Engine Temperature - Civinfo
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 22nd May 2018, 13:30 Thread Starter
 
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Engine Temperature

Hi


Does anyone know what the normal operating engine temperature should be for the 1.8 petrol? And has anyone else noticed their radiator fan ever come on?


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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 22nd May 2018, 13:40
 
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1.8 Petrol engine (R18A):
Starts to open 80 - 84 C
Fully open 95 C
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 22nd May 2018, 14:16 Thread Starter
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Excellent, thank you.


I checked the coolant temperature with a cheapo ODB2 reader at the weekend and the car thinks it was 91 degrees C, but no sign of the fan coming on. Is there an easy way to test if the fan works?


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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 22nd May 2018, 14:32
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What sort of position are you at on the gauge?

Anything under half and you should be fine;
Apologies for the poorly framed picture, but this has the position of the gague at operating temperature (Just after shutting down)



I'm aware that this is on a 1.4, But I'm reasonably sure that the (expected) gauge position is common across engine sizes.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 22nd May 2018, 14:35
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90c should put you slap bang in the middle of the temp gauge - perfectly fine.
what has made you question running temp?

i'd expect in this weather that just letting the car idle for 10mins once warm should trigger the fan. natural convection wouldn't cut it.
could also remove the slam panel plastic, block the rad off with some cardboard and go for a drive where you can pull over & remove cardboard when it gets too warm.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 22nd May 2018, 14:47 Thread Starter
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Many thanks for the replies.


Gauge is about the same position as the photo above.


What I have noticed is during hot weather (>20 degrees) and only once the car is warmed up, I think it's detonating/pinking occasionally and does seem more sluggish than when it's cold. I had read this can happen if the engine is running too hot, which I was wondering about because I can't remember the last time the engine fan ever came on. But sounds like the temperature is ok.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 22nd May 2018, 14:53
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Same temp reading position here as well so you're not overheating according to the gauge..
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 22nd May 2018, 15:35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stoat View Post
Many thanks for the replies.


Gauge is about the same position as the photo above.


What I have noticed is during hot weather (>20 degrees) and only once the car is warmed up, I think it's detonating/pinking occasionally and does seem more sluggish than when it's cold. I had read this can happen if the engine is running too hot, which I was wondering about because I can't remember the last time the engine fan ever came on. But sounds like the temperature is ok.
doubtful your knocking. code reader should show knock sensor triggers, although i cant think if i've seen that option on my 9g.
could the performance just be down to atmosphere - warmer temps means air is less dense?

If you still think it's mechanical, there's too many things as a potential atm; spark plugs, brakes started to bind a bit, bad tank of fuel...

Last edited by veehexx; 22nd May 2018 at 15:57.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 22nd May 2018, 15:41
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As above, You've already got an OBD2 scanner fitted - you should be able to find the knock sensors / knock detection for each cylinder amongst the other statistics.

Have a look around, and you should be able to confirm any suspicions.

Are there any other logged fault codes?
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 25th May 2018, 14:28 Thread Starter
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Sorry for the delay and thanks for the replies.


Actually I plugged in the OBD2 scanner to hopefully find a way of logging the knocking to prove it happens more when it's hotter. The only value I could find which sounded similar was called something like "cylinder #1 retard" which goes up and down as you drive about, I guess this is the timing being adjusted?



It doesn't do it when the engine is cold, but will when it's hot and on a hot day and under load, e.g. driving up hills, aircon on, pulling away from stationary (1st/2nd etc). I have noticed it does do this less using premium RON97/99 fuels and is worse with regular (95), so mostly use 99 during the summer which is obviously more costly. Mentioned it at the last service but got the usual "couldn't find anything wrong", but is very intermittent and wasn't a cold day. I did wonder if it's worth changing the spark plugs, they are looking a bit sooty but look ok I think (will post some photos later). It's done 50k miles, Honda said they are good for about 75k miles so convinced me it isn't that, so I started to wonder if it's something like a PCV value, which I previously removed and cleaned, but it doesn't look gummed up or anything.


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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 25th May 2018, 15:02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stoat View Post
Sorry for the delay and thanks for the replies.


Actually I plugged in the OBD2 scanner to hopefully find a way of logging the knocking to prove it happens more when it's hotter. The only value I could find which sounded similar was called something like "cylinder #1 retard" which goes up and down as you drive about, I guess this is the timing being adjusted?



It doesn't do it when the engine is cold, but will when it's hot and on a hot day and under load, e.g. driving up hills, aircon on, pulling away from stationary (1st/2nd etc). I have noticed it does do this less using premium RON97/99 fuels and is worse with regular (95), so mostly use 99 during the summer which is obviously more costly. Mentioned it at the last service but got the usual "couldn't find anything wrong", but is very intermittent and wasn't a cold day. I did wonder if it's worth changing the spark plugs, they are looking a bit sooty but look ok I think (will post some photos later). It's done 50k miles, Honda said they are good for about 75k miles so convinced me it isn't that, so I started to wonder if it's something like a PCV value, which I previously removed and cleaned, but it doesn't look gummed up or anything.


Thanks
I imagine this retard value would be the ignition timing:- Higher retard, lower knock, meaning less octane required.
This is why it is lower with a high octane fuel - I can't comment on the effects of season as I'm not a petrochemist (And I'd be driving a Bentley if I was! )

The ECU will automatically increase the retard value to prevent knock, and adavance it gradually until knock begins to occur before winding back slightly - this gives the most power possible for the octane of fuel being used.

You should have retard counters for the other cylinder - are they all similar values?

One more - Have you been fuelling from the same place? Is it a busy station?
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 26th May 2018, 10:36 Thread Starter
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Thanks for that, I'll have another look this weekend and see if I can find a knock value in the reader.

This has been going on since last summer but more or less went away over the winter when it was colder, but now the weather is warming up, it's worse again. So over that period been to lots of petrol stations, I mainly use Esso, Shell or BP but doesn't seem to make much difference which ones I use.

To answer a previous question, no, no fault codes logged on the reader.

Below are some images of my spark plugs which I took a month or so ago, anything obviously bad about them?









It's supposed to be nice and warm this weekend, so I'll see if I can record the sound it makes when I think it's knocking, could be I'm worrying about nothing and it's normal, would be good to confirm though.

Thanks!

Last edited by stoat; 26th May 2018 at 10:44.
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