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Clutch pedal removal for blower motor repair

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20K views 43 replies 12 participants last post by  Hemingway1975 
#1 ·
Hi, does anyone have any experience with the removal of the clutch pedal to replace the blower motor. I have already removed the centre console and trim and can see the blower motor, I just have no clue with regards the pedal.

Does it need totally removing and can I cause more problems in doing so?

Any pics or instructions would be great if anyone can help.

Thanks
 
#2 ·
i had to remove fully but was told you can do it by just mooving to side
it was still tight for me with the pedal remooved
the hardest part i found was getting the wiring retainer from the top
its fiddly and iritating but not really that hard wouldnt really want to be doing it very often but id rather do it myself that pay a garage
as for causing more problems id say unless your really ruff no you should be ok
do you have a manual it may help
 
#3 ·
+1 for wiring.... total pig the first time to remove.

Pedal is easy enough job though.
 
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#7 ·
Just an update for anyone interested, I finally got round to replacing my blower motor, it all went easy enough and the job was fairly simple, the only issue I had was putting the pin back in the rear of the clutch pedal!! after about 100+ attempts I dropped it behind the carpet and had to buy another one which went in first try?? Thinking I probably just needed the break.

Many thanks to all on the forums for there help.
 
#11 ·
You don't need to rebleed as it's sealed and you won't be disturbing the fluid.....
 
#15 ·
Bit of a necro post but hopefully helps someone else with this issue.

Just spent eight hours on a gravel drive in 27c sun replacing the blower on my RHD 2008 FN2 Type-R. It was grim. Everything is next to impossible to get to, tight as a duck's bum and a complete faff. Couldn't work out how to get the clutch pedal completely off so shifted it up and to the right and just managed it.

Some hints not mentioned elsewhere (that I could find).

1. Duct tape over the hole the steering column goes into in the footwell.. lots of wee important things are attracted to it.

2. This fits and works.. delivery was OK for me (8 days to UK) but there are horror stories..

3. After you take out the pin at the back of the clutch pedal you also have to remove the rod it was holding in place. That's what connects the pedal to the master cylinder piston. It slides out to the left. Much less painfull to get it and the pin back in before bolting the assembly back to the bulkhead. (Once you get it back out of the steering column hole 😔)

4. The cables attached to the top of the clutch pedal assembly are way up top and stop it moving freely. Need to be on your back with really long needle nose pliers to properly release it or long scissors to bodge it by cutting the wings off the clip.

5. Those carpet retainer posts really hurt when you lean on them. Cover them.

6. Good luck. I'm ruined; covered in bruises and cuts and so knackered I went to get my dinner out the oven only to find I'd accidentally put it back in the fridge ;)
 
#16 ·
How did you know it was your blower motor that was knackered. Mine doesn’t work only low or not at all mostly, it only blows slightly when the air con is switched on, but hardly blows, how do you fault find to the blower or did you just replace and hope it was just the blower motor?
 
#26 ·
I have changed the resistor, yes no joy, still dead. I tapped the blower started up and spluttered to a stand still. I have asked for a quote of a autolec who specialises in this type of stuff or do it my self. I’m in two minds of either buying non OEM or second hand of eBay. If it’s a pig of a job I don’t want it packing up a few months down the line. I am not looking forward to this at all.
 
#18 ·
if the resistor goes the blower will almost certainly still work on full power anything else will probably be the motor
the job is a bitch but not really hard its the tight space and unseen clips bits that make it a sod
im nearly 6 foot with a dodgy back so that made it hard for me
 
#28 ·

More information in the link above
 
#29 ·
Yeah I have read all these to the point they are bible. It doesn’t detract that this is going to be a test off a job or very costly labour jobby. OEM blower is £270 odd from cox, crazy money, found a couple non OEM on AUTODOC, dont fancy a second hand one and it going in 4 months and being back in the same position, you don’t know mileage of car it’s been removed from.
 
#35 ·
I've changed the blower motor now, was a bit fiddly with the clutch and the pin, but managed to get it done.

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Cars running a bit rough and acceleration feels very jumpy and like I've got a flat tyre, not sure if I've forgotten to plug something back in or it's because the battery has been out for 6hrs and I've knocked setting out from the ECU.

BUT MY GOD IT'S GOOD TO FEEL AIRCON AGAIN!!
 
#37 ·
Yea wasn't nice in this heat, had two breaks for an hour cos I was feeling sick.

I have noticed the blowers feel more powerful. Also, when I turn the engine on the blowers were never fully cold until the car was moving. They now go instantly cold straight away. The motor much of been struggling for a while.

Feels so nice now so worth the effort today.
 
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