Battery Dash lights dimming when starting - Civinfo
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 10th October 2013, 10:51 Thread Starter
 
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Dash lights dimming when starting

Ever since I have owned my Civic, i have had a bit of trouble with power drain.

It always happens if i leave the car for more than a day, etc. Its ok in the summer months, but now the cold morning are setting in, i can feel it struggling in the morning.

For instance, this morning the temp was at 9 and when i started the car the dash lights really flickered and dimmed and then it kicked in.

Before I go down the route of auto-electrician to have a look at it, are there any suggestions that anyone can give me ?

I replaced the battery just over a year ago after the first time it wouldn't start.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 10th October 2013, 10:56
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Check the replacement battery mate it could be dodgy... If not you could just have something that is pulling power somewhere where it shouldnt be but an auto electrician should be able to find that. Just a case of trial and error
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 10th October 2013, 11:20 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick reply.

I keep reading that the car is know for initially drawing alot of power on start up, and its best to get a bosch battery. Which is the best bosch battery to get ?

An s3 / s4 / s5 ??
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 10th October 2013, 11:29
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I had a s5 in my bora and it was fantastic! Sat on my stairs currently as it's a little too big for the civic ( had a 110 and I believe the 096 is required for the civic)
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 10th October 2013, 11:46 Thread Starter
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Right then...... i'll go down that route.

Now to hunt for valid discount codes. Thanks
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 10th October 2013, 12:09
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Where did you get the battery from because my mate got his from halfords and he DIDNT have the receipt but took it back and said it wasnt working properly and they agreed to replace. I'm just saying this as they could take your old battery as a part x and you throw a little bit of money at them and they could give you the battery you want?

Worth a try from where ever you got the battery. Shy bairns get no sweets
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 10th October 2013, 12:27
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I have a Bosch S5 Battery 096 from EuroCarParts in mine at the moment as I needed to replace my OEM battery last winter; can't fault it.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 10th October 2013, 14:34 Thread Starter
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To be honest, im not sure where the battery was from.
I have a friend who manages a car centre, asked him to get me one and he did. Think it cost about £70 but has no name to it.

Early in the year (may), i visited centre parks for the week. Drove a good 200 miles to get there, parked the car up on site and left it from monday at 4pm till friday at 9:30.... the car was completely flat and i needed to get start of a friends car. There was nothing left on, i made sure everything was off, inside lights, stereo, auto lights, wipers, etc. but it just died.

i really need to look at the spec of the battery, it may not be good for the car ?
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 10th October 2013, 15:02
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I'd also suggest you do a parasitic drain test. On earlier models there was an issue with there still being battery drain from auto-systems which was resolved by an ECU update.

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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 10th October 2013, 15:25 Thread Starter
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Thanks for that, I will look into it.

How can i tell what version my ECU is running at, should you get them check and updated at Honda regually ? My Civic is 2.2 cdti 2006, i don;t think its ever been back to honda.
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 11th October 2013, 20:43
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dodgy fusebox check if there is a recall for your car if you say its not ever been to honda .

Updates and recalls | You and your car | Honda Owners | Cars | Honda (UK)
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 12th October 2013, 10:55 Thread Starter
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Thank you.... I am taking the car (if it will start) to my mates garage today to check battery/fuses, etc.
Just checked my current battery and it's a commercial (?) 096
12v 72Ah
680a
(SAE)

I take it that it's a poor battery ?
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 12th October 2013, 12:58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theINSKIP View Post
Thank you.... I am taking the car (if it will start) to my mates garage today to check battery/fuses, etc.
Just checked my current battery and it's a commercial (?) 096
12v 72Ah
680a
(SAE)

I take it that it's a poor battery ?
It isn't a bad battery and if its an 096 its to spec of your car but the Bosch battery being suggested has the following :

Amp Hours: (Ah): 77Ah
Cold Cranking Amp: (CCA): 780CCA

So an additional 100 cold cranking amps and is 77ah instead of your 72! Will give it a little more kick on the turn over if required


If your battery is faulty EuroCarParts currently have a sale on and you can get an 096 pretty cheap :

Exide - 4 year guarantee

Amp Hours: (Ah): 77Ah
Cold Cranking Amp: (CCA): 760Ah
£73.40


Bosch - S5 (5 year guarantee)
Amp Hours: (Ah): 77Ah
Cold Cranking Amp: (CCA): 780CCA
£94.28
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 5th November 2013, 16:10 Thread Starter
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Sorry to drag this up again, but i need some advice.

On sunday morning the car would not start. Everything lit up but when i pressed the start button the lights on the dash dimmed and the dredded clicking sound kicked in, followed by no power and the clock flashing at me (radio stations gone AGAIN!!)

I started it with some jump leads and took it for a spin to power it up again.

Monday/Tuesday the car is starting fine, but to be on the safe side i booked it into a local auto electrician, when i dropped it off this morning i :

left the panoramic roof open:
heating on:
wipers on auto
lights on auto
radio on

and then turned the ignition off.

He has tested the battery, the alternator and the fuses for drain and said that he cannot find a fault !!

I have checked the car with honda to see if im missing any ECU updates and its up to date with everything.

HELP

Last edited by theINSKIP; 5th November 2013 at 16:44. Reason: forgot to mention something
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 5th November 2013, 18:14
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What voltage does your battery sit at when left? Also do you have any ATS or similar up where you live?

If so ask them to do a drop test on the battery and make sure it definitely isn't duff.

A crude test yourself : Check the voltage when resting, then have someone turn over the engine whilst you monitor the multimeter. See what voltage it drops to when cranking.
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 18th November 2013, 09:58 Thread Starter
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Car dead again this weekend...... so im going to try and get a new battery.

Does anyone know any working codes for carparts4less ?
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 18th November 2013, 15:05
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Look for sales mate.

Don't rely on discount codes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by -mike- View Post
A crude test yourself : Check the voltage when resting, then have someone turn over the engine whilst you monitor the multimeter. See what voltage it drops to when cranking.
This test can show you voltage under load and non load conditions.

A typical lead acid battery will have voltage of 12.6 under a no load condition and if it can crank out 440Amps under crank

That is 5.5kW of raw power

But one bad cell takes that down to 4.4kW(around 10volts)
2 bad cells takes it down to 3.7kW.(around 8volts)

Last edited by Grayfox; 18th November 2013 at 15:10.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 18th November 2013, 20:23
 
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Ignore, just realised you've got the Diesel model
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 18th November 2013, 21:17
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Quote:
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Look for sales mate.

Don't rely on discount codes.



This test can show you voltage under load and non load conditions.

A typical lead acid battery will have voltage of 12.6 under a no load condition and if it can crank out 440Amps under crank

That is 5.5kW of raw power

But one bad cell takes that down to 4.4kW(around 10volts)
2 bad cells takes it down to 3.7kW.(around 8volts)
Interesting matey - mine drops to 10.2v cranking. Would that suggest its tired?
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 19th November 2013, 09:22 Thread Starter
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ended up getting one from carparts4less using discount code CP10LESS for £10 off.

Cost £78 in the end. Not to bad compared to other prices.

Just hope it works.

I've spoke to local Honda who have said that if it doesn't work, then they will check the ECU version and do some other checks for £30.
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