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Thread: Clutch Accord Type-S clutch in a Civic 2.2 iCDTi - it works Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
27th April 2019 20:45
hondacivicnut To add to that, I can't stand the BS that gets peddled with SMF kits, they DO NOT drive like a DMF. Whilst my CC kit is perfectly drivable now, I had to modify the clutch pedal to get it even remotely like the OEM feel. It does drive well but sometimes when I'm 'not in the mood' and drive lazily, back comes the judder.

Pre clutch pedal mod, the engagement was like a switch, no good for normal driving.
26th April 2019 21:30
hondacivicnut
Quote:
Originally Posted by honman View Post
i spoke to kestrel today and they are helpful what was interesting was the mention of an smf conversion done some time ago using a brass flywheel however they are willing to look at the possibility of skimming/machining a pressure plate the conclusion is that kestrel seem to be the most positive i,ve spoke to so far it could be worth a ride to talk direct to them if its not too far from you
I have a CC SMF kit. Never again.....
26th April 2019 17:33
honman
Quote:
Originally Posted by hondacivicnut View Post
How much for mate? Kestrel is only down the road from me.....
i spoke to kestrel today and they are helpful what was interesting was the mention of an smf conversion done some time ago using a brass flywheel however they are willing to look at the possibility of skimming/machining a pressure plate the conclusion is that kestrel seem to be the most positive i,ve spoke to so far it could be worth a ride to talk direct to them if its not too far from you
10th April 2019 19:45
hondacivicnut
Quote:
Originally Posted by tristanmortimer View Post
Have emailed them again to get some cost information for reduction in thickness of 1.8mm.


Approx 40 but they'd need to see the actual clutch for exact pricing.
Ahh ok, I might get this done if my CC and SMF fails.

I've also done 100k miles since I've bought my 2.2. Now on 176k so IF I swap it for another, this is a good fix. Saves me making up a jig to hold the PP and machining it myself.
9th April 2019 09:56
tristanmortimer
Quote:
Originally Posted by tristanmortimer View Post
I didn't ask about costs unfortunately but can do.

Have emailed them again to get some cost information for reduction in thickness of 1.8mm.


Approx 40 but they'd need to see the actual clutch for exact pricing.
8th April 2019 22:10
tristanmortimer I didn't ask about costs unfortunately but can do.
7th April 2019 20:30
hondacivicnut
Quote:
Originally Posted by tristanmortimer View Post
Have contacted Kestrel and they inform me that they can machine the pressure plate.
How much for mate? Kestrel is only down the road from me.....
25th March 2019 20:02
honman
Quote:
Originally Posted by tristanmortimer View Post
Have contacted Kestrel and they inform me that they can machine the pressure plate.
a step in the right direction? may be
25th March 2019 17:41
tristanmortimer Have contacted Kestrel and they inform me that they can machine the pressure plate.
20th March 2019 22:14
honman
Quote:
Originally Posted by cb550 View Post
Would'nt it be the case running your car previously with the performance maps you had installed would be the reason your clutch is possibly 'shot'.

Members on here report high mileages on their cars without clutch bother. Again, From members' reports it seems pretty conclusive any additional load placed on the clutch (remap) will bring the working life of the clutch to a premature end. ( not really the fault of the design should an owner choose to increase the power/torque output of the motor.

Unless of course other vehicles forums' members report no subsequent issues with their cars after remapping, every possibility the owner will be no better off than if running the civic.

Understand enthusiasts' modding and tuning their cars, and fair play to them. For me, think I'd prefer to go out and buy a car built with the performance I was looking for. ( Type R springs to mind verses the diesel Civics)
but my point is the clutch is the clutch is ok again after self adjusting but it became nearly undriveable remaps have nothing to do with the self adjusting mechanism if the clutch is not slipped too much for quick getaways the dmf is the bit that the torque will destroy
20th March 2019 19:15
cb550 Would'nt it be the case running your car previously with the performance maps you had installed would be the reason your clutch is possibly 'shot'.

Members on here report high mileages on their cars without clutch bother. Again, From members' reports it seems pretty conclusive any additional load placed on the clutch (remap) will bring the working life of the clutch to a premature end. ( not really the fault of the design should an owner choose to increase the power/torque output of the motor.

Unless of course other vehicles forums' members report no subsequent issues with their cars after remapping, every possibility the owner will be no better off than if running the civic.

