AC Condenser Overhaul - Shim Replacement - Page 3 - Civinfo
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post #41 of 56 (permalink) Old 29th August 2017, 13:46
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Tried to follow this but it's way over my head! Pic help on the pdf though so thanks for that. Gonna take it down to a place near me to get it fixed!
Will check for the clutch though myself - so with the AC on it should spin the clutch mech - but if it doesn't it points to that being goosed?
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post #42 of 56 (permalink) Old 5th October 2018, 19:43
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Another thing ticked off the things to do list. Will only know if its worked next year I guess.
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post #43 of 56 (permalink) Old 21st April 2019, 00:54
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Excellent guide, thanks for pulling together. I've had a look at mine and the clutch seems to be knackered.

Question, I managed to loose of the nut holding the clutch plate on without having to hold the plate and the clutch plate not spinning at all, does this mean that the condenser might be seized/knackered as well? Also tightened back up and no movement.

Weighing up my options and c.125 for de-gas, clutch and re-gas is a bit of a punt and would be soul destroying if I had to get a recon condenser anyway.

Another question, I've got a Type R so didn't manage to get the clutch completely off as the distance between the pully and chassis is really tight, so looking like I'll have to take the condenser completely off either way, is there enough clearance with the sub frame to wriggle the condenser out or will I have to look at removing the beam and engine mount directly below it?
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post #44 of 56 (permalink) Old 21st April 2019, 08:48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypotter View Post
Question, I managed to loose of the nut holding the clutch plate on without having to hold the plate and the clutch plate not spinning at all, does this mean that the condenser might be seized/knackered as well? Also tightened back up and no movement.

Weighing up my options and c.125 for de-gas, clutch and re-gas is a bit of a punt and would be soul destroying if I had to get a recon condenser anyway.
The clutch should be free to spin by hand when its disengaged (AC is off).
If the clutch is not engaging / disengaging when the AC is switched on/off then that needs to be fixed before getting a regas.
I'd probably get a garage to replace the whole compressor and regas. Its *possible* that its just the clutch that's knackered but the garage I spoke just wanted to swap the the whole compressor, I guess less fault finding is required that way.
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post #45 of 56 (permalink) Old 21st April 2019, 15:30
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypotter View Post
Excellent guide, thanks for pulling together. I've had a look at mine and the clutch seems to be knackered.

Question, I managed to loose of the nut holding the clutch plate on without having to hold the plate and the clutch plate not spinning at all, does this mean that the condenser might be seized/knackered as well? Also tightened back up and no movement.

Weighing up my options and c.125 for de-gas, clutch and re-gas is a bit of a punt and would be soul destroying if I had to get a recon condenser anyway.

Another question, I've got a Type R so didn't manage to get the clutch completely off as the distance between the pully and chassis is really tight, so looking like I'll have to take the condenser completely off either way, is there enough clearance with the sub frame to wriggle the condenser out or will I have to look at removing the beam and engine mount directly below it?
I tried the same thing yesterday and had exactly the same issue. There is a comment a bit further up this thread where a guy said he managed to move the engine slightly using a crowbar so he could get the plate off. He said it is easier if there are two people, one to move the engine while the other one takes the plate off the spindle. I couldn't see where you would wedge a crowbar to get enough leverage and was worried I might do some serious damage so I gave up. Let me know if you have any success.
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post #46 of 56 (permalink) Old 21st April 2019, 17:40
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Thanks wilson10 I thought that should be the case, I think best thing to do then is replace the compressor, Eurocarparts have a decent sale on at the moment so can get a reconditioned Lucas one for 350 (after 70 surcharge).

OOCH - Yeah I saw that post, didn't have another set of hands and couldn't manage prying it on my own. I'm going to get a de-gas and then change the compressor myself, hoping to not take the beam off but doesn't look all that if I need to, four bolts and then a bolt to an engine mount. I've got the car booked in at TDI North for some work next week so might be a few weeks before I get round to it, will let you know how it goes when I do get to it.
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post #47 of 56 (permalink) Old 22nd April 2019, 14:14
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickypotter View Post

hoping to not take the beam off but doesn't look all that if I need to, four bolts and then a bolt to an engine mount. I've got the car booked in at TDI North for some work next week so might be a few weeks before I get round to it, will let you know how it goes when I do get to it.
Do you mean the beam that sits underneath it?
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post #48 of 56 (permalink) Old 22nd April 2019, 15:11
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Yes, #29 in the attached picture. Not much clearance and might be useful to have out the way to get access to the bolts holding the compressor in place
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post #49 of 56 (permalink) Old 23rd April 2019, 14:13
 
