[HOW TO] replace front Brake-discs and brake pads - Civinfo
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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 14th October 2009, 08:51 Thread Starter
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[HOW TO] replace front Brake-discs and brake pads

This is my first how-to so be gentle

How to replace the front discs and brake pads.

Used:
- ATD drilled and vented sport discs
- EBC Greenstuff Brake Pads

Remove both front wheels.

Remove the two screws from the disk.


Remove the flange bolt while holding the calliper pin with a wrench. Be careful not to damage the pin boot.


Remove the brake hose mounting bolt


Remove piston. Press in the piston with the brake calliper piston compressor so the calliper will fit over the brake pads and hang him out of the way with some rope.


Remove the brake calliper bracket mounting bolts (sorry no picture)

Remove break-discs by hitting them careful with a hammer. Clean the front hub and apply copper grease to the front hub.


Install the new disc and insert the two screws


Install the brake calliper bracket and tighten the bolts with max 108 Nm.


Take the new brake pads and apply a thin coat of copper grease to the top en bottom edges and the thin coat of copper grease on the flat side of the outer pad.


Clean the piston shim and apply a thin coat of copper grease. Place the shim in the calliper body.


Install the caliper by sliding it gently over the brake pads. Insert calliper bolts and tighten them with max 35 Nm.


Re-install the brake hose mounting bolt and tighten them with max 35 Nm.

Re-Install the wheels. Put your Civic back on the floor, start your engine and pump the break a few times.

Go for a short drive to "feel" the braking.

and your done

Remember not to brake hard for around 125miles / 200KM to let the discs set.
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Last edited by Pottsy; 16th October 2009 at 18:56. Reason: Spelling at the request of the OP
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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 15th October 2009, 18:34
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as simple as you've made it look...I don't think I could ever do my own brakes. I'd be too scared of getting it wrong
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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 16th October 2009, 18:57
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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 16th October 2009, 19:06
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Its really quite easy dw7, but the rear brakes require a 'wind back' tool. You can push back the front piston quite easily
BTW...its a good opportunity to paint the calipers, while they're padless and split apart.
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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 16th October 2009, 19:38
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Thanks for this

But...
Is it not bad to force brake fluid back past the master cylinder?
Thought it damaged the seals.

I always thought you were supposed to use a pipe calmp on the flexible hose....open the bleed valve... then push the piston in. (That way the fluid comes out the bleed valve and not back through the master cylinder). Lock the bleed valve off when the piston is in... remove clamp...carry on.

Bleed brakes after to check there is no air pulled in to the system and that level is OK.





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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 17th October 2009, 08:40 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbo51 View Post
BTW...its a good opportunity to paint the calipers, while they're padless and split apart.
I know. But there was no time to let the calipers dry

But they will be painted in future
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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 17th October 2009, 08:59
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Nice work

How do you rate the new pads and disks compared with the original Honda ones ?
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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 17th October 2009, 09:08
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They are better (I retained the original discs) but the biggest difference is the vastly reduced brake dust
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 17th October 2009, 09:32 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Munro View Post
How do you rate the new pads and disks compared with the original Honda ones ?
Hard to say yet. Just fitted them 4 day's ago. But it feels like smoother braking.

They look better
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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 17th October 2009, 10:09
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Re-paint them? Ie touch them up?
Coz as we both know, mine are already blue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robbo51 View Post
Its really quite easy dw7, but the rear brakes require a 'wind back' tool. You can push back the front piston quite easily
BTW...its a good opportunity to paint the calipers, while they're padless and split apart.
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post #11 of 46 (permalink) Old 8th June 2010, 05:43
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sfinx View Post
Hard to say yet. Just fitted them 4 day's ago. But it feels like smoother braking.

They look better
I noticed this too. I just installed the new brake discs and I feel the difference.
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post #12 of 46 (permalink) Old 15th July 2010, 22:19
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I'll be doing this - this weekend hopefully.

do you need to bleed the brake fluid when pushing the piston back on?
what would you recommend using to push the piston in? can you use your hands, or is it tough, so pliers or something?

Thanks
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post #13 of 46 (permalink) Old 10th August 2010, 05:03
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danlat1415 View Post
I'll be doing this - this weekend hopefully.

do you need to bleed the brake fluid when pushing the piston back on?
what would you recommend using to push the piston in? can you use your hands, or is it tough, so pliers or something?

Thanks
Ive done the same method (re brake fluid issue) as with SfinX and just pushed the pistons back on a mate's STI 4 pot Brembo while changing brake pads.. Learned that this is the wrong method.. Ive been told that you should open the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay, wrap like absorbent material around it (as when you push the pistons, fluid gets pushed back into here) and then adjust the pistons, so that pressure doesnt build up. Once youre completed, check the level (in case some fluid did spill out, and then top up with new fluid)

But then again, I may be wrong.

