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Bones's FN2

34K views 338 replies 26 participants last post by  TheLegMan 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thought I’d start a Mod thread for my car as it seems to be escalating.
All comments, suggestions and advice appreciated.

I bought the car off Honda (Cannock) back in October 2017, was completely standard and had been through the Honda Approved Standard program so had had a lot of work on it, it had 62,000 on the clock with Full Service History and came with a Honda 12 Month warranty.
Honda had fitted a new clutch, 4 x new tyres 1 x shock that was leaking and replaced new door cards, plus more and a full service. Car has been fully valeted and has Diamonbright Nano coat applied (which I actually rate).
We paid a bit over the odds for it, but as the work had been done and it was in almost immaculate condition and come with 12 months’ warranty and full service history I decided to go with it.
The plan was to keep it standard for 12 months and possibly leave it standard, but after joining Civinfo, the temptation became too much >

List of mods so far; (updated 07/02/2020)
Excarlink
LED - Full Interior bulb kit
LED RED footwell lights
LED Side Light Bulbs - 15W (3x5W) W5W 501 T10
LED UPGRADE 14W 2835SMD T15 W16W LED WHITE REVERSE LIGHT BULBS
LED AMBER INDICATOR LIGHT BULBS50W T12 7440 HIGH POWER CREE XPE
LED Stop/Tail Light Bulbs - 50w T20 7443 CREE XBD LED RED
LED RED Rear LIGHT BULBS - 50W W5W W16W 501 T10 T15 HIGH POWER CREE XBD
LED Headlight Bulbs - NIGHTEYE Automotive - H7 72w 9000LM/Set 6500K Cool White (36w/450LM EACH)
LED DRL switchback indicators
Maxton Design - Full Splitter Kit
Freaky Parts - 17mm wheel spacers front and back.
Eibach -15mm pro Springs
Mugen Quickshifter
K-Tuned - Billet Shifter Bushes
Gruppe M - CAI
Thermal Throttle Body Gasket
Skunk2 Thermal intake gasket
TTS Rotrex Supersport Supercharger – Intercooled – IAT Relocated
Walbro 255 fuel pump.
LSD – OE from Champ White Model
M-Tech C-Hook Discs all round with PBS pads & Motul RFB660 fluid
Engine Mount Inserts
Stiffring Subframe collars
FlashPro Tune by EFI = 330.2 BHP & 213 LBT
Toda - Catback

Next on the list
Deatschwerks EV14 - 750cc injectors to replace old tech RC750’s - Purchased
TTS plenum plate to allow change of injectors - Purchased
Possibly 105mm pulley for extra boost
Map check at EFI


Cheers
Dave


M8TJT: Reworked as requested by Bones.
 

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#3 ·
Cheers @Farqui , I was lucky when I found it, as it is a very good clean car. Drives very nicely now Paul at Tdi has had a tweak :grin2:
 
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#4 ·
Definitely looks a clean one! That's still proper Milano!


How do you rate the mugen shifter? I've just removed my cheapy MJC bolt on one, as it was making it feel notchy. Also what do TDi charge for the Flashpro tune?
 
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#5 ·
Thanks @Danith

The Mugen quick shifter is really just a shorter gear stick so reduced travel which makes it quicker, but it is very smooth and very positive. Feels a firmer change and less slop in the lever. Still out on whether it is worth the money but nice to have. The Tegiwa version has a shorter lever and longer ball joint part which replicates the eBay jobby but machined and not a bolt on bit. Musgrove has had both and recommended the Mugen.

Tdi-North charged £350 for the initial Tune and with the car being stock apart from Gruppe M intake it has made a real difference to how it drives. Better low down drivability, V-Tech at 3.5 but not always in unless you want it based on throttle position, also throttle response is better. I would say it has made a big positive difference to the car and the MPG seems to be better now I've calmed down lol I would recommend it on any stage of car. I also had flatfoot shifting and launch control enabled which are good little things to play with.
Any tuning required after this for added mods will only be charged for the time take to make the adjustment and not the £350 again.
 
