Possible sticking calliper??? Hacking me off - Civinfo
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 11:34 Thread Starter
 
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Possible sticking calliper??? Hacking me off

Had an ongoing issue with my FN2 for a long time now.
Using loads of petrol. Major loss of acceleration. VTEC still kicks in. No major heat differences on any wheel after driving. Doesn't pull to one side when driving. The brake pedal does feel different from time to time though. It'll be nice and soft then sometimes stiff. If I stop on a hill and hold brakes on instead of using handbrake you can hear a loud creaking noise as soon as I start to let off the brakes.
It's just had new clutch. It is due a service inc. new spark plugs. Also just had new fuel filter in.
When I bought the car it had a custom intake on it...my mechanic says that's causing the issue. It looks as though it's seen better days & you do get a bit of a rough smell sometimes when putting foot down not long after starting. I drove from Newcastle to Bristol and back in Feb and it was spot on.
Sometimes when changing gear you feel the car jolting aswell. Haven't got any lights on the dash.


Thought it was sticking calliper at the front. Used a refurb kit on it. Then had all 4 discs & pads replaced. My mechanic assures me it isn't the brakes sticking as it would of showed up on MOT. (But surely when MOT was done the brakes were probably cold and wouldn't produce same conditions as when you are driving???)

HELP/ADVICE much needed. I just need someone to tell me what is definitely wrong with it. It seems like an awkward one and garages don't seem that keen on getting to the bottom of it. I'm even thinking about taking it to Honda. Sick of it now I just want it sorted.....

Any ideas?
Cheers


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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 11:56
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Sounds like a faulty oxygen sensor to me, car is over fuelling causing the excess consumption, furthermore if the fuel/air mix is incorrect, it will run crap which would explain the poor acceleration/jerking... If your wheels arent heating up then i doubt the brakes have ever been the issue... all breaks groan if you try, its just the friction surface of the pad against the disc, before they are fully released or engaged. I think ive also read on here that the oxygen sensor dosent always throw up the engine light, but still may store a code, codes can be read using a Maxiscan ms309 off ebay for a tenner. Much better than a garage charging you 50 to read a code.
Hope you get sorted
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 11:58 Thread Starter
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Thanks mate! I'll check it out! I'll post how it goes


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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 12:05 Thread Starter
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My mates got a diagnostic reader off eBay but he's got an Audi. He's asked me if I wanted to use it before.....reckon that'll work?
Might sound like a daft question....but if it works and it does give a code....What do I do from there?


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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 12:50
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If it smells bad on acceleration then it must be either the fuel mixture, old oil or the engine needs a cleanup.

Does the type R have an EGR valve? If so it could need cleaning too.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 12:52 Thread Starter
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It's only when it's cold. To be honest I shouldn't have mentioned that it's not a problem. As soon as I get the service done with new air filter I'm sure that will go. It only happens when cold sometimes. Not all the time


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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 13:17
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How many miles has your car done?
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 14:03
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You can try your mates code reader, but civics seem to be quite picky about which cheapo reader they connect to, I have two different scanners, one of them when connected to the civic says link error connection failed, but the one I mentioned links straight up. There may not even be a code stored when you look, but all the symptoms you mention add up to the oxygen sensor from what i can see. Im not sure exactly how to test that specific sensor to confirm it is knackered, but the part to buy new in the Uk is quite expensive, Tegiwa stock them at 255 or 2nd hand on ebay around 50-70 quid. The oxygen sensor failure is mega common hence why Tegiwa even stock them. Just trawled the forum and found a US website called rockauto.com they sell part number 2349076 this is the correct OEM sensor you need and its only 50 odd plus postage
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 14:10
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Oh and if you do get a code, for example P0141.. either google it or the code reader should come with a book translating codes into what the problem is, all codes are the same accross most cars. So say you have googled 'ecu code P0141' it will tell you fault with oxygen sensor or words to that effect.. now you know to replace that affected part. Once replaced clear the code using the code reader, go for a good drive, 40 mins or so, then scan for codes again to confirm youve sorted the problem.
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 15:10 Thread Starter
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It's done just under 70K. My mechanics reckons he's scanned it and nothing came up.......


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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 17:05
 
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Eco display
Its cold that may explain your crap mpg. If it only happens when cold it wont be an O2 sensor (they're expensive things) but could be a dirty MAF or throttle valve, try cleaning them
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 18:20
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How do you clean the MAF, I'd be interested to know as my mpg has dropped and the car doesn't feel lively.
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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 18:36 Thread Starter
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I'm meant the smell only happens sometimes when cars first started up....say if I'm coming home from work and need to get round some **** doing 40 in the right hand lane to beat traffic. If I put my foot down then sometimes it smells. I'm not worried about that.

The original issues I posted first happen all the time. It's constant. Feels like the cars lost its bite. It still shifts but takes a lot longer to get there.


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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 18:39 Thread Starter
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I've googled oxygen sensor symptoms and mines got all of them apart from a warning light, it does seem to kick out a fair bit of smoke but nothing majorly worrying. Sometimes aswell on cold startup when idling you can hear a low toned "burring" noise....sounds like it's from exhaust area but I thought nothing of it until now.
To be fair I wish it had a bloody warning light on....,then I could pinpoint the issue. Would preferably know for a fact it's the o2 sensor before forking out the dosh


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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 18:51
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You still got that induction kit on? Have you had a look at the filter?
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 18:55 Thread Starter
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Yeah the kit is still on! My mechanic said that is likely to be the issue. The filter will need changing but the way the kit is I'm probably going to have to get a new kit altogether. A HKS RSK is first on the list in the new year anyway.
I've been trying to get a hold of an OEM intake to test it out to see if that's the issue. Still no luck. I'm away on holiday for New Years so waiting until after that to get new intake




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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 19:04
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Where is the maf housed in this kit?
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 19:10 Thread Starter
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On top....if that makes sense.. Where it normally is. I'll try and get a picture of it tomorrow


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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 19:17
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Does it have fins before the maf sensor like the oem? If not that may cause problems. Is it a cone filter?
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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 21st November 2015, 19:19 Thread Starter
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Not sure about the fins. It is a cone filter. It was fine for ages when I bought the car. Filter is due a change though. Was going to get RSK anyway


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