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  Topic Review (Newest First)
30th August 2019 15:02
M8TJT Ah. At last, a good and believable reason for connecting neg to chassis.
But it actually seems a tad worse than Haltamer implied.
If the negative charger clamp is connected incorrectly on to the battery negative terminal the battery sensor will not detect the charging current flow.This will result in the Auto Idle Stop system being disabled by the ECM/PCM software logic
But it pretty much means the same thing.
30th August 2019 12:43
Haltamer 2000th post!

I've been recreationally reading the service bulletins, and found some very useful information in Number 46 (Attatched)

When charging the battery, the negative cable of the charger should be connected directly to the chassis ground, or battery sensors won't detect the charge and won't re-enable stop start after charging.
26th August 2019 20:25
Originally Posted by Haltamer View Post
I think that's down to the fact I've not completed the "Reset internal resistance measurement" step; (Unfortunately that's a part of the manual I don't have!) and that seems to have done the trick.
That setup has been posted somewhere as I am certain that I have seen it within the last month.
What a complex setup it is too.
26th August 2019 20:22
Haltamer Waiting to see at the moment; I'm quite sure it was the battery at fault and the 0.3a draw was most likely down to an active system somewhere.

With the previous battery, I sat in the car after a full charge and with a few minutes of the headlights being on, everything died:- I'm quite sure that shouldn't happen from a full charge, parasitic drain or no!

I have had the Auto Stop / Start battery light pop up a couple of times, but none of the trouble cranking or similar - It seems to have gone away once again at the moment, but I think that's down to the fact I've not completed the "Reset internal resistance measurement" step; (Unfortunately that's a part of the manual I don't have!) and that seems to have done the trick.
26th August 2019 19:59
poor1 My replacement battery (a Varta from Honda) for the MK 9 2.2 only lasted just under three years but I had no problems with the stop/start or anything else. I think its worth taking battery voltage readings when a battery is new so that your able to make accurate comparisons later. Because batteries are so cheap compared with anything else I have no compunction in changing a battery as soon as it becomes suspect, particularly in winter time, as they are they are the lynch pin of the whole operation.
26th August 2019 13:17
Djohn Back in April I too had a battery drain that completely flattened the battery it wouldnt start the car.Recharged battery but it went flat again within a week.

Took it to local Main Dealer who found the Instrument Cluster had a drain on it, replaced Speedo & all has been fine since.

Unusual !
25th August 2019 22:24
equaliser We had to replace the battery in our CR-V in June when it was 6 months out of warranty. The dealer said these Varta stop/start batteries are not lasting long and put it down to all the electronic gizmos on the modern car.
I've also been getting periodic messages from the myHonda app stating a battery problem but it starts fine and I do pop it on the C-TEK charger every couple of months. I think I'll get it checked at the dealer before the warranty runs out in September.
25th August 2019 21:51
bill ericay As a matter of interest, are you still getting 0.3A drain with the new battery, and have you measured the voltage of the new battery to compare ? 0.3A would discharge a battery in a week-- ( 7.2 amps a day ! )
My start stop has always played up, mainly as I don't use the car much, sometimes only once a week, so I get the battery failure symbol quite often until I've been on a long run, then it settles down and works.
I use a CTEK charger to keep it topped up in the winter, but even then I get the start/stop fail with a battery symbol till the car decides it's happy. I tend to disable the start stop now if I remember after reading on another forum about battery/ starter motor problems .
25th August 2019 16:06
Haltamer I think the drain was just a red herring; As before, that was after a couple of minutes of waiting, not giving it a full 20+mins for everything to shut down.

I've popped in a 096 Size battery from halfords (Size used on the 2.2 Diesel) with an extra 10Ah and 300CCA (And It's AGM rather than EFB), and after a quick start to reset everything, I've now got no stop start fault. I'll probably pop the other battery back in before the service so I can grab a spare on warranty

It doesn't fit with the original plastic trays, but the hold down is on nice and tight and It's not going anywhere.

One step closer to being a Halfords / Yuasa Touring car, I suppose!
25th August 2019 15:44
cheekee My previous civic had a 0.9amp drain and it took a few days for the battery to go flat. If you are getting 0.3 amp draw after the MICU has turned off i don't think you have a parasitic drain. Bad battery maybe
24th August 2019 23:21
Haltamer I get a mojo that the battery may have died; As I was having to take the measurements standing there holding the meter due to lack of clips, the 0.3 measurement is what I was getting after the current had settled down after a couple of minutes; Didn't give it the full time.

I think the battery has had it, as I had it up to 50% (Apparently!) charge with a Noco charger I bought the other day, and in about 2 minutes of sitting in the car with it under load, it completely died - Classic Civic christmas tree dash:- And that's after it had 100% charged this morning; I've done a couple of starts today to wash the car - but nothing that should drain a 100% battery, even with a 0.3a parasitic drain - I wouldn't have thought that would kill it between disconnecting the charger at 16:00 and this evening, even with starts thrown in!
24th August 2019 22:58
M8TJT I know that when they were on about parasitic drain on my 10G for the Idle Stop not working, the drain was much less than 0.3A. I can't remember what he said the spec was, but it was more like 0.03A (30mA) or less than that. So your 0.3A does seem a bit on the high side.
Are you measuring after about 10mins when everything has switched off?
24th August 2019 21:16
Haltamer I've taken some voltage drop measurements from under dash fuse 34, For taillights et al, and under bonnet fuse 14, for hazards - I can't find any reference to indicator fuses on the circuit diagrams or fuse index, so I don't think it's down to the indicators:- The low battery issue seemed to start on the 20th:- I'd been using the car normally before that with the indicators in for a few days; I'm wondering if the battery may have died. (Not that it would explain the 0.3a drain)
24th August 2019 20:05
Auto stop start and parasitic drain

Would anyone happen to have a parasitic drain measurement for their car?

I'm getting about 0.27A with the multimeter in line for a while, which seems a little high. To be sure, I've disconnected my accesory plug which is all of the additional lighting and dashcam hardwire.

I did wonder if it was down to the rear indicator resistors, but a current measurement in the bulb socket has 0 current (Though, thinking about this in retrospect, I might not get a measure there)
They're not warm or otheriwise indicating a draw, but they're probably the biggest culprit.

After having the car on a battery charger, and doing a battery pull I'm also getting the auto stop start battery fault, which seems a little odd as the battery seems quite healthy (Holds 12.5V after the charge and a couple of starts)

A little puzzling!

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