Understand enthusiasts' modding and tuning their cars, and fair play to them. For me, think I'd prefer to go out and buy a car built with the performance I was looking for. ( Type R springs to mind verses the diesel Civics)
20th March 2019 17:30
honman these clutches are crap as in previous post mine was slipping so bad i thought it was shot but yesterday the self adjuster must have worked and the clutch does not slip now in any gear i ve made loads of inquiries about the accord mod without a positive outcome so i,m giving that up i,m so fed up with mine i,m looking for a simple rio 1.5crdi no frills no dmf and a potential of 150bhp(celtic) no modern looks but reliable and a new clutch is only about 25% of the civic (if required)
20th March 2019 00:24
tristanmortimer Maybe try Kestrel Transmissions in Scunthorpe, they did some stuff for the Ictdi many moons ago, not entirely successfully-then again nobody can make a clutch for this engine it seams. They may well be able to skim the pressure plate though, and don't think those that used them came away as sour as many who gave money to CG.
19th March 2019 09:34
Cravo Sorry I had totally misunderstood what was going off here haha.

I should know better than to pop my neb in on technical matters really lol.
13th March 2019 17:17
honman what material is the plate ferrous or none ferrous? if ferrous the plate alone could be held by a magnetic chuck or machined on a magnetic bed but still needs to be dismantled and until a used one is inspected....paid a visit to yorkshire engines in hull today but again needed to see the plate before commitment although he was fairly positive about the job
13th March 2019 16:00
hondacivicnut
Quote:
Originally Posted by cb550 View Post
Another possibility would be to mount the assy by way of holding/gripping the inner circumference of the plate with the outermost/top of the internal jaws of the 3 jaw chuck. The assy would of course be facing with the pressure place closest to the chuck.

After clocking the face up and adjusting for zero runout (perhaps up to 1 1/2 thou'), using a l/h cutting tool it should be possible to skim the face.

Would depend very much on the chuck, tooling and the experience of the machinist. He might decide the plate is'nt held securely enough, but then again, say 5 thou' for each pass would only need 8 to remove the first mm.
For those of us who use metric, 0.0015" is 0.038mm, 0.005" is 0.127mm. Yeah I'd do it in about 0.1mm cuts too to put less pressure on the face of the PP. I'd certainly clamp it up though and wouldn't even attempt machining it until it was clocked up properly.
12th March 2019 19:00
honman looking at the pics of the pressure plate it looks as if there are only 3 fixings how hard would it be to disassemble the plate from the sprung part if anyone has an old assembly maybe they could cast a light on this as the plate alone will skim
12th March 2019 18:45
cb550
Quote:
Originally Posted by hondacivicnut View Post
Buri and his clan did it before so you're not the first. I wonder how they managed to skim it them

Not seeing the PP in person but making up something up to lock the PP face, then checking for any sort of runout with a DTI before and after machining is the way to go. My guess is they were sloppy with the setting up.
Another possibility would be to mount the assy by way of holding/gripping the inner circumference of the plate with the outermost/top of the internal jaws of the 3 jaw chuck. The assy would of course be facing with the pressure place closest to the chuck.

After clocking the face up and adjusting for zero runout (perhaps up to 1 1/2 thou'), using a l/h cutting tool it should be possible to skim the face.

Would depend very much on the chuck, tooling and the experience of the machinist. He might decide the plate is'nt held securely enough, but then again, say 5 thou' for each pass would only need 8 to remove the first mm.
12th March 2019 14:16
jimmbo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Civication View Post
Yes they did it but it was not true. They had great difficulty mounting it in their lathe.

When fitted it had worse vibration than with knackered DMF and also bad clutch judder, though the action and bite point were good with no slipping. But the juddering got worse and the vibration was driving me nuts. It also trashed the DMF in 8 months.
I spent ages going to different machine shops, drop it off, "Yes we can do it" only to get a phone call later that they couldn't.
It's like couldn't they tell me that in the first place instead of driving all over the place just to pick up another failed attempt? It was the last place that told me "no way can you machine this true as it is sprung loaded" and said they never touched the pressure plate for that reason. So even though it would fit their lathe, they would not do it.
So there I was with a brand new Type S plate and no-one to machine it, or worse, it just could not be done here, despite the Polish having success.
Then I thought I would try a proper clutch manufacturer and that's when CG said "No problem, we strip the clutch down and rebuild it." It only cost the same as just machining it anyway. And at last I was like "Yes! This sounds like the proper way to do it".

What could go wrong?


Well, you know when your at a point when you have make a decision that will take your life in one of two directions? One is sensible and involves an OEM clutch and torque limited remap, the other, well no-one's done it here yet.
Would you like to hear the rest of the saga?

yes keep going .
12th March 2019 13:06
hondacivicnut Buri and his clan did it before so you're not the first. I wonder how they managed to skim it them

Not seeing the PP in person but making up something up to lock the PP face, then checking for any sort of runout with a DTI before and after machining is the way to go. My guess is they were sloppy with the setting up.
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