Polished Metal My Car Log [Android 4.1 Double Din + Speaker Upgrade + Sub + Reversing Cam & More] - Civinfo
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post #1 of 286 (permalink) Old 16th October 2013, 23:33 Thread Starter
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My Car Log [Android 4.1 Double Din + Speaker Upgrade + Sub + Reversing Cam & More]

This post is more of a placeholder at the moment, and I'll continue to edit it as I work through my various projects and get some photos up. This may be a bit slow though, as the weather is miserable, and will undoubtedly get worse.

For now, here is a picture of my new head unit sat on a box in my room. Unfortunately my fascia has not yet arrived as it appears Royal Mail have lost it before it even got to the depot...


Android 4.1 double din

I'm planning to write a review of this unit soon. As far as I know, I am the only person with one. It will probably be available on eBay/Aliexpress etc within the next few weeks if it isn't already.

I think I've got the screen set up how I like it, except for the music widget which is horrible, however I haven't found a way to use anything other than the default player for a few reasons which I will explain in my review.

Mods Planned
Android double din
Infinity coaxial rear speakers
Reversing camera
Multiple USB inputs for headunit integrated into cubby hole
Auto-folding mirrors
Flip key
Warning triangle stored under parcel shelf
Wind deflectors

Mods Completed
Gear knob change + gaiter
Matching tax disc holder (no pictures yet)
RGB footwell lights + wireless remote
Dash camera with fixed wiring (no pictures yet)
Custom rear cabin LED light
LED Lights - sidelights, reversing, rear, numberplate, interior (no pictures yet)
Infinity front speakers (no pictures yet)
Vibe 12" sub
Fog light protectors (no pictures yet)
Civinfo sticker (of course!)

View all images here.

Civinfo sticker (only picture of the car I have at the moment)


Civinfo sticker

I would like to do other modifications such as tinted windows, new alloys, lowering, but the insurance company and my wallet seem to think otherwise.

Any questions please feel free to ask.

Footwell Lighting


Lights off and white light on (has a slight blue tinge to it rather than being pure white due to the RGB LEDs)

The lights are white when the doors open, they are connected to the cabin lights so also dim slightly.

When the key is in slot 2, the lights are controlled by a wireless remote. The receiver box stores the most recent setting even if there is no power.


Remote control for changing the lights, it has various preset static colours, as well as user-configurable static colours. There are also a few flashing modes with speed control.


White and red


Green and blue


Yellow and cyan


Purple

Custom Rear Cabin Light

I recently purchased a 12 LED light, and I really hated how small the light source was compared to the size of the actual space, the output was bright, but it didn't look very uniform in the housing.


12 LED light

To solve this, I used some LED strips stuck to some thin plastic (ice cream lid) and wired to a 31mm connector.

The light now looks a lot better, and the output is very good.


Light off and light on

Other LED Lights


Front map lights on and CREE reversing light off

Subwoofer

Power wire runs down the passenger side of the car and out through a hole I drilled in the passenger footwell (grommet was added to protect cable).

Ground wire is connected under the rear seat.

Sound is taken from the rear left speaker, into a LOC, and into the sub.

For now (until new headunit is installed), the remote wire is connected to the wire from the power outlet in the boot.


Sub in boot and sub wiring

Gear Knob and Gaiter


Richbrook silver 6-speed gear knob and black leather gaiter with grey stitching

Last edited by x5252x; 17th October 2013 at 22:02.
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post #2 of 286 (permalink) Old 17th October 2013, 18:47 Thread Starter
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Updated with some pictures.

They are supposed to link to the larger version, but the forum seems to override the link with a "Click the image to open in full size." thing.

Edit: Fixed, images now go to their full size version when you click them.

Last edited by x5252x; 17th October 2013 at 20:53.
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post #3 of 286 (permalink) Old 17th October 2013, 19:16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x5252x View Post

Custom Rear Cabin Light

I recently purchased a 12 LED light, and I really hated how small the light source was compared to the size of the actual space, the output was bright, but it didn't look very uniform in the housing.


12 LED light

To solve this, I used some LED strips stuck to some thin plastic (ice cream lid) and wired to a 31mm connector.

The light now looks a lot better, and the output is very good.


Light off and light on
Nice work

I would love to see a how to on this please, Its a mod I want to do.



And this sub is it active and would it fit in the boot underfloor if laid flat ?

