Radio screen segments problem and pop sound - Civinfo
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post #1 of 50 (permalink) Old 22nd June 2016, 06:23 Thread Starter
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Radio screen segments problem and pop sound

Let's start with the symptoms.
The major fault with the radio two:

1. Periodically, the screen light up all segments.
Over time, the problem progresses, the screen will light up constantly, and then it all turns into clicks and spontaneous on-off with an inscription on the AUX screen.

2. Off of the segments on the screen.
Over time, it lost more and more segments. Some, after heating the passenger compartment or a pair of fist blows on the dashboard screen starts to operate normally.

We will understand in turn with each of the problems:

The reason for periodic or constant glow of the screen - the thermal breakdown of the zener diode D783 in the chain of supply 5 volts.
Reason subsequent clicks - overheating of the linear regulator power audio processor IC712.

How does this happen.
Panasonic engineers incorrectly calculated the ballast resistor R789 zener diode, the zener flows the maximum allowable current, the zener diode is overheated and is its thermal breakdown. Zener diode ceases to give proper reference voltage to the transistor, the fully open and the radio power circuit falls into place 5 7-8 volts. It becomes noticeable in the first place on the screen (it lights). From the same voltage is fed to the radio a lot of things, including a power converter for the audio processor. From high voltage it starts to heat up more, heated up to a certain critical temperature, and it is activated thermal protection that it begins to turn off - include. At the same time we are beginning to hear the applause.



How to treat the problem.


First you need to remove the head unit from the car radio.
Then disassemble the head unit


In the photo marked problem areas \ details:
The picture control voltage written on them control everything renovated.

Change in the zener diode D783 BZX55C5V6 in a glass enclosure with the leads and solder it on these findings away from the transistor. Legs are marked with black top ring to the point, without rings to the bottom left. Trying to look at the original Zener SMD package is stupid idea.

If the screen is not lit continuously, the Zener still not completely burned, and breaks it only at a good warm up. In this case, when checking his multimeter it will look quite serviceable. I would like to change it, it is not necessary to wait for its final combustion.

To reduce the current through the zener change the R789 resistance to any nominal value 200-390 ohms in standard size 0805. I put 390 ohm usually. Just change standing next to a capacitor C784 100mkF * 10B. By heating it dries and loses half capacity. I change to a suitable size with a nominal value of 100mkF * 16B and preferably 105 degrees.

It turns out the following picture:
To change or not the transistor Q784 (2SD1758) here moot and everyone decides for himself the extent of their capabilities.
In principle, the current through the transistor goes to 1A area is half of its maximum, this will not burn it. But setting the transistor to a larger rated current decreases its heat.
If there is no transistor in a suitable housing, it is best not to fence garbage hung on wires from the transistors and leave everything as it is.

For it is desirable to use an air desoldering station.
I for repair sealed his place MJD44H11G transistor with a maximum current of 8A.
But then again, it is not necessarily. Leave everything as it is, if there is the necessary equipment or the transistor and the city Frankensteins.

The scheme of power we have corrected, regulators have become less warm, but still they are significantly heated. We solve this problem, as elsewhere, - putting up radiators on all that hot.

I use the radiators on the memory chips cards:
They are excellent for our purposes.
Glue them to the thermally conductive adhesive. I use a two Arctic the Alumina Adhesive , and can Alsil, but one component, in this check when buying whether it is not dried up. Thermal paste, or you can not use superglue! Thermal Grease poorly kept, and superglue bad conductor of heat. Just do not use the Velcro that goes glued to some radiator factory. She also poorly kept falling off and with good heating. On the mound radiator can fall off and get something close. Only the hot melt! Search glue and radiators should be in local shops of computer junk.

Clay heatsink on the transistor Q784 and standing next stabilizers IC701, IC712, IC401. Since stabilizers IC701 and IC401 around the little room, and they do not heat strong - I sawed in half and one heat sink glue them half, but at the IC712 necessarily a glue. IC712 most heated, due to its overheating occur and clicks.

The result is the following picture.

Now you can safely put the radio.
During assembly it is necessary not to forget to put a conventional thermal paste on a large heatsink, which is set to the amplifier transistor 2 and the side of the head unit. At its factory forgot to apply!
Now we assemble everything in reverse order and enjoy operating the radio.

