Other Passenger Electric Windows - Civinfo
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11th July 2018, 14:35 Thread Starter
 
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Passenger Electric Windows

Hi,

I wonder if any one can help...
I have a 59 plate 2.2 ES which I've only had for a month or so. The battery died on me a couple of days ago (I believe it was the original Varta one). I put my new battery in last night and everything is working fine. This morning I noticed that my passenger window can no longer be operated from the driver side controls, it works fine from the passenger side (although no auto). I had a look around and found a post on resetting the power window logic, which I did twice. Unfortunately, this didn't fix the problem. I was wondering if there are any other steps worth trying?
I call my local Honda dealer and they had no ideas other than bringing it in and taking the door card off to look at the switch. I don't think the switch is the problem, worked perfectly fine before the battery died.

Thanks!

Danny
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11th July 2018, 15:28
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All I can think of is disconnecting the battery again, first, before checking fuses.

I agree with you about the dealer being a bit sledgehammer though.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 12th July 2018, 02:17
 
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I definitely would've thought it'd be a fuse somewhere also, certainly the avenue to exhaust before starting to rip the panels off
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 12th July 2018, 12:41
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It took me a few tries before it actually worked when this happened to me, probably because I got it slightly wrong or missed a step or something.

Might be worth giving it another go (or two), if you've not already. Making sure you follow the steps precisely!

Hope this helps
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 12th July 2018, 15:21
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Good tip.

When my 8G front windows wouldn't work it took a few times as well.

One thing I only just thought - doesn't the switch bank come off without needing to remove the whole card ?

Although I'm still dubious given that all that changed was the battery.

Do we suspect a dealer looking for a good 'labour' charge
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 22nd September 2018, 22:27
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yes, you have to remove the whole door trim

Hi Kremmen,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kremmen View Post
One thing I only just thought - doesn't the switch bank come off without needing to remove the whole card ?
Just saw your post now, quite late, but:
  • unfortunately, to remove the switch bank you have to remove the whole door trim;
  • other then the plastic clips holding the cover, there are 2 screws, one vertical, one horizontal, only accessible from "inside" the door;
  • also the 2 electrical cables are so tight that to remove the plugs from the control unit, the door trim must be away from the door frame.
I did that job (it is a chore) just yesterday and have some pictures.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 22nd September 2018, 22:48
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The likelihood of it being the switch or 'inside door' wiring, to me, seems extremely unlikely, as the switch works in 'manual' mode and has not been fiddled with. Just the battery has been disconnected. Seems like the 'auto' control thingy is not being triggered by the switch.

If OP takes the door panel off, what exactly will he be looking/testing for?
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 24th September 2018, 09:20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M8TJT View Post
If OP takes the door panel off, what exactly will he be looking/testing for?
Until dannysmith43 lets us know, we will never know
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 24th September 2018, 13:02
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Daft question but you've not pushed the button on the drivers door that prevents all the other windows opening by accident?
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 27th September 2018, 18:12
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But he wrote:
"it works fine from the passenger side (although no auto)"
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 28th September 2018, 10:45
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i have just had this problem, what i did was hold the passenger window button down for ten seconds, then open the door, turn the key in the ignition to position II then close the window with the passenger button. once i had done this i tried the drivers switch and it worked
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 4th October 2018, 12:33
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I was not so lucky.
After trying the "sw reset", without luck, I removed the door trim.



Image is not showing:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kGe...ew?usp=sharing

Pluging back the arm rest control, I noticed that the elevator motor becoming very hot very fast (and the window did not move). But measuring the motor's resistance, it was not a short-circuit.
Took it to an electrician, a few hours later he returned the car, said that the motor brushes were the cause, and had them readjusted (?).
Everything is working now.
Rec
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Last edited by Rec; 4th October 2018 at 16:51. Reason: Images not shown :(
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 4th October 2018, 22:55
 
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I hate coincidence faults.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 5th October 2018, 04:53
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I'm no electrics expert but I've never heard of the brushes being realigned either.

Given the use the passenger window must get I would have expected the brushes to last the lifetime of the car, unless one owner has a playful child who spends all journeys playing with the window.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 5th October 2018, 09:35
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Yes, I even asked the electrician if it wasn't the worm drive, but he said the brushes were badly seated and he readjusted and tried several times and it was OK.
And now it is working, indeed.

Let me add that he charged 40 €, no parts, I find it very reasonable (I took the car to the workshop with the door trim already out)

Rec

Last edited by Rec; 5th October 2018 at 09:39.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 5th October 2018, 09:41
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I wonder if the OP ever got his working properly?
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 5th October 2018, 11:05
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@Kremmen. Children should be strapped in the back seat for their safety and the drivers sanity
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  Civinfo > 8th Generation Euro Honda Civic (2006 - 2011) > Electronics (8G)

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