Last edited by TonyGTB; 17th October 2013 at 19:18.
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post #4 of 286 (permalink) Old 17th October 2013, 20:58 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Nice work
Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyGTB View Post
Custom Rear Cabin Light

I would love to see a how to on this please, Its a mod I want to do.
It won't be much of a guide as you literally just solder the strips to a connector, however I will take the light out and get some more detailed photos.

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Sub

And this sub is it active and would it fit in the boot underfloor if laid flat ?
I think the picture of the sub is deceptive, the top looks fairly thin, and so you think the whole sub is thin, but actually the rear slants so it fits right up against the seat backs. If you look at the boot floor you can see how deep the sub really is. In answer to your question, there is no chance this sub will fit under the false boot floor I'm afraid.
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post #5 of 286 (permalink) Old 18th October 2013, 13:53
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Nice work with the footwell lights where did you get them from?
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post #6 of 286 (permalink) Old 18th October 2013, 14:36 Thread Starter
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Nice work with the footwell lights where did you get them from?
Thanks.

Originally I had white footwell lights, but I was told they were boring, so decided RGB ones were the way to go. Plus the $5 white LED strip wasn't great quality.

You can get all of the parts you need off of eBay, as a minimum you will need the RGB strip and some wire, then depending on how you want them to function depends on what other parts you need.

Assuming you want the full functionality, meaning dimming with cabin lights when doors open, and full control when you turn the key, you will need the following.

RGB LED Strip (I got a 5050 5m waterproof one, 60 LEDs per metre)
RGB Wire (I bought 20m, but used less than 5m I think)
Scotch locks x2 (To connect to cabin light wiring)
DPDT Relay x2 (Ideally an automotive one with built in resistor and diode)
RGB RF Controller (This came with the RGB strip I ordered)
Stranded wire (To connect everything up)
Female spade (To connect to option connector in fuse box)

I think total cost was around £40, but I've obviously got a lot of stuff left over as I chose to buy bulk and will probably use the stuff elsewhere. For example, I bought 100m of stranded wire, 50 scotch locks, and 100 spades.
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post #7 of 286 (permalink) Old 21st October 2013, 21:27 Thread Starter
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Few quick updates.

Would have liked to edit the original post, but seems this has been disabled.

Custom Rear Cabin Light

As requested, some more detailed pictures and a basic guide on how to make it.

I think you can buy the required 31mm connector, but as I already had an LED bulb I decided to remove the resistors from that so the original LEDs do not function (you can leave them working if you want, but I don't think it will look as good). I also debated about removing the circuit board and replacing it with a blank bit of strip board, but didn't.


You can just about see where the resistors were removed from, under the metal end

The light consists of 6 small strips of LEDs cut from a 5m reel, stuck to an ice cream lid.


LED strips on ice cream lid, and wires taped on the rear


Some black tape on the LEDs just in case, and the light in the plastic cover

Flip Key

Got my flip key today, I haven't moved the transponder yet or got the key cut, but I'll post more pictures when I do.

Overall I'm pretty impressed with the key I chose, both the finish and quality are good. Included with the key were two front plates, and two Honda badges for the rear. The front plate has to be stuck on with the provided tape, which covers the screws, so I guess the replacement is for if you need to remove the cover and replace the battery.

The only niggles I have with it are that the mechanism is slightly sloppy, so when you close the key it can catch on the side, and also when it is closed, the bottom sticks out slightly. I have yet to find a solution to either problem, but honestly they are extremely minor.


Empty casing, and casing with old key internals - notice the worn buttons


Closed casing, and front metal plate


Complete key, and sticking-out blade

Lights

I've replaced the numberplate bulbs with some 6 LED ones, thought they would be brighter than the 5 LED 360 degree ones I replaced as all 6 LEDs point down, but I can't tell the difference.

Had one of my rear lights blow so have replaced it with a 42 LED one for now, it's not a brake light so I may just stick with the LEDs. Visually the brightness is as good, if not better than the original.


6 LED bulb, and 42 LED rear light

Took a couple interior pictures when it was slightly darker outside. Didn't manage to capture the rear lighting so well, but it's a lot more obvious in real life. The front is really quite off putting at night on full brightness, but luckily I can turn it down using the remote.


Front, and rear footwell lighting
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post #8 of 286 (permalink) Old 24th October 2013, 23:38 Thread Starter
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Got the headunit fitted in the fascia and attempted to tidy up the wires slightly, not overly happy with the results so I may change the wiring when I go to install everything in the car, depending on where the wires want to go and where they sit.

