Honda civic 2.2 2006 tow bar fittment - Civinfo
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 9th April 2017, 20:48 Thread Starter
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towbar fitment

Hi guys while as a supporter I was waiting to get this (how to) approved, I completed the job and did not fully document wiring as I though my post was deleted. never the less full details below.

check you have the right tow bar . if you gonna cry about a scratch on your paintwork make sure you have plenty of bubble wrap and spledgers and tools, do it if you are capable mechanic or diy'er . time taken 4 hours for tow bar and 3 hours for electrics could be done quicker slower but depends on weather and person, it was sunny so i took lots of lazy breaks

if you have parking sensors fitted check that wires have plenty of slack before you fully remove bumper , i managed to rip one wire out of my sensor as the installer had not routed cable correctly. in either case i was able to fully disassemble sensor unit and re-solder wire to it.

so to start forgive me if I forget tiny bits.

my car 2.2 2006 civic sport 8th gen

1. remove mudflap screw on either side with correct Phillips head to avoid destroying the head.
2. remove the 4 clips from the bottom of the bumper 2 in the middle and 2 in join between side arch trim and rear trim. (do not remove clips on exaust area trim) (have spare clips to hand in case any break ,easily purchased)
3.remove clip from side of wheel arch trim mud flap.
4.pry back side arch trim and undo screw carefully not stripping head.
5.remove 4 plastic covers in boot area and undo the 4 bolts.
6 next if I remembered everything correctly you need to push each side of the bumper where the screw was and pull out at the same time. This is tricky if your do not know how to do it.
7.now with bumper loose disconnect parking sensors if you have them and are able to.
8.remove bumper
9. remove back crash bar 3 bolts on either side , bottoms one were hard to get out so suggest you do those first and plenty of lubricating spray.
10.lift crash bar up and take off.
11.follow instruction for your tow bar assembly , mine was already built , so slot the 2 long arms in to the gaps where the 3 nuts were.
12.use a jack to help you steady and position the tow bar, then add the bolts according to your tow bar, mine used 2 on either side making 1 redundant either side at the bottom.
13. the 2 long arms have 2 big bolts under chassis, the back one's are easy to get in as hole is massive , but front one need perfect alignment as hole is same size as bolts or your in for a long day.
14.Put the bumper back on partially and mark exactly the area where tow bar is, if you have a type s -r splitter or bumper, cut may have to be big. once you marked it, just saw it down a bit and bend the plastic, your personal choice if you want to cut pefect notch, you may not even need to do this.
15.that completes tow bar fitting, electrics tomorrow
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Last edited by rizlaw; 9th April 2017 at 21:20. Reason: spelling and updating
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 9th April 2017, 21:29 Thread Starter
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rear crash bar pic forgot to add
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 13th April 2017, 20:45
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Great write up , I have just done this very job today and I`m looking for a write up for the wiring so I can do that tomorrow . I believe you need to cut into the wiring on the rear right above the wheel , anybody got any pictures of it please ?

Have attached some photos of mine too
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 17th April 2017, 09:10 Thread Starter
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Hi guys, sorry been busy .

wiring can be done 2 ways , tailor made for honda harness , cost around 80-150 or just solder or join the wires.

I did the join the wires way.

1. remove everything from boot (including jack and tyre repair fluid),covers ,parcel shelf(including jack and tyre repair fluid) and put seat down at the back.
2. remove the velcro and clipped in cover between seats and boot.
3.remove 2 bolts on top ,remove covers for bolts in spare wheel area and remove 2 bolts . remove spare tyre lid and take out of car.
4. lightly loosen rubber seals around boot and side door trims
5. remove plastic cover at back of boot by pulling up hard it has some clips so check or do slowly.
6.remove lift up floor trim at side of back doors and then carefully pull or use long flat wide screwdriver to pop of clips for back large side panel covers.
7. take out seat belt from cover by just twisting and turning
8. back to the boot pop as many clips you see, then apparantly thier are some clips near the plastic inserts for jack and tyre fluid(i could not find them and broke my insert clips)
9. from boot pull real hard once all clips are loose and gently pry out.then go to side door area and pry out and push out of boot.
10. do this for both sides

now the wiring

two grey clips which go to the back lights one on each side.