But sounds like the right thing to do in my opinion.
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post #14 of 46 (permalink) Old 8th November 2010, 12:38
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This is a great how-to. Easy to follow and good pics.

As for pushin the fluid back into the reservoir. According to my local Honda's workshop guide this is what the mechanics are told to do by Honda. Good enough for them, then it's good enough for me.

Cheers for this. Saved me a bundle of cabbage which would have been owned by the dealer otherwise.

Last edited by Krysten CTR; 8th November 2010 at 12:40.
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post #15 of 46 (permalink) Old 23rd January 2011, 15:06
 
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I have replaced mine

With help from this post and the one for rear brakes i replaced all mine with EBC Turbo grooved discs and green stuff pads. The only problem i had was one of the studs sheared off my rear hub due to a seized wheel nut so had to buy a new stud and nut from Honda.

The reason i decided to change all mine was A) my front discs were basically at the end of their life, B) the brake dust from oem pads and discs is ridiculous, C) OEM pads and discs wear out to quickly, and D) my car was standing for about three days and when i tried to move it the rear pads had stuck on the discs, i rocked the car with the clutch and they became unstuck but unfortunately on of the rear pads braking material had separated from the backing plate and stuck to the disc making the car undrivable
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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 23rd January 2011, 15:10
 
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Forgot to mention

Remeber to buy or make a bleeding kit and bleed the brakes into that using the nipple, do not push calliper piston in and force the fluid back into the master cylinder.
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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 4th May 2011, 15:41
 
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Fantastic guide, changed my rear discs / pads last week. This guide made it much easier.

As a side note it may be worth mentioning if your discs are seized on with rust (mine were not). There are two bolt holes on the disc which take a 8mm 1.25mm thread bolt to screw in push the disc off the mount (small turns equally to both sides, if you do this).

You can get these bolts from d-fix, handy to have as a precaution rather than hitting the disc for hours as I've previously done on other cars.
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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 12th May 2011, 12:53
 
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I've just fitted all new Discs and Pads to an '06 Civic. I'd like to add the following observations.
On the Civic I went for OEM Honda discs and pads - 260 incl VAT from Honda for 4 discs and 4 sets of pads.
The quality is excellent. I was particularly impressed with the OEM Pads, they come complete with 8 new brass/alloy Pad guides, new Caliper bolts, and new stainless steel shims for the front calipers. You don't get these with pattern pads.
On the above guide copious amounts of Coppa Slip have been appled to the rear of the pads. Do NOT do this with OEM pads. The OEM pads have a thick layer of adhesive on them, peel off the protective backing paper before you refit the caliper, and the Pads are then stuck firmly to the Caliper and the Piston, ensuring there is no pad rattle.
OEM Pads and Disc's are far better than cheap pattern parts, not to expensive, and they will last twice as long as cheap pattern parts.
The stopping power is excellent, Honda would not provide a car with *****e brakes would they?
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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 12th May 2011, 15:14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliShaff View Post
I've just fitted all new Discs and Pads to an '06 Civic. I'd like to add the following observations.
On the Civic I went for OEM Honda discs and pads - 260 incl VAT from Honda for 4 discs and 4 sets of pads.
The quality is excellent. I was particularly impressed with the OEM Pads, they come complete with 8 new brass/alloy Pad guides, new Caliper bolts, and new stainless steel shims for the front calipers. You don't get these with pattern pads.
On the above guide copious amounts of Coppa Slip have been appled to the rear of the pads. Do NOT do this with OEM pads. The OEM pads have a thick layer of adhesive on them, peel off the protective backing paper before you refit the caliper, and the Pads are then stuck firmly to the Caliper and the Piston, ensuring there is no pad rattle.
OEM Pads and Disc's are far better than cheap pattern parts, not to expensive, and they will last twice as long as cheap pattern parts.
The stopping power is excellent, Honda would not provide a car with *****e brakes would they?


Yes. They call them eco friendly as a justification.
But yes all they extras in the pack would be nice in other aftermarket sets.



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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 12th May 2011, 23:23
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Good guide overall, clear pictures and instructions but agree with Relic on the point below re: pushing the piston back, think there could have been an extra bit of description there.

Added point is that the rear caliper pistons are often seized (due to handbrake being left on) and even a retracting tool can buckle... open bleed nipple and bring the hammer with a little bit of pin point force to free the piston, then try the retracting tool again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Relic View Post
Thanks for this

But...
Is it not bad to force brake fluid back past the master cylinder?
Thought it damaged the seals.

I always thought you were supposed to use a pipe calmp on the flexible hose....open the bleed valve... then push the piston in. (That way the fluid comes out the bleed valve and not back through the master cylinder). Lock the bleed valve off when the piston is in... remove clamp...carry on.

Bleed brakes after to check there is no air pulled in to the system and that level is OK.

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