From a bit of research it appears that there are two standards for double din size, 178mm x 100mm, and 173mm x 98mm. Typically the fascia is designed for the smaller of these, and the headunit was the slightly larger size, of course meaning that it didn't fit.

I contacted the place I bought the fascia from, but they did not have a suitable surround, so I had no choice but to file it down.

Honestly, I don't think you can tell, even when you look closely, and certainly you would never know once it is installed in the car.


Headunit installed in the fascia, and close-up of the surround edge



Mess of wires, close up of braiding


The headunit came with bare wires rather than an ISO connector, so I had to purchase one from eBay (just £3). I could have soldered the wires together as the ISO connector is universal, but for now I decided to use bullet connectors.



Bullet connectors


There were two extra cables in the Connects2 wiring, a blue and a pink wire. The pink wire is the speed pulse wire, and not required on a lot of head units (mine included). If you connect the blue wire to +12v it will show "HONDA CIVIC" on the clock screen, or leave it disconnected to show the date instead.

Last edited by Dimplyred; 28th October 2013 at 01:14. Reason: Edited at OP's request.
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post #9 of 286 (permalink) Old 25th October 2013, 16:06
 
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Hello,

The above looks really neat! welldone mate. have you got a map of the cable connection?

Regards,
Faz
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post #10 of 286 (permalink) Old 26th October 2013, 19:57 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Hello,

The above looks really neat! welldone mate. have you got a map of the cable connection?

Regards,
Faz
Sure, it will be specific to the headunit though.

I've installed my headunit today, and all is working well. Unfortunately I will need to remove it in a few weeks to install a few extra bits like reversing camera and USB sockets, but for now it's fine.

I'll be posting my pictures later tonight, didn't take as many as I wanted due to the poor weather and wanting to get it done before I drown, so if anyone wants any pictures of something specific please let me know and I'll take them next time.
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post #11 of 286 (permalink) Old 26th October 2013, 20:08 Thread Starter
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Flip Key - Moving the Transponder

Still haven't got my key cut, but I've moved the transponder over and took many pictures of the process. They aren't the best quality though, I put my phone on burst mode so I didn't have to hold it, but this seemed to lower the resolution substantially.

First, remove the original transponder, to do this, slide a knife under the transponder and twist carefully whilst touching the end with a soldering iron.

Do this on both sides, don't worry if you break the pad, it's pretty common.


Removing transponder


Broken pad

Make sure to put some solder on either side of the transponder, and the two round pads above where the transponder was originally connected.


Tinning transponder, and pads

Solder some thin wire to either side of the transponder.


Soldering wire to transponder

Estimate the correct length of the wire.


Checking wire length

Solder the wires to the pads, remember to solder the wires in the same orientation as when the transponder was on the board.


Soldering wires to the board

You will need to cut a gap for the wires to fit through, this is required in the rubber part, and the transparent plastic part. I also had to cut a notch into the key.


Cutting notch into key


Notch in rubber, and plastic

I put some black tape over the wires.


Black tape on board, finished product
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post #12 of 286 (permalink) Old 26th October 2013, 21:04
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the footwells are cracking.. you should knock them out!!
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post #13 of 286 (permalink) Old 26th October 2013, 21:10 Thread Starter
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Headunit Installation

The weather wasn't so good later in the afternoon today, and also it gets dark fairly early.

To remove the stock radio you need to dismantle the centre section, however I don't think this is required once the radio has been changed. This is because the stock unit is bolted in from the bottom, whereas any replacement is not.

Start by removing the section with the armrest, there are four screws you need to undo. The rear lifts up easily once these are undone, then you can lift the front and disconnect the cigarette power lead, after that you can pull the rear up a fair amount before you need to remove the USB and AUX connectors, there should be no issue accessing these. The whole section can now be removed.


Screws to remove


Section lifted up, and cigarette power cable


USB and AUX cables

Now remove the gearstick surround.

To remove the front section, you need to remove two split pins (not sure of the real name) from the passengers side, and one from the drivers side. There is also a standard push pin right at the back of the trim, next to the footrest.

You will also need to remove the panel under the steering wheel, this is done by first removing the panel on the far right, then remove the single screw, after that the panel below the steering wheel can be pulled off. I found it is easiest to start from the bottom and pull towards the seat.

Once these have been removed (a panel remover tool really helps), you can just pull the section towards you and out, there are no wires connected to it.


