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| This thread is about: Replacing Front and Rear Brake Pads (merged), it's in Wheels, Tyres, Suspension and Brakes at the Honda Civic forum Civinfo; Originally Posted by daviep.sco Hi I am going to have a go at looking at my front and rear brakes tomorrow, is it an easy ... | ||
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#21 (permalink) | |
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Enthusiastic Supporter
Magic Rear Seat
Join Date: 25th August 2006
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Quote:
Patience Pottsy as soon as I post we can clean up and create a proper howto |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Supporter
Valve Cap
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I had a look at mine today, the rear pads look as though I am going to need to replace them, near side is tatally scrapped, think it may have had a problem since it was new. I am going to mention it to the dealer when I phone them tomorrow as I only picked up the car on Thursday.
Anyone bought new ones and if so where and how much? |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Enthusiastic Supporter
Magic Rear Seat
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See link in the post by PTR (Search!!!) - these were the cheapest I could find - I dont recommend pattern parts or uprated.
My nearside went first (strange) and the dealer said a 50% difference in wear was acceptable!!!!!!! |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Valve Cap
Join Date: 23rd April 2007
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what you'll find with the new hondas is that the rear pads are thinner and that's why they wear out faster.
If the brakes are similar to the Accord, then you'll probably have slight binding issues in the rear which cause accelerated wear. I noticed this on the Accord at about 5K miles.....I took the pads out and cleaned the guide pins and lubricated them. Pads lasted until 50K miles all round after that...when it came time to replace I did all four sides....I have heard some people wear out the pads in as little as 20K miles due to this issue. |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Enthusiastic Supporter
Magic Rear Seat
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Although I agree that well lubed and clean pins are essential for efficient as well as an extended pad life - mine wore out at 12k and did not appear to be binding. If this is the case its another issue for Honda to sort.
The accelerated wear on one side would indicate binding but again this was not apparent! Rear pads are not only thinner but also a smaller surface area and so the life would be reduced if the load was the same as the front calipers. However the load on the rear pads is less (due to wt transfer to the front of the vehicle less force is required to 'lock up' the pads) so life should be better than the fronts (give or take) Last edited by Miggins; 25th April 2007 at 23:45. |
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#26 (permalink) |
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Locking Wheelnut
Join Date: 3rd September 2006
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balls...
I have posted this to an extent else ware and thanks to Jedi71 for replying so quickly there. I am afraid I need to call to arms the wisdom of some if not all of my fellow Civic heads...
Does anyone know if the civic Icdti should be eating front pads and tyres at the rate it does, I know people with BMW M3's that get more out of there rear tyres than I get out of my fronts. Also isn't 12,500 miles ridiculously low milage for a 140bhp (admittedly high tq) car to be eating it's pads this fast. My mates 130bhp diesel Focus's and meganes and golf's all seem to be getting twice this milage out of the front pads and tyres. I love my civic but the bloody thing is starting to eat me out of house and home. Incidentally the rear pads have been replaced at 25,000 miles (also over half worn). Not uniformed jibes about driving style please... I am an M4 warrior... 11,000 of the last 12,500 miles have been spent on the motorway doing 75ish... so I just don't get why the Civic hates it's fronts so much. I have noticed chirping form the brakes even when i am going in a straight line... Hit the VSA button to off and for the most part the chirping goes. Even after short journey's there is a lot of heat in the front wheels. My steering wheel is misaligned slightly so that if I steer the car straight it looks as if i am turning left ever so slightly in the cabin, i.e. if held with the steering at the visual centre the car turns to the right i.e. away from the camber (enough for most motorway bends in-fact). Understandably the dealer has kindly offered me the advice that it is my driving that is to blame, fair enough, but I don't drive 'crabwise' down the M4 so how does it all ware so fast?... In other words Please help... Cheers Elis P.S. I also just remembered that the chirping becomes far less when the wheel is at the optical centre. I remember reading a thread that said about there being a steering wheel angle sensor? Is this a fallacy? or could the misalignment of the steering mean that my car VSA(EBD?) is always thinking that it is going round a bend and fighting to help me go round a bend even though I am just going straight ahead... though I admit that this is really clutching now. It would make sense in a way as even when going straight my satnav (EX civic not Tomtom) seems to think that i am going left i.e. on a straight ahead road the screen shows the road kinking left slightly, my work tomtom shows the road straight and true... Would this also not help to explain the higher ware rate... Mum's got a 140bhp diesel A4 estate, heavier car and right foot. I get better MPG but she has been getting 24,000 miles out of her fronts and at 35,000 miles no sign of needing new pads... I am starting to thing that these new Civic pads are made of bloody recycled bog roll or something... Oh Yeah, not the biggest tech head, but I have understood 99.5% of what has been said so far... It is just if an accord can manage 30,000 ish miles why can't my lovely star-ship |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Magic Rear Seat
Join Date: 5th September 2006
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Elis, this won't help much but I would drive on your M4 for say half an hour without using brakes then pull into services also without braking, yes you can do this. If the brake discs are warm, then I would be concerned.