earth is a nice handy point on the right hand side of boot.

wiring colours

left hand side
red cable red lights or trailer side lights and parking lights
blue cable indicator light left
green cable brake

right side behind panel are.
red cable red lights or trailer side lights and parking lights
brown cable indicator light right
green cable brake

you need to have a audible relay which connect to the indicator on both side and earth , this then out puts to the trailer wires.

i have not connected fog or revers or spilt charge relay yet ,will be doing that when i have time and i will upload pics then.

now i know every one hate scotchlock connectors but if you know how to use them and carefully guide wires in there you should not have a problem.

I did all mine with scotchlock and everything is working well.

only if your doing the split charge relay will you need dedicated terminal or solder.
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Last edited by rizlaw; 17th April 2017 at 09:22. Reason: spelling
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 20th July 2017, 10:25
 
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What's a spledger?

I'm going to attempt this this weekend.

Can I confirm that you used the genuine Honda tow bar?

Know if there are pics anywhere?

Thanks, Rob
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 15th February 2019, 17:22
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rizlaw View Post
Hi guys while as a supporter I was waiting to get this (how to) approved, I completed the job and did not fully document wiring as I though my post was deleted. never the less full details below.

check you have the right tow bar . if you gonna cry about a scratch on your paintwork make sure you have plenty of bubble wrap and spledgers and tools, do it if you are capable mechanic or diy'er . time taken 4 hours for tow bar and 3 hours for electrics could be done quicker slower but depends on weather and person, it was sunny so i took lots of lazy breaks

if you have parking sensors fitted check that wires have plenty of slack before you fully remove bumper , i managed to rip one wire out of my sensor as the installer had not routed cable correctly. in either case i was able to fully disassemble sensor unit and re-solder wire to it.

so to start forgive me if I forget tiny bits.

my car 2.2 2006 civic sport 8th gen

1. remove mudflap screw on either side with correct Phillips head to avoid destroying the head.
2. remove the 4 clips from the bottom of the bumper 2 in the middle and 2 in join between side arch trim and rear trim. (do not remove clips on exaust area trim) (have spare clips to hand in case any break ,easily purchased)
3.remove clip from side of wheel arch trim mud flap.
4.pry back side arch trim and undo screw carefully not stripping head.
5.remove 4 plastic covers in boot area and undo the 4 bolts.
6 next if I remembered everything correctly you need to push each side of the bumper where the screw was and pull out at the same time. This is tricky if your do not know how to do it.
7.now with bumper loose disconnect parking sensors if you have them and are able to.
8.remove bumper
9. remove back crash bar 3 bolts on either side , bottoms one were hard to get out so suggest you do those first and plenty of lubricating spray.
10.lift crash bar up and take off.
11.follow instruction for your tow bar assembly , mine was already built , so slot the 2 long arms in to the gaps where the 3 nuts were.
12.use a jack to help you steady and position the tow bar, then add the bolts according to your tow bar, mine used 2 on either side making 1 redundant either side at the bottom.
13. the 2 long arms have 2 big bolts under chassis, the back one's are easy to get in as hole is massive , but front one need perfect alignment as hole is same size as bolts or your in for a long day.
14.Put the bumper back on partially and mark exactly the area where tow bar is, if you have a type s -r splitter or bumper, cut may have to be big. once you marked it, just saw it down a bit and bend the plastic, your personal choice if you want to cut pefect notch, you may not even need to do this.
15.that completes tow bar fitting, electrics tomorrow
how long it took for you to do the job?
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 15th February 2019, 18:02
 
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I just bought tow bar 7 pin gonna try to fit that in a upcoming days
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  Civinfo > 8th Generation Euro Honda Civic (2006 - 2011) > This is How To ... (Guides Only) (8G)

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