HID 9G Facelift Aftermarket HID Installation - Civinfo
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post #1 of 61 (permalink) Old 14th October 2018, 23:42 Thread Starter
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9G Facelift Aftermarket HID Installation

As you may have seen me mention elsewhere, I've been using HIDs in the Dip projectors since March this year, firstly with a naff ebay kit as a proof of concept, followed by a more substantial

What I'm using:
Dip: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...0?ie=UTF8&th=1
I strongly reccomend this kit; I've never had a missed strike, any output shaking etc. - Ignition is swift and reliable, for both cold and hot strikes.

Main Beam: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A cheap kit to see how HIDs fared in the main beam housing. I'm looking to replace the ballasts, as they have a far longer warmup than dips, which isn't great on main beam. Once warm, restrikes are quick though, so there's no issues when dipping for a passing car etc.
I'll probably change the ballasts over to a 55W.

Fitting:
Thanks to the small size of the 1.4, There's oodles of space in the bay to access bulbs and fit ballasts.
I've fitted the right headlight ballasts atop the suspension mount, and the left ballasts behind the fuse box (With trim tape to hold) and ziptied atop the battery.

Bulb fitting is straightforward - insert it, as you would a halogen bulb, and guide the wires through the bulb clip - This is easier than it sounds, honest! - If you fancy less fiddling, Morimoto make H7 HIDs with removable wires, allowing you to easily clip them in and add the wires afterwards, though they aren't cheap and are in the USA.
The ballast wiring is very self explanatory - Red to red, black to black - Fittings are male / female and specific, so it's difficult to go wrong, provided you are using an AMP ballast - These are ubiquitous amongst 99% Of retrofits, unless you start switching over bulb types.

Once the bulb is fitted, and wired to the ballast, connect the ballast wires to headlight power - Then give the headlights a quick test. If it fails to strike, switch over the power connections, and it should work, if not, check connections, or you may have a dodgy kit.
When the bulb has been tested and is working, tuck the power connection inside the unit, and set the ballast in the approximate mounting point. You can run the cables out of the headlight without cutting / omitting the cap by "wedging" the cap into the housing using the top two mounting holders. It can take a few attempts, but once done, the cap WILL fit firmly. I've had mine wedged in such a way for 10000 miles of driving, including potholes, the south M25 Concrete section, dodgy country lanes et al, and they are completely solid - If yours aren't, try again until they are wedged.

These images show some of the fitting positions, and how I've run the wires out of the headlight housings without omitting or drilling the caps:


These ballasts are mounted one atop the other on the suspension mount - You'll notice the small brass bolt to the frame - This is an optional grounding wire for the 55W ballast, which Honda have handily provided a perfectly threaded hole for!
Note the scores on the cheap 35w Ballast - A good display of why you must ensure the ballast is secure! :s


Here, the green 55W ballast is tucked against the wheel arch behind the fuse box. There is some foam tape holding it in place - I'd warn against using trim tape as a sole method of securing the ballast, but it works here as it's already a conveniently shaped space. There was another convenient threaded hole on the frame for the grounding wire.

The 35W Ballast is mounted atop the battery housing - If you do this, be careful to ensure it's not in countact with the terminals. I've also added some trim tape underneath (A few layers) to insulate it from the battery to prevent heat transfer - The ballasts will get very warm.


Beam Pattern, Warmup time:
This video shows warmups for the dip & high beam.
Bear in mind that after the first strike, the bulbs are warmed up, and restrike quicker - Though this isn't good for the longevity of the bulbs - Hence I don't expect the high beams to live too long, though they should survive longer than a halogen in theory.
Something rather comedic at the end... (Don't use wipers as a camera holder!)

The projectors in use on the facelift are perfect for use with HIDs; As you can see below, the cutoff is sharp (Note that camera bloom does make the lines look a little blurred; It's razor sharp in real life) and effective - Kickups and bright spots are preserved, giving (very!) good visibility into the roadside, as well as enhanced light at the furthest points of the pattern.




The sharp cutoff ensures that oncoming traffic is not blinded by glare:- I've never been flashed in the UK, though I was flashed once in Germany without beam deflectors (Given the ECE Type approval in the manual, They aren't needed! I dipped the beam further using the adjuster.)

Output:
The result of a HID fitting is vastly increased light output, and a nice, perfect white colour temperature (Depending on your choice of kit) that matches DRLs and looks far more like it should.
Illumination for night time driving is brilliant in every sense.

As seen here, the appearence of light is a perfect match to the DRLs, which gives a perfect OEM look; It's rather jarring to see a facelift with halogen candles!


At a recent meet, The output of my HIDs was on par with the LED's of the Type R / Top of the line models, which isn't bad for 20 minutes and £40!


This image was taken on a mountainside in Snowdonia, with a heavy overcast, at night - About as dark as it gets! I'm fairly sure this is dip + main, but I can't remember now!

