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Replace rear Disks and Pads.

20K views 47 replies 17 participants last post by  nturnb 
#1 ·
1. Jack and secure on axle stands then remove wheel.

2. Using a 13mm socket and 15mm spanner undo the 2 bolts securing the caliper to the carrier.







3. Carefully move caliper clear of the hub. It may be stiff but will go with a little persuasion.



4. Next using a 14mm spanner or socket undo the 2 bolts securing the carrier. After removing old pads.



5. With a philips screwdriver remove the 2 screws securing the disk. If they are stiff give a good spray of wd40. In extreme cases may need drilling.



6. Disk should now simply come off with a small tap from being with a hammer.



7. Now you have it apart. It's a case of reassembly in the opposite order.



8. Note the pad with the squeal indicator should be fitted to the inside position.



9. I didn't use a wind back tool. I simply used some long nose pliers to turn the piston while pushing in to reset caliper.



10. Once reassembled stand back and admire your work.





Be sure to start engine and pump brake pedal till firm before driving off and torque wheel nuts to specified manufacturer settings..

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#7 ·
Great guide. Two questions!

Firstly, I changed the front pads on my last civic without too much bother, though I am by no means a mechanic neither do I have a great deal of experience with motors from a mechanical perspective, so, would you say this fairly straight forward to carry out?

Secondly, the how to guide I followed last time suggested you remove the cap from the top of the brake reservoir, due to pressure changes when you push back the piston, is that not necessary?
 
#8 ·
It is a good idea yeah but I had some fairly new pads on for mot purpose. I was changing disks and Pads for a half decent set so there was minimal movement on the caliper.

This is almost exactly the same as the fronts just that the caliper needs winding back.


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#26 ·
Great write up!
Am no mechanic and have to ask, is it not bad to remove reservoir cap then push the fluid back into the system with the piston?

Did mine last summer and I've always used pipe into a small bottle of fluid then undone the bleed nipple and pushed back the piston. Keeping an eye on the reservoir level. Then bled the system.
 
#32 ·
Great write up. I just went to challenge mine. Back end on stands, stripped both side down and...... "oh crap wheres my long nose pliers". Oh yeah there in my wagon 20 miles away. So iv now rebuilt the car and im shocking wet through. Hot bath and a brew I think, Iv ordered a wind back tool of the eBay.

Thank you ☺

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#33 ·
Torque specs as follow

Front caliper mounting bracket bolts - 108nm/80lb ft
Front caliper guide bolts - 35nm/26lb ft
Rear caliper mounting bracket bolts 55nm/ 41lb ft
Rear caliper guide bolts 35nm/ 26lb ft
 
#35 ·
thank for nice tutorial. Just got 2009 2.2 Civic and absolutely love it. My rear brakes really need attention going to buy discs + pads in a day or two
brakes look pretty the same as was in my Mazda 6 so dont think I will hit any problems doing it
I am thinking of getting EBC drilled discs. Any suggestions?
thanks
 
#36 ·
I'd avoid drilled disks unless your racing and buying real expensive disks.

Grooved are okay or dimpled, but plain work well and don't make any droning noises.

I say get plain disks/vented/coated and exotic pads. Hit up Stewart at FreakyParts for MTEC disks.
 
#37 ·
I'm just wondering how you could jack up the car and then lip an axle stand under. Presumably a trolly jack would go on the jacking point so where would you put the axle stand? On my old Mk3 Gold there were various locations for jacking and support but options seem a bit limited for the civic. Are there any other structural beams or strong points? ta
 
#38 ·
On the rear you can use the central rear towing hook at the back. The front jacking point is a long way back though, it's further back than the engine so unless you can get the car high enough to begin with to get the Jack under, you'd need a very low profile & long jack!

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#39 ·
The way I did it recently to get all 4 wheels off, was to Jack the back end up with a trolley Jack under the towing hook. For the front I used the side jacking points then put axle stands under the front subframe bolts. I also used axle stands under the rear jacking points so as not to rock the car off the rear trolley Jack under the tow hook.

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