Front section removed

Remove the two bolts below the radio, and the three on top under the panel. Under this panel is where I chose to put my GPS receiver, I have yet to test how well it works, but sat in the drive it seemed to get a strong signal.


Screws under top panel

You can now pull the radio out, it will seem fairly fixed, but once all of the clips are out it will come out easily. The hazzard switch cable seems to be quite short, so this will need to be removed once the radio is slightly out. The other cables have a reasonable length to them, so you can remove them easier.

It has been mentioned in other threads that a small corner section needs to be removed for the unit to fit, and this is correct, however I also had to remove some more of the plastic.


Bottom left corner of plastic removed

I found that the fascia did not sit flush on the left hand side, removing the headunit and looking in showed that the screws were catching. I simply cut this plastic away, and now the fascia fits perfectly, without any heavy-handed antics. It may also be possible to trim the legs where the screws go into the fascia, but I did not try this.


Screws hitting internal plastic


Plastic removed


Fascia fitting flush with other panels

You will now need to connect up all of the wires for your headunit.


Headunit wiring

There is a small space at the back, almost like a shelf, where most of the wires will sit. It will take a bit of rearranging wires from underneath, but the headunit and fascia should go on without too much hassle.

Then replacing the panels is just the reverse of removing them.

Below are a few pictures of the headunit fully installed, and the place where my GPS receiver is mounted.

I've made sure to include a picture of the original screen, showing that it is working fully once the unit has been installed. Time is adjusted by holding down the "Mode" button, and then using the "CH" and "VOL" keys to alter the time and date values.

I don't know whether this is just with my headunit, or all headunits, but I was not able to assign a long-press of the steering wheel button to a function, as soon as the button was pressed, it set the function on the headunit. An example of a long-press functionality on the standard radio was to hold "CH" to change folders when using the USB input, but just a press would change track.


GPS receiver under top panel, and completed installation


Fully-functioning original screen, and headunit working
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Last edited by Dimplyred; 28th October 2013 at 01:05. Reason: Edited at OP's request.
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post #14 of 286 (permalink) Old 27th October 2013, 01:32
 
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Hello,

Looking wonderful so far, I cant wait to see the headunit installed tomorrow!

Last edited by faz12; 27th October 2013 at 01:41.
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post #15 of 286 (permalink) Old 27th October 2013, 05:17 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Man in Black View Post
the footwells are cracking.. you should knock them out!!
Thanks, I could maybe put together a few kits if they were requested.

Quote:
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Hello,

Looking wonderful so far, I cant wait to see the headunit installed tomorrow!
Thanks.

Depending on the weather I am hoping to also install the rear speakers tomorrow.

Where possible I will try to get a few more pictures of the headunit install, but I don't want to take it apart again just yet as I'll be doing that in a few weeks anyway. Completed pictures are of course no problem.

I've just uploaded a video of the unit with my initial impressions.

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post #16 of 286 (permalink) Old 27th October 2013, 22:09 Thread Starter
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Rear Speaker Replacement

Today I managed to replace the rear speakers, didn't take that long in total, and the panels were easily removed.

First, remove the armrest trim, this is easiest with panel remover tools, but some sort of plastic tool, or protected screwdriver will work.


Removing armrest trim


Armrest removed

There are six screws to remove here, then the panel will pull off with little effort. There are a few clips, but they did not cause me any issues.


Panel removed

The speaker is held in with a single screw at the top, and is slotted in at the bottom, these are not clips though, just tags.

My speakers were "sealed" to the door, so took a good pull to break the seal, you then lift the speaker upwards and it comes out. The wire is very short, and a bit fiddly to unclip.

Remember to also remove the bit that the screw fastened into.


Speaker remove, and screw fastener

I decided to use the Astra speaker rings, but they will require a few modifications to fit in the rear.

First is these plastic bits, they snap off very easily.


Plastic bits, and plastic bits removed

The next is to cut off some of the lower two mounting tabs, this is because the flat area to fix the ring onto is relatively small, and with two screw holes in both mounting points it means the ring cannot sit flat on the door panel.


Mounting tabs cut in half

The positioning is not overly critical, but certainly more-so in the rear than the front, hence I decided to mark the position of the original speaker and attach the ring in as close a position as possible.


Original position marked, and speaker ring installed

You will need to somehow attach the original wires to the new speaker, I chose to keep the original connector, and use some spade terminals to connect into it, along with a short length of wire to some female spade connectors suitable for the new speaker.

The yellow wire on the rear left is positive, and the brown negative.

