Front turn signals - Civinfo
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 18th June 2014, 01:36 Thread Starter
 
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Front turn signals

Hi does anyone know how to get to the front turn signals? I have read the manual but I cannot pull the inner fender out.



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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 18th June 2014, 11:40
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Read my how to on Triton Switchback install.

It should be very similar.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 18th June 2014, 12:50 Thread Starter
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Read my how to on Triton Switchback install.

It should be very similar.
I tried, but my cover won't budge out.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 18th June 2014, 13:44
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Have you removed the clip/screw at the top of the wheel arch?

If you're still struggling, then you may have to remove the clips/screws underneath/forward of the arch.

Good luck.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 18th June 2014, 14:55 Thread Starter
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Have you removed the clip/screw at the top of the wheel arch?

If you're still struggling, then you may have to remove the clips/screws underneath/forward of the arch.

Good luck.
Hmm... I really hate how the instructions in the manual are not working, I've already removed a lot of pins. Does anyone know a easier way to get to them?
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 18th June 2014, 14:59
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Originally Posted by Tea-Aholic View Post
Hmm... I really hate how the instructions in the manual are not working, I've already removed a lot of pins. Does anyone know a easier way to get to them?
Remove the wheel, pull back the wheel well trim.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 18th June 2014, 15:02 Thread Starter
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Have you removed the clip/screw at the top of the wheel arch?

If you're still struggling, then you may have to remove the clips/screws underneath/forward of the arch.

Good luck.
I've removed all the clips as per the manual and I still can't get to it. I have even removed more clips and I still can't get there.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 26th July 2014, 17:02 Thread Starter
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Hey guys.

Okay, update. I have managed to access the left front turn signal, but I have myself in a dilemma. I will try to explain this as clearly as I can if please someone can help me that would be great.

Okay so before trying to open the front turn signals, I did the back ones first. I got some cheap $2 turn indicators and 4 load resistors like these.





So I opened back because I figured out that it would be easier to do. So when I installed it, for the first second, they would flash normally, then the hyper flash would happen again. I thought that the resistor didn't work so I put the original bulbs back in.

Later when I was cleaning my room, I found these bulbs I bought by accident, the Civic uses BAU15S and I accidentally bought the BA15S bulbs. They are BA15S CANBUS bulbs that I bought by accident ($20). They look like this:



As far as I know, the Civic doesn't require CANBUS bulbs. Anyway I tried these bulbs with the load resistors I got before and it WORKED! The bulbs flashed normally.

So now that I got it working, I concluded that the cheap bulbs I got in the first place were duds.

So now knowingly these worked, I got another pair for the front, this time proper BAU15S bulbs. They look like this:



When these arrived, I tested them out with the back indicators because I didn't want to dismantle the front of the car to find out that it doesn't work. So they work fine still so I got around to remove the front wheel arch to change the first ones out.



When I installed the indicators and the load resistors, they didn't work, hyper flash again. Since I was changing the ones on the left, I took the bulb out of the rear right so the whole left side are using the CANBUS bulbs and it still doesn't work. I also changed the resistors but again, it doesn't work.

So currently, I've concluded I can't have more than once resistor LED bulb combination on a single side, I even went LED front and filament back and it worked so it means that the resistors and LED on a single side doesn't draw enough current. Can anyone help me in this situation?
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 27th July 2014, 11:23
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The BAU15S and BA15S are pretty much the same bulb.

The pins are offset on the BAU15S.

You could try grinding away one of the pins and see if it holds in the connector.

IIRC but i am be wrong,
the formula for getting the correct load resistor is the following.

I will use 7.5w LEDs as an example.

21w-7.5w=13.5w
13.5w14.3v=0.95Amps
14.3v0.95Amps=15.1Ω

So if the forumla i remember is correct and my math is correct, you will need a load resistor of 15Ω but you will want a high wattage one.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 27th July 2014, 16:06 Thread Starter
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The BAU15S and BA15S are pretty much the same bulb.

The pins are offset on the BAU15S.

You could try grinding away one of the pins and see if it holds in the connector.
Yep, they indeed do. The rear ones are the CANBUS ones that I originally bought wrong, but they do fit in the resistors BAU15S receptacle with their BA15S base.

Quote:
IIRC but i am be wrong,
the formula for getting the correct load resistor is the following.

I will use 7.5w LEDs as an example.

21w-7.5w=13.5w
13.5w14.3v=0.95Amps
14.3v0.95Amps=15.1Ω

So if the forumla i remember is correct and my math is correct, you will need a load resistor of 15Ω but you will want a high wattage one.
So I'm confused. So is the rear resistor high enough to not trigger the hyper flashing but if I were to add one more in the front (which is what I did) it causes hyperflashing?

Could I get some LEDs that have a higher resistance so that I can still use these load resistors that I already have?

I'm not exactly sure what the exact problem with my setup is at the moment. Thanks for all the help Grayfox.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 27th July 2014, 22:39
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What is the wattage of the LEDs?

Not equivalent normal bulb wattage, but actual power consumption wattage?
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 28th July 2014, 03:59 Thread Starter
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What is the wattage of the LEDs?

Not equivalent normal bulb wattage, but actual power consumption wattage?
I will try to find out. But these are the ones I got in the meantime...

