AUX in Interference from MP3 player

jalaman · 20th July 2007, 14:12

I just installed the Connects2 AUX adapter and connected my TomTom Go 910 to play my MP3's. It works just fine, but I'm getting some high pitched interference, like a turbine noise. And it goes with the revs of the engine.

Guess I need to add something to cancel this noise. Anyone got any ideas?

FWH · 20th July 2007, 14:19

Maybe a ferrite core somewhere?

Or you could try re-routing the wiring away from as much of the car wiring / electroincs as possible. Easier said than done.

jalaman · 20th July 2007, 14:23

What is a ferrite core?

FWH · 20th July 2007, 14:28

Like this:
http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/dyndok.pl?dok=10403.htm

Usually used on power supply cable (secondary side), montior cables etc. Helps reduce interferance in some cases.

jalaman · 20th July 2007, 17:45

Tried with a ferrite core. Didn't help. Ordered this now, think that will do the trick

http://www.bilradiospes.no/prod_detaljer.php?id=1093

pcr · 20th July 2007, 20:53

Try to determine if the noise is conducted or transmitted.

If moving your equipment + cables around makes a difference then it's probably transmitted. Repositioning or screening may be neccessary. Wrap the lot in aluminium foil and connect foil to earth might give some clues.

If you decide it's conducted then ferrites might help, also consider where it is earthed, a different earth point may help.

Ask Connect2, they must have lots of experience in this area.

jalaman · 20th July 2007, 21:02

I've tried moving the cables and devices, the noise is the same. Also tried a ferrite core on both the signal cable and the power cable.

There is no earth connections in this setup

Just to clarify: My TomTom dock is connected to to cigarette lighter for power, and then a signal cable with mini jack -> RCA connections to the Connects2, which again connects to the HU.

Now, If I remove the power and let the TomTom run on battery, the noise is gone. But as soon as I plug the power in again, the noise comes back.

pcr · 20th July 2007, 22:20

If I understand you correctly, the Connects2 is powered (and earthed) from the cigarette lighter, whereas the HU is powered from elsewhere. Potentially you have an earth-loop, ie. the source and the Amp are earthed at different points, a good candidate for causing this type of problem.

Also, maybe the power at the cigarette lighter has too much electrical noise, in which case a decoupling capacitor might be the answer.

FWH · 20th July 2007, 22:40

Look at the "how to wire in a snooper" how-to.
Perhaps wiring in the TomTom like that could help.
It would put the stereo and TomTom on the same circuit.

There is probably a voltage adapter in the TomTom cigarete plug, if so you need a cable with a cigarette outlet to wire in.

jalaman · 21st July 2007, 01:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by pcr

If I understand you correctly, the Connects2 is powered (and earthed) from the cigarette lighter, whereas the HU is powered from elsewhere. Potentially you have an earth-loop, ie. the source and the Amp are earthed at different points, a good candidate for causing this type of problem.

Also, maybe the power at the cigarette lighter has too much electrical noise, in which case a decoupling capacitor might be the answer.

Interesting. Do you have a link to a decoupling capacitator product?

jalaman · 21st July 2007, 01:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by FWH

Look at the "how to wire in a snooper" how-to.
Perhaps wiring in the TomTom like that could help.
It would put the stereo and TomTom on the same circuit.

There is probably a voltage adapter in the TomTom cigarete plug, if so you need a cable with a cigarette outlet to wire in.

Sounds like a good idea. But when poking the + wire into the fuse, how do I know wich "leg" of the fuse to poke it into. Of course I want it after the fuse.

FWH · 21st July 2007, 08:33

Take the fuse out and use a voltmeter to see where you still have voltage.

jalaman · 24th July 2007, 14:05

This device solved the problem. Guess wiring to the same ground point as the stereo uses also would help

http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SGLI-RCA...QQcmdZViewItem

IronSoil · 10th December 2007, 15:03

I also have problems with the whining noise, so I have also bought the Stinger model.

How do I install the ground isolator?

It should be connected with rca-cables from the amplifier, but the rca-connectors are not used?

The amplifier was installed by a professional installer.

I have also Basslink II subwoofer and front system by Infinity installed by the same installer...

Any ideas how to do the installation?

Are is a link to the installation manual:

http://manuals.harman.com/INF/CAR/Ow...rev9-23-05.pdf

Bog · 10th December 2007, 15:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by IronSoil

I also have problems with the whining noise, so I have also bought the Stinger model.

How do I install the ground isolator?

It should be connected with rca-cables from the amplifier, but the rca-connectors are not used?

The amplifier was installed by a professional installer.

I have also Basslink II subwoofer and front system by Infinity installed by the same installer...

Any ideas how to do the installation?

Are is a link to the installation manual:

http://manuals.harman.com/INF/CAR/Owner%27s%20Manual/BassLinkIIOMrev9-23-05.pdf

Ironsoil,

I would guess you would need cut off the RCA plugs and connect it between the HU and the Amp (i.e the molex style connectors on the left of the bottom unit in your pic), but seeing as you amp is driven by a direct connection to the speaker out connectors of the HU, you have 4 channels that need isolating (Front L & R and Rear L & R), therefore you would need two stingers/ground loop isolators.

IronSoil · 10th December 2007, 18:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bog

Ironsoil,

I would guess you would need cut off the RCA plugs and connect it between the HU and the Amp (i.e the molex style connectors on the left of the bottom unit in your pic), but seeing as you amp is driven by a direct connection to the speaker out connectors of the HU, you have 4 channels that need isolating (Front L & R and Rear L & R), therefore you would need two stingers/ground loop isolators.

