CTR Upgraded Clutch?

[DaniFN2]

I have a competition clutch and its fantastic. As Jerry says its not built for traffic.

[stoney]

Stage 4?

Whats mods have you

[Farboss]

How much to get this clutch fitted does anyone know thanks?

[pigdog]

Originally Posted by DaniFN2

I have a competition clutch and its fantastic. As Jerry says its not built for traffic.

Your car not a road car then?

[DaniFN2]

My OEM clutch was on its last legs and the plan is to supercharge my FN at some point. Rather than fit a normal clutch then fit another one once the supercharging was done I opted just to fit the CC.
Yes it is a road car.

[Mugged Off]

Originally Posted by DaniFN2

My OEM clutch was on its last legs and the plan is to supercharge my FN at some point. Rather than fit a normal clutch then fit another one once the supercharging was done I opted just to fit the CC.
Yes it is a road car.

Dani's getting a charger! Shaun's saving money with his slow ass 115mpg insight and you're planning on destroying the savings with a charger!

[DaniFN2]

Lol! Jerry, must only specification is that its faster than yours! Just kidding, there's lots to think about such as brakes, sorting my intake etc before I sort the charger out. It may take me a good year to sort it, at least I don't have to worry about the clutch!

[Mugged Off]

Your going to need wads of cash if you're charging. I'm now a broken man, charging my car has ****ed me, I probably wouldn't do it again given the chance.

[DaniFN2]

That's the thing, so expensive. Or do I save a deposit for a new type r when it comes out in 2015?

[KoMMA]

I post here my opinion.

I have this clutch (Exedy Organic Stage 1) on my FN2. Coupling it's much better than OEM clutch and pedal feels harder (I like it). For fast road drive it's a good choice.

BUT, for city drive or parking it's, to me, a bad choice.

Regards

[The_Black_Hawk]

Well I have to say my latest mod has left me feeling very disappointed, I've recently had a Wavetrac LSD fitted to my CTR 58 plate and as its done 45k miles I decided on the advice of TDI Thurrock to go with a complete new clutch and flywheel, they recommended a Toda set up but I couldn't afford it so settled for a Stage 2 competition clutch and so the nightmare began. I collected it from Essex and the first 20miles I thought wow what a difference even though the biting point was very very low and there was a strange whirring noise present, I thought that was the new LSD. I parked up at a pub to have lunch and it crunched into 1st gear whilst parking and got stuck in reverse. Got back in and continued on homeward all seemed fine but as I came off the motorway and stepped down a few gears so the drama began. It was very stiff and felt like the clutch wasnt disengaging fully. Got home and tried it the next day and all seemed fine again until I came off the motorway and tried to park up it locked in 1st and then in reverse. I was 60 miles from home......... not good. Again on route home a few hours later all appeared fine but about 20-30 miles inward when I came into heavy traffic the gears were stiff and crunching in 5th gear. It got so bad I wasnt even able to change gears at one point and with pedal fully depressed the car was still crawling forward. Got home amazingly with a few more clunks and crunches along the way. Contacted TDI and they said to bring it back and they would have a look. I live 60+ miles away so had to pay for a recovery vehicle so am now £200 down. The dilemma being TDI have had it all apart on the test bench and are adamant its nothing to do with the new clutch. I am no expert so cant comment but a car thats done 45k of which 39 are whilst Ive owned it has never missed a single beat and 20 miles into a new setup is either real bad luck or I am not getting the whole story. The guys there have been great but I need this fixed, they say its a problem with the clutch slave / master cylinders so Ive booked in to my local Honda service centre to have a look (more money :O() Does anyone know about this clutch and flywheel set up as its left me feeling very flat and frustrated that Ive spent all this money had to fork out for a recovery vehicle and the car still isnt right. The biting point is abnormally low and after a while on the motorway the down changes are stiff. Ive had a mugen quickshift installed at the same time but they assure me its nothing to do with either this or the new clutch. Any advice would be greatly appreciated and this has not been the great experience I was hoping it to be despite all the efforts of the guys at TDI its not been resolved so I am either very very unlucky or this piece of kit really isnt up to standard????? Sorry forgot to add for all those considering an upgrade don't be fooled into thinking the OEM isn't up to the task, if like me you're just going for better handling and not increasing the bhp significantly why change sommat that aint broke? If you're doing track days like me occasionally the stock one is fine IMHO, I've got the old one back and for the adbuse its had on 3-4 track days its looking pretty resilient to me!?