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#28 (permalink) |
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Locking Wheelnut
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preety much I have tried this and the brake disks are warm. I have a three mile trip into town with 5 points at which very light breaking is needed and they are hot not warm by then!
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#29 (permalink) |
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12th June 2006 1.8EX
Rocketship door handle
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Elis I have just checked on the service sheet from my first service, I have not done a high mileage (5500) but most of it has been done on mixed dual carriageway/town driving and the mech has marked the brake pads as 10% worn on both fronts and 5% worn on the rears. This extrapolates to 50000 miles for the fronts which would be fantastic but unbelievable even so I would imagine at least 22000 from them.
The front tyres where marked as having 7mm of tread and the rears 8mm. Note all of the above is for a 1.8 and not a 2.2 although I would not have expected a dramatic difference. |
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#30 (permalink) | |
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Locking Wheelnut
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thanks woolyciv i would agree some difference would be expected but not a halfing...
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cheers all... |
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#31 (permalink) |
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Valve Cap
Join Date: 23rd April 2007
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yep..but i do all the brake work on the car myself...i don't trust others after a so called 'dealer' did a brake job and all they did was goop anti seize on the open bits of the brake pads that you can see through the caliper!!
I have heard some owners of the Accord who have worn through pads after 20K due to slight binding issues |
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#32 (permalink) |
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Magic Rear Seat
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Alnug,
Same goes for me, replacing pads is an ideal opportunity to clean and check everything, grease handbrake connections, brake pipes, etc., garages/dealers don't seem to do this. My daughter had pads fitted by dealer who left the backing paper on the pads and lost one of the shims, put me off for good. |
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#33 (permalink) | |
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Locking Wheelnut
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Quote:
mind you i would put up with binding issues if it meant i would only have to give the beast new pads only every other service... |
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#34 (permalink) | |
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Rocketship door handle
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Quote:
Front brakes 20% wear. Rears 10% wear. Front tyres 4 mm Rears 5 mm. |
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#35 (permalink) |
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Locking Wheelnut
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I think therefore that maybe I may need to were thinner soled shoes
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#36 (permalink) | |
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Enthusiastic Supporter
Magic Rear Seat
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Quote:
seems my brakes are down to the wear (squeal) indicators on the nearside rear again - and I have only just past the 20K mark - not at all happy. Something is seriously wrong with the set up of the/my Civic for this to be happening on one brake/wheel - I could understand it if it was both wheels on the same axle |
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#37 (permalink) |
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Magic Rear Seat
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Changed the front pads today myself today and I was suprised how easy it was
Most of my local motor factors did not stock the pads (inc Halfords), so I had to get them from Honda - £45 inc VAT. For that you get 4 pads, 2 piston shims, 4 new bolts and 4 4 pad guides. I took about half an hour per wheel including getting the wheels off! The best thing about it isw that I did not have to pay the stealers the quotes £150 |
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#38 (permalink) |
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Comedian/Smart A*se
Civinfo guru
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BMW 5 Series use a 'mini drum' for the handbrake, it is a useless idea and never actually held the car on any kind of a slope.
Tom |
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#40 (permalink) |
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Valve Cap
Join Date: 15th February 2008
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Going to be replacing my rears pads tomorrow - just hoping that the pistons are right hand thread as I've only got a regular wind back tool... Will try to take some photos if it would be of help...?
As far as wear rates go, my 06 1.8 sport is on 39.5k miles so far and I've replaced the following Front Pads @ 26k (Replaced with Genuine Honda Spares) Front Tyres @ 20k (Replaced with Bridgestone RE050s) Front Tyres @ 38.5k (Replaced with Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymetricos) Rear Pads @ 39.5k (Replaced with Genuine Honda Spares) Rear Tyres Originals still on, 4.5mm left with 2 puncture repairs Disappointed with the wear rates of both sets of fronts so far, although cost per mile was better for the bridgestones as they came in at half the price of the standard tyres |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Front end knock/tap when brake/accelerate/turn | spacecadet | Wiki Article Discussion | 0 | 8th October 2007 14:56 |
| front and rear brake pads? | valmiki | Holdcroft Honda | 13 | 10th September 2007 |