Electrics adding a switch to a circuit - Civinfo
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 20th March 2011, 03:24 Thread Starter
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adding a switch to a circuit

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Spot-light-lam...item5889279d3c

Is it possible to add a switch into this circuit.... as I don't want the spots on permanently with the full beams......

ATB,
Tom
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 20th March 2011, 09:06
 
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Spot light lamp Wiring loom +fuse+relay+connectors 12v on eBay (end time 07-Apr-11 12:50:34 BST)

Is it possible to add a switch into this circuit.... as I don't want the spots on permanently with the full beams......

ATB,
Tom
Yeah, very easy!!!!!!

You cut into the trigger, extend the cable to where you want your switch, and put the switch in the break in the cable.

For the amount of money they are asking, you could probably make up a better loom yourself for less.

On my range rover I've taken the feed from the full-beam cable at the stalk, fed it to a switch on the dash, and then on to a relay that switches the spots on and off. That way the spots will only come on with full beam, and I can kill them at the switch if I need to.

Last edited by Steve_R1979; 20th March 2011 at 09:47.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 20th March 2011, 12:28 Thread Starter
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Hi,

Thanks TBH I'm really not that bright (no pun intended ) and when it comes to electrics I'm really bad. So the pre-made loom seemed a good idea, but you think a better one could be made? Interesting.... guessing that means it wouldn't be too hard to run it to a deep cycle battery on a seperate tray in the bay (which I could also run other stuff from like my sound system )?

Anyways so I'm thinking then, split the trigger cable (which I'm guessing is the positive/live feed from the main beam?) and run it to a switch... I'm thinking of using a cruise control switch body (lockable switch) with a spot lamp button top in my dashboard cluster so I can choose to illuminate them or not... just need to run them through the bulkhead but thinking to tiny wires shouldn't be impossible to feed through the firewall. Then solder the attachments to the two feed in the plug to create a circuit, like I did with my gate opener, and bingo

Thanks for your help,
Tom
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 20th March 2011, 13:01
 
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Hi,

Thanks TBH I'm really not that bright (no pun intended ) and when it comes to electrics I'm really bad. So the pre-made loom seemed a good idea, but you think a better one could be made? Interesting.... guessing that means it wouldn't be too hard to run it to a deep cycle battery on a seperate tray in the bay (which I could also run other stuff from like my sound system )?

Anyways so I'm thinking then, split the trigger cable (which I'm guessing is the positive/live feed from the main beam?) and run it to a switch... I'm thinking of using a cruise control switch body (lockable switch) with a spot lamp button top in my dashboard cluster so I can choose to illuminate them or not... just need to run them through the bulkhead but thinking to tiny wires shouldn't be impossible to feed through the firewall. Then solder the attachments to the two feed in the plug to create a circuit, like I did with my gate opener, and bingo

Thanks for your help,
Tom
That would work.
Personally I'd use 2 relays, one for each side. Not essential, and can be run from the same trigger, but means you don't loose both spots if one of the relays fails.

I guess as these are spots, and not headlights thats not so important!!!
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 20th March 2011, 13:47 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Steve_R1979 View Post
That would work.
Personally I'd use 2 relays, one for each side. Not essential, and can be run from the same trigger, but means you don't loose both spots if one of the relays fails.

I guess as these are spots, and not headlights thats not so important!!!
Superb, thanks Now just to fit the bar and lights lols, should be simples.... hmmmmmmm


ATB,
Tom
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