[How To]Hardwiring a Dashcam - Page 14 - Civinfo
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post #261 of 273 (permalink) Old 31st March 2018, 00:11
 
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Originally Posted by Loxy View Post
The fuse took my Thinkware F750 no problem.

Don't confuse cigar lighter fed for USB connectors. Dash cams are meant to run in a car which outputs 12v from the cigar lighter so be sure about what the Cam needs before shelling out on voltage convertors!
Point taken - I'll ensure I check the dash cam requirements before committing. Appreciate the help
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post #262 of 273 (permalink) Old 17th September 2018, 21:30
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Ah this is the post i was looking for! My dashcam wire has fell out and i couldn't remember which pin it was
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post #263 of 273 (permalink) Old 27th October 2018, 12:21
 
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Hi
thanks for the guide I’ve hard wired my dash cam and it’s working great 👍 but I’ve since purchased a Pioneer ND-BC8 rear view camera.

Would i be able to take a additional feed from the same point as the dashcam to feed power for the rear view ? Obviously at the fuse box side of the inline fuse.

I could just go with the permanent feed for the dash cam if needed yet i was thinking of having them both feed when the ignition was running.

Thanks in advance
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post #264 of 273 (permalink) Old 27th October 2018, 12:35 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Throttle View Post
Hi
thanks for the guide I’ve hard wired my dash cam and it’s working great 👍 but I’ve since purchased a Pioneer ND-BC8 rear view camera.

Would i be able to take a additional feed from the same point as the dashcam to feed power for the rear view ? Obviously at the fuse box side of the inline fuse.

I could just go with the permanent feed for the dash cam if needed yet i was thinking of having them both feed when the ignition was running.

Thanks in advance
For a Reversing camera you can tap the +12v reverse pin.
If you want you can go with the +12v ignition pin for the camera as well.
Its what I have done in my imp, I and I can switch the headunit to view it even when doing 100km/h on the freeway.
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post #265 of 273 (permalink) Old 27th October 2018, 14:20
 
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Thanks so I’m safe on using the same one then, thought i would be yet thought I’d just check incase lol
Just had a nightmare trying get wires from front to back and then i ended up sending the cable through the seal on the passenger door so I’ve had to cut, resolder and heat shrink it all together again...hence my delay back lol
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post #266 of 273 (permalink) Old 28th October 2018, 13:05 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Throttle View Post
Thanks so I€™m safe on using the same one then, thought i would be yet thought I€™d just check incase lol
Just had a nightmare trying get wires from front to back and then i ended up sending the cable through the seal on the passenger door so I€™ve had to cut, resolder and heat shrink it all together again...hence my delay back lol
Should be fine, those pins are fused and connected to internal circuits.

Pin 1 is connected to fuse 10(based that this is the fuse for the reverse circuit)
Pin 4 is connected to fuse 14 or fuse 15(based that the clearance light circuit uses these fuses)
Pin 5 is connected to fuse 27
Pin 8 is connected to the ignition circuit

NOTE: I can't verify which fuse protects which circuit apart from pin 5 which we know needs a fuse in number 27.
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post #267 of 273 (permalink) Old 31st January 2019, 17:19
 
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I just used the 12V socket

BlackVue DR900S-2CH (4K at front) yeah yeah, 4K is not necessary pehaps, but its my money

Only did the front, because didnt wanna bother with removing trim the same way I did for the front to get that long cable from front to rear.
If I am in the mood I might visit the dealer or a 'specialst' to install that cable for the rear camera.

Other than hardwiring to the battery or fusebox, is an optional external LiFePO4 battery for the parking mode.



















EDIT: this is my install on a 10th Gen civic, so it may be removed...
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post #268 of 273 (permalink) Old 1st February 2019, 08:53
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The only difficult bit of fitting the rear cam is getting down the flexible tube to the inside of the hatch.
Pull off the door seals. Feed it down the A pillar, along the floor and up the C pillar.
Use an old wiper blade stiffener (or similar) as a 'mouse' to pull/push the cable through. Simples.
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post #269 of 273 (permalink) Old 1st February 2019, 12:51
 
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Entering and exiting the C pilar and entering the flexible hose of the hatch seems to me the most daring....or I'm looking at it completely wrong...

Dunno, would have to try it first I guess.
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post #270 of 273 (permalink) Old 1st February 2019, 16:25
 
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added some pics

If I work from front to back or if I decided to guide the cable towards the gap between the D pillar and the roof liner as shown here:


....is it correct to assume I can just push the headliner trim after I guided the cable thru the black rubber hose, it will appear in between the two?

But if I read correctly, thats not the hardest part, but the hardest part is guiding the cable through the black hose:


edit: now I tried it and indeed, you can just push the cable between the gap of the liner and the D pillar trim.
And its easy to see the cable through the hole.

And I also know what everybody is talking about: its a bitch to get that cable through the black hose.
But thats work for tomorrow.

What do you guys use to make it glide easier? I've read somewhere that bulb grease eases the process....

Last edited by Riko; 1st February 2019 at 17:18.
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post #271 of 273 (permalink) Old 1st February 2019, 18:44
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See post #268 and washing up liquid works for me every time. Water soluble so washes off easy peasy if you get it somewhere you don't want it. And it's slippery as ???? whatever.
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post #272 of 273 (permalink) Old 16th June 2019, 12:57
 
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lol, i posted here too?

Rear was installed loong time ago...just using the fingers did it, no issues what so ever
I one of the other many cam topics I even posted detailed pictures of my rear cam install...
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post #273 of 273 (permalink) Old 25th June 2019, 22:01
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M8TJT View Post
@Riko
The only difficult bit of fitting the rear cam is getting down the flexible tube to the inside of the hatch.
Pull off the door seals. Feed it down the A pillar, along the floor and up the C pillar.
Use an old wiper blade stiffener (or similar) as a 'mouse' to pull/push the cable through. Simples.


Same on FN1 ... I cut the cables ... inserted inside ... then I soldered and isolated them. Never had a problem.


Sent from my IPhone X using Tapatalk
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