Speakers Infinity Speaker Install Additional Notes

[Timmycube]

Hi Guys,

For the last few days I've been installing some Infinity Speakers (6530cs reference in the front, 6532si shallow mounts in the rear). I still have a Basslink to install in the boot - Tomorrows task I think.

I've never done anything like this, but a variety of guides on here has really helped. In exchange I thought I'd try and write down a few of the issues I had for future reference. I'll edit this top post to make it more useful as and when I think of something or if anyone has any good pictures or links etc...

Tools Used:
Trim Removal Tool
Round nosed Pliers
Wire Cutters
Philips Screwdriver
Electric Drill
2.5mm Drill bit (Pilot holes)
Soldering Iron

Consumables:
4 Packs of Dynamat (each containing 2 off 10" sheets)
2 square feet of Silent Coat
A selection of self tapping screws
6m 18AWG Speaker Cable
Lead Free Solder
Electrical Tape (I used white - Bling)
2 Packs of Autoleads SAK2902 - one set for the fronts, one set for the rears.


Installation:-

1. Removed the rear trim, which isn't time consuming, but the clips are VERY tight for the cup-holder section.

2. Wound front windows down, removed tweeters - I used the trim removal tool and pryed the rearmost (next to where the window would be) edge to release the clip nearest the door edge. The tweeters then lift up (towards the roof) to take out. You can then unclip the electrical connector and the tweeter housing is free to take away for later.

3. Removed front door cards. Three screws as per the guide, then use a trim tool to pry the door card to the bottom of the door. Lots of popping, then lift the door card up.

4. Remove electrical connectors in the door card. This a bit tricky as they're very very tight. Persevere!

5. Unclip the door catch and door lock mechanisms - This makes sense when you're looking at it, but I found it daunting in the pictures. Don't worry, It'll be fine! The round nosed pliers came in handy for releasing the door lock clip.

6. Remove the door cards and put them somewhere safe!

7. You can now remove the factory speakers. They really are how everybody says, though I actually think they sound pretty good considering their construction!

8. Next I fitted Dynamat. I used one pack per speaker - As per the guide... I cut small shapes and stuck them on neatly, rather than sticking the whole sheet on and then trimming. I figured I'd get a more efficient covering this way, but it took around 45minutes per door - probably 3 times as time consuming(?) I also wrapped Silent coat around the speaker adaptors to firm them up. As per other recommendations I doubled up the layer local to the edge of the speaker aperture.

9. Speaker rings can be offered up and drilled through to pilot holes for mounting. I sued a set of self tapping screws to fix the rings on, and wrapped slivers of dynamat round the rear protruding screws to avoid sharp edges in the door.

10. Fitted front Speakers - I cut into the tweeter wire to provide a feed to my speakers rather than use a spade connector inside the existing clip. I soldered the joint and wrapped electrical tape around the joints. I left the existing wiring all in place and re-wired the crossovers, tweeters and woofers all from the feed mentioned above. This way I could do most of my wiring inside, as at the moment it seems to get dark very early.

11. Fitted rear speakers - This is truly straight forward. Note that you don't actually need shallow mounts. I'm not sure why I bought them! (Also Dynamatted)

12. I took a feed from the rear left speaker (soldered and spliced in) and ran a cable over the rear wheel arch between the outside panel and the trim. My girlfriends (slender) arm made this quite straightforward. I'm going to use this as a feed for the basslink. It came out next to the Jack - No modification of carpet required

13. Now to put the trim back on - I had to trim the tweeters to fit the infinity mounts, which took around 30mins, but looks very "OEM" and I can rotate them now to direct them at my ears. Much better than gluing IMHO

14. I had to trim the rear door cards as the door card was touching the speaker and would clip back in place. It took another hour to do this, but I did it neatly. First I trimmed with a knife, then sanded to remove all burrs and sharp edges. I then wrapped the edge in electrical tape incase the speakers made contact when they're moving.

15. I need to trim the front door cards as per the rears - I haven't done this, and my panel isn't quite flush in the front of the door...

How does it sound?
The speakers haven't bedded in yet, but already they sound cleaner in the mid range - It no longer sounds like my doors are full of sludge. There's not much more bass, but I'm hoping to sort that tomorrow with a sub. I think doing the rears made a more noticeable difference than the Fronts - There's a more "floating" soundstage now, which I like a lot.


Conclusions:-
It's a lot of effort so I'd say it's only really worth doing if you're really keen. I've spent much of the day regretting I started... But in the end, it's a nice sounding upgrade.

Nothing about this is difficult, but If you're picky and inexperienced (like me!) then allow PLENTY of time. It's taken me nearly 14 hours in total so far......

Be prepared to do some trimming of panels unless you get lucky.

Be prepared to have a few minor cuts and scrapes - some of the work can be a little fiddly, particularly if you're not used to it.