AC/Heater Blower Motor Resistor Location - Civinfo
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 27th August 2018, 17:57 Thread Starter
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Question Blower Motor Resistor Location

Good day everyone,

Where do I find the blower motor resistor for my AC Heater motor. The motor stopped working without making any noise, it just died. I already checked all the fuses, and before I attempt to replace the motor I want to test the resistor, but I need to find it first. Any ideas please?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 7th September 2018, 11:03
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 7th September 2018, 16:33
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its too the right of centre
left in the drivers footwell behind the panel easy enough to get too and theres a place near me that will refurb the unit if its faulty
they blame not changing pollen filter often enough and a clogged filter puts strain on and overloads the resistor
but for me my blower itself had failed now that's not as easy to change
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 9th September 2018, 12:42
 
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where exactly is the Resistor please? scaramanger says drivers footwell behind the panel, link from cosmicma says behind glovebox, which is passenger side.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10th September 2018, 13:56
 
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Well I managed to find it. To help everyone else, its in the Drivers side (RHD UK Model) just to the left and above the clutch pedal right up against the back. Looks like you've got to remove the entire centre of the dashboard to get good access to the fan motor. A pointer to a thread doing that would be appreciated.

From what I've researched, the Resistor is meant to have a different resistance between each of the 4 pins to offer slower speeds. Mine has a resistance just across 2 pins!, the others are open circuit. Can I be sure this is why the fan is not working at all and its not that the motor is dead? A week or so ago it came on for a minute and slowly faded to a stop.

I can't get the fan out without a lot of work. Could i test the fan by connecting all the pins in the Resistor together to make the resistance zero and it run on full power? or would that cause a relay to burn out or cause damage elsewhere?
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10th September 2018, 16:45
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With the center console out, you can remove the radio and i'd hope this would then give you sufficient access.

https://www.civinfo.com/wiki/index.p...in_to_the_dash
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11th September 2018, 13:41
 
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Thanks Farqui, that will be helpful if the new Resistor I've ordered doesn't do the job and I've got to get to the Blower motor.
Getting that panel off by the clutch pedal should give me more access.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 14th September 2018, 12:44
 
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New Resistor turned up yesterday with same resistances across the pins as original, indicating nothing wrong with the Resistor. Fitting it confirmed problem not resolved. Tapping the Fan motor caused it to whimper into life and then fade to a halt after 4 or 5 seconds. Do you think this points to a faulty fan motor or control panel? I can't reach the electrical connector on the fan to check what power it's getting. And getting the Fan Motor out looks like it needs me to remove more than all the Dashboard panels.

Starting to take over my life so thinking about trading the car in. I've had 210,000 miles out of her, most of which will have had the Fan Motor running. Any inspiration that might solve the problem?
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 14th September 2018, 12:47
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would be shame to sell up for just a busted fan but I feel your frustration.

I think the motor can be swapped without removing the dash, it can be sneaked out from the side.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 14th September 2018, 12:49
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 14th September 2018, 13:49
 
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Thanks for the thread links Farqui. Clutch pedal removal sounds painful.

In addition to this Fan Motor issue, I've:
- a passenger electric window that's not going down and making only a slight 'click' from the passenger side switch trying to raise it (No sound at all when using Driver's side switch, so thinking wiring fault).
- Clutch that's just starting to slip, that local garage has said 970 to fix as flywheel will need changing too.
- Aircon that stopped working a year ago despite a re-charge that looks like clutch on compressor has stopped engaging.
Engine is sound and love driving the car, but 210,000 miles are starting to show wear on everything to the point that repairs might cost more than the car is worth.

Might have another look at Blower motor job over the weekend but you get my drift?
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 14th September 2018, 14:41
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its not that hard a job just awkward and fiddly due to tight space
clutch pedal is easy to remove once you get the wiring unclipped from the top

when I changed mine it was around 25 degrees which made the job harder due to heat

the hard part is the tight space you have to work in
I didn't remove the dash or anything
just the trim in footwell that covers resistor and fan and clutch pedal
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 14th September 2018, 15:04
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Some TLC would breath some lift back into her

If that's the original clutch/flywheel then it's done pretty well. The replacement clutch parts aren't too expensive, maybe shop around for a cheaper installer? https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/hond...ts-2-2-diesel/

The AC clutch may just need a shim rather than a complete/expensive compressor, check the forum for more info. It may even be in the Wiki...
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 14th September 2018, 17:26
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as for aircon have you tried the relay
not uncommon for it to fail
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Air-Con-R...EAAOSweEFbKNEX

or
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-H...EAAOSwxH1UJYl6
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 15th September 2018, 08:10
 
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Thanks. Tried that. Bought a new one but no joy. Come to the conclusion that the clutch on the compressor needs shimming or replacing.
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