In all honesty, I'm led to believe that it is 1200w RMS, but without having the manual handy, I can't be certain.
As for your comment regarding the fuse not blowing... I've not necessarily checked the fuse as the replacement fuse holders I buy come with a replacement 60a fuse, so have just swapped the whole unit out. I have checked the current fuse, and there doesn't appear to be any damage to it (I may need to crack open the fuse holder to examine it).
Volume wise, I'm rocking a JVC KW-R600BTE
which has a max volume limit of 50, I'm listening at volume 30-35 90% of the time, with the remaining 10% of my listening time being around volume 10-15 for chatting with passengers/finding suitable 'bass intense' tracks.
Regarding the contact of wire to fuse holder, should I be using another kind of fuseholder? Or is there a particular method for ensuring this connection is terminated with a large contact point (i.e. solder the contact)? Because at present it is just that the sheath is stripped back, with the wire then placed into the metal contacts (as far as they will go), and then 'screwed' into the contact. The fuse holder is then sealed with a rubber stopper which is held solidly in place by a plastic clip screwing to the main body of the holder (and seems like a solid unit so it won't budge). I'm using one of these fuseholders (AGU Fuseholder
) and always have done so advise if there are better ones which have better contact methods
I've got some 4AWG cable on order so will be replacing the whole 8AWG wire with that, tried tracing the wire and can't find where it goes through the grommet... bloody grommet!
Thanks for the advice.