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| This thread is about: Replacing Front and Rear Brake Pads (merged), it's in Wheels, Tyres, Suspension and Brakes at the Honda Civic forum Civinfo; Has anyone undertaken this task yet? I have just ordered a full replacement set of pads from JPease (£68 + deliv) and wanted to know ... | ||
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#1 (permalink) |
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Enthusiastic Supporter
Magic Rear Seat
Join Date: 25th August 2006
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Replacing Front and Rear Brake Pads (merged)
Has anyone undertaken this task yet?
I have just ordered a full replacement set of pads from JPease (£68 + deliv) and wanted to know if a Wind Back Tool is required for the rear calipers. If so what size/pin configuration is required please? Will the small 1" cube adapters work? Or will it be a piece of whittled wood, 2 nails and some cable ties again? Many thanks |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Triangular Exhaust
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Cable ties could be used to support the caliper when it is removed to stop the weight of the caliper damaging the flexible hose?
Anyway, what sort of mileage before needing new pads? On my previous Civic Type-S front would have been due at the next service, the car having done just over 30k miles. Fixed price was £80, half the pads and half labour. I would imaging the pads at the rear are much smaller, so should be slightly cheaper, but labour would be much the same. Seems surprising front and rear need doing at together, usually the rears don't do a lot of work compared to the front. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Magic Rear Seat
Join Date: 4th October 2006
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Quote:
Miggins! Probably you drive so hard that the VSA is working a lot and that's why the rear pads are worn also! (at understeering the corner inside rear wheel is braked to turn the car in) |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Magic Rear Seat
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Its surprising how well strangers know me!
This is the second vehicle I have had where the rear pads have needed replacing at the same time as the fronts. Honda Northampton quoted approx £170+ for the pads and labour and £45 (fr ) + £37 (rr) plus VAT for just the pads. Hence why I was chuffed at £68 (inc VAT) + deliv from JPease (they also stated they were surprised at the rears wearing out at the same time ~ 12500miles) More than happy with the OEM pads on the Civic but will look at alternatives in future, however, Green pads tend to be more expensive and don't these need to get up to a working temperature? I don't believe its the VSA causing such high wear on the rears, it's more likely the EBA which comes in when I don't want/expect/need it. I know how to brake hard but don't appreciate the car braking even harder!!!! (I don't notice the VSA light coming on - that often! Cable ties to hold the caliper - never. They were to stop the nails splitting the wood |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Enthusiastic Supporter
Magic Rear Seat
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Ah, humour!
I was advised to sell it on ebay but being an engineer, I value and look after my tools (btw my dad's a cabinet maker and he hasn't seen my creation yet - ho ho!) Here's the picture: (It works a treat!) Last edited by Miggins; 7th January 2007 at 20:27. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Magic Rear Seat
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#13 (permalink) |
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Magic Rear Seat
Join Date: 4th October 2006
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for me is not 100% clear what you are doing wit this well "specialHondatool"
you push back the brake cylinders or what? why do you need it only on the back? (probably this questions seems to be stupid but I'm not that stupid |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Enthusiastic Supporter
Magic Rear Seat
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As you seem to be still online
Vehicles fitted with disc brakes all around need a mechanical handbrake the same as all others. This is easy for drum brakes - a simple lever/cam works quite well. On disc brakes this isn't as easy and is accomplished by a lever/cam working on one of the inner pads (nothing special) however as soon as you apply the handbrake the piston behind the opposite pad is pushed back in and there is not an effective braking force. To overcome this the rear pistons must work on a ratchet mechanism to ensure that as the pad wears the ratchet takes up the 'play', rotating the inner piston out which ensures that when the handbrake is applied the whole piston assembly is only allowed to move a short distance before stopping (as it has reached the maximum travel back within the hydraulic bore). The mechanism is basically a cylinder that rotates (friction keeping it in place) out away from the hydraulic piston.. When you need to replace the rear pads you must first ensure the rear pistons are fully retracted - to do this you must wind the inner piston back in relative to the hydraulic piston. It is a simple rotary action but the nature and location of brakes pistons usually it requires a bit of a push. It can be a pig to do even with the right tool. The rear piston faces are keyed to take a tool to do this - commonly known as a Wind Back Tool. They can be as cheap as £6. Hope I've explained it well? * Just remembered there is a ratchet to stop the shoes going back in on drum brakes but this works as part of the main braking mechanism as well. ** Some vehicles have a small drum brake fitted just for the handbrake - not familiar with this! Last edited by Miggins; 7th January 2007 at 23:41. Reason: Drum brake comment added |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Magic Rear Seat
Join Date: 4th October 2006
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Quote:
at BMWs I've seen such extra drum for the handbrake! (and rear discs were -also- HUGE! |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Magic Rear Seat
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Drums are more than adequate for rear axle braking but we all want discs, so the manufacturers then have to try and fit a viable handbrake.
My drive is slightly sloping and I've always had to leave cars with full disc brakes in gear - the handbrakes (inc the Civics) are not confidence inspiring. Never had this problem with drum brakes. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Valve Cap
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Change the front and rear Brake pads
Hi
I am going to have a go at looking at my front and rear brakes tomorrow, is it an easy job, my rear discs look a bit rusty and I am a bit worried the pads are not coming on correctly, don't want to leave it too long and cause more problems! Cheers |
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