Subwoofer not what I expected?! - Civinfo
 2Likes
  • 1 Post By veehexx
  • 1 Post By supa-nova
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 17th March 2018, 19:45 Thread Starter
 
Join Date: 14th December 2013
Location: Nottingham GB
Posts: 21
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
Subwoofer not what I expected?!

I got round to installing a 1000w Fli sub and amp to the factory headunit with use of a LOC.

Checked all connection and stuck a CD in with a lot of bass... and was disappointed.

The sub is working as you can hear and feel when touched but playing round with the setting on both amp and LOC bearly makes a difference. There's defiantly more bass but not much ... I expected even at volume setting 20 to get a loud boom boom ect and to see the sub speaker in action.

Something I've done wrong or is this to be expected from a factor HU?
supa-nova is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 17th March 2018, 21:15
Supporter
 
Bones126's Avatar
 
Join Date: 25th October 2017
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 1,157
Thanks: 85
Thanked 96 Times in 96 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Garage
Not sure what you me by use of LOC but I had a similar problem, mine was because the connection of the wires from the speakers I taped into had not connected correctly.. I ended up making sure a bare wire to wire connection was made and that make a big differance. Soldering the wires is best if you can.
Bones126 is offline  
post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 17th March 2018, 21:37
Supporter
 
veehexx's Avatar
 
Car: 2015 CTR FK2
Join Date: 28th October 2015
Location: midlands, uk GB
Posts: 2,252
Thanks: 47
Thanked 220 Times in 197 Posts
iTrader: (1)
Garage
i use a VIBE 2ch LOC (soldered on high-level side; RCA on preouts) and it works fine on the factory HU - 9gen Honda Connect system. Cant tell theres a LOC in the system at all and works just as well as pre-outs on the HU directly. functionality wise it's fine, no idea about sound quality, but no perceivable degradation over stock.

do you have the phase right?
i found with a reversed phase, then the bass would feel like it's behind you and lacked depth. in-phase made the bass feel like it's inside your head and felt a lot fuller.

i assume you've tried playing around with gains?
do you have a 3.5mm to RCA so you can test with your phone/laptop/whatever connected directly to the amp?
Bones126 likes this.

Last edited by veehexx; 17th March 2018 at 21:39.
veehexx is offline  
 
post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 17th March 2018, 21:55 Thread Starter
** Thread starter **
 
Join Date: 14th December 2013
Location: Nottingham GB
Posts: 21
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
This is what I did . Speaker wires have been tapped into using them blue wire splicers but the wire insulation stripped off before crimping.
Battery to Amp as standard.
Earth from amp to chassis
Earth from LOC to amp
12v switch on loc to cig lighter rear
Rem from LOC to amp

Checked the + and - wires on speakers are correctly tapped into

Don't get me wrong it's improved the bass in the car but seems lacking in the sense of use with a aftermarket unit. In the old car with aftermarket would shake the windows this doesn't.

Played around with the gain on amp and LOC = not much difference


So are you saying that there shouldn't be a difference in output from sub using factory HU?
supa-nova is offline  
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 17th March 2018, 22:15
Supporter
 
veehexx's Avatar
 
Car: 2015 CTR FK2
Join Date: 28th October 2015
Location: midlands, uk GB
Posts: 2,252
Thanks: 47
Thanked 220 Times in 197 Posts
iTrader: (1)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by supa-nova View Post
This is what I did . Speaker wires have been tapped into using them blue wire splicers but the wire insulation stripped off before crimping.

So are you saying that there shouldn't be a difference in output from sub using factory HU?
been there with the blue wire splicers (fyi: scotch locks).
95% of the time perfect, the rest of the time was either half volume or no signal at all so they're not that reliable. once i found this out, i moved to soldered and not had a problem since.

difference in output - no difference between using an aftermarket HU with RCA pre-outs and factory HU with LOC.
tbh, there should be no real difference between factory HU & LOC and aftermarket. amplifier duties are being taken away from the HU and done via an external amp.
veehexx is offline  
post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 17th March 2018, 22:47 Thread Starter
** Thread starter **
 
Join Date: 14th December 2013
Location: Nottingham GB
Posts: 21
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
Ok so you would advise me to revisit the scotch locks on speaker wires and solder them?