The output of a HID bulb is greater than even a decent LED bulb - This picture shows the original cheapo Ebay kit (crap!) next to a good LED in the high beam (Though there is the warmup tradeoff):
https://i.imgur.com/xKZjrIA.jpg
This image is taken from directly in front of the car - The right side HID is massively overpowering the LED!

This (rather dry) video shows the dip beam in action on the M20 at night; Pardon the dashcam quality - It is not as effective as the eye, as I'm sure you're aware - Actual light penetration in person is far further, but this gives a good idea of the temperature, view of beam pattern, and reflective qualities as I enter the roadworks towards the end.
Pardon the naff music; It makes for better listening than the conversation in the car!

How not to be a Corsa C Chav
( )
As you are using a halogen fitting, you do not have washers (Some EU Models may), or an auto leveller.
Be mindful of others;
  1. As far as is possible, keep your headlight lens clean to prevent glare - I keep a small bottle of glass cleaner and a MF in the boot, which is useful for cleaning windows, headlights, and mirrors as needed.
  2. Use your adjuster! If you are heavily laden, or notice that your cutoff is into the cabin of traffic that you are following or oncoming traffic, dip.
  3. Check your headlight alignment after fitting

For those with prefacelifts (Reflector dip beam), and stock halogen 8Gs, Please consider others before fitting HIDs, and if you do, opt for H7R Bulbs and ensure that beam pattern is correct.

Highbeam Notes
As noted above, I've been using a cheaper kit to test in the High beam fitting.
Initial warmup times aren't great, though could be improved upon with quality ballasts - See the above video, and compare warmup on the cheap high beams and decent dip beams to get an idea.

The HIDs work well with the high beam reflectors, As shown here, the conductor wire runs along the bottom, which is the ideal position:

The brighter, whiter output is perfect for extending view on the high beam - You can practically peer into the future once they are fully warmed, and restrikes after dipping for a passing car are nearly instant on their return to full brightness.

Compared to LEDs that I was using before, the light is not as scattered, and pairs with the dip beam hotspot to create a very strong, long range beam - I absolutely reccomend, providing you can put up with the warmup time.

For flashing other cars, consider using a sustained flash, followed by faster flashes (e.g, 1 second then as frantic as you like) to get to a higher brightness. Even when flashing momentarily from cold, they are about halogen standard - They can be even better, as a good ballast will give a very large initial strike, leading to a momentary flick of light that is brighter than even fully warmed HIDs.

Will it pass an MOT?
NO.
HIDs in any halogen housing will not pass an honest MOT. In practice, a good beam pattern & friendly tester may see them overlooked, or, you can simply take 20 minutes to pop them out and fit halogen bulbs for the test.
There are no rules against leaving the ballasts in place...

If you have any questions about the fitting process, let me know and I may be able to assist.
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post #2 of 61 (permalink) Old 15th October 2018, 10:55
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Nice job

Would be interesting to see these side by side with 9th gen factory fit HID (mine is pre facelift - with the separate DRLs), which has the advantage of self leveler, wash mechanism and no separate Full beam - just the solenoid actuated flaps - and thus I imagine you have a slight warm up when switching main beam on? how noticeable is this?

You have clearly put a lot of effort into this and it is nice to see that crisp cutoff line very well done
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post #3 of 61 (permalink) Old 15th October 2018, 11:07 Thread Starter
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As said, the initial warm up time on the main beams is quite naff (And very noticeable), given the cheap ballasts I'm testing them out with - Initially, (turning on high beams from stone cold) there is a noticeable wait whilst it comes up to usable light, and then into excellent / full brightness.

With a set of 55W Ballasts, the warm up time would be far more usable, and not a consideration at all - Quality ballasts do give a brighter flash of light at ignition, offsetting the warm up for flashing purposes, and as can be seen on the dip beams in the video above, warm up through the colour temperatures to 80% brightness within 2 seconds or so.
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post #4 of 61 (permalink) Old 15th October 2018, 14:25
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Cool - sounds like the better ballasts will make a big difference, it was flashing that I was mostly wondering about I assume there is no problem with re-striking the lamps quickly (apart from presumably lower bulb life) - I know you can't do this with a Metal Halide bulb (Aquatics use) but presumably Xenons are OK with this.

I'll have to pay more attention to mine next time I start from cold in the dark - I imagine the factory fit HIDs have a warm up phase (and colour temp change) but without the issues switching to full beam obviously (retro fitting the dipped beam/full beam solenoid operated baffles would be a great project - but I imagine cheaper (not to mention easier!) to find a EX in a scrappy & have the headlamps & associated electronics from that).
I have to admit - first time I drove mine in the dark on an unlit road I was blown away by the quantity & quality of light! The HID/LED comparison is interesting - I always assumed LEDs were better but I guess the advantage is lower power consumption and less heat to deal with?
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post #5 of 61 (permalink) Old 7th November 2018, 22:49 Thread Starter
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A further update to this,
Having used the HIDs in Dip for a very long time now, I've been a bit irked by the dimming when using stop start - I've added a relay harness, which connects directly to the battery - This helps ensure a good connection, and removes any strain from the existing car wiring - It's only toggling a single relay!

