How to: Change drop links the easy way - Civinfo
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post #1 of 82 (permalink) Old 28th August 2011, 08:26 Thread Starter
 
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Lightbulb How to: Change drop links the easy way

I changed the droplinks on my Civic yesterday as there was a terrible knocking noise coming from the suspension - it took less than 30 mins and that included moving the car as I can only get to one side at a time in the garage. I've seen a few requests for a how to on here and loads of threads saying how difficult it is so I thought I'd share my way of doing it.

I bought the drop links from eBay for 23 a pair.

First off jack up one side of the car and remove the front wheel (don't forget to properly support the car). I have an electric impact gun which makes short work of the nuts but I always undo and do up the locking bolt by hand.



Next spray some PlusGas on the threads of the drop links. PlusGas is easily the best stuff for getting stuck nuts and bolts apart - it's a specific dismantling fluid as opposed to stuff like WD40 which is a water-displacing spray. If you don't have any PlusGas in your garage I strongly suggest you buy some as it's brilliant.



Whilst the PlusGas was soaking in I cleaned off the face of the hubs with a wire brush. They were covered in rust and the alloys were stuck solid to them.



Here's how I loosened the bolts. I used a crappy 14mm spanner and an old 5mm hex wrench with a lump hammer to get things going. I didn't use any good tools as there's a real danger of breaking something. Take care to clean the inside of the bolt out where the hex wrench goes in order to get the most amount of the tool inside. The hex wrench will turn but gets stuck against the strut so you only have to worry about moving the spanner.



This method worked for three out of four. For the final nut more drastic methods were needed. First off heat the nut with a blow torch.



Once it's nice and hot spray something from a can into the hole where the hex key goes (use a straw). I used WD40 but anything that comes out of a can as a vapour will do. The blow torch heats both the nut and bolt up so they expand. Sparying the WD40 into the bolt causes it to cool rapidly and shrink - the vapour takes a lot of energy to convert to a gas from a liquid due to latent heat so it comes out super cold. With the nut expanded with heat and the bolt contracted by cooling they will come undone very easily. You can't beat the laws of physics!



With the bolts loose undo them but leave them on the threads half a turn or so.





Support the bottom of the hub - I have some blocks of wood strapped together for this exact purpose. The support has to be sturdy enough to take a good amount of weight.



Now lower the jack. As the body of the car lowers the tension in the anti roll bar reduces. Let the jack down enough until the droplink is free inside the mounts. Undo the bolts and remove the drop link - have the new one to hand as I found the anti roll bar moved a touch after a min or so. Switching them out instantly will save a bit of faffing around.

The new drop llinks came with bolts but I stuck a couple of M10 washers on I had to hand.





The new bolts are 17mm and there are 17mm flats at the back of the bolt for a spanner to hold it in place.

I also smeared a little copper grease on the face of the hub to stop the wheel sticking to it.



The car is now knock free - job done!
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Last edited by voicey; 28th August 2011 at 17:25.
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post #2 of 82 (permalink) Old 28th August 2011, 08:39
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Think this should be moved to the 'How-To' section!

BIG BIG thanks for this Voicey... as you may know I've been asking for this guide for a long time now! Sick and tired of paying 100 a throw to the dealer!!

You've just saved me a lot of money my friend!
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post #3 of 82 (permalink) Old 28th August 2011, 09:48
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Cracking job mate! Very helpful indeed!!


Sctrpop used Tapatalk to post this!!
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post #4 of 82 (permalink) Old 28th August 2011, 10:03
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thats a good write up mate
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post #5 of 82 (permalink) Old 28th August 2011, 10:06
 
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I ended up jut cutting the things off.

I always find it more comfortable to have the car on stands, then use the jack to support the strut while you remove the drop link.
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post #6 of 82 (permalink) Old 28th August 2011, 10:13
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i love how to's.
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post #7 of 82 (permalink) Old 1st September 2011, 11:31
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Good how to guide mate, had the same thing but luckily for me i had access to a lift and airpower tools, all done in 20 mins and standing up too

Better than the 194 quoted to me by the honda dealership
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post #8 of 82 (permalink) Old 2nd September 2011, 15:54
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I have advice for those who are unbolting rusty bolts underneath a car.

Spray wd40 or similar (to all the bolts you are planning to take off ) a DAY BEFORE you are planning to do the work. Simple as that. No need to heating or anything else. And no broken bolt or nuts.
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post #9 of 82 (permalink) Old 2nd September 2011, 20:10
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Good write up.

Just done mine today using the exact ones from eBay,

Managed to loosen the bolts but they were to tight to get them completely off so i just took the angle grinder righ through them.

Used a second trolly jack to jack up the hub and fit the new ones.

Took about 30 mins all in.
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post #10 of 82 (permalink) Old 3rd September 2011, 23:12
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replaced mine under warrenty after a bust up at the dealer they wanted 200+ to do mine said warrenty doesnt cover it
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post #11 of 82 (permalink) Old 13th September 2011, 23:00
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looks pretty annoying


Got mine done under warrenty.

great howto though! Thumbs up!
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post #12 of 82 (permalink) Old 14th September 2011, 21:50
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i have this knocking noise also can anybody do this change for me as I don't have cahunas to try

PM me
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post #13 of 82 (permalink) Old 20th September 2011, 07:30
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Great write up there buddy
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post #14 of 82 (permalink) Old 17th October 2011, 02:07
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anyone have a link for the droplinks on ebay?
how much does honda charge out of interest?
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post #15 of 82 (permalink) Old 17th October 2011, 07:47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f.ss.t View Post
anyone have a link for the droplinks on ebay?
how much does honda charge out of interest?
Honda charge 80 each to change
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post #16 of 82 (permalink) Old 17th October 2011, 09:35
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post #17 of 82 (permalink) Old 15th May 2012, 02:41
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Will be using this how to soon. Cool how to



Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2
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post #18 of 82 (permalink) Old 15th May 2012, 15:56
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Every thought about working for Hayes

Very clear
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post #19 of 82 (permalink) Old 16th May 2012, 13:48
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Cars all done. Found it easier to jack both sides up to release the tension. Had to get the angle grinder out on the drivers side.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2
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post #20 of 82 (permalink) Old 1st June 2012, 09:41
 
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I did mine recently by splitting the cover of the ball joint and using a pair of stilsons on the ball and a socket on the nut. Worked a treat.

Regards Martin
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