Would cheap rca leads cause much of an issue as the ones used were cheap/free sent by issue I Mean deteriation of the signal

And if no luck tomorrow I'll see if I can pick up a 3.5mm to rca and try it with my phone.

Thanks for advice and info btw
supa-nova is offline  
post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 18th March 2018, 09:16
Grumpy Old Git ;)
 
Deathstar's Avatar
 
Car: 12 2.2 CR-V EX (The wifes)
Join Date: 3rd August 2009
Location: Lancashire SCOTLAND
Posts: 362
Thanks: 62
Thanked 41 Times in 35 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Scotch locks should be banned in my opinion.
The only way to get s proper connection is to complete a soldered splice.

a. use a sharp knife to strip away about 1 cm of insulation from your existing wires WITHOUT cutting or damaging the metal conductor inside.
b. Expose about 1 cm of the metal conductor at the end of the wire you want to attach.
c. Then twist the exposed wire you want to attach around the exposed section of wire (2 cm long).
d. Solder into the join for a permanent connection.
e. Wrap the whole lot tightly with insulating tape or if at all possible use heat shrink.

That would give the best join.

Sent with the help of Tim Berners-Lee....
Deathstar is offline  
post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 18th March 2018, 11:24
Super Moderator
 
M8TJT's Avatar
 
Car: 10G 1.5 Civic Prestige
Join Date: 10th October 2015
Location: Bexhill, Sussex GB
Posts: 2,789
Thanks: 80
Thanked 204 Times in 196 Posts
iTrader: (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathstar View Post
Scotch locks should be banned in my opinion.
Except that the insulation displacement technique has been used successfully for years. But certainly not the best method in high current scenarios
Quote:
The only way to get s proper connection is to complete a soldered splice..
Not true. Crimp and wire wrap are sometimes preferred over soldering.
M8TJT is offline  
post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 18th March 2018, 12:50
Supporter
 
Bones126's Avatar
 
Join Date: 25th October 2017
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 1,157
Thanks: 85
Thanked 96 Times in 96 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Garage
As soon as I removed the blue sctchlocks and connected directly it improved things, also as mentioned above try playing with the phase but sit in drives seat to listen not over it while messing.
Hope it improves for you.
Bones126 is offline  
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 18th March 2018, 14:27 Thread Starter
** Thread starter **
 
Join Date: 14th December 2013
Location: Nottingham GB
Posts: 21
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader: (0)
After yesterday failed attempt I've revisited the speaker wire taps and surprise to find the scotch locks hadn't spliced correctly into the new speaker wire. So stripped back both cables and soldered them n hay Presto a working sub. However I did notice when I wiggle the LOC plug that connect to the LOC it self loss of audio occurred.

The plugs pins seem a little loose. Must be a design floor or just because it's a cheapo LOC
Deathstar likes this.
supa-nova is offline  
post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 27th March 2018, 13:48
 
Honda-Sub's Avatar
 
Join Date: 27th March 2018
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Wink Auri

mine was ground cable fault. I expecting you have an adapter ( RAC ) if is adjustable then try to play with it. and if not check if all cable are connected properly I would recommend To have Multimeter or just pay 250-300 and buy aftermarket headuni that makes things cooler and easy
Honda-Sub is offline  
post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 27th March 2018, 13:59
 
Honda-Sub's Avatar
 
Join Date: 27th March 2018
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader: (0)
I have 1000w sub and 400w amb- more than enough

Last edited by Honda-Sub; 27th March 2018 at 14:02.
Honda-Sub is offline  
Reply

  Civinfo > 8th Generation Euro Honda Civic (2006 - 2011) > Ipods, MP3 Players and ICE (8G)

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Civinfo forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Your User Name is the name that appears by all your posts on the forum, and so should not be your email address.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Brakes Is this expected? BluBlu Wheels, Tyres, Suspension and Brakes (8G) 12 26th May 2017 22:50
expected price? stevenedgar General Discussion (8G) 6 2nd October 2014 21:02
Induction Supercharger, expected BHP ? modd1uk Engines and Transmission (8G) 7 28th February 2012 19:26
Suspension Eibachs Just Arrived, Not Quite As Expected bronze Wheels, Tyres, Suspension and Brakes (8G) 10 16th April 2011 17:33
Expected Gains????????? gruesome-n Type-R 29 15th August 2009 12:14

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome