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Thinking of buying a FN2 Type R

14K views 54 replies 26 participants last post by  coste1l 
#1 ·
I am currently deciding between an Audi A4 B8 and a CTR FN2 but after test driving both I am more swayed towards the FN2. (they are completely different cars I know!)


Ideally I would like a CW CTR with sat nav and the GP kit (and a nice set of Rage Alloys!) I have read that ALL CW come with a LSD? Is this right? I also read that they all came with LSD mid 2010 so not sure which is true?

I am aware of the door rust under the rubber trim to look out for, but is there anything else I should look out for specifically?


Also regarding running costs, what sort of MPG people are you type r owners getting in the FN2? Autotrader says 22mpg only but I find that a bit hard to believe and it is putting me off getting one if I am honest.
 
#2 ·
Hi and welcome.

Yes all the CW have LSD, and Mid 2010 cars have LSD from factory.

Regarding MPG, it really depends on your driving style. Im getting 28mpg...that is a mixture of driving on all sorts of roads. Some people get as low as 23, but one of my mates managed 34mpg.
 
#4 ·
I am currently deciding between an Audi A4 B8 and a CTR FN2 but after test driving both I am more swayed towards the FN2. (they are completely different cars I know!)


Ideally I would like a CW CTR with sat nav and the GP kit (and a nice set of Rage Alloys!) I have read that ALL CW come with a LSD? Is this right? I also read that they all came with LSD mid 2010 so not sure which is true?

I am aware of the door rust under the rubber trim to look out for, but is there anything else I should look out for specifically?


Also regarding running costs, what sort of MPG people are you type r owners getting in the FN2? Autotrader says 22mpg only but I find that a bit hard to believe and it is putting me off getting one if I am honest.
In 2009 only CW's came with a factory LSD and from 2010 onwards all colours had the LSD as standard.

Door rust under the rubber trim happens on some not all. If you catch it early enough and treat it's no problem. Look out for the paint work at top of windscreen where rubber meets. Can be bubbling due to poor window fitment, perhaps on replacement.

Obviously check for usual car issues that you might get on any car. If CTR has done over 30k then it should have had valve clearances checked on 25k service.

MPG-wise it depends how you drive but I get 26mpg regularly and I'm boosted, so real world mixed driving see's 30mpg on average. Some people experience better.

Hopefully that's of some help
 
#5 ·
paint, clutches bump stops and check the honda site for recalls.... MPG am averaging about 28ish had 33 on motorway with cruise set. I dont regret mine for a minute.... you'll love it
 
#7 ·
Good luck on finding one with satnav although you can follow the threads on here and fit a better after market one yourself.

There is no rust on my doors or under the windscreen seal, I assume these issues were resolved on these later models. The CW ones do go for a premium, personally I would go for a 10 or 60 plate which has LSD in another colour - white is a pig to keep clean.

I drove 360 miles along motorways the other day and averaged 36.8mpg. Currently it's sitting at 27mpg but it's only 10 miles to work so you dont get good fuel economy on any car that barely gets up to temperature before arriving at your destination.

Fab car, very reliable and bags of fun but still very practical. The only things I didn't like were the ECU map (but sorted that with Flashpro) and the headunit (now changed).
 
#8 ·
I am currently deciding between an Audi A4 B8 and a CTR FN2 but after test driving both I am more swayed towards the FN2. (they are completely different cars I know!)


Ideally I would like a CW CTR with sat nav and the GP kit (and a nice set of Rage Alloys!) I have read that ALL CW come with a LSD? Is this right? I also read that they all came with LSD mid 2010 so not sure which is true?

I am aware of the door rust under the rubber trim to look out for, but is there anything else I should look out for specifically?


Also regarding running costs, what sort of MPG people are you type r owners getting in the FN2? Autotrader says 22mpg only but I find that a bit hard to believe and it is putting me off getting one if I am honest.
hi there matey, really depends on what your using the car for? in terms of fuel the type r hasnt really been designed for fuel economy LOL so yeah on average youll get about 29-30 MPG again depending how you drive,

as for the LSD's CW's came standard with them and because the handling was such an improvement Honda then implemented the LSD as standard into all Type r's registered from march 2010

audi's to be fair are pretty over priced and are more business focussed cars IMO :worms:

where as the honda type r is a great fun car to own, youve got the Vtech, the looks the seats and just so much potential to modify them and not forgetting about the fact that a honda is the number 1 most reliable car you can buy where as audi are in the 20's so not good for them.

see here What Car? Reliability Survey 2012 - Introduction - What Car?

on top of this youll have civinfo behind you all the way through your car journey and after , hope this helps [smilie=coolup.gif]
 
#10 ·
The LSD does make quite a good difference, even when not going for it you feel a strange "tracking" of the line you are driving. I got 21-22mpg average although could easily get 30+ or even 40 if I took it carefully.
 
