what the central locking is feeding into TR1's base.
What this means is, when you unlock the car the central locking has control and opens the mirrors, when you turn on the ignition 12v is fed from the manual switch to TR2 thus taking control of the circuit away from the central locking in this way if the central locking operates over 10mph it will have no effect on the circuit and the mirrors will stay out.
Only when you stop the car and switch the ignition off does the central locking take control again. So when you lock the car the mirrors come in.
When the ignition is on you have full manual control so you can bring the mirrors in manually to park in a narrow garage for instance.
If you want the mirrors controlled by the ignition only then don't fit D4, without D4 there is a low impedance path to the base of TR2, which causes the relay to drop out when the ignition is turned off.
D4 blocks this low impedance path and allows the central locking to keep control of the relay when the ignition is off. So if you want the mirrors controlled by the central locking then D4 is essential.

hgt · 2nd December 2007, 14:25

It seems the maplins relay in the parts list is slightly different to the one I used. this is the wiring diagram for the maplins relay

Naresh · 5th December 2007, 08:11

OK, I am close to completing this kit now and should have one ready by tonight. I will be making these up to sell on here if there is sufficient interest. I will offer free fitting on the first one this Thursday or Friday if anyone is in the Ilford/Essex area? Please PM me for details.

Kind Regards,

Naresh

CIB · 12th December 2007, 06:40

Do you have any plans to introduce auto-close windows on Lock?
I really miss this func with this car.

hgt · 12th December 2007, 15:35

Good idea, I didn't think of that, I will do some research, watch this space.

philosoma · 19th December 2007, 11:14

Well I got mine installed last night. Had to make some changes but in the end it all works pretty good

I realised while making it that it could be very simple to make a version for a 07 and onwards civic though. Cheers hgt!

hgt · 19th December 2007, 14:27

Glad it works for you, My car is an 07, I have the workshop manual and the wireing is the same for 06 and 07, so it will work for both

philosoma · 20th December 2007, 19:49

Could you cut in to the central locking 12v and put it on the relay coils to hold the relay open?

30th November 2007, 17:06	#33 (permalink)
hgt Supporter Wheelnut Join Date: 11th October 2007 Location: Holmes Chapel, Cheshire Posts: 71 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	For some reason I am unable to edit my post so I will have to add this here. I think that a circuit description may help those of you who are building your own units. CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION The manual switch simply reverses the polarity of the feed to the motors, therefor all that was required was a relay to do the same thing and then some form of control over the relay from the central locking. The contacts on the relay are wired so that when the relay is at rest the mirrors are in, when the relay is energized the contacts reverse the polarity of the feed to the motors and the mirrors go out. So when the mirrors are in, the car is parked and the relay doesn't draw any current, when the mirrors are out the relay is energized and draws 120ma but as the engine is likely to be running thats not a problem, even if the engine wasn't running a car battery would take months to run down with this current drain. The feed from the central locking is at 12v when the car is unlocked, this is taken to the base of TR1 via D1 protection diode, this turns on TR1 which switches on TR2 and energizes the relay, (the mirrors go out). When the car is locked the feed from the central locking is at 0v, this turns off TR1 which turns off TR2 the relay drops out and reverses the polarity of the feed to the motors so the mirrors come in. Now for the clever bit, When the ignition switch is in position 2 the feed from pin 8 of the mirror switch plug is at 12v in one position and 0v or chassis in the other. By feeding this to the base of TR2 the manual switch takes control of TR2 by feeding 12v to TR2's base thus turning it on, or grounding TR2's base thus turning it off regardless of what the central locking is feeding into TR1's base. What this means is, when you unlock the car the central locking has control and opens the mirrors, when you turn on the ignition 12v is fed from the manual switch to TR2 thus taking control of the circuit away from the central locking in this way if the central locking operates over 10mph it will have no effect on the circuit and the mirrors will stay out. Only when you stop the car and switch the ignition off does the central locking take control again. So when you lock the car the mirrors come in. When the ignition is on you have full manual control so you can bring the mirrors in manually to park in a narrow garage for instance. If you want the mirrors controlled by the ignition only then don't fit D4, without D4 there is a low impedance path to the base of TR2, which causes the relay to drop out when the ignition is turned off. D4 blocks this low impedance path and allows the central locking to keep control of the relay when the ignition is off. So if you want the mirrors controlled by the central locking then D4 is essential. Last edited by hgt; 1st December 2007 at 16:39. Reason: to add more info

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This thread is about: [How-To] switch power mirrors with the central locking, it's in How To at the Honda Civic forum Civinfo; Originally Posted by Daren Will this fold your mirrors if you have your central locking set to lock at over 10mph? How do you do ...