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#6 ·
Oh cool so only 350 all in? Thought thr flashpro unit was 550 or so then another X amount for mapping
 
#7 ·
Oh cool so only 350 all in? Thought thr flashpro unit was 550 or so then another X amount for mapping
Argh, £350 for Tdi to tune it but you have to provide the handata Flashpro Box which I got off ebay for £350 so looking at it that way £650 for the first tune, which, yeah!
 
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#9 ·
Thanks @flashy. Don't worry, the sausage may live yet :grin2:
 
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#10 ·
Had short shifter, mugen, tegiwa then mugen again. The throw isn't as short in the mugen but when you go to another version you REALLY notice how slick the mugen is.

Looks like a cracker mate! After fitting a cat on the Teg I'd say it's spot on noise-wise, even better if you did the same with a milltek res and a 400 cell cat :thumbsup:
 
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#11 ·
Thanks @musegroove, glad to see you’re happy with the cat fitted. Paul suggested get a Milltek and then probably later on go 4-2-1 with 400 cat. Just wondering if I have a resonated Mill will there be room to weld in a cat near to the manifold or will the b-pipe resonator be in the way of where you want the cat?
 
#14 ·
Lol at the sausage build, hopefully that will not be the most technical Mod in this thread :grin2:

So I can have a 4-2-1 with welded in cat on a resonated system, nice one. [smilie=ebil-thumbu:

Cheers
 
#20 ·
Full stainless with dual exit you're likely looking about £500-650 depending on quality, a backstreet place may do £400ish but depends on material quality etc.
Cat is £90-110 depending on cells.

For custom job I'll be looking at solid fabs as Alan's quality is amazing.
 
#21 ·
So if buying new still in a simular price range. C
When the time comes I’ll get in touch with SF and weigh up my options.

Cheers
 
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#23 ·
Cheers and welcome to the site.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Nothing major going on, at the moment.

But me believing in every little helps, today I thought I’d try and improve the air flow into the Gruppe M bonnet scoop, I noticed there is not a lot room between the grill, slam panel and under the bonnet for air flow. I also noticed that the plastic slam panel sits up quite a bit over the top of the cross member, approx 6-8mm and up to 10 mm in places and that the lower lip of the scoop actually sits below this quite a bit thus blocking the flow into the scoop and not taking full advantage of the scoop full opening.
So I bought a cheap secondhand slam panel and cut out the top part to the width of the scoop, I’m hoping this will allow more air as the air now flows up the slam panel and straight over the cross member rather than being forced higher through a thinner gap.
I will probably wrap the exposed cross member black or carbon so it’s not so contrast.
I have no pretence that it’s going to make any BHP difference in the bum dyno, if at all, but just worth a try to utilise what is already there better.

On a more major note, Monday I will have possession of a Champ White LSD to fit.
 

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#44 · (Edited)
Nothing major going on, at the moment.

But me believing in every little helps, today I thought I’d try and improve the air flow into the Gruppe M bonnet scoop, I noticed there is not a lot room between the grill, slam panel and under the bonnet for air flow. I also noticed that the plastic slam panel sits up quite a bit over the top of the cross member, approx 6-8mm and up to 10 mm in places and that the lower lip of the scoop actually sits below this quite a bit thus blocking the flow into the scoop and not taking full advantage of the scoop full opening.
So I bought a cheap secondhand slam panel and cut out the top part to the width of the scoop, I’m hoping this will allow more air as the air now flows up the slam panel and straight over the cross member rather than being forced higher through a thinner gap.
I will probably wrap the exposed cross member black or carbon so it’s not so contrast.
I have no pretence that it’s going to make any BHP difference in the bum dyno, if at all, but just worth a try to utilise what is already there better.
I did this ^^^^ a few weeks back and said I would wrap the bare cross member to hopefully make it look better.
So today I did this and added some foam to seal the edges, looks better but still not happy with it as could have been done better and the wrap isn’t the best.
Think bonnet struts are next to remove the bonnet stay getting in the way of the flow of air so will need to wrap again when I remove the stay holder as it will leave a whole.
 