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Yes, #29 in the attached picture. Not much clearance and might be useful to have out the way to get access to the bolts holding the compressor in place
Cheers for that. Wonder if it's possible to loosen the compressor and just move it enough to get the clutch plate off without having to completely remove and degas?
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post #50 of 56 (permalink) Old 23rd April 2019, 22:40
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Quite possibly, looks like clearance is only short by a few mm, although might be tricky if you need to replace the pulley and/or coil as well, looks they are held in with snap rings...

I've ordered the compressor so will be replacing the lot at some point.
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post #51 of 56 (permalink) Old 26th April 2019, 14:45
 
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Originally Posted by rickypotter View Post
Quite possibly, looks like clearance is only short by a few mm, although might be tricky if you need to replace the pulley and/or coil as well, looks they are held in with snap rings...

I've ordered the compressor so will be replacing the lot at some point.
Yeah, the coil is definitely held in by a snap ring. I saw a video of someone trying to get one off that was rusted. They had to hammer round it to loosen up the rust before it would budge. Pretty sure mine just needs the shim removing or replacing with a thinner one. My air con worked for about 20 minutes after I put it all back together. The rust I scraped off must have given it a bit of life.
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post #52 of 56 (permalink) Old 9th June 2019, 19:55
 
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I just wanted to add to this thread and let you all know that I followed the guide and it seems to have fixed my air con.

I asked a few garages to do the work in the guide for me (as I didn't have wheel ramps to get under the car). They all refused and just wanted to sell me a new compressor for 400+.

So for 40 I got some wheel ramps and did it myself (following the guide). I used a metal rod to hold the clutch plate in place just like the guide creator. I replaced the shim that was already on there with a 0.3mm thick 10x16mm shim I got off of eBay.

Just done a 50 mile round trip and the air con was coming on every time I wanted it to.

Thanks again to the creators of that guide. You saved me hundreds.
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post #53 of 56 (permalink) Old 8th August 2019, 16:01
 
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Hi All, great guide 👍🏻
Currently under the car doing this at the moment, have managed to get the nut off to slide the clutch cover but there isn’t enough room to get it off the spindle (fn2 Type R) any tips on how to prise the engine accross to gain some room. Doesn’t look like many safe options?

Thanks
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post #54 of 56 (permalink) Old 16th August 2019, 08:57
 
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Just to update this to help anyone else.
I couldn’t manage to move the engine over by myself to get the clutch cover off, so I used a magnet to pull the current shim away from the housing so it was in the middle of the shaft looking from under the car. I then used some narrow wire snips to cut the shim then safely manoeuvre it off the shaft i also cleaned the rust off the inside of the clutch cover before resembling. And hey presto the aircon has now worked fine everyday since and doesn’t cut out once car gets up to temperature !

I had bought thinner shims to refit but coming across the above problem just went ahead with shim removal only. The current one was quite thick that I removed compared to the 0.1&0.2mm shims I purchased

Hope it helps someone, and thanks op for the guide Cheers
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post #55 of 56 (permalink) Old 17th August 2019, 13:18
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Just wanted to say thanks for this thread and guide

My air con had the typical failure case, stopping working after about 10 mins on a hot day - perfect!
Someone had already 'been here' because the air con relay had already been changed to the updated part.
My 'clutch gap' was over 1mm so I was fairly confident this was the issue. Makes me wonder if they all left the factory out of spec?

My usual garage also just wanted to fit a new condenser, but then didn't even phone back with a price for that!

So I bought some ramps and managed to do it fairly easily in about an hour or so (1.8 petrol).
I braced the clutch plate with a length of 15mm copper pipe as per the guide.
I struggled a bit to undo the nut, but managed it with some persistence.

This was a good few weeks ago and the AC had been perfect ever since
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post #56 of 56 (permalink) Old 31st August 2019, 18:47
 
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Nice one mate, that was my plan but not had the chance to try it yet. Glad to know it works.
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