#12 ·
firstly WOW! thank you! did not expect such a wealth of responses so quickly!

so is it safe to say ANY 10 plate CTR will have a LSD then? not really interested in any other colour but might settle for a black one at the right price.

will the valve clearances check be marked in the service history book? (sorry this will be my first performance car so quite a newbie to all this!)


'clutches bump stops and check the honda site for recalls' - what do you mean by clutches bump stops? :p whether the honda recalls have been done will be down to the owner to provide this information I am guessing?



I have to agree with Rob Rae, the harsh was NO where near as harsh as people made it out to be. The main annoyances with the car was the seat not returning back to position after letting someone in the back and the rear view visability (hence me wanting to get one with sat nav so I can retrofit a reverse camera)


what is wrong with the ECU map and what does the Flashpro do?


and yeh I understand its not designed for fuel economy but getting sub 25mpg would kill me! I currently have a car that does 30mpg which I am happy with so something close to that will do me fine.



PS: sorry for the long reply, just thought I would answer everything in one post.
 
#16 ·
clutches: Clutches can be fragile so check it

Paint is known to be really soft so check the bonnett and front end for chips

Bump stops: They are prone to go..... if you hear a weird noise from front end when hitting bumps or potholes then they need done.

If you know the index of the car your after then type it into the honda uk website page for recalls and it will tell you if there are any outstanding on that vehicle.
 
#14 ·
All cars manufactured after April 2010 have LSD. Valve clearance check is around 25k on the service schedule, the engines are bullet proof if you dont thrash them cold.

I didn't like having to rev the nuts off the thing to overtake, Flashpro reduces the VTEC point to 3800rpm, increases the rev limit to 8600rpm, gets rid a few annoying features like revs hanging when you change gear - just feels faster.

I have a Pioneer double din fitted with a reverse camera so dont think you need to find one with the Honda satnav.
 
#15 ·
All cars manufactured after April 2010 have LSD. Valve clearance check is around 25k on the service schedule, the engines are bullet proof if you dont thrash them cold.

I didn't like having to rev the nuts off the thing to overtake, Flashpro reduces the VTEC point to 3800rpm, increases the rev limit to 8600rpm, gets rid a few annoying features like revs hanging when you change gear - just feels faster.

I have a Pioneer double din fitted with a reverse camera so dont think you need to find one with the Honda satnav.

models made from 1 March 2010 have LSD fitted as standard was when it began dude ,

as for the poor rear view....this will cheer you right up what my dealer told me about an upside of this, whenever a car with the full beam or un aligned headlight comes up from behind it does not blind you because of the spoiler ! lol its actually true does redue it :D
 
#18 ·
Keep in mind, a car may of been manufactured before the date from which an LSD became standard, but only registered after that date, so will have a 10 plate.

I'm not sure if there is anything on the log book or printed somewhere on the car to let you know.

Failing that, just take it on a 'proper' drive with roundabouts and corners - it should become clear soon enough if it has an LSD or not :thumbsup: :)
 
#22 ·
Best mpg I got from my type r was a drive down to silverstone all motorway 42mpg but my day to day use I never got above the 33 mark but I didn't really buy my type r for the mpg lol. As others say the CW came with an LSD why not try find yourself a M200 those are coming down in price as well and more are popping up for sale.

Paint work is a mist check point as the bonnet and wings are prone to stone chips as is the bumper brake pads aren't the best most have changed them to aftermarket jobbies,some rattles from the dash and the rear suspension can creak only on start up though once car heats up the rear suspension noise goes away
 
#26 ·
is there anyway to check if the valve clearances have been done? or just ask for a receipt to prove it? also what happens if it didn't get done? is it a massive issue?

how much did your flashpro cost? it might be something to look into for me...


I tend to check clutches anyways so will make sure to give it a bit more attention :) ive never heard of bump stops though, does it cost a lot to have fixed? just check the honda website recalls and it seems temporarily down :( do I just need the reg for the car?


MY10? what does that tell?


