Electrics No electrical supply - Civinfo
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 1st July 2019, 16:20 Thread Starter
 
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No electrical supply

Firstly, hi everyone.

I had my car SORN since beginning of February, parked in front of the house and never used since then. Before SORN I continuously had problems with the battery, having to jump-start if very often, even though it was a new battery bought in September last year.

Now I decided to use the car again but this time it won't jump start at all. I thought the battery is the issue again so I replaced it but I still can't get any electrical supply. Basically, when I switch the car on there's no power supply to the headlights or the dashboard.

As my mechanical skills are very limited I am asking for help here, if any suggestions, before getting a mechanic to look at it.

I thought I will try the "cheaper" version first and get it sorted myself.

Any help will be much appreciated. Cheers.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 1st July 2019, 16:46
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You have checked all the fuses under the bonnet? BTW most likely your initial battery draining issues are due to the Bluetooth HFT module your EX is fitted with.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 1st July 2019, 17:47 Thread Starter
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You have checked all the fuses under the bonnet? BTW most likely your initial battery draining issues are due to the Bluetooth HFT module your EX is fitted with.

Cheers for your answer. Yes, I have checked the fuses and they seem alright. Never heard about the Bluetooth HFT module issue but I will read about it.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 3rd July 2019, 09:49
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If your Bluetooth phone link doesn't work, it's very likely the HFT that has been draining your battery. I removed the module from under the steering wheel for a quick fix to battery draining problems.

That doesnt explain why you are not getting any power from the new battery unless it's been installed for a few days and has also drained because of the HFT. Mine would drain completely in 2 days, so can you measure the voltage at the battery (or do you have a test lamp)?

I will check the wiring diagram when I have access to the manual to see if there is a relay which turns everything on. Can you confirm that nothing electrical works or if it just affects some functions?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 3rd July 2019, 13:48
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I may be teaching you to suck eggs here but, if you are trying to jump start it, make sure you are connecting it correctly with the -ve on the decent battery to an earth point on the car with the dead battery (and not to the -ve on the dead battery).
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 3rd July 2019, 15:33
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make sure you are connecting it correctly with the -ve on the decent battery to an earth point on the car with the dead battery (and not to the -ve on the dead battery).
Does anyone know the real reason for using this technique?
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 3rd July 2019, 19:20
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I believe the theory is that if the lead is attached to the battery terminal rather than away from it/at an earthing point and the positive lead is already in place, should a spark occur when the attachment's made, any hydrogen gas emitting from the battery could explode.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 3rd July 2019, 20:36
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Yes, I've heard that one as well, but is it the real reason? Perhaps it might be something to do with current sensing in the negative supply?
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 3rd July 2019, 21:00
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My experience is that is you connect the negative to the negative then the flat battery effectively 'short circuits' the charged battery - meaning you don't get any voltage through to the rest of the car. Putting it on an earth point seems to 'force' it not to do this.

Certainly I've tried jump starting both ways and -ve to an earth point is far, far more effective.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 3rd July 2019, 22:30
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AA's recommended procedure (donor's negative jump cable to connect to receiver's earth point) given as stated to eliminate possibility of sparking at battery should the cable be attached there.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 3rd July 2019, 23:34
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Causing a spark and igniting hydrogen certainly seems the most likely tech reason to me.
I can't see Skomaz's reason being particularly valid as the neg terminal of the battery is connected to chassis by a pretty damn big cable anyway. Having said that, I have always connected to the neg of the battery without any starting/explosion problems.
Having said that, I once built an ammeter that used the resistance of the earth cable as the current shunt and measured the very small voltage drop across it.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 30th July 2019, 19:46 Thread Starter
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Thank you for all your replies and sorry for not answering. I managed to get a mechanic to have a look a couple of weeks ago and apparently the live battery terminal is the one that is causing the problem. It seems like I had managed to blow the fuse within it while jump starting the car a while ago?

Now I am at the point of trying to replace this piece but I struggle to find another one. Has anyone encountered the same issue before/any suggestions?


Any help, again, would be appreciated.

Regards,
Andrei
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