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#25 ·
Advice and thoughts please.

Looking for advise and your thoughts on the way forward please, I know there’s a lot open here to opinion but all thoughts and advice welcome.
I’m toying with what to do with mine now, I change my mind every 5 minutes though.
Have the LSD to fit but then what do I do. Cat-Back, FD2 pump, FD2 TB, RRC inlet and manifold to get close to 240 BHP at a cost including fitting and remap of around £2500 - £3k for another 20 BHP on what I have now or do I stop here and save the £4K for a super charger kit and look at going 300-350 BHP at the flywheel?
Admittedly there will be a few other upgrades required such as free flow cat and brakes, but reading TTS I can pretty much start with everything else as standard and slap the Sc on. I’d go for the Supersport intercooler kit and fit myself.

Cheers
Dave
 
#26 ·
Looking for advise and your thoughts on the way forward please, I know there’s a lot open here to opinion but all thoughts and advice welcome.
I’m toying with what to do with mine now, I change my mind every 5 minutes though.
Have the LSD to fit but then what do I do. Cat-Back, FD2 pump, FD2 TB, RRC inlet and manifold to get close to 240 BHP at a cost including fitting and remap of around £2500 - £3k for another 20 BHP on what I have now or do I stop here and save the £4K for a super charger kit and look at going 300-350 BHP at the flywheel?
Admittedly there will be a few other upgrades required such as free flow cat and brakes, but reading TTS I can pretty much start with everything else as standard and slap the Sc on. I’d go for the Supersport intercooler kit and fit myself.

Cheers
Dave
When you put it like that I'd go sc! I'm the biggest fan of n/a but the lure of sc for a proper gain for similar money would be hard to turn down. Be interested to hear the full cost though, doubt it'll be 4
 
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#30 ·
Very tempting
 
#29 ·
Can't stand turbo, that's why I got another k20
 
#31 ·
Bargain but I'd personally charge a K20 over turbo IF I were to go to the darkside :lol:

Keep the engine characteristics just with more grunt.
 
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#32 ·
Think I'd charge after thinking about it as I also like the characteristics, I like the idea of a 350 bhp car though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by musegroove View Post
As someone that's wasted all his money:

4-2-1 mani
Catback (with sports cat if you're paranoid like me)
Teg / Mugen / smoothed airbox with CAF
FD2 pump (& baffle if you track it)
LSD
Decent brakes
FRS

Above is all this car needs; inlet, tb, cams, coilovers, bbk are all worthwhile extras if you're inclined but not needed mate. The above will see 230ish and the jump to 240-250 isn't huge nor worth it unless you're decatted, 3" and a fresh engine with ported head etc as the gains get very small after the above list.
So just the Manifold, Catback and FD2 pump to get then. Which will probably need to be in place to charge anyway.

Thanks for the advice @musegroove
Apologise @flashy for hijacking your thread, I've posed the same question in my mod thread now.

Cheers
Dave
 
#33 ·
Hi, @musegroove, from experience what 4-2-1 is a good affordable one to go for? I know you had some cracking issues with one you used, could do without that hassle of having to get welded every 5 minutes. Bare in mind it will be for street use only.
Then I think I may go for a custom cat-Back with a cat welded at the start of the B-Pipe and nice a quiet.

Cheers
Dave
 
#34 ·
Seen everything from the eBay spesh to Toda cracking mate.

Mine was that the exhaust was in a bind due to the guys who re-adjusted it for me when I originally bought it mixed with polybush hangers. Once it was chopped and the work done properly it was spot on. (Still wish I hadn't sold my 3" lol). It would cause the manifold to take the twisting motion rather than be absorbed by the hangers.