I always thought it stood for championship white not creamy white :p if the bumper paint is different to the metal panels that's a sign of a respray right?



Yeh I have been looking at the M200's and I would definitely love one, I think they are amazing looking machines. I would be so upset if I kurbed one of those lighting alloys though... which is why I would rather just not have them at all in a way!

are the rattles and creaky suspension nothing to worry about?
 
#27 ·
valve clearance is a tick box in the service book, make sure its ticked!!!

flashpro about £550 and £200 ish for tune BUT you can sell it after if you are happy with the tune and get about £400 back

creaky rear suspension is common i think...just needs greasing i think when serviced
 
#28 ·
You will have to make your mind up about the map. Main reason why I got flashpro was the car didn't have enough mid range grunt, changing down 2 or 3 gears each time to get enough grunt to overtake is just embarrassing when you're not in a rush. The VTEC point is lowered to 3800rpm which is much better, you can also adjust the activation pressure so it wont change to the high cam at say half throttle (in this scenario the VTEC point remains at 5400rpm under light throttle settings). There are other things it does including increasing the rev limit to 8600 and stopping the revs hanging when you change gear. Anyway, try it for a few weeks and see if you can live with it, if not consider Flashpro. I paid £435 for mine brand new (including postage), got it from one of the European dealers. I didn't bother with a dyno tune.

My car creaks for the first few feet in the morning, it's the exhaust settling on mine. My previous Civic did have suspension creak and I had loads of trouble with the suspension on that (was an early 2006 model I got from new).
 
#30 ·
On trip A I've averaged 34mpg over 150miles
On trip B I've averaged 32mpg over 8000miles.

On trip A I've still be using V-tec but mainly driving sensibly.
On the motorway for a couple of hundred miles I averaged 38mpg.
And saw nearly 370miles out the tank.
Sometimes I've seen 230miles to a tank.
It's 2 cars. Can be used for pootling along.
And then you can ring its neck to 8000revs in the first 4gears
:)
Graham
 
#34 · (Edited)
From my own experience:

Things to check

-Paintwork condition - Check for stone chips on the front end, bumper and bonnet etc. To be honest you will be hard pressed to find one without chips but maybe you can use this a negotiation tool.

-Rust - Look under the top of the door deals for rust. Also look closely at the rubber strip running across the top of the windscreen as it should not be brown or rusty.

-Suspension - This should be pretty much silent when driving around. Muted rattling in the footwell could indicate worn drop links. Squeeking noises when going over bumps could be other suspension issues such as bump stops or top strut mounts etc.

-Steering - Turn the stereo and heater off and when you drive around at low speeds you may get a dry sqeaking or sqealing noise when turning the steering wheel usually past 180 degrees. If you do get this then the steering rack may need replacement though the noise may eventually return.

-Check oil level - The K20 is bulletproof but it needs oil and some units can drink a fair amount. When you check this if it's nicely topped up it is usually a good sign.

-Engine and transmission operation - On a stock K20 this should be smooth right up to the red line. The gear change may be slightly notchy when the box is cold but should slot into each gear at all rpm's smoothly when warm. In paticular when the box is warm check that when you roll to a stop you can engage 1st immediately. Also check that you can shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd at high rpm's smoothly obviously speed restrictions permitting. If it doesn't then there could be issues with the box.

-Seats - Check the side bolsters as these can easily be snagged on ones jeans etc leaving small tears.

-Service History - Servicing using genuine parts is good for these cars especially with things like air and oil filters. Check the history for evidence of this. If it has Full Dealer History check that it actually has invoices to go with this and not just the stamps which you can buy for a few quid from ebay.

Aside from this check the wiki for other common faults of which there are few and those which do exist cost little to remedy.
 
#36 ·
so i need to buy a flashpro and a tune? (sorry for being such a newbie) do I apply the tune with the flashpro? I would of thought increasing the rev limit to 8600 would damage the engine? surely its set at 8000 by honda for a reason right?


thank you Forbidden8701 for all the heads up! is K20 just the name for the engine in a FN2 CTR?
 
#37 ·
8600 rpm is fine on the stock engine. We have a k20z4 in the FN2 and the VTEC engines need to be kept topped up with oil to ensure they can be pounded on.
 
#38 ·
thanks for the heads up, will make sure to keep a good eye on the oil level then :)

are there any complications or cons with using the flashpro? it just seems too good to be true, more power and better mpg?


also am I right assuming I buy a tune and apply it with a flashpro device?
 
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