[dweezle]

Will be waiting for an update on this as mine has been getting stuck in reverse and then i had the clutch squeak (AGAIN) so if it is the cylinders honda can have mine back.
Sorry for no input on the cause of your problem but shouldn't the garage sort this seeing as it went in working but left knackered

[stoney]

Exactly, it worked before the clutch and not after, doesn't take a degree pal

Put pressure on them and make sure it's fixed

[devil84]

Originally Posted by The_Black_Hawk

Well I have to say my latest mod has left me feeling very disappointed, I've recently had a Wavetrac LSD fitted to my CTR 58 plate and as its done 45k miles I decided on the advice of TDI Thurrock to go with a complete new clutch and flywheel, they recommended a Toda set up but I couldn't afford it so settled for a Stage 2 competition clutch and so the nightmare began. I collected it from Essex and the first 20miles I thought wow what a difference even though the biting point was very very low and there was a strange whirring noise present, I thought that was the new LSD. I parked up at a pub to have lunch and it crunched into 1st gear whilst parking and got stuck in reverse. Got back in and continued on homeward all seemed fine but as I came off the motorway and stepped down a few gears so the drama began. It was very stiff and felt like the clutch wasnt disengaging fully. Got home and tried it the next day and all seemed fine again until I came off the motorway and tried to park up it locked in 1st and then in reverse. I was 60 miles from home......... not good. Again on route home a few hours later all appeared fine but about 20-30 miles inward when I came into heavy traffic the gears were stiff and crunching in 5th gear. It got so bad I wasnt even able to change gears at one point and with pedal fully depressed the car was still crawling forward. Got home amazingly with a few more clunks and crunches along the way. Contacted TDI and they said to bring it back and they would have a look. I live 60+ miles away so had to pay for a recovery vehicle so am now £200 down. The dilemma being TDI have had it all apart on the test bench and are adamant its nothing to do with the new clutch. I am no expert so cant comment but a car thats done 45k of which 39 are whilst Ive owned it has never missed a single beat and 20 miles into a new setup is either real bad luck or I am not getting the whole story. The guys there have been great but I need this fixed, they say its a problem with the clutch slave / master cylinders so Ive booked in to my local Honda service centre to have a look (more money :O() Does anyone know about this clutch and flywheel set up as its left me feeling very flat and frustrated that Ive spent all this money had to fork out for a recovery vehicle and the car still isnt right. The biting point is abnormally low and after a while on the motorway the down changes are stiff. Ive had a mugen quickshift installed at the same time but they assure me its nothing to do with either this or the new clutch. Any advice would be greatly appreciated and this has not been the great experience I was hoping it to be despite all the efforts of the guys at TDI its not been resolved so I am either very very unlucky or this piece of kit really isnt up to standard????? Sorry forgot to add for all those considering an upgrade don't be fooled into thinking the OEM isn't up to the task, if like me you're just going for better handling and not increasing the bhp significantly why change sommat that aint broke? If you're doing track days like me occasionally the stock one is fine IMHO, I've got the old one back and for the adbuse its had on 3-4 track days its looking pretty resilient to me!?

