I will mate yeah. Just got to remember to take plenty pics. Will have a mate there too as I'm doing his lightened flywheel and clutch on his supercharged m3 engined Z4.
Firstly, I changed the front pads on my last civic without too much bother, though I am by no means a mechanic neither do I have a great deal of experience with motors from a mechanical perspective, so, would you say this fairly straight forward to carry out?
Secondly, the how to guide I followed last time suggested you remove the cap from the top of the brake reservoir, due to pressure changes when you push back the piston, is that not necessary?
It is a good idea yeah but I had some fairly new pads on for mot purpose. I was changing disks and Pads for a half decent set so there was minimal movement on the caliper.
This is almost exactly the same as the fronts just that the caliper needs winding back.
For the front pistons, as they don't turn, how do you use the wind back tool to push them back, or is it literally as simple as using the tool to push them back? lol
Great write up!
Am no mechanic and have to ask, is it not bad to remove reservoir cap then push the fluid back into the system with the piston?
Did mine last summer and I've always used pipe into a small bottle of fluid then undone the bleed nipple and pushed back the piston. Keeping an eye on the reservoir level. Then bled the system.
Saint2K, the only thing I would add when doing the fronts, clean the grime off the piston before pushing back in so you don't damage the seal. The rear piston has a rubber boot.
Great write up. I just went to challenge mine. Back end on stands, stripped both side down and...... "oh crap wheres my long nose pliers". Oh yeah there in my wagon 20 miles away. So iv now rebuilt the car and im shocking wet through. Hot bath and a brew I think, Iv ordered a wind back tool of the eBay.
Front caliper mounting bracket bolts - 108nm/80lb ft
Front caliper guide bolts - 35nm/26lb ft
Rear caliper mounting bracket bolts 55nm/ 41lb ft
Rear caliper guide bolts 35nm/ 26lb ft
thank for nice tutorial. Just got 2009 2.2 Civic and absolutely love it. My rear brakes really need attention going to buy discs + pads in a day or two
brakes look pretty the same as was in my Mazda 6 so dont think I will hit any problems doing it
I am thinking of getting EBC drilled discs. Any suggestions?
thanks
I'm just wondering how you could jack up the car and then lip an axle stand under. Presumably a trolly jack would go on the jacking point so where would you put the axle stand? On my old Mk3 Gold there were various locations for jacking and support but options seem a bit limited for the civic. Are there any other structural beams or strong points? ta
On the rear you can use the central rear towing hook at the back. The front jacking point is a long way back though, it's further back than the engine so unless you can get the car high enough to begin with to get the Jack under, you'd need a very low profile & long jack!
The way I did it recently to get all 4 wheels off, was to Jack the back end up with a trolley Jack under the towing hook. For the front I used the side jacking points then put axle stands under the front subframe bolts. I also used axle stands under the rear jacking points so as not to rock the car off the rear trolley Jack under the tow hook.
Fronts I jacked on the sill lip. Then slide the stands under the lower arms, the big bush housing at the rear of the arm that bolts to the chassis, it's strong enough to hold the weight.
Thanks for the how to
Did my rears today
Had to drill out the disk screws and tap them out again. No problem 5.5 MM drill and 6mm tap. Ended up borrowing a wind back tool, can't believe you could do them without one.
Painted callipers as well
Fronts next weekend
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