The blue wire on the rear right is positive, and the orange negative.


Crimping spade connector, and completed wire


Wire attached to speaker, and wire attached to original connector

I decided to stick some foam around the outside of the speaker, not sure if it adds any benefit, but the original speaker had some and the new speakers came with some for the rear of the speaker, but not the front.


Speaker installed, and speaker with foam

The tweeter on the Infinity speakers is set at a non-adjustable angle, I decided to have this pointing up rather than down. It also has the option of being +3dB, or 0dB, I set mine to 0dB.
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Hello Mate,

I have been so busy with work etc and I just got around to watching your video.

I would like to start off by saying well done for setting the whole stereo up, you did an incredible job there.

I have a few questions from the video that you made earlier, I hope you could help me answer them.


1. at 01:34 Radio wont work? unless you connect your wireless dongle?
2. at 02:26 bluetooth / can you use it with your phone ?
3. where is the sat nav gps box? the small box where did you install it?
4. at 08:30 set steering wheel control will that work with any Honda civic ?
5. TV mode, do you get that with it or do you have to buy it separately?
6. at 13.30 Micro SD Card why wont some apps see it?
7. at 14:20 external microphone? i thought you managed to connect one manually ?
8. Have you managed to connect the back camera?

Thank you.
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post #18 of 286 (permalink) Old 30th October 2013, 00:32 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faz12 View Post
I would like to start off by saying well done for setting the whole stereo up, you did an incredible job there.
Thanks, it's quite simple when you come to do it in all honesty. The trim panels are easy to remove with minimal effort, and the stereo wiring literally just plugs into the existing connectors. The only issue I encountered was the screws hitting the internal plastic as I mentioned.

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I have a few questions from the video that you made earlier, I hope you could help me answer them.
Sure, see below.

Quote:
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1. at 01:34 Radio wont work? unless you connect your wireless dongle?
Sorry, I mean the dongle will not work rather than the radio. I have no idea why, but if you plug in a WiFi dongle when the unit is on, the dongle is not detected, other things like USB sticks and keyboard dongles are detected though. So all this means is you need the dongle plugged in before you turn on the radio, of course if you forget, just restart the radio.

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2. at 02:26 bluetooth / can you use it with your phone ?
Yes, but the mic was really quiet for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by faz12 View Post
3. where is the sat nav gps box? the small box where did you install it?
Post #13, first of the last four pictures. It's on the right under the top panel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by faz12 View Post
4. at 08:30 set steering wheel control will that work with any Honda civic ?
I don't see why not, as long as you have the Connects2 wiring kit.

Quote:
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5. TV mode, do you get that with it or do you have to buy it separately?
Analog TV is included, which of course is useless in the UK. DVB-T was an option, but I was later told an internal DVB-T tuner was not available from the supplier I used and so an external box was recommended.

I don't know if it is a good investment really, you can add an external one at any time, and a DVB-T2 tuner would be better due to HD channels being broadcast using that.

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6. at 13.30 Micro SD Card why wont some apps see it?
No idea, apps like Astro file manager see the card fine, but every music app I tried failed to see the card.

If you have any recommendations I can try them out.

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7. at 14:20 external microphone? i thought you managed to connect one manually ?
In theory yes, but as stock the unit does not have this capability. I am waiting until I receive my microphone and test it before I suggest it is possible.

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8. Have you managed to connect the back camera?
I've tested the camera, and it works fine, displays when you put the car in reverse, but I haven't installed the camera in the car yet. I'm in the process of doing so, but I need to wait for some other bits to arrive (not related to the camera) before I want to take the car apart again.
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Hello,

Thanks for your reply and for answering all my questions above. Really appreciate it.

I am really interested in buying a similar one now. I found this one on eBay but wasn't sure if this is the same.

http://bit.ly/17WGqX0

Thanks


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Originally Posted by faz12 View Post
Hello,

Thanks for your reply and for answering all my questions above. Really appreciate it.

I am really interested in buying a similar one now. I found this one on eBay but wasn't sure if this is the same.

http://bit.ly/17WGqX0

Thanks


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No problem.

Not the same I'm afraid. It is the same visually, but the hardware specs are around half as good as the unit I have, it has a resistive screen not capacitive, the CPU is a single core 1GHz not dual core, the RAM is 512MB not 1GB, and the Android version is only 2.3.4. I don't think it supports a USB hub either, maybe some other differences too, I'm not 100%.
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