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Auto dim ambient blue lighting
Hi all, new to the site, but what a site!!
I've been thinking about attempting the mod in the how to section to add ambient footwell lighting, but really want the lighting to come on when the door is opened. Anyway, I think i may have a solution but require some help from you all. My proposed solution is this, to have 2 sets of LED's. The first set is attached to the interior lighting supply and so will come on with the interior lights. The second set is attached to the headlight supply (as described in the how to) and so comes on as soon as the headlights are switched on. This should give the following effect that when the car is unlocked and the interior lights come on, so do the 1st set of LED's. Then when you switch on the headlights, they should go out and be replaced by the 2nd set. So my real problem is this. I can rig up a set to the headlight switch no problems (I will incorporate a dimmer in this to be initially set and then left, will put the dimmer in the glove box). What i don't know how to do is find a feed from the interior light supply. Can anyone help or point me in the right direction? Thanks Anthony Last edited by crispy; 8th March 2007 at 23:47. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Could you (with the use of a one way transistor if my GCSE electronics proves me right) have one set of lights hooked up to both feeds.
That means you'd only need one set of LED's, the ones from the headlights via a dimmer and the interior lights not. I think to get an interior light feed you'll need to hook it up to the interior lights then run it down. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Cheers for the reply!
Possibly, but at a cost of 5 quid for the LED's I thought this might be a simple solution to the home fit auto dim problem. Think your probably right about the interior light feed, but just wanted to check. Anyway I have the kit bar the dimmer switch (struggling to find one with the maplin search) so I am going to attempt this soon! Just out of interest, has anyone fitted the lights without a dimmer? Do you really need a dimmer if they are positioned correctly? Cheers Anthony |
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#4 (permalink) |
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I've got a manual dimmer, and will post a thread in a second.
With them on full brightness; well they're not "bad" it depends how easily distracted you are, on any road with lights (even at night) they're fine, but on country roads I like to turn them down just a touch, I could live with them though. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Well just finished fitting them.
2 sets, one off the headlights, and another off the interior lights. I came of the back of the passenger map bulb holder in the end, it only took a few minutes to run the wires down in the balck plastic so looks a good fit I've also fitted the LED's for the 2 sets next to each other so hopefully it will give a good effect when they swap from one set to another will let you know if its any good... An added bonus/feature is that if I turn the passenger map light on the second set come on and you get double the brightness of footwell light.... I've not fitted the dimmer on the headlight set yet, will see how they are first. (can't wait for tonight!! Cheers for the post might need to use it... |
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#8 (permalink) |
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y not rig the whole lot up to the head lights and the interior lights? then you will only need one set of leds. just put a diode on each feed to prevent the circuits from crossing into the other?
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#9 (permalink) |
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Bog,
Will do when I get a chance, on holiday next week so can't do it then but it was fairly simple. Follow the existing 'how to for blue lights switched from headlights', however, I did it without removing the glove compartment door. Just pull the glove light down, feed a wire through, then attach all the LED wires to the fed wire and pull them through. You can then follow the rest of that guide. To fit the LED's from the interior light, remove the front interior light as detailed in the 'how to swap mic over' and connect a wire to the bulb fitting for the passenger interior light. Feed this wire around the roof trim, down the side of the windscreen and under the dashboard and fix the LED's next to the ones you just fiited above. Then your sorted! Gray52, What type of diode would I require? Also, for 4 LED's would the cost of the diode's out weigh the cost of a second pack of LED's? In theory I could have used 1 LED in each footwell but felt that would have been to dim so used 2. The 2 LED packs cost 10 pounds in total from halfords, so the cost is minmal. (it cost 11.52 for what Honda are charging 200 quid) Took less than 2 hours to fit. Either way, I now have blue footwell lights that come on with the interior lights (Blue led bulbs fitted) and also dim with the interior lights. Then, when I switch the headlights/sidelights on I have constant blue footwell lights Anyway would like to thank all the people who have wrote the how t o guides that enabled me to have the confidence to have a go at this! It really was simple to do, but made more so by the guides people have previously wrote!! |
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#10 (permalink) |
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any low current diode will do, they are about 20p each, and you it will stop the feed from each circuit crossing into each other so will get the correct power for each operation, eg doors opening or lights on.
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Cheers |
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#13 (permalink) |
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dont need a resistor as i will be using a variable 10k one and will be able to controll the brightness when the lightd are on.
i havent fitted the lights yet, hopefully next week when im on holiday |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Bog,
No Ihaven't added a resistor, they are the same brightness. Did think about this but wasn't too fussed as the brightness level is just right for me. (doesn't glare or bother me even on a dark country lane Another way of getting the same effect would be to place the interior powered LED's further forward in the footwell resulting in the appearance of brighter light. Gray, let me know how it goes with the diode/resistor as I might change them and move the spare set into the rear footwells then. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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That circuit will work EXCEPT...
If you open the door, you'll get a bright LED. If you have the headlights on and the doors closed, you'll get a dim LED. If you have the headlights on and you open the door, youll get an even dimmer LED because you have 12V coming down one path being met by X volts coming down the other one. The resultant voltage is 12v - Xv. Thats what I think anyway. Think about it like this, if youve got a remote control and you put both of the batteries in the same way round, it doesnt work does it. Thats cause youve got 1.5V meeting 1.5V. Last edited by itsrelfy; 17th March 2007 at 14:04. |
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#18 (permalink) | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
But won't the circuit take the path of least resistance and therefore take the full feed from the door circuit? (It is, afterall, the same power source i.e the same battery? |
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Bog,
To avoid any confusion, you might want to include in your diagram the current limiting resistors which are part of the led pack. I assume the led pack has resistors, otherwise your going to need some spare fuses. Itsrelfy, Quote:
Assuming diode voltage drop is 0.7v. If input A is at 12V and input B is at 11V, then the junction is at 12 - 0.7V = 11.3V. The diode in path B is reverse biased, ie, switched off. Last edited by pcr; 17th March 2007 at 14:54. |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Your right, Ive just simulated it on Microcap.
So this works because the bigger voltage effectively overcomes the smaller one, reverse biasing that diode and shutting that path off??? Ive only just started on the electronics thing, forgive my ignorance!!! |
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