Hi bud,

Sorry to hear about your dilemma. Just FYI, I am selling a TODA race clutch and TODA lightweight flywheel. I bought my FN2 from a member on here, and He ran this clutch/flywheel on his 308bhp FN2. He originally had a competition clutch stage 4 on the charger! But had issues with that, so he removed that and fitted this clutch in instead! (over £1000 new)

History: I bought the FN2 a month ago without the CT supercharger, so I found that the toda clutch is a bit overkill for me, as I never track the car anyway. The member told me it was fitted at approx 21k miles (got copy of invoice somewhere), I took it off last Saturday at just under 30k miles, so its done just under £10k miles. Have a look at my sale thread here.


http://www.civinfo.com/forum/items-s...-r-clutch.html

PS: my FN2 also has a WAVETRAC LSD, and dont have any issues that you are experencing. I also have a Mugen Short Shifter, and agian no issues when this clutch was on. Just found it a bit "grabby". I can PM you the members name if you want to verify anything as he drove the FN2 for 9,000 with this set up.

FYI Group buy that was organised...
http://www.civinfo.com/forum/torque-...lutch-kit.html

[The_Black_Hawk]

Cheers guys thanks for all the feedback and your offer, greatly appreciated but I am going to suck it and see for the time being, in hindsight maybe the TODA one would have been the better option but as I stressed in the begining this is a 95% of the time a standard road driving car that does 3-4 track days a year so I don't want a really aggressive clutch with all that M25 car park I cover each week would drive me mental. I don't really feel I can justify any further expenditure at present as I spent over double my original budget getting carried away after chatting with a guy at Brands Hatch and the LSD upgrade he had saying best upgrade he ever did! So I will see what happens in the short term with the CC Stage 2 as fitted. The feedback from Honda was interesting, they charged me £50 to have a look and re bleed the system (still means I am over £250 down ouch that's almost a new HKS intake ha ha will have to settle for a new HKS panel filter for the OEM air box in lieu!). They bled it through 3 times to be 100% sure all the air was out of the system so that could be ruled out, they definitely don’t think it’s the hydraulics that are faulty. In fairness they admitted they aren’t too familiar with the Competition Clutch but a guy there did specialise in track day upgrades in a former life so he had a good look and he thinks it’s more likely to be a combination of the pressure plate being a lot thinner than the stock clutch kit and the fact that the thrust bearing can sometimes 'move'??? which can create problems when disengaging . Hopefully it won’t move again but I guess time will tell. It would seem it gets worse after a long journey which is very strange (is it a heat build-up issue???) I guess the only thing I can do is keep driving it and see what happens, if the problem reoccurs not really sure what to do short of putting the old one back with a new plate but what a waste of money? Does anyone else have similar issues post fitting of this clutch as I am tempted to approach CC direct and query is the product actually 'fit for purpose?' if there’s a likelihood the thrust bearing can move as the body of the clutch is thinner this just doesn’t make sense to me???

[R555]

Originally Posted by Mugged Off

Your going to need wads of cash if you're charging. I'm now a broken man, charging my car has ****ed me, I probably wouldn't do it again given the chance.

You'd stay NA Jerry?

[Mugged Off]

Originally Posted by R555

You'd stay NA Jerry?

Knowing how much money and stress charging was for me I would have stayed N/A. Given that, although I'm still skint as ****, I still love my charger, and destroying most things on the road 2, 3, 4 times the price of my FN2 still gives me the best buzz ever.

[The_Black_Hawk]

Since taking my car to local Honda dealer and having the cltch bled through fully 3 times all appears to be working fine now I think they must have disturbed the hydraulic cylinders on clutch removal / replacement and as the biting point is so low there was no room for tolereance so the clutch simply wouldnt disengage. Havent done any great miles yet so still not 100% all is fixed but a useful point for others to watch out for I could have saved myself the £200 trailer trip back to the original garage hey ho it was always a gamble??? If you charge all that money to change a clutch you think they would rebleed the system so it works properly or was this really a one off case???

[cvega]

how long should a OEM clutch last before it shows signs of wear? I know this is purely down to driving but assuming average driving ? weekly commute + a weekend VTEC blast?

[edd]

Originally Posted by Mugged Off

As it's been said here before, the OEM flyweel is fine, no need to change it, although I would consider just skimming it whilst it is out.

I actually changed my OEM one for a lighter one. The weight difference when i held both in my hand was staggering. Acceleration is noticeably quicker but revs drop quicker as well.

My OEM clutch is now in the bin.