This is a common cause of failure of the A/C on our civics.
In fact just a week ago Honda issued a Bulletin about it. The original fit Omron relay is suseptable to moisture ingress. This can form nitric acid in the presence of the normal arcing as the contacts operate. This will lead to corrosion and eventual failure. The Bulletin warns that the relay can fail either open or short circuit. If the latter this forces the compressor on to 100% duty cycle and can burn it out.
The remedy is a replacement relay from a different manufacturer - Mitsuba - that is a better quality item. The bulletin warns that the EPC is not yet updated, so you have to order this countermeasure part number directly to recieve the new part, otherwise you will just get the "old" part. I'm surprised they are not doing a campain over this considering if can fail in a way that might lead to screwing up other parts of your aircon
This the bulletin number:-
SM-10-002-00
It affects ALL civics (and CR-V and jazz) upto and including 2011 model year
Here is the countermeasure part number:-
39794-SDA-A05
RELAY ASSY., POWER (MICRO ISO) (MITSUBA)
The datasheet for the original Omron part is here:
The specific part is G8HL-H71 which appears to be a Honda specific version not listed on Omron's website - the standard relay is 180ohm and the Honda version is 120ohm coil resistance.
The Mitsuba part seems to already be used on other Hondas. I found this link for example
My local Honda dealer only charge £35 (Crewe) but most places charge about £60.
If you get someone to switch the aircon on while you look at the compressor you should see it spin up if it's working ok.
Take a look at this picture http://www.carsteering.com/data/all_images/AC-36-3650N-700-Map-2.jpg the pulley wheel with the grooves in it spins, the triangular section on the end of the pulley is stationary while the aircon is off. Switch the aircon on and the end where you see the triangular plate should start to spin. It has a clutch inside it, if the relay fails or the gas is low the triangular plate won't spin.
So change the relay first, if it still doesn't work it's probably a regas.
Part number Details:
Genuine Honda Mitsuba Air Con Relay
Part Number-39794-SDA-A05
Enjoying your Nexus 5? A bit tempted now they have dropped to £240 from CPW.
It's probably the aircon gas then. Phone you local Honda dealer to see if they have any offers on.
There is a tiny window on one off the aircon pipes under the bonnet, I can see green liquid in mine sloshing round when the aircon is on. It's a small window, smaller than a 5 pence piece.
It's worth getting it sorted, mines never off. I use it all year round for keeping windows clear in the winter but also find it very good on those Hot summer days like we had last year.
Waste of money, I tried a can on my last car and didn't have much success with it. A proper air on service will drain your system and refill it withe gas and a dye to show leaks.
Few things you should know: the green fluid sloshing around isn't refrigerant, its oil. I didn't notice an oil sight glass on my system but then I never went looking for one. IF there's a refrigerant sight glass which I don't think there is, it would be in the pipework leading from the condenser (small rad in the passenger side front wheel arch), and a healthy system should have clear liquid flowing in that line with the system running. If there's no liquid or there's bubbles, then you're short of refrigerant.
A better test might be to feel the pipework leading to and from the compressor with the AC on for a while. One will be hot and the other cool, if not then you're short of refrigerant. Then again, if you've definitely sighted the compressor clutch and you're sure it's not engaging, your fault lies elsewhere. If you can hear a slight change in engine pitch when engaging and disengaging the clutch that's a good sign that that the clutch is working too - since the compressor is a heavy load for the engine which has to work harder to maintain revs with it engaged.
I wouldn't ever put a can of sludge in my system, they're immaculately clean inside when working properly and if you start putting crap in that claims to self-seal the leaks like radweld, it's only going to block the expansion valve and filter, and set you back quite a bit to get the system dismantled and all that sludgy crap taken back out. The cans also claim to replace lost oil, if you're losing oil then your problem is quite severe and must be repaired by a specialist. On the other hand if you're not losing oil, then adding more could potentially hydraulock the compressor (they can only compress gases, which is why systems are designed to flash off all gas in the evap and safeguard against a ruinous liquid return to the comp.
Hope you have luck with this, refrigerations a black art but repair will be essential in a couple of months!
I had a look to see if the triangle was spinning on my compressor and it didn't seem to be. I'd just finished a 60 mile journey and the outside temperature was about 6-degrees. I think the revs dropped slightly when the aircon kicked in.
Does the triangle/compressor still kick in when the outside air temperature is low?
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