And now briefly to the masters:
Change in the zener diode D783 BZX55C5V6 or any other 5.6 volt 0.5 watt cathode upwards. Change the R789 resistance to any nominal value 200-390 Ohm in 0805.
If possible, change the transistor Q784 to something appropriate to the body with a large current (such as MJD44H11G), if there is no suitable housing - leave as is.
Change the capacitor C784 to the appropriate dimensions and parameters with a temperature of 105 degrees.
Be sure to stick to the hot melt adhesive heatsinks on Q784, IC701, IC712 and IC401. In Q784 and IC712 as possible bigger and taller.
When assembling the amplifier heatsink coat with thermal paste.

If you have not started having problems, but you want to prevent them in the future - change the resistance, seal the radiators on the transistor and stabilizers and the assembly promazhte where necessary, thermal paste and your tape recorder to work happily! It is better to prevent a problem than to treat it.

2 problem.


The reasons for the problems.
Blame fallen off most contact soldering matrix LCD screen to the motherboard. Usually extreme fall off contacts.


Perhaps the plant using fragile lead-free solder may not fully washed flux, perhaps, too lazy to bite off the long ends. But after some time under vibration load brazing destroyed.
To display diagnostics - through diagnostic mode light all segments of the screen (how to do this is described below). If any segments light up - then blame display.

How to treat the problem.
You can buy on the dismantling of the same screen, but the problem of the mass, and sooner or later will come and fur animal to the next screen.
To repair it is necessary to solder all the screen contacts with ordinary lead-containing solder.

In short - it:
1. Remove the triangle over the radio, unscrew the 2 screws beneath the screen.
2. Remove the speedometer up visor.
3. Take out the speedometer itself.
4. Take out the radio screen.
All this business is held by snap, otkovyrivat convenient special plastic spatula to remove the skin.

After removing the screen from the machine screen itself from black plastic and remove the white back cover closing costs. Everything is fixed as by snap.

Before soldering it is desirable to wash with soldering varnish solvent place, so soldering will be much easier.
After all welds are not in a hurry to collect. Connect the screen to the radio and check the result.

For ignition of the screen characters:
1. Turn on the radio.
2. When it is on, simultaneously press and hold the "1" and "6" buttons and holding them to press the power button. "DIAG" sign appears on the screen. If it is not lit up - turn the tape recorder and try again. Main synchronously press "1" and "6".
3. Press the "3" button is switched on and off all display segments.
4. To exit the diagnostic mode Hit the mute button radio.

When all segments lighted stir a finger contact tails. If nothing is lost - all soldered well, you can still collect and set back. If you are lost - propaivaem again.

Sorry for my language, my 1st language is GERMAN, 2nd Lithuanian, 3RD Russian, and 4th is ENGLISH
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post #2 of 50 (permalink) Old 22nd June 2016, 19:03
 
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Excellent guide I may give this a go or buy an OEM stereo for £28. I guess with the the dash out I can attach an AUX lead too.
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post #3 of 50 (permalink) Old 23rd June 2016, 05:37 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nigel Fotherby View Post
Excellent guide I may give this a go or buy an OEM stereo for £28. I guess with the the dash out I can attach an AUX lead too.
Its an of all radio, its design fail, but it is small, easy to fix, and i will write aux guide, true aux, not xcarlink or any, which sounds treble.
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post #4 of 50 (permalink) Old 23rd June 2016, 06:21
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Great guide. Thanks for taking the time to write it. Nice pictures also. You don't need to apologise for your language, I understood the guide perfectly. Thanks again
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post #5 of 50 (permalink) Old 23rd June 2016, 08:21 Thread Starter
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post #6 of 50 (permalink) Old 27th June 2016, 11:18 Thread Starter
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UPS, about capacitor C784 100mkF * 16B - B in Russian language is V , sorry forgot to change it
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post #7 of 50 (permalink) Old 9th August 2016, 06:36 Thread Starter
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did some more for friends
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post #8 of 50 (permalink) Old 9th August 2016, 07:00 Thread Starter
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Update, to get in





i hope this helps
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post #9 of 50 (permalink) Old 19th August 2016, 21:23
 
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Hello,

thank you for your great job!

I am trying to develop my own audio-hvac display controller. So do that, I need to know HVAC status data sequence and display protocol between radio and display.

Today I have connected my scope to Data and clock pins to solve the protocol, but it is not easy
It is a serial but not a standart protocol, like rs232 etc... or my tetkronix scope doesnt know the honda's

Do you know the protocol btw. radio and screen?
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post #10 of 50 (permalink) Old 6th January 2017, 13:29
 
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Hello,

Thank you xfiniti64 for your guide!

After many years of experiencing the 'pop' (or in a my case, a loud quadraphonic bang!) , I followed this and the other thread "All characters visible on radio screen" and tackled the job over the Christmas break (on my 2006 EX).