Further to that, I've added an inline capacitor - Intended for CANBUS correction, which isn't required by Civics, it should in theory provide a modicum of holdup power to keep the lights fully struck for the duration of the high current draw for the stop start motor.

That said, these "Capacitors" may well be resistors, as is often the case with CANBUS correction gear - I've not tested them, and they are heavily potted so no chance to look at the actual electronics - I've not yet had a chance to run in practice, but turning the car on on the drive yielded a fraction of a second drop, whereas usually I'd expect a noticeable drop pre-relay and capacitors.

Once I've gone for a stop-start drive tommorow, I'll report back
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post #6 of 61 (permalink) Old 22nd November 2018, 02:02
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This looks really interesting and a great write up. When you connect the ballasts to the headlight power, does this just connect to the connectors that would have been attached to the original bulbs?

Dip beam is the issue for me and I find it really dull. My 14 year old Mégane has better lights. So, to just upgrade the dip would help a lot I think.

Thanks for sharing.
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post #7 of 61 (permalink) Old 29th November 2018, 23:34 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thunt View Post
This looks really interesting and a great write up. When you connect the ballasts to the headlight power, does this just connect to the connectors that would have been attached to the original bulbs?
Sorry, I've only just seen your post!

I've recently started using a relay harness in addition to the ballasts.
You can feed the ballasts directly, but using a relay harness cuts down on flicker when using stop start, and insulates the OEM headlight wiring from any current surges caused by ballast ignition.

This video has a good summary of the fitting with relay harnesses; They are only ~£6-8 depending on where you buy.

With these, you only use a single output - On the 9G, Right headlight as you face the engine bay makes it easiest. (Short cables to the battery side)

If you have any questions, let me know - Feel free to @Haltamer me so I get a notification
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post #8 of 61 (permalink) Old 1st December 2018, 19:49
 
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Can someone spot the L/R adjustment screw on Halogen Lights....

Not the white for U/D.
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post #9 of 61 (permalink) Old 9th December 2018, 21:23
 
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I replaced the standard hallogen headlights with genuine honda Bi-xenon headlights. First photo is low beam, second photo is high beam

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post #10 of 61 (permalink) Old 9th December 2018, 22:33 Thread Starter
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Glad to see you got them working!
Did you need to get any of the ancilliary equipment (Levelling), or were they a straight swap in?
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post #11 of 61 (permalink) Old 9th December 2018, 22:43
 
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Quote:
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Glad to see you got them working!
Did you need to get any of the ancilliary equipment (Levelling), or were they a straight swap in?

finally i did it, they were a straight swap in
i adjust them from inside like the hallogen,

i didn't install auto level or washer jets

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post #12 of 61 (permalink) Old 10th December 2018, 18:21
 
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Good work. How much is it?

My Honda have headlight washer but only Halogens
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post #13 of 61 (permalink) Old 10th December 2018, 18:25
 
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Good work. How much is it?

My Honda have headlight washer but only Halogens
I paid just the electrician for installation.
The headlights was free

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Lucky you

Anybody knows how much is each headlight?
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post #15 of 61 (permalink) Old 10th December 2018, 18:34 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allskin View Post
Good work. How much is it?

My Honda have headlight washer but only Halogens
Just to check, are you looking for pre facelift HIDs, or post facelift LEDs?

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post #16 of 61 (permalink) Old 10th December 2018, 18:41
 
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In Portugal we can't use aftermarket LED, so the only legal option would be original HID.

My headlights are those:

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post #17 of 61 (permalink) Old 10th December 2018, 18:43
 
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You have 9G facelift, my 9G is pre facelift, headlights are different

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post #18 of 61 (permalink) Old 10th December 2018, 18:46 Thread Starter
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Yup, those are post facelift. Things get expensive!
The LED Headlights for the post facelift can only be found on the highest spec, and type rs - in the UK, it's around £250-£350 per side!

What are the specifics of Portuguese law? As you already have projectors, you may well get away with HIDs.

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post #19 of 61 (permalink) Old 10th December 2018, 18:52
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As you already have projectors, you may well get away with HIDs.
He might 'get away with it' but that doesn't make it legal, as it doesn't in the UK.
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post #20 of 61 (permalink) Old 10th December 2018, 18:52
 
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Well, in theory when we have a car with HIDs we need to have headlight washer (check!) and auto lever (nop).

Yes, the aim would be to switch to HIDs but i want to keep the original Honda (HID version?) headlights.
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