Subwoofer Sub Location and feed

[HumberMart]

Subject to the stuff being delivered on time, I'll be ripping the guts out of the SGT dash and doors this coming weekend to fit a Parrot kit, Connects2 Aux input, and Pioneer component speakers, including a powered sub.

No doubt I'll be making good use of all the very helpful guides and photos available on the forum.

I'm wondering where to fit the sub. It's a self contained powered unit about 10" dia, and 4" deep I think. So it's too large to fit in the footwell. I was thinking about under the rear seats, but not sure if they'll fold down with it underneath, better check I guess.

I'd rather keep it out of the boot, but perhaps it's the only place.

Power supply can come from the rear 12v outlet, and it accepts speaker level audio input, so I guess I could tap into the rear speaker supply. Has anyone taken the back side panels of a Type S to get to the rear speakers?

Any tips appreciated.

[m4rky]

I personally am going to fit a small Pioneer sub under the rear seat. It will stop it folding down properly but that doesn't bother me. I guess it depends on what you use your car for

As for powering the amp, I would take a direct fused feed straight from the battery and use the 12v supply at the rear for the ignition feed just to ensure you don't overlaod the cars wiring.

If you are fitting a Parrot kit, I would recommend using a SOT-908 as described by Swindon Jasper as it will plug straight in and you can take the speaker feeds for your sub from there which saves cutting the original loom. It looks something like this

[m4rky]

oops really sorry about the size of the picture - I'm not very good at this sort of thing! If anyone knows how to fix it please do

[HumberMart]

Fine by me....I like to get the big picture!

I'l prob go for under the seat, it will only affect one side, and hopefully I can make it removable if I'm ever lucky enough to need a perfectly flat bed

[m4rky]

Thats exactly what I thought Maybe mount it using 3M tape so that it can be taken off and leave an extra long cable to it

[Swindon Japster]

Check out my install in the how to section - How to install an entire Ice system. I think you midht struggle to make it 'easily' removable and the sub box will almost certainly have to be screwed up in order to secure it.

[psykik]

did you think about getting a stealth enclosure for the bass, so that it looks like its part of your boot?

[HumberMart]

With the help of the very useful photo guides on the forum, I completed a marathon ICE/Electronics upgrade on the new SGT at the weekend.

I installed a Parrot CK3000 kit purchased online for £56, plus £20 for the DIN adaptor, a £40 Connects2 Aux input convertor box, so that I can link my Garmin Nuvi 360 through the car speakers. I also built in a concealed power supply for the Nuvi to keep things nice and tidy. The only difficulty with this part was trying to get all the extra wires and boxes to fit in the available space. I did it, but wasn’t too happy with the way I just ‘shoved it in’, seeming a bit Heath-Robinson, and in fact it does now interfere with the smooth movement of the top hinged door on the centre console. Maybe I’ll try and ‘tidy it up’ if I have need to take the console out again.

The Parrot kit and Aux connection seem to work very well, and I would recommend them both.

The next thing was front speaker upgrades, and I was going to use the popular Infinities, but went down the Pioneer component route, due to deciding to fit a self contained Pioneer sub under the rear seats.

Originally I wasn’t intending to do anything with the rears, partly because I had read that it was necessary to take out the rear seats to get at the speakers, but I found this was not the case, and it was very easy to take off the arm rest and padded speaker panel in a matter of seconds.

I needed to take speaker level feeds for the sub, and tried to take these from the loom under the centre console, but could only find and identify the ones for the rear left. This resulted in me being forced to try and access the rear speakers and take a feed from there. Fortunately this was easier than expected as already mentioned.

Having accessed the rear speakers, I decided it was silly not to upgrade these as well, so I did so with some 130mm coax’s.

As recommended, I applied plenty of self adhesive sound proofing to the inside of both doors and rear side panels, and agree with others that the soundproofing itself is perhaps the most successful and worthwhile of all the upgrades.

The biggest challenge of all was running the 10 Amp feed direct from the battery. I followed the great instructions from Swindon Jasper, and wouldn’t have kept going with this one without them! The main problems were caused more by my lack of physical suppleness that anything else! Getting to that rubber grommet under the drivers side foot well is not easy (or comfortable!). I also struggled to get to where the wire emerged in the engine bay, but as soon as I had taken the black plastic cover off the top of the 2.2 it became much easier!

So It’s all up and running now, the sound system is adequate rather than startling, but I guess it’s about as good as it gets from the standard head unit, and for the £200 cost of components. I’ll try and post some photos later.

The only problem I’m now left with is an Airbag warning light that wont go off! I guess it’s due to all the wiring mods disturbing some sensor circuit. I’ll have to go cap in hand back to the dealer and be very embarrassed about doing all these DIY mods on a new car, unless anyone has any other advice………………..!

Thanks again to all those who wrote and took time to publish their guides.

[Swindon Japster]

Originally Posted by psykik

did you think about getting a stealth enclosure for the bass, so that it looks like its part of your boot?

Gave this some thought but wanted to keep maximum practicality. Stealth boxes ae useful but can be pricey.

[Swindon Japster]

Originally Posted by HumberMart

With the help of the very useful photo guides on the forum, I completed a marathon ICE/Electronics upgrade on the new SGT at the weekend.

I
The biggest challenge of all was running the 10 Amp feed direct from the battery. I followed the great instructions from Swindon Jasper, and wouldn’t have kept going with this one without them! The main problems were caused more by my lack of physical suppleness that anything else! Getting to that rubber grommet under the drivers side foot well is not easy (or comfortable!). I also struggled to get to where the wire emerged in the engine bay, but as soon as I had taken the black plastic cover off the top of the 2.2 it became much easier!


Thanks again to all those who wrote and took time to publish their guides.

Glad it was of use. Still really pleased with my upgrade although still have issues with quality of OE radio.

SJ

[HumberMart]

Originally Posted by Swindon Japster

Glad it was of use. Still really pleased with my upgrade although still have issues with quality of OE radio.

SJ

Yes I agree, and I wouldn't recommend spending more than £200 on upgrading the OE unit. I'm aware that you can fit signal processing and of course amps to the door speakers, but you can't make a silk purse etc. etc....

BTW Velcro seems to work very well to attach the sub to the carpet under the back seat, and makes it removable when required. (you only need to attach the 'hook' half to the sub, the carpet provides the 'loops' iteslf!)

[m4rky]

Nice one, I'm glad it all worked out ok for you