I managed to change the zener diode to the spec mentioned, but I could not change the C784 capacitor, or the Q784 SMD transistor - just couldn't de-solder the components, so gave up. I did however apply the heat sinks and a lot of thermal grease.

After a week of travelling up and down the motorway, with the heater on 'high', the problem has gone! Hooray! Not sure whether it is my ears (!), but both sound quality and radio reception 'appear' to be better (smoother sound, and reception is more stable). Maybe its the heat dissipating properly now...

One regret - as I had the car in bits, I should have added the 'aux in' port using a Xcarlink or something... Ah well, a job for another day.

Cheers!
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post #11 of 50 (permalink) Old 21st February 2017, 08:17 Thread Starter
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Zener diode is what cost problems, it is calculated to weak by pioneer engineers. How to solder you can find in youtube, it is so easy , watch youtube. I do SMD like this guy
capacitors
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post #12 of 50 (permalink) Old 21st February 2017, 08:51 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaferhasim View Post
Hello,

thank you for your great job!

I am trying to develop my own audio-hvac display controller. So do that, I need to know HVAC status data sequence and display protocol between radio and display.

Today I have connected my scope to Data and clock pins to solve the protocol, but it is not easy
It is a serial but not a standart protocol, like rs232 etc... or my tetkronix scope doesnt know the honda's

Do you know the protocol btw. radio and screen?
It is not so easy, its not 2 way, but 3 way, body computer is involved too. All that connects 2 and so on, will mess up body computer and on HDS you will see million errors.
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Did the diode conversion today. I once had the radio turn off with the popping sound, this was after driving for 7 or 8 hours. I did have the occasional lighting of all the segments, so hopefully this is all fixed now. So far it works as normal
Also, I thought I had a dead pixel (or something like that, as this type of displays does not work with pixels) because there was a small point lighting up in the top right corner of the screen sometimes, but it turns out it was the dash in "DF-SCAN". Maybe this was also a problem with the zener diode?

I changed all the parts. So including the transistor, capacitor and resistor. I soldered the new diode in the same way as in above picture, and also glued it to the board to reduce the risk of it breaking of due to vibrations.

At the same time, I did the aux conversion. In total I spend around 6 euros. 3 for the electronic parts (I bought spares of everything, in case I would mess up the soldering) and 3 for the plug with aux cable.

My screen was not missing segments, so I skipped this part. Maybe later?

Thanks Xfiniti64 for the info and clear description!

Last edited by Iceman78; 4th May 2017 at 19:11.
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post #14 of 50 (permalink) Old 28th July 2017, 11:16
 
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Thank you for this tutorial. I had the 2nd problem and solved quite easily.
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post #15 of 50 (permalink) Old 29th July 2017, 20:41
 
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I've had the missing character problem appear randomly.

Took it to Honda dealer that supposedly replaced the display, but problem still there.

I might tackle this myself at some point, as it doesn't seem too difficult.

Not had the radio overheat/popping issue yet, that fix seems a bit trickier.

Thanks for the guide, very helpful!

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When re-soldering the pins on the back of the radio display, would you use lead-free solder like what is already used, or lead/tin solder as it is more resilient to car vibrations? I guess mixing solder types isn't a great thing to do.

The guy in the video below simply heats up and resets the solder already on the board. Maybe this is good enough?


Last edited by Quagmire; 31st July 2017 at 11:16.
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Please help me!

I just did this modifikation, but the C 783 just have one side. The oder i can not solder.
Please tell me what is the C783. It is a resistor or what?

Thank you very much
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Please help me!

I just did this modifikation, but the C 783 just have one side. The oder i can not solder. It s broken
Please tell me what is the C783. It is a resistor or what?

Thank you very much
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post #19 of 50 (permalink) Old 3rd August 2017, 12:29 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by balla1 View Post
Please help me!

I just did this modifikation, but the C 783 just have one side. The oder i can not solder. It s broken
Please tell me what is the C783. It is a resistor or what?

Thank you very much
It is capacitor not resistor, parts who starts R in front is resistors.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quagmire View Post
When re-soldering the pins on the back of the radio display, would you use lead-free solder like what is already used, or lead/tin solder as it is more resilient to car vibrations? I guess mixing solder types isn't a great thing to do.

The guy in the video below simply heats up and resets the solder already on the board. Maybe this is good enough?

I use normal lead solder, lead-free is for in hazardous area sensors and so on. I use good wipe with acetone, because, the PCB is covered in Lacquer, after i soled puting more and more solder, i use good clean and spray with specific for PCB electronics Lacquer.
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