My install Upgrade existing factory unit questions & advice welcome

[CTR-PeteLFS]

I currently have the existing factory headunit & speakers installed in my Civic Type S 3 Door. I would like to upgrade my system so it sounds a bit better quality. Now I understand you can only get so much of an improvement with the existing factory kit but I already have an Xcarlink device and a Review mirror monitor which I play music videos on setup and plugged into the unit so I don't want to start ripping it all out.

I am a beginner at car audio but I enjoy taking on car DIY projects.

This is what I was going to do.
1. Remove old factory speakers.
2. Install sound proofing around speaker areas etc.. front and back.
3. Then decide on amplifier and speakers
I would quite like something similar to:

- For the fronts I would quite like something similar to Infinity Reference 6510CS components which Pottsy suggested and used in his how to guide.
- For the Rear speakers I would quite like something similar to 6.5” coaxial Speakers Infinity Kappa 62.7i as Munro in his how to guide suggested and used them. But if possible with me being a beginner I may be better getting the exact size replacements.

I don't want to spend to much money on my system but I do want fairly good quality sound and I would like the ability to add a sub at any stage in the future if I wanted to.

So the questions are:-

Q. Would I be able to use the following amplifier with my existing system and the updated speakers or similar suggested above?


Auna AMP-CH04 Car Amplifier 4 Channel 2800W Hifi System

• 4-channel car amplifier with 2800W max. Power - equivalent to 380W RMS
• High and low level inputs
• Adjustable low-pass filter
• Indirect blue LED light effect
• Resonant black chassis with silver trim strip

• Connections: 2x High-level input, 2x RCA stereo line input, 4 x stereo speaker output (screw terminals)
• Control range low-pass filter: 50Hz to 250Hz
• Adjustable gain
• X-Over (Full / LPF)
• Opportunity for the cable remote control
• Overheating protections
• Power LED
• Frequency response: 20 Hz to 20 kHz
• Signal to noise ratio:> 95dB
• Impedance: 4 to 16 ohms
• Input Sensitivity Line Level: 1 ~ 2 V @ 100 Ohm
• Input sensitivity low level: 0.1 ~ 1V @ 10k
• Power supply: 14.4 V

• 35 x 6 x 26cm
• Weight: approximately 3.2 kg

Auna AMP-CH04 Car Amplifier 4 Channel 2800W Hifi System: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

 

Auna AMP-CH04 Car Amplifier 4 Channel 2800W Hifi System: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

Q. If I can use the above amplifier would I then also need to use a LOC (line out converter)?

Q. Also with the kit above would I also still be able to add a sub in the future if I need/wanted to?

Do you think the above will be a decent improvement to my existing system and am I on the right lines and if so any suggestions/comments or answers to the above questions are much appreciated as I really am a beginner when it comes to car audio installs. Thanks in advance.

Peter.

[Nick7]

Yes, you can use that amplifier.
No, you don't need LOC (as amplifier has 'high' input).
Yes, you can add sub in future. You will need new amp for sub though.

Lastly.. 380W RMS for mid/high speakers (aka non-sub speakers) is a LOT. Actually WAY too much.

[CTR-PeteLFS]

Originally Posted by Nick7

Yes, you can use that amplifier.
No, you don't need LOC (as amplifier has 'high' input).
Yes, you can add sub in future. You will need new amp for sub though.

Lastly.. 380W RMS for mid/high speakers (aka non-sub speakers) is a LOT. Actually WAY too much.

Thanks Nick7 this is all good advice. I really only picked that amplifier due to it being a fairly decent price. In reference to you saying that "380W RMS for mid/high speakers (non sub) is a lot actually too much"

sorry for being a beginner but what exactly do you mean could this cause damage too speakers or do you mean it's just wasted as it too powerful? Hope you know what I am trying to say. May be I should look for a different amp if I would need to upgrade if I also added a sub?
Thanks.

[Nick7]

Well, if you crank it up, you'll most likely blow most of speakers with it

To put it into perspective, in my old car I had front&rear speakers connected to HU with LPF.
Sub was on separate amplifier.
I did manage to blow fuse for sub (30A one) while sound was still OK on stock HU (which is max 25W per channel... but even actually less than that).

Also as an example: tweeters take only few W of power before you'll fry them.

My point is only this: sub takes much more power to generate louder effect due to it needing to move much more air mass. Midrange&highs require quite a lot less power for high volume. Anything above 100W RMS for midrange/highs is VERY loud (can actually hurt your hearing).

[CTR-PeteLFS]

Thanks Nick7, I think I understand the problem is I am a beginner so it takes a bit to learn lol.
Sorry to ask you lots of questions but would I be better getting something like this then and this would still be using the speakers I mentioned in my first post.

Auna Compact 4-channel 600W In-Car Hifi Amplifier: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

 

Auna Compact 4-channel 600W In-Car Hifi Amplifier: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

I hope I have read this right but this amp produces 4x 30W RMS so would this be a safer option.
Then I can forget about a sub because thinking about it I would like good quality sound from my speakers but I don't really want to loose much space in the boot with a big sub. I really appreciate it if you could help, Thanks.