27th November 2007, 18:26	#22 (permalink)
hgt Supporter Wheelnut Join Date: 11th October 2007 Location: Holmes Chapel, Cheshire Posts: 71 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	I'm just clever

29th November 2007, 21:54	#24 (permalink)
Naresh Supporter Locking Wheelnut Join Date: 15th July 2007 Location: Essex Posts: 112 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	OK I've got hold of most of the components for this unit but one item isn't available from Maplins for another week so will have to hold fire just yet for a completed unit. Can I get an idea of how many of you would want one of these? I am thinking of sending by post via payal, and also offering a fitting service for anyone within reasonable distance from Ilford, Essex, who isn't too confident about fitting it themselves.

29th November 2007, 22:11	#25 (permalink)
philosoma Wheelnut Join Date: 23rd March 2007 Location: England Posts: 79 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader: (0)	1N4007 QL79U is discontinued, so ordered 1N4007S QL79L as it was the only similar number. Hope the specs are the same... N56AC BC635 still says 7 days, but am in no rush.

29th November 2007, 22:34	#26 (permalink)
Koen Supporter Triangular Exhaust Join Date: 18th September 2007 Location: Belgium Posts: 244 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	1N4007 is just a basic diode. Any 1N400x would have done the job, so no worries. Tech talk: You can consider a diode to be a "valve for electricity": it lets current flow in one direction, but not in the opposite direction. This comes at a price however: when current goes through, you lose about 0,6 volts over the diode. The famous little LED lamps are also diodes: Light Emitting Diodes. So they have the same characteristics, but in general they have a larger voltage drop:1.1 to 1.6 volts. The type/specs mainly are about how much current can flow, and how much volt it can withstand when blocking. That's the very (very very...) basics. K.

29th November 2007, 23:24	#27 (permalink)
Dimplyred Super Moderator Civinfo guru Join Date: 24th August 2007 Location: Staffordshire Posts: 4,742 Thanks: 19 Thanked 133 Times in 132 Posts iTrader: (0)	Well done hgt for this mod, I think you were wise to start this thread with "you fit this at you own risk" obviously you can see that people who aren't as electronically capable as you may see it and try it. Koen you obviously understand the schematics of this mod too. Sorry to be a party pooper but I don't think anyone who needs the function of a diode or its associated volt drop characteristics should be attempting it. What do you think??

30th November 2007, 06:39	#29 (permalink)
philosoma Wheelnut Join Date: 23rd March 2007 Location: England Posts: 79 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader: (0)	Cheers Koen. Never used the things before, so was unsure. As for non-techy types doing this: Its about as simple as its going to get to make, but I think the write up and diagrams could be made more friendly. If no one else does I'll take more pics when I install it in a few weeks. And of course the bodge of wires that mine will look like. The plastic box is just extra weight..

30th November 2007, 08:32	#30 (permalink)
Naresh Supporter Locking Wheelnut Join Date: 15th July 2007 Location: Essex Posts: 112 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	Yes its the N56AC BC635 transitor thats still out of stock so just waiting on that.

2nd December 2007, 14:25	#34 (permalink)
hgt Supporter Wheelnut Join Date: 11th October 2007 Location: Holmes Chapel, Cheshire Posts: 71 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	It seems the maplins relay in the parts list is slightly different to the one I used. this is the wiring diagram for the maplins relay

5th December 2007, 08:11	#35 (permalink)
Naresh Supporter Locking Wheelnut Join Date: 15th July 2007 Location: Essex Posts: 112 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	OK, I am close to completing this kit now and should have one ready by tonight. I will be making these up to sell on here if there is sufficient interest. I will offer free fitting on the first one this Thursday or Friday if anyone is in the Ilford/Essex area? Please PM me for details. Kind Regards, Naresh

12th December 2007, 06:40	#36 (permalink)
CIB Valve Cap Join Date: 6th March 2007 Location: Latvia Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	Do you have any plans to introduce auto-close windows on Lock? I really miss this func with this car.

12th December 2007, 15:35	#37 (permalink)
hgt Supporter Wheelnut Join Date: 11th October 2007 Location: Holmes Chapel, Cheshire Posts: 71 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	Good idea, I didn't think of that, I will do some research, watch this space.

19th December 2007, 11:14	#38 (permalink)
philosoma Wheelnut Join Date: 23rd March 2007 Location: England Posts: 79 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader: (0)	Well I got mine installed last night. Had to make some changes but in the end it all works pretty good I realised while making it that it could be very simple to make a version for a 07 and onwards civic though. Cheers hgt!

19th December 2007, 14:27	#39 (permalink)
hgt Supporter Wheelnut Join Date: 11th October 2007 Location: Holmes Chapel, Cheshire Posts: 71 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader: (0)	Glad it works for you, My car is an 07, I have the workshop manual and the wireing is the same for 06 and 07, so it will work for both

20th December 2007, 19:49	#40 (permalink)
philosoma Wheelnut Join Date: 23rd March 2007 Location: England Posts: 79 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader: (0)	Could you cut in to the central locking 12v and put it on the relay coils to hold the relay open?