Brakes Changing rear pads / discs - Civinfo

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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 8th November 2016, 10:43 Thread Starter
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Changing rear pads / discs

Hi guys,

These have just failed my M.O.T and garage want £204 for changing them. Is this a fair price or should i change myself.

They are also trying to get me to change the front two pads for an extra £100.

I've done front discs and pads on previous cars but my question is. Is the process the same for rear brakes on the civic?

I've seen this guide which i might follow.

http://www.civinfo.com/forum/how/325...rake-pads.html

I'm tempted to just say no and drive it away, do it myself and re-mot it Friday.

Any advice would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 8th November 2016, 10:54
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Disks and pads on the rear are relatively easy especially if you have a piston wind back tool - can be sourced <£20 and makes the job so much easier.

The price quote is a bit steep, is it a dealer or indi?

Check the price of disks and pads for your vehicle and then judge what to do.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 8th November 2016, 10:56 Thread Starter
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It's a brakes 4 life quote from Halfords.

I have a wind back tool for the civic but never used it.

I think parts wise it comes to £60 all in for pads and disc from ECP.

If my MOT expires on the 12th, Saturday, where do i stand insurance wise to get it re-MOT'd the following week?
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 8th November 2016, 18:04
 
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Once your MOT expires, you can only drive it on a road, to or from a station for a PRE-ARRANGED test. Sorry to shout, but it must be booked in so it can be checked if you get stopped by the Police/ANPR activation.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 8th November 2016, 19:51
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Took me about 1.5-2 hours to do all four corners knew brake disks and pads. Piston wind in tool is a must for ease and quickness.

If u have done it on another car before then our civics are no different. Why shell out all that cash when like u say u can do it for £60.

Try and get a re test booked in for Monday and do the work over the weekend. Save your self a tonne of cash. I've trained my 14 year old daughter to do civic pads and disks now so I'm sure u will have no problems

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 10th November 2016, 08:26
 
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I'm with the others. £204 seems a lot! Think I got bits from Andrew Page for about £60 and a morning in the sun changing them over. It was pretty straightforward. I clamped the brake pipe when winding the caliper piston in after some reports of inverting master cylinder seals; letting the extra out through the bleed screw. I got a caliper wind back tool from Andrew Page too, but they sell the same thing in Halfords. The biggest problem I had was getting one side off cos i'd left the handbrake on (DUR)
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 11th November 2016, 12:40
 
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I've just done my rear discs and pads for the first time and the first side side took a couple of hours and the other 30 minutes. I was told that the discs would need replacing but the pads were still okay and as I had a "pads for life" deal with one of the big tyre dealers I was tempted to put the old pads back on but just be on the safe side I bought some Borg and Beck pads from Amazon for £18. I was glad I did because on comparing the old pads with the Borg and Beck there was a huge difference in quality, so I'm tempted to think that these brakes for life deals could be a bit of scam. In my view brakes are one of those areas of car maintenance where you don't want to go for the cheapest option.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 11th November 2016, 12:53
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Sounds good mate. Those brakes for life deals are a scam anyway as to my knowledge it's only the parts that come free, and the labour they slap on and charge u for.

Considering the actual cost of parts it relatively low, they are still making a killing out of whilst also probably telling you that u need knew tyres, exhaust, batteries etc everytime u go back.

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 11th November 2016, 15:36 Thread Starter
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Hi guys,

Managed to get the brakes and disc off but having trouble winding the piston back in, it won't budge at all with the wind back tool.

Do I need to remove the brake fluid lid in engine bay?
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 11th November 2016, 17:36
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You are winding the piston back the right way? - clockwise if i remember correctly...

Sometimes you need to apply a bit of pressure at the right point until it engages and then starts winding back in.

http://www.civinfo.com/forum/how/274...-pads-how.html
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 11th November 2016, 18:35 Thread Starter
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Done it, greased the moving bolts to. All on but braking seems worse lol, handbrake gone very weak to.

I have the driver side rear to do tomorrow is that why braking now feels very soft?? And handbrake??
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 11th November 2016, 20:12
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Braking shouldn't feel worse. Get them both changed and do a 4 corner brake bleed. Did u remember to give the disks a good clean with brake cleaner as I believe they have an oily coating on them to stop them rusting before sale. If there is any of this left on u may need to burn it off with some hard breaking once your all done.

Your handbrake shldnt have changed either, did u definitely remember to secure the end of the handbrake cable to the calliper when u put it all together? Sorry to ask a silly question but when I did mine, due to the more meat being on the disks and pads, I didn't have to pull the handbrake up as far to get a good lock.

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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 11th November 2016, 20:16 Thread Starter
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Yea all went back okay.

Searching around seems loads have issues, and seems to auto adjust over time.

I'll do otherside and see how it feels.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 11th November 2016, 20:51
 
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In the Eric the car video he mentions that soft brakes can be due to the caliper piston not being aligned correctly with the lug on the pads so it might be worth checking to see if that's okay.
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 11th November 2016, 20:53 Thread Starter
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Lug?
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 11th November 2016, 21:28
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The pin on the back of the rear pads.

It sits in a groove within the rear piston.
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 11th November 2016, 21:30 Thread Starter
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Ah I never took note tbh, I'll have a check tomorrow
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 11th November 2016, 22:01
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An independent would normally charge around £50 + parts for rears, £40 + parts for Fronts.... Just the pads is less, it's a 30 min job.
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 12th November 2016, 13:56 Thread Starter
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Damnnnnn,

So the bottom bolt that goes into the calliper bracket, has snapped off inside the bracket.

I'm struggling to budge it, I guess I'm going to need a new bracket now unkess anyone has any tips?

Where can I get a bracket from at short notice?

MOT runs out Monday arghhhh
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 13th November 2016, 10:48
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If a bolt has sheared inside the mount which holds the calipers, can't u drill it out use a new bolt that came with the brake pads??

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