1156 BA15S Canbus 21SMD 5050 LED Turn Reverse Pair Amber | eBay
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 28th July 2014, 14:26
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Could be 3w.

Do you know what the ohm rating for the load resistor is?
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 28th July 2014, 16:14 Thread Starter
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Could be 3w.

Do you know what the ohm rating for the load resistor is?
Not 100% sure, but according to my research, the Chinese made load resistors are 20W 6 Ohms.

So with the information from the load resistor, and information with the current working bulb in the back of the car, could we work out what bulb is needed for the front? Is that how it works? I really do hope I can get this working!

Thank you so much for the help Grayfox!

Last edited by Tea-Aholic; 28th July 2014 at 16:57.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 29th July 2014, 00:11
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6 ohm is rather low, it is more for headlights that have been converted over to HID

The highest i have seen that can fit in the civic is 7w

If my formula is correct, you will need a 15ohm load resistor

This is a 16ohm.
2pcs Green Screw TAB Aluminum Housed Wirewound Power Resistor 50W 16 OHM 5 | eBay
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 29th July 2014, 10:23 Thread Starter
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6 ohm is rather low, it is more for headlights that have been converted over to HID

The highest i have seen that can fit in the civic is 7w

If my formula is correct, you will need a 15ohm load resistor
Thank you for your help!

Just got 2 questions:

1. Why are all the resistors that people suggest is 50W but my resistor is 20W? Does this make a difference or is 20 or 50W fine for a LED bulb?

2. I got my "LED Decoders" because they don't require me to cut though the factory wiring. Could I connect the LED decoders to the circuit, then add a resistor to the LED decoder wiring? If the decoder already has 6 ohms, I just need a 10 ohm one to make it ~16ohms total?

Do I buy 20W 10ohm to match led decoder wattage or is 50W 10ohm one also okay?

Sorry for all the questions.

EDIT: Sorry for one more question. Since I have 2 more LED load resistors, can I daisy chain the two? Would that make it 6+6=12 ohms? If that works, I will just add a 6ohms to each decoder unit.

Quote:
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6 ohm is rather low, it is more for headlights that have been converted over to HID
Interestingly enough, all turn signal resistors are rated 6 Ohms?

Last edited by Tea-Aholic; 29th July 2014 at 10:31.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 29th July 2014, 15:25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tea-Aholic View Post
Thank you for your help!

Just got 2 questions:

1. Why are all the resistors that people suggest is 50W but my resistor is 20W? Does this make a difference or is 20 or 50W fine for a LED bulb?

2. I got my "LED Decoders" because they don't require me to cut though the factory wiring. Could I connect the LED decoders to the circuit, then add a resistor to the LED decoder wiring? If the decoder already has 6 ohms, I just need a 10 ohm one to make it ~16ohms total?

Do I buy 20W 10ohm to match led decoder wattage or is 50W 10ohm one also okay?

Sorry for all the questions.

EDIT: Sorry for one more question. Since I have 2 more LED load resistors, can I daisy chain the two? Would that make it 6+6=12 ohms? If that works, I will just add a 6ohms to each decoder unit.

The wattage the resistors refers to the heat dissipation.

50w can dissipate more heat than a 20w one.

1: It means it will take longer to get hyper hot when used for long time

2: I would have suggested these extension cables then load resistors
Harness 7440 W3X16D ECE X 2 Wires Extension Replacement Purpose Socket Miniature | eBay

3: you can wire up your other resistor in series.



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Interestingly enough, all turn signal resistors are rated 6 Ohms?
What do you mean by this?
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 29th July 2014, 16:32 Thread Starter
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The wattage the resistors refers to the heat dissipation.

50w can dissipate more heat than a 20w one.

1: It means it will take longer to get hyper hot when used for long time
Oh I see thanks. No problem mixing the 20W and 50W resistors then?

Quote:
2: I would have suggested these extension cables then load resistors
Harness 7440 W3X16D ECE X 2 Wires Extension Replacement Purpose Socket Miniature | eBay
Ahh never knew those existed.

Quote:
3: you can wire up your other resistor in series.
Actually if I add the resistor to the LED decoder, I think the resistor will be in parallel to the LED decoder.

Quote:
What do you mean by this?
All YouTube videos and websites I've looked at, they all use 50W 6ohms resistors to cancel the hyperflashing. My LED decoder already uses a 6ohms resistor inside, not sure why it doesn't work. Does it hyper flash with just 1 ohms off? So if the car detects 1 or 2 ohms less than it usually does, does it hyper flash?
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 16th August 2014, 17:56
 
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No need to remove fender linings to replace indicator bulbs...
I just removed the black plastic pieces, that covers the fender bolts.
And with a finger and a small screwdriver i managed to turn the socket and get it out of the headlamp housing.

-Cheers!
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 17th August 2014, 09:01
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Originally Posted by Nickle View Post
No need to remove fender linings to replace indicator bulbs...
I just removed the black plastic pieces, that covers the fender bolts.
And with a finger and a small screwdriver i managed to turn the socket and get it out of the headlamp housing.

-Cheers!


How did you change the bulb with the 10mm hole for the clips & put the socket back into the housing
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