So I would need to cut the wires just before the molex connectors and put the ground loops isolator between? I would still use the molex connectors?

The whining is only heard from the front coaxial speakers, so would it be enough just to use one ground isolator for the Front L & R channels?

Bog · 10th December 2007, 19:20

I would think so, unless someone on here has a better solution

20th July 2007, 14:12	#1 (permalink)
jalaman Supporter Valve Cap Join Date: 29th May 2007 Location: Oslo, Norway Posts: 32 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Interference from MP3 player I just installed the Connects2 AUX adapter and connected my TomTom Go 910 to play my MP3's. It works just fine, but I'm getting some high pitched interference, like a turbine noise. And it goes with the revs of the engine. Guess I need to add something to cancel this noise. Anyone got any ideas?

24th July 2007, 14:05	#13 (permalink)
jalaman Supporter Valve Cap Join Date: 29th May 2007 Location: Oslo, Norway Posts: 32 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Problem solved This device solved the problem. Guess wiring to the same ground point as the stereo uses also would help http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SGLI-RCA...QQcmdZViewItem

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This thread is about: Interference from MP3 player, it's in Ipods, MP3 Players and ICE at the Honda Civic forum Civinfo; I just installed the Connects2 AUX adapter and connected my TomTom Go 910 to play my MP3's. It works just fine, but I'm getting some ...

20th July 2007, 14:19	#2 (permalink)
FWH Super Moderator Civinfo guru Join Date: 3rd June 2007 Location: Sweden Posts: 4,851 Thanks: 3 Thanked 26 Times in 23 Posts	Maybe a ferrite core somewhere? Or you could try re-routing the wiring away from as much of the car wiring / electroincs as possible. Easier said than done.

20th July 2007, 14:23	#3 (permalink)
jalaman Supporter Valve Cap Join Date: 29th May 2007 Location: Oslo, Norway Posts: 32 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	What is a ferrite core?

20th July 2007, 14:28	#4 (permalink)
FWH Super Moderator Civinfo guru Join Date: 3rd June 2007 Location: Sweden Posts: 4,851 Thanks: 3 Thanked 26 Times in 23 Posts	Like this: http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/dyndok.pl?dok=10403.htm Usually used on power supply cable (secondary side), montior cables etc. Helps reduce interferance in some cases.

20th July 2007, 17:45	#5 (permalink)
jalaman Supporter Valve Cap Join Date: 29th May 2007 Location: Oslo, Norway Posts: 32 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Tried with a ferrite core. Didn't help. Ordered this now, think that will do the trick http://www.bilradiospes.no/prod_detaljer.php?id=1093

20th July 2007, 20:53	#6 (permalink)
pcr Magic Rear Seat Join Date: 5th September 2006 Location: Shropshire Posts: 843 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Try to determine if the noise is conducted or transmitted. If moving your equipment + cables around makes a difference then it's probably transmitted. Repositioning or screening may be neccessary. Wrap the lot in aluminium foil and connect foil to earth might give some clues. If you decide it's conducted then ferrites might help, also consider where it is earthed, a different earth point may help. Ask Connect2, they must have lots of experience in this area.

20th July 2007, 21:02	#7 (permalink)
jalaman Supporter Valve Cap Join Date: 29th May 2007 Location: Oslo, Norway Posts: 32 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I've tried moving the cables and devices, the noise is the same. Also tried a ferrite core on both the signal cable and the power cable. There is no earth connections in this setup Just to clarify: My TomTom dock is connected to to cigarette lighter for power, and then a signal cable with mini jack -> RCA connections to the Connects2, which again connects to the HU. Now, If I remove the power and let the TomTom run on battery, the noise is gone. But as soon as I plug the power in again, the noise comes back.

20th July 2007, 22:20	#8 (permalink)
pcr Magic Rear Seat Join Date: 5th September 2006 Location: Shropshire Posts: 843 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	If I understand you correctly, the Connects2 is powered (and earthed) from the cigarette lighter, whereas the HU is powered from elsewhere. Potentially you have an earth-loop, ie. the source and the Amp are earthed at different points, a good candidate for causing this type of problem. Also, maybe the power at the cigarette lighter has too much electrical noise, in which case a decoupling capacitor might be the answer.

20th July 2007, 22:40	#9 (permalink)
FWH Super Moderator Civinfo guru Join Date: 3rd June 2007 Location: Sweden Posts: 4,851 Thanks: 3 Thanked 26 Times in 23 Posts	Look at the "how to wire in a snooper" how-to. Perhaps wiring in the TomTom like that could help. It would put the stereo and TomTom on the same circuit. There is probably a voltage adapter in the TomTom cigarete plug, if so you need a cable with a cigarette outlet to wire in.

21st July 2007, 08:33	#12 (permalink)
FWH Super Moderator Civinfo guru Join Date: 3rd June 2007 Location: Sweden Posts: 4,851 Thanks: 3 Thanked 26 Times in 23 Posts	Take the fuse out and use a voltmeter to see where you still have voltage.

10th December 2007, 19:20	#17 (permalink)
Bog Supporter Magic Rear Seat Join Date: 5th October 2006 Location: Romford, Essex Posts: 886 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	I would think so, unless someone on here has a better solution