I'd go secondhand Teg personally or if you don't mind 5ish bhp peak less then a Japspeed. Ignore what the resellers say about them being identical, seen plenty of people run japspeed with exact same mods and have circa 5bhp less peak.
Same with Teg compared to Toda, you pay Toda price because you get a smidge more bhp due to the quality.... yet the design is the exact same if you know what I mean.

Just avoid the Teg catback, cracking within 500 miles was disgusting, got mine strengthened to avoid it happening again.
 
#36 ·
Thanks mate, been seeing quite a few Teg coming up second hand but thought there was an issue but looks like it is with the cat-back so my mistake, thanks for the advise though. Much appreciated as usual, again lol.


Shame about the teg cos it's probs one of the best sounding cat backs. I like the piper but heard the fitment is gash, it certainly is on my ep3 but sounds good. It's coming off soon tho for a cheap toyosports
Looked at piper as they also to resonated and from what I've seen as far as vids (But don't really give much) they are quiet and have a nice tone. Toying with the idea of a custom system as well

Thanks again for the advice guys,
 
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#35 ·
Shame about the teg cos it's probs one of the best sounding cat backs. I like the piper but heard the fitment is gash, it certainly is on my ep3 but sounds good. It's coming off soon tho for a cheap toyosports
 
#37 ·
Realistically you’re looking at £5.5-6k fitted and mapped supersport kit including ecutek. Obviously less if you fit yourself. That’s assuming that you already have better clutch, exhaust mani+catback and ideally brakes. TTS kit doesn’t ruin the NA feel like turbo does. There is also the new CPL kit but it is silly money. Was quoted almost £6k for cooled one+ fitting +map. [emoji15]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#38 ·
Also got a lovely 4.7 final drive for sale, for the forced induction setups :)
 
#39 ·
Tegiwa Manifold

Another bit of the bigger picture picked up today, next stop is to get booked in for a custom made 2.5” stainless B-Pipe made with Magnaflow Sports cat welded welded into it.
For those in know, 2.5 the right I.D I should be going for?

Cheers
 

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#40 ·
3" single is best but if you have neighbours and/or ears then it's worth losing the 2-3bhp and few lbft
 
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#41 ·
Cheers, do you know what the standard back box is like with regard to restrictiveness? I notice with the Milteck resonated you use the standard end pipes.
Why single exit? Is it weight savining?
 
#42 ·
No idea mate, depends what internal routing and ID of pipe is.

Single is just freer flowing but again you're likely talking a bhp or two NA. Boosted may be completely different.
 
#43 ·
Nice one, cheers. Didn’t think of that with the single exit.

So the plan I think is go and have a chat to the guy/s at long life and see what there experience of the back box is if any, for now though to get the manifold on and running. I’ll fit manifold, get Longlife to fabricate B-Pipe with Cat located at manifold connection and back up to TDi to have the map checked. Then enjoy for a while.
Then start getting the money together for Supercharging, not going SC this year but hopefully within the next 12 months is the plan.

Thanks for all the help and advice.
 
#45 · (Edited)
So, the above cut out slam panel has been abandoned and I’m back run standard slam panel as I didn’t like how it looked..

Today I carbon wrapped the underside off the bonnet to cover up all the holes, gaps etc to smooth the air flow to the air box through the GM duct.
Not a professional job but I’m happy with it, we took about 3 hours to do it with the Mrs help. There are a few little creases as can be seen in the pics but the majority of them are covered with the duct or sound proofing. We managed to get rid of nearly all the small air bubble.
 

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#46 ·
Bonnet struts fitted and original bonnet stay removed to clean up the air flow over the slam panel into the GM scoop
 

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#50 ·
:grin2: when I eventually get the cash together and make up my mind that's what I'm doing. Changing my mind like the wind atm!!
 
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